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View Full Version : Using Ajd. Headlight switch as fog/LB 3 way switch



dwarfmarine
1st December 2014, 08:03 PM
Just thinking out loud here guys,
wondering if any of the electrical gurus could chip in.

D2, non adaptive headlights- so ive got the blanking panel.
Ive just bought myself 3 'Rear' foglight switches (go go in positions 2, 3 and 4 down the binnacle and moved the actual rear foglight to the bottom RHS
I know the actual switches wont work as they are momentary controlled by the BCU- i only wanted the face plate from them (I have a couple of spare Puma heated seat and Freelander Cruise switches).

Now, currently my lightbar is hooked to a cruise control switch in position 1 on the LHS of the binnacle.
Currently its wired illegally as its direct on/off and not into the headlights.
(future spotlights will be wired into position 2,3 etc)

Is there any way that I could get the switch for the self levelling headlights and use the 3 positions available there make them them legal?
IE position 0- Headlights must be on for binnacle switches to work
Position 2- Lightbar (and future foglights) can be used without the headlights being on- kind of like a 2 way switch.
Position 3- ???

Any ideas/comments?

Cheers, Cameron

simonmelb
1st December 2014, 10:02 PM
Yes that sounds doable with a couple of relays.

Have a look here for some ideas:
Relay Diagrams - Quick Reference (http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagrams.asp)

Jazzman
3rd December 2014, 09:25 PM
Are you trying to do this because you don't have enough switch locations?

You could simply have them wired to 2 switches. Switch 1 gets power from Head lights. Switch 2 from accessories.

You mentioned you would like them legal, however even with a 3 way switch if you can turn them on without the headlights on it is not legal anyway? Also can't light bars only be used with high beam like spot lights?

I can understand what you are trying to achieve with the 3 way switch, but i can't understand how it will make them legal? The 3 way switch probably has only one common anyway, so the source will still be the same.

I'm not trying to shoot you down. But i'm not sure it will be legal.

dwarfmarine
4th December 2014, 12:11 AM
Not so muh trying to make them completely legal,
Just 'more legal'
More a just in case scenario- pulled over by a cop, flick the switch so that the Aux lights will only work with the high beam on. No problems here officer.

There are scenarios that I only need the lightbar on at times (we often arrive late to campsites and Lightbar alone is perfect for light while setting up)
Or, I plan to run yellow beam spotlights, and my headlights are the 'blue' kind so in the rain/fog they are a pain, so on deserted roads I wouldn't mind flicking back to parkers and just running the Yellow fog/spots

Plenty of switch locations left, I've still got the whole left hand side of the binnacle (3 slots) left
Top left is now Lightbar (on a rear fog switch) and rear fogs have been moved to below the cruise on the right- I barely use them as is)
I'll probably also hook my rear lightbar up to a switch aswell (currently tapped into reverse, but wouldn't mind that with alternate switchable power source)
So I'll have Lightbar, spot lights, possibly roof/cage lightbar and rear lightbar all down the left of the binnacle.
Obviously only the forward facing Aux lights is want tapped into the 3-way
I know it's possible- with an aftermarket switch- a friend has his lights hooked up 2-ways like what I'm after, but I'm trying to gauge (and work out the wiring) if the factory headlight adjust switch could work.

I haven't got a 3-way as yet so wasn't sure if it was even feasible before hunting for one.

PaulMc0308
4th December 2014, 11:43 AM
A Discovery 2 or Defender headlamp levelling switch is no good for this - as it contains a series of resistors -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/813.jpg


My suggestion would be to use a Rover 100 (Metro) Heater Fan Switch YUK10003

This is a straight-forward - Off/3-Postion Rotary Switch, which is dimensionally identical to the Discovery 2 and Defender Headlight Adjuster Switch.


You can get one NEW on eBay UK (without Knob or Locknut) -

METRO HEATER FAN SWITCH, BRAND NEW (EEP0106) | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/METRO-HEATER-FAN-SWITCH-BRAND-NEW-EEP0106-/290534471630)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/814.jpg . https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/815.jpg



The Knob and Locknut from a Headlamp Levelling Switch (which comes complete with them) will also fit the Metro Blower Switch, but the Blower Switch Knob has just a white line on it instead of a Lamp symbol -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/593.jpg



Alternatively, both the Knob and the Locknut have Rover Cars and Land Rover Part No's

Knob - Metro Heater/Blower - YUM10001

Knob - Discovery 1 Rear Aircon & Defender 50th Heater Fan/Aircon - YUM10001L


Locknut - Metro Heater - YUN10001

Locknut - Discovery 1, Rear Aircon - YUN10001L


Some of these parts are no longer available new :(



Here's how the Blower Switch is wired -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/816.jpg



Paul.

1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/756.jpg

.

dwarfmarine
4th December 2014, 12:39 PM
Cheers Paul, that's exactly the kinda of info I was chasing!

Might have to trace a set of that down somewhere.
Not sure how it'll fit in the position on the Disco, but I'm sure I can figure something out.
Even if it means I have to hide the switch mechanism somewhere- I'm trying to avoid cutting/drilling into dash pieces that can't be easily replaced (blanking panels)

Tombie
4th December 2014, 12:59 PM
You are currently running relays with the factory switches I hope.. ;)

If thats the case, just take the feed from the high beam wire to the switch and its all legal

dwarfmarine
4th December 2014, 01:24 PM
Yeah Tombie,
Currently only have the Lightbar, but yes- the loom does have an integrated relay.
However, the purpose of this post is to get an idea of how to have the lightbar switched 'two ways'- one being on anytime; through the factory switch, the other, switchable via the factory switch but on the condition that the highbeams are on.

Currently the relay simply takes feed from 12v, I'd like to have it switchable between 12v and the high beam signal
And to determine if the factory 3way headlight switch can do this- which Paul advised it won't

Tombie
4th December 2014, 01:47 PM
Right...

Can I ask why both options? Its more convenient to have them shut down with high beam anyway...

dwarfmarine
4th December 2014, 04:06 PM
There are times where I'd prefer to not have my high beams on to have the auxiliary lights on

My headlights are the Narva Blue90- great low beam, but the blue tinge to the high beam makes them **** in rain,
Plus my spotlights, I plan on using halogens with the yellow fog filters, which would perform better in rain/fog than high beam would
Or night-run 4wding, Lightbar only would be preferential to high beam

That's why I want to run them through a switch, so when I'm driving on the street a quick flick of the high beam turns them all off again, but I have the option of running them independently

PaulMc0308
5th December 2014, 12:47 AM
Cheers Paul, that's exactly the kinda of info I was chasing!

Might have to trace a set of that down somewhere.
Not sure how it'll fit in the position on the Disco, but I'm sure I can figure something out.
Even if it means I have to hide the switch mechanism somewhere- I'm trying to avoid cutting/drilling into dash pieces that can't be easily replaced (blanking panels)


The 3-way switch (#3) would fit into the R/H lower facia panel (#1), next to the door mirror adjustment control (#2) -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/804.jpg


As your D2 doesn't have headlamp levelling, you will have the blanking piece (#4) in place of the control switch.

This blanking piece unclips - the switch clips-in in its place, and is retained by the spindle locknut.

As you can see from the previous pictures of the Rover blower switch, the switch's terminals are 6.3mm male blades, which can connected to, using individual 6.3mm female terminals - or, the proper 6-way latching connector, which can be found on Rovers and Land Rovers - or new from me ;)


Paul.

1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/756.jpg

.

dwarfmarine
5th December 2014, 08:49 AM
Awesome! thanks for that Paul, great help!

dwarfmarine
5th December 2014, 09:47 AM
Just ordered a complete blower fan switch through Britcar-

YUK10003 | HEATER FAN SWITCH METRO ROVER | Genuine Old Stock | | Britcar (UK) Ltd (http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/197279/5497/heater_fan_switch_metro_rover)

Certainly not the cheapest option, coming in at $37 AUD shipped, but its a complete unit with locknut and knob going by the picture.


Now to work out the actual wiring to go behind it!

ill really only need 2 of the positions (out of a possible 4)
Ill probably leave position 0 (nothing) as the lights behind hard-wired, switchable any time
Then make one of the other positions linked into the headlights/highbeam signal.


(Im also guessing that this switch block in not illuminated going by the wiring diagram?)

dwarfmarine
5th December 2014, 09:20 PM
I Think this is how i should be wiring it?
(i dont yet have the 3 way switch and am yet to work out the pin configuration when it gets to that part)

someone please correct me if i'm wrong

PaulMc0308
10th December 2014, 12:27 AM
J(Im also guessing that this switch block in not illuminated going by the wiring diagram?)


Yes, it is illuminated - the Fan symbol, and the positions I, II, and III illuminate in Orange.

This is done by a bulb wearing an Orange 'condom', which is soldered to the switch's circuit board.

This 'condom' can be changed for one of whatever colour you want, see here - Accessories items in caps store on eBay! (http://stores.ebay.co.uk/dreamlixy2009/Light-Emitting-Diode-LEDs-/_i.html?_nkw=caps&_fsub=3506270017&_sid=940834767&_trksid=p4634.c0.m409)


Rover and Land Rover don't show switch illumination on the same page of the wiring diagram as the wiring for the switch's function.

"Interior Illumination" is shown on separate page, and shows the illumination wiring for all of the switches, dash, clocks, controls, etc...

For this blower switch -

Illumination live is on Pin-4

Earth is on Pin-3


The pins are numbered, like this -

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/638.jpg

The drawing is of the rear of the connector (the side that the cable enters from)


In the Rover 100, this switch earths-down the tap-offs from the blower motor's resistor, via Pin-3 to earth (see diagram in my earlier post)

Because the switch switches to earth, and the bulb shares this earth, it makes it difficult (but not impossible) to use this switch as a live-switching rotary switch and retain the illumination.

If you look at the back of the switch, you'll see that pins 1 and 3 are connected together by a busbar.

If you cut this busbar (using something like a Dremel), separating pins 1 and 3 - then, the switch's bulb will be across pins 1 and 4, and separated from the switching function.


This will allow you to use the switch as live-switching rotary switch with illumination, either as -

Pin 3 input - with selectable outputs on pins 6 (position I), 2 (position II), and 5 (position III)

or -

Selectable inputs on - pins 6 (position I), 2 (position II), and 5 (position III) - with a common output on pin 3


If you're not bothered about having the switch illuminated - then, you can use the switch connections as above - but, don't connect an illumination live to pin 4, and no need to cut the busbar between pins 1 and 3


Paul.

1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/756.jpg

.

dwarfmarine
10th December 2014, 02:55 PM
Thanks a bunch Paul! Super helpful

I'll report back once I've received the switch from Britparts and start playing around!

I'll illumination doesn't bother me, but it would be nice

dwarfmarine
23rd December 2014, 06:26 PM
Paul, switch arrived today from Britpart, complete with locknut and knob.

Worked perfectly the way I was aiming for!
Thanks heaps, absolute legend!

PaulMc0308
23rd December 2014, 10:10 PM
Paul, switch arrived today from Britpart, complete with locknut and knob.

Worked perfectly the way I was aiming for!
Thanks heaps, absolute legend!


That's good to hear, thanks for letting me know https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/224.jpg


Paul.

1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/756.jpg

.

GBE
24th May 2015, 12:34 PM
Currently thinking of doing the same thing in my Disco so I can swap from Lightforce driving lights that come on with high beam to yellow filtered fog lights than can be lit with just sidelights...

The cosmetic question; how do you do away with the fan symbol on the van switch?

GBE
11th July 2015, 12:52 PM
Dwarfmarine, any update?

I presume you used pin 3 as the output back to the lights relay, pin 6 for input from the highbeam circuit (on position 1) and pin 2 for independent lighting (position 2)? Where did you grab input for pin 2?

Looking under my dash I was thinking of grabbing it from the mirror switch or cigarette lighter and wondering if there are pitfalls with either (other than tracing the wires from the cigarette lighter)

Is there a way of only lighting up the switch only when turned on to position 1, 2 or 3 rather than with general dash illumination?