D4 ride difference 2010/11 to 2013?

[Graeme]

Has anyone noticed a ride difference between the early D4s and MY13? Rear shock part numbers changed for MY12 then fronts changed for MY13.

I found the shocks on my MY10 too harsh especially the fronts but having tried D3 then Delphi non-LR spec D3 shocks I'm going back to D4 shocks. Its 4 years since the originals were removed and now have 17" rims so may not get a good feel for any difference. Perhaps someone else has had the opportunity to compare them although not a valid comparison if the early shocks have done high kms.

[PaulGOz]

I have had a 2009 d4 and now have a 2013 d4. I thought the shocks in the 2009 were to soft especially once the arb bar was added and the vehicle fully loaded. I dont have the bar on the 2013 but find the front behaves better without the bar. The 2013 also only has 24k kms the 2009 I had until it hit 63k kms. I don't think the 2013 is harsh at all, I think it is better behaved but its nit apples and apples and the difference so small it needs to be an apples to apples comparison.

The bigger difference between early and later d4s is the later is quieter and seems more refined, some of it is eelated to engine tdv6 vs 3.0l, 8 speed box, I have also noticed sound insulation in floor and other places seems thicker and there appear to be different body pressings perhaps contributing to the feeling of refinement.

[Celtoid]

It's funny you should ask this question Graeme, I've been meaning to do the same. But I think I may muddy the waters.


I had a 2009 build D4 and now have a late 2013 build. Both are SE with the 3.0L 600nm engine.


I asked my wife to see what her opinion was, shortly after I bought it and we both feel the new car has softer (read ... too soft suspension) compared to the older one. It just seems bouncy.


However, I did run Scorpion ATRs for the best part of the ownership on the older one .... and I do remember them being much more firm than the Wranglers ... so maybe that's all it is?!

[Graeme]

Thanks for the replies. Ride quality is quite a personal preference.

I don't like bouncing and wallowing but don't like following every surface undulation either, just looking for a suitable compromise. I thought about fitting CVDs but too much involved in fitting the wiring, ecu and replacing the height sensors with no guarantee that the ride would be any more to my liking.

I too had Pirelli ATRs fitted from day 1 and acknowledge that their stiffer sidewalls probably contributed to some harshness. However the biggest concern at the time was that the suspension didn't allow reasonable movement over bumps and undulations causing the vehicle to continually be tossed left and right and jiggled on poorer country roads where the shocks were barely moving, much like the ride from locked D2 ACE bars.

The new part numbers could have been allocated for a number of reasons and the valving could be unchanged. I'll find out soon enough whether I should have gone for another set of D3 shocks instead.

[Graeme]

The new D4 shocks arrived today so I'll fit at least the rears when the showers stop. They have a BWI Group label rather than the previous Dephi but maybe BWI is just a Delphi subsidiary.

Edit: BWI, not BMI. BWI is BeijingWest Industries.

[BobD]

Graeme,


If you don't like them I will buy them off you and you can have my rear Delphi D3 shocks, which are way too soft for me. I still have the original fronts at 170,000km and they seem OK to me, although I would no doubt notice the difference if I put new ones on.

[Graeme]

Thanks Bob for the offer to swap - you are so kind, but been there done that with Delphis and wouldn't go down that path again. The rocking to sleep has been scary of late even without considering the wheels flopping about the place on rough spots.

If you had refitted D4s to the rear you may have found the fronts lacking in comparison. I have a short drive in the morning with only the new rears which I expect will really show-up the fronts before they're replaced shortly afterwards.

[Graeme]

It seems that LR has improved on the original D4 shock significantly. The ride is now great - good control over bumps and potholes yet the original sharpness hitting a bump then snatching back down after the bump no longer occurs. The D4 now rides quite rough tracks well at any speed. The D3 shocks that I fitted because I got sick of the race-track ride introduced some wallowing at higher speeds but no wallowing is evident with these shocks. The fuel tank is full but no other weight to smooth the ride.

Sorry Bob, they're keepers.

[Basil135]

I have the MY13, and have driven Tombies MY11 recently.

Apart from the obvious differences due to tyres, mine are still standard, and he has a more AT tyre, I didn't really notice much, if any difference in the ride quality at all.

Now, to keep it equal, his car is carrying a bit more weight. Plates underneath & rear wheel carrier, which may soften a slightly firmer ride.

The 2 cars feel different, but it is hard to describe just how. I wouldn't say one rides better than the other, just different.

So, after all that, not sure if I helped at all... Lol

[BobD]

I'm glad you like them Graeme. I've never noticed any harshness in my original shocks. The ride on really rough roads has always been fantastic, even with worn shocks.


Where did you get them and what part number are they? I might get the same since they seem to be what I am also looking for to relace the fronts and the D3 rears.

[Graeme]

Went out again today, this time for a 140 km return run to town and then a bit over roads traveled weekly. The rear end definitely doesn't get snatched back down over bumps on country roads, instead being much more gentle in the process. They don't cause the previous jarring of my wife's injured back and there's no way I would have thought of replacing them if they had given this ride originally.

The shock numbers supersede the original D4 numbers so the original ones cannot be purchased unless from old stock hiding somewhere. JLRA didn't have any stock so would have been at least a 3 week wait ex UK because LR wont ship them by air although Duckworths were happy to send by air. The front shocks (not assemblies) are LR013930 (cost 260 GBP per pair) and the rear shocks (not assemblies) LR038095 (cost 230 GBP per pair) + 97 GBP UPS air freight.

Whether just the shocks or the complete air-spring assemblies are replaced depends on how many kms the air-springs have done and if they will be fitted by someone else that will cost more due to the extra time. I did the rears first with their dust protectors taking a bit more time but the 2nd front only took 1 hour from start to finish including transferring the air-spring. The assemblies are substantially more expensive than just the shocks but as the air-springs themselves cost almost as much as the complete assemblies, if there's any doubt about the condition of the air-spring then replacing the whole assembly would seem to be appropriate.

[Geedublya]

Do you put a new seal kit in when you replace the shocks only?
I know it is recommended just want to check if it is necessary.

[Graeme]

A seal kit was included with each shock, including 2 large o-rings even though the shocks were pre-fitted with them. However I needed one to replace one pushed out of its groove and pinched. The sequence of the shaft seals is: o-ring, plastic collar, o-ring, plastic collar, coned collar. washer curved upwards.

To remove the chamber from the old shock I clamped the shock sideways in a small vice then used a lever under the locating tab. To refit I held the shock vertically then thumped the shock onto a block of wood a few times. Refitting the clamp around the dust protectors on the rears can be fiddly.

Last time I removed the inner front guards expecting easier access but decided at the time not to do so again due to excessive time removing headlights, wheel-arch flares etc for very little, if any, benefit. However under 2 of the 3 front top nuts is a stepped bracket that makes accessing the inner nut quite difficult, but perhaps easier with the inner guard removed. On the first shock change in 2010 I had not refitted the bracket under the inner nut, instead hooking the bracket on the stud over the top of the nut and only using the more accessible nut to clamp the bracket. This greatly improves access to the inner nut. I use a ratchet ring spanner to access the nuts.

[Geedublya]

Thanks Greame, I have some Koni FSDs that I bought for my D3 and then didn't fit due to the bad reports. I bought them from the UK so didn't bother trying to return them. I will get some seal kits for when I install them.
My D4 shocks are getting a little wallowy so I'm thinking I'll put the FSD's on and see how they go. Once the deteriate I'll replace them with the latest D4 shocks.

[Graeme]

My understanding is that the Konis may or may not fail prematurely depending on usage and extra weight on the vehicle rather than wear out quickly so you might get a good run from them.