TD5 - stopping the top radiator hose rub on air-conditioning compressor

[twr7cx]

Anyone got a decent solution for resolving the top radiator hose rubbing of the air conditioning compressor on a TD5?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/341.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_4133_zps822fcb66.jpg.html)

I've tried shortening the hose by 10mm at the radiator side to bring it forward.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/342.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_4134_zps8f4bb22f.jpg.html)

Also tried a shield piece to protect it, but that's starting to rub through now too.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/343.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_4136_zps68590e7a.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/344.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_4135_zpsdd6c38c2.jpg.html)

[bell1975]

Will have a look at mine for you tomorrow. Across the other side of the air conditioning pipework is another rub point - where the high pressure line can contact the "breather" that comes off the rocker cover.

[rangieman]

Yeah put a new hose on:cool:

[Davetd5]

I'm assuming your cooling system is not pressurizing? Mine was doing this when the system was pressurizing from a blown head gasket. All good now that the job's done.
I used an old piece of top hose with cable ties back then to protect the hose, but I also rotated the hose on the outlets to get the best balance of clearance from all the sharp things around.

[Bundalene]

A good dob of a neutral cure type of silastic on any such area where hoses come in close contact with other hoses or body work works wonders. We have always done this, especially with Defender air conditioning lines.






Erich

[Roverlord off road spares]

You could also do what you did before with the piece of rubber but sheath it with a piece of tin on the out side, so it will rub on the tin .

[kelvo]

Looking at the photos it looks like you've added a sandwich plate type sensor at the head end of the hose, I'd say you'd be better shortening the hose at that end.

[alien]

At the motor end is the white mark on the hose lining up with the mark on the water outlet?
It looks like it may need to be rotated to create the clearance required.

[PhilipA]

AFAIR I cut about 40MM from the radiator end and mine clears everything and has done a lap of OZ.

Regards Philip A
And I agree that it doesn't look aligned properly.

[twr7cx]

At the motor end is the white mark on the hose lining up with the mark on the water outlet?
It looks like it may need to be rotated to create the clearance required.

Wow, I had never noticed the white marks before! I just put the hose on and wiggled it around to see where it naturally wanted to sit and then clamped it there.

Rotating it around for the white mark to line up has resolved my issues as there is now a few mm of gap between my shield and the air conditioning compressor.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/292.jpg (http://s1185.photobucket.com/user/twr7cx/media/IMG_4168_zps93b8c9ec.jpg.html)

Thanks.

[akula]

Here's 1 of 2 places where my likely non-genuine top rad hose rubbed the ac compressor.
Although not clear from this pic there's substantially wear ~ 1 or 2 mm on the ac pipe - so that will need replacing I guess.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/265.jpg

The second and likely culprit for the hole.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/266.jpg


Resulting in this...



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/195.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/267.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/268.jpg




The reason I suspect the hose is non genuine is that the genuine one fitted today has a quite distinctively different profile (in side to side comparison) and it sits well above and away from the compressor...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/269.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/270.jpg



My advice, following potentially cooking my motor, get genuine parts and learn how and where to check the condition of the hoses and do not rely on mechanics (car regularly serviced at least x4 times by non-LR mechanic - none in Moree/Tamworth) to warn of problems.

Now the painful wait for the verdict of the pressure test that will be done in the new year...

[twr7cx]

My advice, following potentially cooking my motor, get genuine parts and learn how and where to check the condition of the hoses and do not rely on mechanics (car regularly serviced at least x4 times by non-LR mechanic - none in Moree/Tamworth) to warn of problems.

My advice to you is that you need to get and fit a low water sensor - it would have alerted you instantly when this occurred resulting in the ability to quickly pull over and shut the engine off and no overheating or resulting damage likely.

[akula]

My advice to you is that you need to get and fit a low water sensor - it would have alerted you instantly when this occurred resulting in the ability to quickly pull over and shut the engine off and no overheating or resulting damage likely.

I should have mentioned that I did/do have an Engine Saver brand low coolant alarm already installed (you may be able to see the loose cable for the sender/sensor in of one of the pics). I hadn't had a chance to put in the sensor thing in the bleed screw thing yet - I hadn't filled up with coolant or bled the system when pic was taken.

Interestingly/disturbingly the low coolant alarm did not go off at any time while the motor was running. I had noted around 4-6 degrees higher than usual temps though, but I misattributed that to the temp that day (~38 deg), the full loaded car, and the box trailer (empty) I was towing. It went off only after I had shut off the motor when I had lunch. Following that I called NRMA and did not turn on the car. Just before shutdown the block temp was 94 deg and the coolant temp (via Nanocom) was 91 deg. Unfortunately I didn't have the Nanocom running throughout the trip (I turned it on to clear the 3 Amigos).

[bell1975]

The other potential rub point is on the high pressure A/C line. Mine rubbed through a couple of years ago and robbed me of my gas.

It's shown here with the cable tie and 'protective' sheath in place to minimise future issues. In light of the reminder about the correct alignment of hoses I'll check my breather hose and see if an alignment problem is contributing.

Another spot to watch out for in relation to A/C (and I don't have a photo of this sorry) is where one of the A/C lines runs through the passenger side of the grille and enters the headlight cavity. Where mine had been sitting in the (damp) foam that surrounds the horn it had corroded away (sand and salty water would've contributed too undoubtedly)

I had the line repaired with a longer section of high pressure rubber hose so that there's no corrosion possible in that area.

[CU55TM Disco]

Has anyone else considered making the "T" out of stainless/copper/ally and extending it to the hard line that runs along the side of the head towards the rear of the engine?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/195.jpg

Esentiallly ridding the top hose of that T Piece join visable in the pic above, and, giving U somewhere else to mount a temp sender, low water pickup.

[scarry]

Even with the genuine top coolant hose,the small hose off the T will sometimes rub on one of the A/C pipes close to the A/C compresser.A bit of grey conduit hose or similar with a couple of cable ties to hold it onto the A/C pipe sorts out this issue for good.

Another hose to watch is the power steering hose,as it rubs on the side of the engine block low down near the sump.I bit of grey plastic flexible conduit or similar and a couple of cable ties also sorts out this problem for good.On a new vehicle,this hose actually came with a bit of foam wrapped around it that lasted a little while,but soon disintegrated and fell apart.