TD5 Clutch kit - the works

[pushkin]

Hi guys

Am buying a clutch kit from Rakeway for my 1999 TD5 but wanted to know what extra things I should get to have replaced during the big job.

I've heard it's a good idea to replace the master and slave cylinders, the bearing carrier, engine rear main seal and spigot bush.

What else should be changed at the same time ?

Thanks

[Mellow Yellow]

An LR specialist did the clutch in Peril at 190,000Km and the Dual Mass Flywheel was definitely on the way out. I suggest you consider replacing yours.

Incidently, I'm about to do my clutch again after only 70,000Km as it's starting to slip (Grrr!) and I suspect it's due to the LR specialist that did the clutch for me using an aftermarket clutch kit.

I now use a local 4WD guy who's not a LR specialist but long in the tooth with 4WD's. I've found him to be excellent and he says he uses a clutch specialist in Sydney for all his clutch bits etc and he swears by him. He says in all his years of servicing 4WD clutches he's never had a complaint.

Apparently this clutch specialist gets all his gear out of Japan.

So I'm going to go with the Sydney clutch specialist. If you're interested, I'll get his details.

[CraigE]

If there is nothing wrong with your master and slave cylinders, why? They can be replaced easily later.
You will need the flywheel as well if it is a TD5 as they are supposed to be changed together. A spigot bush is a good idea.
Rear main well if you want and consider usefull.
The carrier bearings maybe. If you do carrier bearings consider a new oil pump as well, and seal the box with decent sealant, just be careful lining back up as easy not to slot the layshaft into the pump.

[BilboBoggles]

There is one big and expensive issue with not replacing the slave cylinder. If it does leak and if you are doing your clutch it's probably old enough to want to leak - it will put fluid onto your brand new clutch plate and **** it up. For the sake of an extra few dollars, it's better to replace it at the same time as the clutch. I know this because mine did this 10,000 after I spent a fortune on doing the clutch. The clutch was soaked with fluid and was nearly ruined. With some careful flushing with brake cleaner it's driveable - but it still is not perfect with some slippage still.

So please do not take the risk of not changing your slave cylinder - cheap insurance if you are going to spend the money on a clutch.

(I'm going to see how long this clutch plate lasts - buggered if I'm spending another fortune on the clutch - it's getting converted to an auto when it finally dies again.)

Oh and one thing you've probably not thought of. Replace the fuel pressure regulator, for the same reasons above, if that bastard leaks it will stuff up your brand new clutch plate... And anything else that is leaking oil at the back of the engine will get on your nice shiny clutch plate... Right before the clutch fluid incident, my brand new clutch started juddering, whilst it was not a FPR leak it was some oil leak down the back. Luckily that burnt off after a few thousand k's after being fixed.... Until the slave cylinder leaked.

Damn thing is cursed...

[GoldCloverLeaf]

I agree... replace that dual mass flywheel, they are not cheap but a lot cheaper than having to do the job all over again, taking the box out was not fun!

A spigot bush for sure, it's so cheap and easy to replace... it's not something that fails but it can develop a very annoying noise when it dries out eventually. A new rear main seal is also cheap insurance and of course new gearbox and engine mounts wouldn't hurt.