Oils Ain't Oils

[perrygamsby]

I am planning on doing a complete fluid change when I take delivery of the '95 300Tdi Defender next week. Having had clean fingernails for several years, I have forgotten a lot of stuff, so bear with me, please. I have searched the threads but feel justified in starting a new one.

1. Engine oil. Is anyone familiar with Chief Seneca 15W40? Seems good value from SupaCheap Auto for $55 x 10l.
2. Gearbox - I don't want to put ATF DexII or III in having read many comments in the threads. So I'm thinking Chief Tanoa 75W90, 4l @ $35. About $5 more than the ATF.
3. Diffs - Chief Tanoa Gear Oil 80W90 4l @ $27

No, this isn't a viral marketing plug for Chief oils. I am thinking if I use all the same stuff then there is only one mob to curse should something go wrong. Price and reviews so far support the hypothesis, but maybe someone here knows more? Are Nulon products worth the extra money? What about Penrite? For reasons of time and simplicity I prefer to buy all at once from the one place.

I also noted the Ryco oil, fuel and air filters are far more expensive than what I can order online, like double. I have a Cooper oil filter for a 3.9V8 Disco I '94 that I believe is the same part as for the 300Tdi. Yes?

Lastly, I will never forget draining the gearbox on Wally for the first time, then discovering the filler plug is a torque thingy. I didn't have any and managed to make it, on foot, to the now long gone local parts place just as they were closing. Why, Land Rover... why? What's wrong with a hex nut, or a square nut or a regular kind of thingy? No, you have to use a torque.

Anyway, any comments will be appreciated.

[rc42]

I've found the cheaper oil to be fine for the engine but change it more often new cheap oil is still much better then old expensive oil and regular oil change is the best preventative maintenance that an engine can have.

Also I would never do an oil change without a Molybdenum Disulphide additive, the engine runs noticeably quieter and cooler with it. The MoS2 additives are great in the diffs too, I've also tried the PTFE additives and found them to be a waste of money though.

As for non dex ATF in an automatic gearbox, you're on your own with that but hope it goes well

[Scouse]

As for non dex ATF in an automatic gearbox, you're on your own with that but hope it goes wellNot too many 300tdi Defenders with an auto.
I think he's referring to the original spec for the gearbox which was later revised by LR to a MTF spec oil.

[perrygamsby]

I think some oils are made to include a large margin for marketing and promotion costs and the price doesn't necessarily reflect the manufacturing costs; more a case of we need oil in this bracket, this bracket and some really expensive stuff in this bracket. I agree, better to have new but cheaper oil in regularly than leave expensive stuff in too long.

I won't use the ATF in the gearbox but go for the MTF. Anyway, first complete fluid change is now on hold thanks to the heart attack that happened two hours after I returned from the delivery trip (Gold Coast to Sydney). No straining oneself or driving for 2 weeks. Bugger.

[AndyG]

That's a bugger, was the trip stressful due to weather. Look after yourself, what are you doing re other fluids, belts, hoses etc?

[perrygamsby]

The weather was a factor but the stress was more the worry that if anything went wrong I had wife and five kids to look after. I had 'contingencies' in the form of NRMA top cover insurance in case of accident and NRMA roadside assistance for breakdown; both of which would get us home safely but one still prefers not to have to call for help.

I think it was more a case of my time had come. So, big life review now. I will sit in the Defender and ponder the way ahead... while noting down the fixes I really should get around to!

[snowbound]

Wake up call alright? How old are you? I'm in the danger zone now, brobably should de-stress, but running a business AND a RRC I doubt I will!

[perrygamsby]

Wake up call alright? How old are you? I'm in the danger zone now, brobably should de-stress, but running a business AND a RRC I doubt I will!

I am 53, obese, was a smoker and now also diabetic so right in the frame on all counts. Such is life, so much easier for me to become one of the insufferable converted and live a perfect lifestyle.... now the horse has kicked the crap out of the stable door...and remind everyone at every opportunity to don't do this, don't do that. Nah, I'll just chill and mind my own.

[AndyG]

You would like our Company Doctor here, your a fat bastard, have a beer :D

[superquag]

G'day
I'm one of the converted... gave up smoking 40+ per day and a pipe & cigars, which made me unbearable to my smoking colleagues....and now that I've 'reversed' my Type II diabetes AND lost 30+ kg and kept it off for nigh on 3 years.... I'm an expert at being self-righteous and insufferable !

All of this after several heart proceedures.... got half a dozen stents in mine, and blood sugars high enough to lose my licence.
Good news is, you can re-build the stable door and get your life on track, so you can spend time on dirt tracks...

Since we LR tragics are a DIY mob, I'll suggest one book to point you in the right direction. (Conventional medical advice will NOT help you...).
- Gary Taubes' "Why we get fat and what to do about it" Get it on evilbay, and google it on you-tube, which is easier than having me rant and rave...

PM if you want more details... am off to my Flying Lesson now. :p:p:p

(more addictive than owning a Classic Range Rover.)

[perrygamsby]

Thanks for the tip on Gary Taubs, I will check him and his book out. At the moment my focus is on surviving the next few days while my back repairs itself. Sitting up in bed as ordered meant all the weight went to my lower lumbar region. After a few days I was crippled and can barely stand let alone walk. Worst thing is, getting into my Defender is painful, yet once I am in, I can sit there for hours. Sad individual, I know.

[AndyG]

You might need a side step for the Defender, to make it a bit easier. But it's all $

[Svengali0]

I am planning on doing a complete fluid change when I take delivery of the '95 300Tdi Defender next week. Having had clean fingernails for several years, I have forgotten a lot of stuff, so bear with me, please. I have searched the threads but feel justified in starting a new one.

1. Engine oil. Is anyone familiar with Chief Seneca 15W40? Seems good value from SupaCheap Auto for $55 x 10l.
2. Gearbox - I don't want to put ATF DexII or III in having read many comments in the threads. So I'm thinking Chief Tanoa 75W90, 4l @ $35. About $5 more than the ATF.
3. Diffs - Chief Tanoa Gear Oil 80W90 4l @ $27

No, this isn't a viral marketing plug for Chief oils. I am thinking if I use all the same stuff then there is only one mob to curse should something go wrong. Price and reviews so far support the hypothesis, but maybe someone here knows more? Are Nulon products worth the extra money? What about Penrite? For reasons of time and simplicity I prefer to buy all at once from the one place.

I also noted the Ryco oil, fuel and air filters are far more expensive than what I can order online, like double. I have a Cooper oil filter for a 3.9V8 Disco I '94 that I believe is the same part as for the 300Tdi. Yes?

Lastly, I will never forget draining the gearbox on Wally for the first time, then discovering the filler plug is a torque thingy. I didn't have any and managed to make it, on foot, to the now long gone local parts place just as they were closing. Why, Land Rover... why? What's wrong with a hex nut, or a square nut or a regular kind of thingy? No, you have to use a torque.

Anyway, any comments will be appreciated.

R380 oils have been an issue for me over the last few months. I went down the track of purchasing oil from Super C***p- ie- Nulon 75/90 'Smoothshi*t' and Castrol EP 80/90 for the diffs. Heavier stuff for the transfer.
Anyways, the 75/90 is an API spec GL-5 (for the gearbox)- and while this worked ok for about 10000km, eventually, the gearbox said 'too hot' after a 140km drive and gave up the ghost. You need a GL-4 spec for the R380- which is to say, your gearbox.
I then purchased a second hand later suffix gearbox from TR spares in SA- and promptly purchased full synthetic Nulon 75/85.
The gear changes were ok, but baulky at times.
I drained this after 5000km to inspect the day before the 3 month warranty on the gearbox ran out just to inspect. It came out clean enough I guess, some small metal shavings on the drain plug were a bit of a worry though.
Long story short, I ended up replacing the oil with Penrite pro-gear full synthetic 75/85 at $36 for 2.5 litres from Repco.
The change in gearbox behaviour is amazing. Lovely shifting at all speeds and temperatures, more quiet.
So the upshot is:
For that gearbox, go Penrite or Castrol Syntrans. Don't muck about with the box. Another product called VMX80 M is reputedly good too- I believe Superc***p sell this- or used to.
Diffs and transfer- any old EP 80/90 will do but as others have stated- the regularity of changes are the key to long life in diffs and transfer.
Engine wise- I use Shell Rimula. It's my preference and superc**p do sell that. About $110 for 20 litres.
HTH

[ATH]

As my Doc said when I put on weight after giving up smoking..."Better to be a bit of a fat bastard than a smoker".:D
That was nearly 40 years ago when a pkt of 20 B & H were 55c a pack.
I'm no richer though, as I spend it all on beer.
Good luck with getting back to health.....and don't worry about breaking down, the Cook and me are quite often on our own on all sorts of roads and have never once had a problem. If it does happen ....I'll crack a stubby and think about it.:p
AlanH.