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View Full Version : long range fuel tanks, good idea?



bob10
6th December 2014, 11:23 PM
Considering putting a long range tank in the D2. Any one done it, any problems with it, good idea, or not? Bob

Eevo
7th December 2014, 05:05 AM
ive done it. using long range automotive
replaced my 90l main with a 150l
and added two side tanks of 51l (you can have one fuel tank either side as long as the vehicle doesn't have factory air suspension or ACE)

total 252l
total cost was 4.1k
it was installed by my local TJM

issues:
on my first major trip away the main tank developed 2 hairline fractures at about 7,000km. TJM fixed the tank no questions asked. was happy with their service

ive also had issues with the side tanks. kinks and/air bubbles in the lines. unable to transfer fuel to my main tank. TJM fixed it numerous times but we're unable to come up with a permanent fix.
i ended up fixing it myself using different lines and connectors.


the great thing about the size of the main tank is that each dash on the fuel gauge represents about 100km with the v8 engine. (about 18l/100km)


would i get them again?
i think so. expensive but necessary for areas of travel. i still carry 5 jerry cans but i can drive to pt hedland to alice springs without filling up ( i really hate stopping :p )

Eevo
7th December 2014, 05:08 AM
i also had to get the aftermarket side steps/rock sliders altered as they use common mounting points. cost was about $300 at a metal fabricator.

Blknight.aus
7th December 2014, 06:26 AM
The tanks smdesign for the side slung tanks has known house routing issues that causes the stock fuel line to kink and collapse. the routing also creates p traps that prevent the tank from venting correctly if you have the setup that fills from the commonnfiller.

The solution is to use a more rigid nylon line and a modified routing of the breather lines.

Its been an intermittant issue since the D1 setup.

trog
7th December 2014, 06:58 AM
No issues at all with the Brown Davis 140 litre tank. For a one off situation it is easy enough to get four 20 litre jerry cans across the rear foot well. This is how i set up for fuel on the Canning several years back. I still have the false floor I used for this if you want to look at

kelvo
7th December 2014, 10:50 AM
The thing I don't like about a big rear tank is the extra weight behind the rear axle. The max rear axle weight isn't very high.

I'd be looking at twin sill tanks, extra weight between the axles, low down, plus you now have 3 seperate storage containers.

Roberto
7th December 2014, 03:44 PM
Bob

I put in a Brown Davis tank when I thought my original plastic tank had a leak. It didn't, but I'm quite pleased with the extra range none the less.

The BD is well made, although I think volume is down to about 120L after multiple rock impacts.

I still carry jerries on major trips.

With the gas injection system of 20 L propane I get quite a useful range from the car, although not enough to get from Port Hedland to Alice. Luckily there is fuel at Kunawarritji, Kiwirrkurra, and Kintore.

Bob

Eevo
7th December 2014, 04:01 PM
Luckily there is fuel at Kunawarritji, Kiwirrkurra, and Kintore.

Bob

for $3.15 per litre :eek:

Resection
7th December 2014, 04:41 PM
I use a Long Ranger tank, 135 litre, no issues and seems strongly built, surviving several hard scrapes. At least 125 litre useable. Easy to fit, changing the pump is easier than with standard plastic unit due to locking ring design. As mentioned they do add to rear axle load when full.

Im in SA, so no roadworthy checks. How do others in states with vehicle inspection laws fare? I have heard NSW for example requires an engineer's certificate for aftermarket high capacity tanks.

ramblingboy42
8th December 2014, 09:01 PM
I'm a little puzzled as to why you would fit a 135ltr tank but only able to use 125.

Do these long range tanks bolt straight up where the standard 90ltr sits.?

What happens with fuel pump and level float?

I have never had an issue with endurance but if I had a 140-150ltrs I would never carry a jerry again.

There is no where in Australia where you need 1500km range anymore.....ie unless you refuse to refuel at local prices.

p38arover
8th December 2014, 09:09 PM
I very nearly didn't read this thread because I assumed it was another of Bob10's cut'n'pastes from the 'net!

I like sill tanks because of the central weight placement. I had them on my RRC and on my County and used a transfer pump to move fuel to the main tank.

ballbag
8th December 2014, 09:48 PM
Hope I don't derail this topic too badly....

I've got 80L LPG scuba tanks in place of original fuel tank and a 45L petrol tank under driver's rear quarter.

Looking at fitting 2 sill tanks for petrol and retaining current setup.

Problem is having to pump from sills to rear quarter at short intervals.

Alternatives might be to run from one of the sills, or to continuously pump and recirculate from sills to rear quarter tank.

Anyone dealt successfully with a similar setup?

Resection
8th December 2014, 10:36 PM
Hi.
125l? Tank now a bit dented, plus I'm not sure I want to draw down on the murky last few litres. I suspect the fuel gets pretty hot when very low too. Maybe I'm just over-cautious.
Long Ranger tank directly replaces standard plastic unit. I needed to drill chassis rail and install two extra bolts and tab nuts, supplied in kit which also has instructions, vent lines and other necessary hardware. Fitting kit was available through ARB. My tank was bought second-hand with no hardware.
This tank also has a drain bung, the original didn't.
Pump is direct swap, retained by ring-plate and multiple screws. Its much easier to fit compared with that fiddly plastic nut on factory tank.
Float arm can easily be extended to reach higher tank roof (braze/silver solder) before fitment to recalibrate full level.
I have had it for a few years now, no fitting dramas spring to mind. Very pleased with it. I renewed the pump, seal and the 4 lines as a precaution at the same time.
I certainly agree with Ramblingboy's comment re pricey fuel in remote places, probably helps in avoiding contaminated diesel in some areas too.
Jason.

bob10
8th December 2014, 10:54 PM
I very nearly didn't read this thread because I assumed it was another of Bob10's cut'n'pastes from the 'net!

I like sill tanks because of the central weight placement. I had them on my RRC and on my County and used a transfer pump to move fuel to the main tank.


You know you miss out on so much , old fellow , by not reading my posts. You obviously have not read my posts in the technical section, in the past. But, hey, live in your world, I'll live in mine. We'll both be happy. EDIT get off my back.

djam1
8th December 2014, 11:23 PM
Considering putting a long range tank in the D2. Any one done it, any problems with it, good idea, or not? Bob

Its a good idea if you need it but unnecessary if you don't
Beats carrying Jerry cans if you need additional fuel.

p38arover
9th December 2014, 12:32 AM
You know you miss out on so much , old fellow , by not reading my posts. You obviously have not read my posts in the technical section, in the past. But, hey, live in your world, I'll live in mine. We'll both be happy. EDIT get off my back.

You're right, Bob, I don't read many of your posts nor Disco Man's as you both mainly post stuff copied off the 'net.

vince_sally
13th December 2014, 07:56 PM
The thing I don't like about a big rear tank is the extra weight behind the rear axle. The max rear axle weight isn't very high.

I'd be looking at twin sill tanks, extra weight between the axles, low down, plus you now have 3 seperate storage containers.


Hey, I just purchased twin sill tanks, used, how are these fitted, do you have ideas please?

Blknight.aus
13th December 2014, 11:43 PM
how you fit them is easy, drill up the mounting points and bolt them in.

but how you fill them and draw from them, well now you have some options to consider.

The setup in my D1 runs a an internal pipe in the filler to an inch Y juntion in the connection to tank piece that then heads to a T juntion down to each tank.

the tank breathers are fitted as a set of 4 3/8 T's into the main tank breather line joiner

fuel is delivered from the sill tanks by one pump each into a pair of 3/8 fittings braised into the top of the main fill joiner pipe above the Y joint so that normal filling does not result in attempting to refil the AUX sill tanks But in the event that the main tank over fills during normal transfer the excess fuel will return into the sill tanks.

even if you dont try to fill from the main filler you must cross link the tanks with a breather so the air from the main tank has somewhere to go and in the event that you overfill the tank you dont wind up trying to blow the seals apart, crack the tank or rupture the internals of the filler cap.

bob10
14th December 2014, 10:38 PM
You're right, Bob, I don't read many of your posts nor Disco Man's as you both mainly post stuff copied off the 'net.


Why did you feel the need to follow me to the D2 section to make that point? What makes you think I care? Mate, this is getting weird, almost like stalking. Please stop.

ozscott
14th July 2016, 10:07 AM
Just re-engergising an old thread. I have made enquiries with Longranger and Brown and Davis. Brown and Davis 142 main tank hangs down 50mm lower than stock. Longranger looks like it hangs down even more! Surely this is an issue with rough offroading. Has anyone fitted one and then fitted a bash plate to mitigate the drama?

Cheers

DiscoKym
14th July 2016, 11:54 AM
No issues at all with the Brown Davis 140 litre tank. For a one off situation it is easy enough to get four 20 litre jerry cans across the rear foot well. This is how i set up for fuel on the Canning several years back. I still have the false floor I used for this if you want to look at

Hi Trog,

I have been thinking about jerry cans across the back floor. No one has asked but can I/we see pictures of your false floor???? :)

DeanoH
14th July 2016, 12:12 PM
As a general rule I reckon aftermarket replacement fuel tanks are a waste of money, make the fuel system more prone to damage and have potential to ruin that 'perfect holiday'.

Over many years of outback and remote travel I've come across probably a dozen or so travelers/vehicles with fuel tank problems. With one exception, who'd managed to stake his tank with a star picket, ALL were non 'factory' tanks. Off these a couple were inappropriate or poorly fitted tanks but the majority were tanks made by the two main suppliers mentioned in this thread.

The common failure being split tanks or failed tank mounts, both IMO being caused by an excessive mass of fuel being thrown around in the tank(s) under off road/outback conditions.

Many travelers will do maybe one or two trips over the life of a vehicle where it is necessary to carry extra fuel. When the cost of buying and fitting additional fuel tank capacity can be several thousand dollars this doesn't strike me as a wise investment. Several 10 litre plastic jerry cans secured either inside the vehicle or on a roof rack, again IMO, gives a much better and cost effective solution. By carrying fuel in separate containers a potential leaking/empty tank can be repaired using epoxy putty (don't leave home without it) without total fuel loss and possible stranding.

As a previous poster noted there's very few places in Australia where a fuel range of over 1500 Km is necessary. Certainly not on the Gibb River Road or up to Kalumburu (less than 500 Km) nor on the Canning Stock Route (approx 1200 Km? Wiluna to Kunawaraji) or the Simpson Desert crossing (less than 700 Km Birdsville to Mt Dare) or the Anne Beadell Hwy (Coober Pedy or Laverton to Ilkurka store) or anywhere along the Great Central Road.

Though where possible, especially in the outback, it's a good idea to carry enough fuel to get to the next fuel point after the one you're aiming for, especially if there's only one fuel vendor. There are many reasons for fuel to be unavailable, a few we've struck are fuel trucks bogged/broken down, no power (to pump), pump(s) failure, forgotten/too lazy to order fuel so have run out, no phones so no eftpos so cash only, can't find key to pump(s) and several other variations. Though probably the best was a 'community store' vendor who refused to sell fuel to anyone until the 'local' miscreants who had stolen fuel and vandalised equipment 'fessed up. :mad:

So IMO save your money to spend on holiday and carry a few jerry cans.

Deano :)

PhilipA
14th July 2016, 06:23 PM
I am a fan of long range tanks particularly in V8. I have had 3 Long Rangers now and never had a problem and boy have they seen some action.

The range of a V8 towing is pretty poor and even with 2 jerries it is only about 600km safe. I bought my first tank when I thought it was a good idea a week before a trip to clean the rust off the seam of my 77 RRC. Bad idea and the only tank I could get quickly was a long ranger. But that sold me on the idea.

I would venture to say that a reason Prados are so popular is their fuel capacity.
I think it is a major failing and arrogance of LR that they don't offer one,although they now do in the new RR.

With a td5'this changes but I was lucky to get a 155litre set for a very good price second hand and with 2 jerries if I ever use them I will have over 1500km.

The everyday extra cost is minimal as you don't have to fill it , so you are only carrying maybe 30kg extra. How much does a bullbar weigh, or arear step?

It gives you options. For example when crossing the Nullabor without the tank I debated whether to go south to the east of Esperence but didn't as I wasn't sure I would have enough without refilling at a hideously expensive roadhouse.
Regards Philip A

If you run in to bad weather a long way from your start point but near to where you want fuel again you have the option of returning.

Slunnie
14th July 2016, 08:25 PM
With a td5'this changes but I was lucky to get a 155litre set for a very good price second hand and with 2 jerries if I ever use them I will have over 1500km.

I've got a TD5 and 150 litre tank. It's the best thing ever and I would do it again. Just the convenience of not having to stop at the servo so regularly makes it worthwhile - the time and bother it saves. Not only does it reduce the need to carry jerry cans in the cabin when touring, it also makes life easy when driving long distances, especially at night when fuel isn't always available.

The other thing is that with some trips, I have had the long range tank and also Jerry cans. There is a limit to what will fit in the vehicle but this makes it so much better - there isn't always space for Jerry cans. It also means that we can all pack into the Disco and visit places (eg Fraser Island) and not get ravaged by fuel prices.

Anyway, I'm a big fan of them. I've also got a new 50 litre sill tank which I've been threatening to install for the last 10 years.

Jason789
14th July 2016, 08:54 PM
A long range tank would be nice, but 4 jerries is a hell of a lot cheaper.

Putting 4 jerries in an empty tank also gives you a nice break on a long trip as well as a little bending and stretching after a long stint behind the wheel. It does me just fine anyway.

In a TD5 towing a loaded 8x5 cage trailer, a full tank + 4 jerries gives me a range of about 1200 km. If it was just the vehicle with no trailer, it would be out to 1850 km plus.

Cheers,

Jason

ozscott
14th July 2016, 09:40 PM
Where do you put the Jerry cans mate.?

Bytemrk
14th July 2016, 09:51 PM
I always pondered on in my D2's...but never pulled the trigger, making do with Jerry cans carried, normally on the camper trailer.

However, now I have one in the D4....i am converted. As Slunnie said the extra convenience and range is fantastic.

Tins
14th July 2016, 11:20 PM
A long range tank would be nice, but 4 jerries is a hell of a lot cheaper.

Putting 4 jerries in an empty tank also gives you a nice break on a long trip as well as a little bending and stretching after a long stint behind the wheel. It does me just fine anyway.

In a TD5 towing a loaded 8x5 cage trailer, a full tank + 4 jerries gives me a range of about 1200 km. If it was just the vehicle with no trailer, it would be out to 1850 km plus.

Cheers,

Jason

Kinda depends on what you are doing, and where you are going. If you are just going from one place to another then jerries are fine, If you want to drive around without encountering civilisation for awhile then a tank is good as well. I think the thing to remember is that it's not an either/or situation. No reason why you can't do both.
Haven't been out in the desert for a hell of a long time, but if it was me, I'd fit the tank and keep the jerries for water.

ozscott
15th July 2016, 07:28 AM
Diesel and Petrol is not a good thing to go inside the vehicle. It stinks. It's a very potential danger in an accident. It can vent harmful fumes if not totally sealed. It is illegal to carry on the rear. Trailers either can not go or are not allowed to go everywhere off road. So that leaves the roof where as we know off road LR Max roof weight including rack is 30kg and 50kg on road... So it's clear why long range tanks under the vehicle are a good idea to extend range.

Cheers

Narangga
15th July 2016, 07:51 AM
Always needed an extra 20 litres to be sure of making Nhulunbuy to Katherine in one go so like the Defender the D2 got a replacement tank.

Bought the 130L Long Ranger and fitted it at home (ably assisted by Derek ;)). The only real issue was the fillers did not line up perfectly but other than that it was definitely worth the time, effort and $.

Being able to relax and decide when to get fuel rather than have to worry about where to store Jerry cans and make unplanned/unwanted stops or detours was great. Certainly an easier decision to make with the D2 having only to replace the tank - with the spare wheel already out of the way - unlike the D3. :(

strangy
15th July 2016, 09:11 AM
If you're using the vehicle regularly for long or remote travel it's a good accessory to have.
I have a 130 litre main and 70 aux. Its there for avoiding mandatory fuel stops with dubious prices and fuel quality under normal circumstances and ensuring I can make legs where fuel availability is uncertain or non existent.
Like Narrangga, I also always had to carry an extra Jerry to make Katherine from Nhulunbuy and a number of other legs.
I was over carting extra jerries years ago and wouldnt hesitate to go a larger tank if affordable.
Jerries take up space inside, are easy to pinch outside and "throwing them on the roof" requires a rack, full or empty.
Fine if you have one. If they are full it puts weight up high and you have to climb up on a dusty/muddy car to get them. Its no fun when the car is slippery in the rain and cold. If your vehicle isnt muddy or dusty then you probably dont need either.;)
Most long range tanks are much tougher than the original and if your going to damage a long range tank to the point of being unusable you will have destroyed the factory unit also.

My two cents. There are "fors and against"
If you have lots of spare room and remote travel infrequently - go Jerries
If traveling remote regularly, regardless of space, I'd have the bigger tank.
I still pull over regularly for a break, I just dont bother with the fuel.

bob10
16th July 2016, 06:47 PM
All good answers. After some thought. I think what would work for me is a steel replacement rear bar, with a swing away carrier, set up for jerry cans, for water or fuel, depending on the trip, [ alternatively for a lockable container, for recovery gear], with a fuel tank guard . I have a mate who is a boilermaker, so we should be able to knock up a rear bar, no worries. I would use the ATP fuel tank guard, simple as to install. I know one of the aftermarket mob sell the bits for a swing away carrier. Works out cheaper than the big tank, I think. Half the fun in this game is setting the vehicle up.

ozscott
16th July 2016, 09:56 PM
Fuel I'd illegal on the rear. Water ok. Cheers

kelvo
17th July 2016, 12:06 AM
Fuel I'd illegal on the rear. Water ok. Cheers

True for petrol, but diesel is ok.

Pierre
19th July 2016, 07:20 PM
Alter the rear springs so the cantilever load added by the steel rear bar and, say, 2 jerricans, full, can be carried safely without problems.

But that's another question, young Bob.

Cheers
Pete

ozscott
19th July 2016, 08:10 PM
They can be safely carried. Where has anyone in the history of Aulro or Disco Web etc ever caused chassis damage by such load...? The towball is further back again and can take 350kg without mods... Cheers

Pierre
21st July 2016, 10:59 AM
Sag and sway, as the lineys say.

No damage could be done, but the vehicle handling can be affected, especially if the rear load area is full of everything that matters as well.

Pete

Disco Muppet
21st July 2016, 12:29 PM
If you don't have ACE or SLS, fit sill tanks ;)

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

Fluids
21st July 2016, 07:00 PM
Know of any ?

Sent by iPhone using two tin cans and Forum Runner

ozscott
21st July 2016, 07:09 PM
If you don't have ACE or SLS, fit sill tanks ;)

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app
The ones I have seen sit lower than the Sills/sliders. Quite exposed cheers

Disco Muppet
21st July 2016, 07:31 PM
I'm sure you could get some fabricated that are suitably positioned.


Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

ballbag
22nd July 2016, 08:38 AM
I had sills fitted by Les Richmond in Melbourne. 2" lift, yet to get hung up on things that have caught buddies in lifted Hilux and Troopy. They are flush with the crossmember.

ozscott
22nd July 2016, 07:04 PM
Nice