PAS Install

[BadCo.]

Hey everyone,

Looking at doing my power steering install over the holidays so just wanted to make sure I have everything and that I'm good to go. Then I'll write it up with pictures in this thread.

Items I have are (all are pre loved):
4BE/D1 hydraulic pump, mounts to the timing case in place of the blank.
4 bolt Steering box from Discovery 1
Reservoir
Piping, everything that was in the disco
Engine oil on hand
PAS fluid

So, should I get the box reconditioned? I hear it is expensive, more then the box it self.

Should I be replacing O-rings or other parts on the pump? If so, part numbers? I called Isuzu and they have a overhaul kit that costs more then the pump and won't sell individually except for a upper seal!?

How am I going to reuse the old solid pipes from the disco? Can you just cut them and use fridgy pipe benders on them?

Any special tools required?

Anything else I have missed?

Sorry for all the questions, just want to make sure I have everything sussed before I start. I'll have a mechanic mate on hand hopefully, he owes me for his new lights in his garage haha. Once I have my power steering all figured out it will be Paultans turn next!


Cheers,

BadCo.

[Phil B]

BadCo,

Cant help with advise I'm afraid but reading with interest.
Merry Christmas.
Phil.

[LandroverScott]

Hi BadCo,

A new O ring on the pump would be wise, also a new tie rod on the pitman arm while it is apart. As far as servicing the box if it was okmwhen pulled out it should be fine. Was it from a D1 as the match the bolt holes in the chassis

Regards
Scott

[BadCo.]

BadCo,

Cant help with advise I'm afraid but reading with interest.
Merry Christmas.
Phil.

No worries, I hope people thinking of doing this take something from my experience.


Hi BadCo,

A new O ring on the pump would be wise, also a new tie rod on the pitman arm while it is apart. As far as servicing the box if it was okmwhen pulled out it should be fine. Was it from a D1 as the match the bolt holes in the chassis

Regards
Scott

Hey Scott thanks for the reply. Do you know the part number or a specific description for the o-ring?

The box is from a D1, amended original post to reflect this.

Tie rod is a good idea, what about the cross rod ball joint too? Actually I think my cross rod is bent so will probably need a entire new one.

[usi]

Have a good look here.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/12/220.jpg (http://s192.photobucket.com/user/jlu1984/media/Land%20Rover/LROC-October14StocktonBeach009-edit.jpg.html)
It was my excuse for fitting power steering. Oh and it was about 1.5L of Power Steering Fluid from memory with the KLR supplied reservoir

[BadCo.]

What am I looking at there? Is that a crack?

[usi]

Sure is! It was almost the whole way through

[DWCamo]

Hi all,
I need to add a little power steering fluid to my reservoir. Anyone know what type I should use?

Brad at KLR installed the power steering unit in my Perentie (Carryall) earlier this year.

Cheers, DW
(48-350)

[isuzurover]

Since you have a disco box, the most important thing is making sure you have pullers that can get the drop arm off to swap over. This part is often a huge PITA.

You should also have:
Loctite retaining compound and a HUGE torque wrench to fit the 110 drop arm on the disco box.

Check the box for play. A good idea to replace the bottom seal at least while you have it out.

Is the reservoir a D1 plastic type? They are a million times better than the 110 metal type.

As for connections, measure up the distances, then take all the bits into the equivalent of ENZED or PIRTEK over there and get them to make up some flexible hoses. They will need to use the box ends from your lines, however the isuzu pump end fittings are standard so they should have them on the shelf.

[BadCo.]

Since you have a disco box, the most important thing is making sure you have pullers that can get the drop arm off to swap over. This part is often a huge PITA.


Good point, I'll get some penetrating grease on it now then.



You should also have:
Loctite retaining compound and a HUGE torque wrench to fit the 110 drop arm on the disco box.


Any particular colour loctite?



Check the box for play. A good idea to replace the bottom seal at least while you have it out.


Any idea what the seal part number is?



Is the reservoir a D1 plastic type? They are a million times better than the 110 metal type.


Plastic! :D



As for connections, measure up the distances, then take all the bits into the equivalent of ENZED or PIRTEK over there and get them to make up some flexible hoses. They will need to use the box ends from your lines, however the isuzu pump end fittings are standard so they should have them on the shelf.

Excellent, thanks for all the info! :D

[isuzurover]

Any particular colour loctite?

The strongest one - 680
http://www.gotstock.com.au/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/450x/0dc2d03fe217f8c83829496872af24a0/l/o/loctite_680_pn68050.png




Any idea what the seal part number is?


No, but it should be on here somewhere if you search.

[Blknight.aus]

Have all your solid lines made with a flare join in the middle of them, have the flex hoses modded using screw type fittings as opposed to crimp fittings.



the first lets you split the line and get some slack in the system when you move th lines it also lets you have the ability to flex the line and get the angle of dangels just right before you tighten everything up.

the second means that when you have a rub through you can remake the hose with the fittings all you need to get is the right kind of hose section, which is lot easier than getting a custom hose madde up and sent out to the middle of nowhere.

[DWCamo]

Hi all,
I need to add a little power steering fluid to my reservoir. Anyone know what type I should use?

Brad at KLR installed the power steering unit in my Perentie (Carryall) earlier this year.

Cheers, DW
(48-350)


KLR has confirmed that they use Dex III fluid in88760 their kits.

[BadCo.]

Did a bit off digging and found the bottom seal kit

STC2848 | Pas Seal Kit Output Shaft 3 & 4 Bolt - Land Rover Part STC2848 (http://www.lrdirect.com/STC2848-Seal-Kit-Output-Shaft-34-Bolt-Pas/'sfi=STC2848)

Still working on the pump seal though.

[steveG]

You might find this useful - pump shaft seal P/N and description in the last post:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/111532-isuzu-power-steering-pump-seal-replacement.html#post1315002

SteveG

[BadCo.]

You might find this useful - pump shaft seal P/N and description in the last post:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/111532-isuzu-power-steering-pump-seal-replacement.html#post1315002

SteveG

That whole thread is exactly what I need, you are awesome. No idea how I didn't pick that up in my searches though.

[BadCo.]

Hit the first snag, can't get the cross rod of the pitman arm tie rod end. Any suggestions?

[isuzurover]

Hit the first snag, can't get the cross rod of the pitman arm tie rod end. Any suggestions?

??? I am not sure what you mean by "cross rod"

[BadCo.]

I cannot remove 9/11 from 15.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachments/f7/15860d1273937510-drop-arm-steering-advice-please-steering-diagram.jpg

[isuzurover]

I cannot remove 11 from 15.


Ah. If you don't have a suitable puller you need to break out the BFHs. Place a sledge or large lump hammer firmly against one side, and give the other side a whack. If you do it right the shock will pop it off the tapered shaft.

[BadCo.]

Ah. If you don't have a suitable puller you need to break out the BFHs. Place a sledge or large lump hammer firmly against one side, and give the other side a whack. If you do it right the shock will pop it off the tapered shaft.

That did the trick beautifully. Took a few good hits but it got there. Thanks for the tip!

[BadCo.]

Ok original box is out with drop arm off.

Now I think ill have to mount the new box so I can undo the drop arm nut with the breaker bar. Surprisingly the nut on the original box wasn't that tight.

[BadCo.]

After messing with the new box trying to get it in I would recommend anyone doing this to remove the radiator and the brackets and prop your hood with something else and also remove the support bracket (item 12 in the picture in post 19). The box is a bitch to get it in and out on your own!

Once mounted I did get the 34mm nut off, then out came the box again and I had a crack at getting the old arm off before the light started to fade. No luck so far. I'll have another go tomorrow.

[steveG]

My experience is that if its on tight, they are an absolute mongrel to remove. The one on my County took about a week for me to get it off. Penetrant, puller, more penetrant, some heat (didn't have oxy which may have been better than LPG torch), and finally a more substantial puller and a serious whack with a lump hammer while it was loaded up.
I'd even got to the stage where I was convinced it wasn't going to come off serviceable and had ordered a new arm when it finally gave up fighting.

If I've got it right and you're trying to remove the original arm from the D1 box, save yourself a headache and possible damage to the box by grinding a flat on the arm until its nearly through to the spline. That should release it and make it easy to remove

Steve

[BadCo.]

If I've got it right and you're trying to remove the original arm from the D1 box, save yourself a headache and possible damage to the box by grinding a flat on the arm until its nearly through to the spline. That should release it and make it easy to remove

Steve

Hm, I might do as you say and attack it with a grinder. What about if I use a cutting disk to grind a slot almost through the arm then use the cold chisel to split the rest? Not sure how well that would work and don't want to damage the spline.

[isuzurover]

Hm, I might do as you say and attack it with a grinder. What about if I use a cutting disk to grind a slot almost through the arm then use the cold chisel to split the rest? ....

That works too. Just remember the shaft is tapered... ;)

[steveG]

I prefer the grind a flat approach. Usually when it gets thin you start to see a colour change so you know you're close. Hard to judge depth with a cutting disc especially the really thin ones and they cut quickly.

Steve

[BadCo.]

I have made some progress, which I will detail soon. But for now I just want to check my plumbing is correct before I go to the hose shop.

How does my sweet MS Paint picture look?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90614&stc=1&d=1423859264

[LandroverScott]

Here you go,

[BadCo.]

It was your pictures on remlr I was working off :-D

[brad56]

Hi Bad Co thanks for the information in the photo it confirms what I had thought would be the piping layout.
I have overhauled my pump unit replaced all the 3 O rings, seal, fitted a speede sleeve to the seal area as it had signs of wearer .
My seal kit for the steering box has arrived from the UK . I will re build the steering box in the coming week will take lots of photos, have a work shop manual so that should help will have to do some reading before I start.
How's progress on your unit going?
thanks to all who have posted information regarding power steering up grade
Brad

[BadCo.]

Hi Bad Co thanks for the information in the photo it confirms what I had thought would be the piping layout.


I'm guessing at this, and no one has confirmed it is right. But it looks legit.


My seal kit for the steering box has arrived from the UK . I will re build the steering box in the coming week will take lots of photos, have a work shop manual so that should help will have to do some reading before I start.
How's progress on your unit going?
thanks to all who have posted information regarding power steering up grade
Brad

Are you just doing the bottom seal? There is a how to on here, I'll try find it.

My progress is going good, just waiting to get the high pressure hose made with the restriction in it and then I can reassemble!

Edit: Here you go

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/168668-repairing-leaking-steering-box.html

Just to add to it, the washer with rubber on it is a bitch to get out, and the new one is a bitch to get in, but keep at it and you'll get it done. Should be able to do it in an hour.

[steveG]

I'm guessing at this, and no one has confirmed it is right. But it looks legit.



Are you just doing the bottom seal? There is a how to on here, I'll try find it.

My progress is going good, just waiting to get the high pressure hose made with the restriction in it and then I can reassemble!

Edit: Here you go

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/168668-repairing-leaking-steering-box.html

Just to add to it, the washer with rubber on it is a bitch to get out, and the new one is a bitch to get in, but keep at it and you'll get it done. Should be able to do it in an hour.

Restriction in the HP hose??
Just curious as to where/why as I don't have such an animal in my County...

Steve

[LandroverScott]

Here you go,

Hi BadCo,

yep this is FFRMAN from REMLR

yes the piping is correct, at least this is KLR kit and instructions and has been working for the last 4 months - so maybe it's Legit! Lol

How is yours going?

cheers
Scott

[BadCo.]

Restriction in the HP hose??
Just curious as to where/why as I don't have such an animal in my County...

Steve

To be honest I have no idea, the hose guy said they sometimes put a restricter in the HP line. We don't know if there is one yet because the old hose hasn't been dismantled.


Hi BadCo,

yep this is FFRMAN from REMLR

yes the piping is correct, at least this is KLR kit and instructions and has been working for the last 4 months - so maybe it's Legit! Lol

How is yours going?

cheers
Scott

So your big hose goes from the resevoir to the underneath of your pump as the supply? It's a little hard to distinguish in your photos. Then you come out the front of the pump (side for me) to the box?

Cheers Scott

[LandroverScott]

does this photo help. The big hose is the supply, the smaller hose is the pressure/delivery hose to the steering box, the other is obviously the return.

[BadCo.]

does this photo help. The big hose is the supply, the smaller hose is the pressure/delivery hose to the steering box, the other is obviously the return.

Yeah mate, that confirms it. Cheers for that Scott!

[steveG]

Badco - the pump has a restrictor in it. If you were to disassemble the output fitting/pressure regulator you'll see a flat section with 2 small holes in it.

I found out about it as I had a weird issue on the County where you'd occasionally swing into a carpark or similar and loose most of the power assist. It would generally come right the next time you drove it.
I changed steering boxes, checked everything but couldn't find anything wrong. I got lucky as the issue became permanent. Stripped the pump and found a small bit of hard debris stuck in one of the restrictor holes. Removed it, issue fixed and still going strong a few years later :)

Steve

[BadCo.]

Badco - the pump has a restrictor in it. If you were to disassemble the output fitting/pressure regulator you'll see a flat section with 2 small holes in it.

I found out about it as I had a weird issue on the County where you'd occasionally swing into a carpark or similar and loose most of the power assist. It would generally come right the next time you drove it.
I changed steering boxes, checked everything but couldn't find anything wrong. I got lucky as the issue became permanent. Stripped the pump and found a small bit of hard debris stuck in one of the restrictor holes. Removed it, issue fixed and still going strong a few years later :)

Steve

Yup just pulled the HP line apart and no restriction!

So, this is where I am at:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90835&stc=1&d=1424318435

Hose ready to be installed, only thing is, anybody know where I can get my hands on a threaded flange?

[brad56]

Hi Bad Co and all other interested parties I Striped down my steering box completely have found several issues bottom seal pitman arm seal area corroded needs a speede sleeve will be a problem to fit as it has to be fitted after the box is re assembled this will make future overhauls very difficult as the shaft has to be removed through roller bearings, so the speede sleeve will have to be removed before strip down which will be made more difficult because of the seals .
(A word of caution when removing pitman arm using hammers either side of arm make sure you only hit the pitman arm & not the body of the box as you can distort the seal area as I did (only minor distortion put the box in the lathe and skimmed the distorted area as it made removing the seal sir clip near impossible)
The worm drive shaft has some major pitting to the bearing area, am finding it hard to find a replacement shaft so looks like I am in the market for another second hand power steering box hope the next box dose not have the same problem as it is starting to get expensive first box cost me $400 it was supposed to be in good condition according to the seller (very hard to check the box when buying over the phone you can only take there word .
The other problem I have had is with the seal kit I rushed into the strip down removing seals as I went I did not check the seals in the kit, the kit dose not supply the 3 Teflon square section seals on the worm drive shaft so check that you have all the necessary seals before removing old seals (very important)as Teflon square section seals of the correct size are hard to come by unless I make them out of a Teflon billet in the lathe, so at present I am at a stand still until I get a replacement box.
Having problems trying to post photos will try again at a later date
Brad

[BadCo.]

Hey mate, that is bad news. Can you take the box into a reconditioned? My box cost me 200 and to get it reconditioned was 450, so I obviously passed on that and just did the bottom seal myself.

[isuzurover]

Hi Bad Co and all other interested parties I Striped down my steering box completely have found several issues bottom seal pitman arm seal area corroded needs a speede sleeve will be a problem to fit as it has to be fitted after the box is re assembled this will make future overhauls very difficult as the shaft has to be removed through roller bearings, so the speede sleeve will have to be removed before strip down which will be made more difficult because of the seals .
(A word of caution when removing pitman arm using hammers either side of arm make sure you only hit the pitman arm & not the body of the box as you can distort the seal area as I did (only minor distortion put the box in the lathe and skimmed the distorted area as it made removing the seal sir clip near impossible)
The worm drive shaft has some major pitting to the bearing area, am finding it hard to find a replacement shaft so looks like I am in the market for another second hand power steering box hope the next box dose not have the same problem as it is starting to get expensive first box cost me $400 it was supposed to be in good condition according to the seller (very hard to check the box when buying over the phone you can only take there word .
The other problem I have had is with the seal kit I rushed into the strip down removing seals as I went I did not check the seals in the kit, the kit dose not supply the 3 Teflon square section seals on the worm drive shaft so check that you have all the necessary seals before removing old seals (very important)as Teflon square section seals of the correct size are hard to come by unless I make them out of a Teflon billet in the lathe, so at present I am at a stand still until I get a replacement box.
Having problems trying to post photos will try again at a later date
Brad

Sorry to hear that, but $400 is crazy money for a SH PAS Box. I bought a new one for about $450! I understand they have gone up a bit, but new ones with drop arm are still GBP325+shipping

NTC1580NOR | RHD 4 Bolt PAS Box complete with bent drop arm (outright) (http://www.paddockspares.com/ntc1580nor-rhd-4-bolt-pas-box-complete-with-bent-drop-arm-outright.html)

For others reading this thread I would stay away from SH PAS boxes, they usually have problems. If you do buy one SH I wouldn't pay more than $200.

[BadCo.]

Bolted all my hoses on today. PAS is good to go. Flushed the block out, installed new radiator hoses with a engine saver and went to put the recored radiator in and found out they rebuilt it to ****ing big.

On top of that my prop that was holding the bonnet up slipped out and the bonnet pin glanced off the side of my head. 2 hrs at A&E and 2 stitches later, the truck is still on axle stands and I'll be chasing up the radiator people tomorrow!

Can someone please take a measurement and a photo of the radiator so I can get an idea of how tall it is mean to be and how it sits in the engine bay?

Cheers

[isuzurover]

Bolted all my hoses on today. PAS is good to go. Flushed the block out, installed new radiator hoses with a engine saver and went to put the recored radiator in and found out they rebuilt it to ****ing big.

On top of that my prop that was holding the bonnet up slipped out and the bonnet pin glanced off the side of my head. 2 hrs at A&E and 2 stitches later, the truck is still on axle stands and I'll be chasing up the radiator people tomorrow!

Can someone please take a measurement and a photo of the radiator so I can get an idea of how tall it is mean to be and how it sits in the engine bay?

Cheers

That will be a lesson to remove the bonnet next time...

How is your rad too big? What exactly do you want measured/photographed?

[BadCo.]

That will be a lesson to remove the bonnet next time...

How is your rad too big? What exactly do you want measured/photographed?

Live and learn aye.

It's just too tall, its a good 15-20mm taller then the top of the grill. The fan almost touches the bottom of the shroud, and the shroud doesn't slot into the bottom lip on the bottom of the radiator. I can't get all three of the bolts threaded in for the radiator mounts, and finally the bonnet won't shut. I just want to be able to take it to the radiator shop, tell them exactly what's wrong and not have them question it.

So I guess just a height measurement will work and maybe a photo level with the top of the grill.

Like this:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90954&stc=1&d=1424495350

And yes, the pointy things on the bottom of the radiator are slotted into the rubber grommets :)

[isuzurover]

That looks about right.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/90955d1424496204-pas-install-20150221_131828.jpg

[BadCo.]

Hm, how odd.

Thanks for the photo.

Maybe its just the ends of the radiator, see how there is a bow in the top and the sides are higher?

[isuzurover]

So what exactly is fouling when you try and close the bonnet?
Looks like you need to adjust the mudguard end of your top mount brackets.

[BadCo.]

So what exactly is fouling when you try and close the bonnet?
Looks like you need to adjust the mudguard end of your top mount brackets.

I would have to check what is fouling the bonnet in the morning.

The holes for the three bolts on the top mount brackets don't line up.

I'll have another look tomorrow, I did have a concussion and was profusely bleeding at the time.

[rathgar]

I would have to check what is fouling the bonnet in the morning.

The holes for the three bolts on the top mount brackets don't line up.

I'll have another look tomorrow, I did have a concussion and was profusely bleeding at the time.
Now your head is out of the way it might close properly!

[BadCo.]

Now your head is out of the way it might close properly!

It was probably the clump of hair on the end of the pin that stopped it going in!

[Bearman]

BadCo, it looks like your d/side radiator mount is bent upwards, That is possibly what is fouling the bonnet.

[BadCo.]

BadCo, it looks like your d/side radiator mount is bent upwards, That is possibly what is fouling the bonnet.

That radiator mount won't sit right on the radiator, the fan shroud is hitting the bonnet.

I'll have a proper look once the rain stops, potentially I have done something wrong somewhere after receiving my concussion!

[brad56]

Hi Bad Co hope these photos help, Have uploaded the maximum of 5 files for this post will up load the rest in the next post Brad.

[BadCo.]

Hi Bad Co hope these photos help, Have uploaded the maximum of 5 files for this post will up load the rest in the next post Brad.

Cheers mate, appreciate your time. I'll look at them on the computer when I get home and compare them.

[brad56]

other photos Brad.

[brad56]

Hi All if your PSA feels gritty whilst rotating the input shaft this is the most probable cause there are other pits in the bearing seating area on the opposite side of the shaft which cant be seen
Brad

[BadCo.]

other photos Brad.

Thanks again for the photos.

Quick question, where did you get that bracket for the PAS reservoir?

[BadCo.]

other photos Brad.

I was outside tinkering again, trying to see if I had made a mistake somewhere. But it's straight forward, not many places to go wrong.

As you can see from the photo, mine doesn't sir anything like brads.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=91008&stc=1&d=1424591171

[LandroverScott]

Just a thought, did you put the plastic cowl on upside down??

[BadCo.]

Just a thought, did you put the plastic cowl on upside down??

It can only go in one way. It slots in the bottom and screws in the top.

A mechanic mate is coming over after work to have a look, maybe he will spot something. I'm confident it's the radiator though!

[brad56]

Hi Bad Co, when I purchased the 110 the bracket was in the cab between the seats it was a fire extinguisher holder bracket it just happened to fit the reservoir unit I cut it to required length did not have to drill holes as the holes that where there fitted the holes in the body work on the mudguard.
I have now fitted a cable tie to the bracket through the retainer hole so it wont accidently come open which could be a major problem if it finds it way near the fan
Brad

[BadCo.]

Hi Bad Co, when I purchased the 110 the bracket was in the cab between the seats it was a fire extinguisher holder bracket it just happened to fit the reservoir unit I cut it to required length did not have to drill holes as the holes that where there fitted the holes in the body work on the mudguard.
I have now fitted a cable tie to the bracket through the retainer hole so it wont accidently come open which could be a major problem if it finds it way near the fan
Brad

Nice one, it looks the part.

[brad56]

Hi Bad Co, have you checked the dimension's of your Radiator if so what are they and I will check them against mine & see how they compare.
have you talked to the radiator people?, normally when you have a radiator re cored they use your existing header tanks on the new core so I am thinking that they may have some how mixed up your radiator with some one else's slim possibility .
Brad

[BadCo.]

Hi Bad Co, have you checked the dimension's of your Radiator if so what are they and I will check them against mine & see how they compare.
have you talked to the radiator people?, normally when you have a radiator re cored they use your existing header tanks on the new core so I am thinking that they may have some how mixed up your radiator with some one else's slim possibility .
Brad

It's not so much been mixed up, it's just poor workmanship when they reassembled it.

My mechanic mate came over, and to put it simply, he used a bigger hammer then I did.

It's all hooked up, and if you jump on the bonnet it closes, and the bracket looks warped. Still not happy though. Once it is running I'll take it back to the shop and see what they say. Just need to fix a small leak in the HP hose :-D

[brad56]

Good to see you have it all connected and running when you fix the leak can you let us know if you are happy with the results.
Brad

[BadCo.]

Took it for a spin around the house, holy **** its an amazing difference!

I'll take it for a proper drive after dinner, see how it goes.

[isuzurover]

It's not so much been mixed up, it's just poor workmanship when they reassembled it.

My mechanic mate came over, and to put it simply, he used a bigger hammer then I did.

It's all hooked up, and if you jump on the bonnet it closes, and the bracket looks warped. Still not happy though. Once it is running I'll take it back to the shop and see what they say. Just need to fix a small leak in the HP hose :-D

My radiator seemed a bit bigger after i got it recored. I suspect the dimensions of the new cores may be slightly different.

[BadCo.]

Hey everyone, time for a bit of a review.

I took it for a longer drive today. The power steering feels really good with low speed manoeuvring, parking etc. But at high speeds it seems a little sloppy and all over the place. I'm not sure if it is the PAS, the tires, just me not used to it or a combination of all three.

When Paultan does his I'll take lots of photos and do a write up.

Thanks everyone for your time and help!

BadCo

[isuzutoo-eh]

Having a PAS fitted County and armstrong Perentie, I still wouldn't put PAS in my Perentie. Just an opinion but I wouldn't think of it as a crucial upgrade...

[brad56]

Hi Bad Co have you adjusted the steering box to remove free play in the sreering box?
It is adjusted the same way you adjust a manual steering box.

[BadCo.]

Hi Bad Co have you adjusted the steering box to remove free play in the sreering box?
It is adjusted the same way you adjust a manual steering box.

Nope I haven't, I'll have to look into it then. Thanks for that.

How is yours getting on?

[BadCo.]

Tried to adjust the box but couldn't get the lock nut off. Need to borrow a 3/4" extension for my breaker bar.

Do I need to upgrade the 28 year old steering damper?

[brad56]

Hi Bade Co if after the adjustment of the steering box you still have the wonders in the steering I would start to check the other steering components for play, also the tyre's as some brands of skinny (standard) tend to cause the vehicle wander on the road .
hope this helps
Brad

[BadCo.]

Small update, I'm still chasing the wandering. Waiting for some money so I can replace these tires.

Also I have found a leak. It appears to be coming from the flange on the pump inlet. I was never happy with this flange as I had to modify it to get it to fit.

What have people used on their pumps for the high pressure output flange?

[brad56]

Hi Bad Co how is your power steering going ?
I almost have mine on the road have been mucked around for the past 2 months by the Hydraulic hose fitter so Got the sh*ts with him and got another to do the Job we are now waiting on a fitting for the hydraulic pump that will give me more clearance between the power steering box and pump outlet as I was not happy with clearance of the straight out of the pump pressure line fitting (would have hit the steering box if the vehicle had a heavy load due to motor movement ) How much clearance do you have between the pump pressure line outlet, to steering box?
What sort of money where you charged for your Hydraulic hoses?
Hope all is going well for you
Brad

[BadCo.]

Hi Bad Co how is your power steering going ?


Had a leak from the bottom of the pump so have pulled it apart. I got a new gasket and resealed the flange connection, but I haven't reassembled yet.


How much clearance do you have between the pump pressure line outlet, to steering box?


Bugger all! Didn't realise how close it was until I put everything together. I wouldn't mind changing it to a Banjo type fitting.

Let me know what fitting you go with, is I may want to do the same.


What sort of money where you charged for your Hydraulic hoses?
Hope all is going well for you
Brad

The hoses cost about $200, and was done pain free. Just talked through it with the guy and he was good about it.

[brad56]

Hi Bad Co, Well I finally have my power steering up & running I am very pleased with the results no wondering on the road & steering wheel returns to Centre.
I found I had to cut & shut the fitting that goes into the pump high pressure fitting attached are a series of photos of the modified fitting.
I have around 8 mm clearance between fitting & steering box which is better than the 3 to 4 mm I had to start with but I am still not happy with that so I will do a mark 2 and put an angle on the JIC section of the fitting that I brazed on to the metric thread section that screws into the pump outlet hopefully I can achieve around 15 mm clearance
The hydraulic hoses cost me $470.00 but I also plumbed in a return filter.
All up cost of the install was $1650.00 no real savings compared to the KLR Kit other than I have a completely reconditioned pump steering box and a return filter which the KLR kit dose not have included in there costs of around $1700.00 plus freight.
Included in my total costs are the recon kit for the steering box purchased from the UK (full seal kit) new seals & speedy sleeve for the pump.
The biggest hold ups where waiting for the seal kit from the UK and the Hydraulic hose & fittings as hear in remote Hervey Bay Queensland the hydraulic company have to order in the parts and that took a while for the parts to arrive seems like they have too much work on, so needles to say I will try another company for my next project

[brad56]

First drawing is of fitting before modifying. Photos 2,3,4 are of modified fitting, photo 5 is return filter mounted behind front bumper bar (have room to move it if I want to fit winch)

[brad56]

Photo 1&2 return filter, Photo 3 suction line fittings, Photo 4 Reservoir, Photo 5 pipe arrangement to top of steering box

[brad56]

Photo 1,2&3 is clearance between high pressure outlet of pump & steering box, photo's4&5 are the re bent metal pipe on the steering box as the high pressure outlet fitting was hitting this pipe

[brad56]

Photo1&2 are high pressure outlet fitting clearance to steering box. Hope these photos are of use to people thinking of doing a PSA install

[Dervish]

All up cost of the install was $1650.00 no real savings compared to the KLR Kit other than I have a completely reconditioned pump steering box and a return filter which the KLR kit dose not have included in there costs of around $1700.00 plus freight.


I should point out that the KLR kit includes a Land Rover factory reco steering box, a brand new pump and that the ZF reservoir in the kit has a filter in it. I believe they'll get you a new steering box as well if you pay the difference in cost to them.

[brad56]

Yes I have to agree the KLR kit is very good value, hardly worth all the Aggravation of sourcing the parts & hoses along with the time it took to do the hole project .
But I did enjoy the process of doing it my self, a since of achievement.

[BadCo.]

Good value? Only if you are lazy or unskilled (or not lazy or unskilled but just don't have the time). All up my setup cost about NZD$700. A lot cheaper then shipping the KLR kit over here.

I did take a few gambles with the pump and steering box and I'm not 100% happy with the hoses. I probably should have had the box reconditioned for an additional $450.

[rar110]

The power steering setup is a lot less technical than it looks. Everything bolts in pretty easy, then call a hose fitter.

Time is a killer for me too. I'm lucky to get an hour uninterrupted.

[LandroverScott]

Good value? Only if you are lazy or unskilled (or not lazy or unskilled but just don't have the time). All up my setup cost about NZD$700. A lot cheaper then shipping the KLR kit over here.

I did take a few gambles with the pump and steering box and I'm not 100% happy with the hoses. I probably should have had the box reconditioned for an additional $450.

Ok so compare apples with apples, $1150 vs $1650, but you need to factor in time to source and time out of action until complete, I am time poor, can't have Vehicle out of action and am 1.5 hours from town so can't get anyone to do hoses - so for me KLR kit was great value and only 3 hours works to fit it myself.

anyway my to bobs worth

[mark2]

+1 for the KLR kit. I saved $$ by using a box I already had and the total installation took less than 2 hours and was 100% hassle free.
I totally understand the sense of achievement in DIY but in this case, it came down to a few hundred $$ and it was a no brainer for me.

Still my best mod to the Perentie (apart from the turbo :twisted:).

[Phil B]

+2 for the KLR kit.
Went together easily and works very well.
Worth the money IMHO.
Regards,

[BadCo.]

Ok so compare apples with apples, $1150 vs $1650, but you need to factor in time to source and time out of action until complete, I am time poor, can't have Vehicle out of action and am 1.5 hours from town so can't get anyone to do hoses - so for me KLR kit was great value and only 3 hours works to fit it myself.

anyway my to bobs worth

Apples with apples would be NZD$1150 vs NZD$1850 + shipping + gst + custom charges + other fees. So easily would be double still.

I'm not discrediting the KLR kit, it loks a great kit, it just isn't for everybody. Each to their own. I'm lucky my truck isn't my daily so I don't need it on the road by Monday. Once again, each to their own.

[Phil B]

Badco
Agree for you it is expensive
I live about 5km from KLR so no postage etc
My problem is I am time poor so a box of all the parts that are guaranteed to work and no running around for me is worth the difference
Regards

[brad56]

Which ever way you look at the cost of power steering on the Perentie it is worth it, the power steering makes the vehicle very easy to drive both around town and on the open road, it is more in line with the vehicles that are available to day .
My next project is to upgrade the front solid disc breaks to vented disc along with the power booster to a D1 power booster and look at the possibilities of fitting vented disc to the rear, if the improvements to the breaks are only 30% I will be a very happy person, as it will at least bring a very capable vehicle up to present day standards in the break area.
So here's hoping

[BadCo.]

My next project is to upgrade the front solid disc breaks to vented disc along with the power booster to a D1 power booster and look at the possibilities of fitting vented disc to the rear, if the improvements to the breaks are only 30% I will be a very happy person, as it will at least bring a very capable vehicle up to present day standards in the break area.
So here's hoping

This is also on my plans. Even though my Safari driving mate was impressed with a stop I had to do the other day.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[dingsy]

Which ever way you look at the cost of power steering on the Perentie it is worth it, the power steering makes the vehicle very easy to drive both around town and on the open road, it is more in line with the vehicles that are available to day . My next project is to upgrade the front solid disc breaks to vented disc along with the power booster to a D1 power booster and look at the possibilities of fitting vented disc to the rear, if the improvements to the breaks are only 30% I will be a very happy person, as it will at least bring a very capable vehicle up to present day standards in the break area. So here's hoping

The power booster on the perentie is out if a falcon and will work for a rear disc upgrade without replacement. Would a disco booster be any better?

[brad56]

The D1 power booster is a double diafram type and should = less foot effort on the peddle.

[dingsy]

Ok cool - keen to hear how it goes/fits.

[brad56]

No doubt it will take a little effort.

[BadCo.]

Getting a little off topic now, but here is a write up of a rear disc conversion with D1 brake booster

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/174490-county-rear-disk-brake-conversion-pics-p-ns.html

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[BadCo.]

A small update.

I had bought a long extension to adjust the play in the box, I managed to get it to a satisfactory point. Buuuut it still wanders on the road, it's just easier to control the wander haha

Theeeen the other day when I was putting the truck in the garage to start the turbo project, I noticed the toe is a mile out on the drivers side wheel! No idea how this happened, I never noticed it without the PAS.

[Bearman]

A small update.

I had bought a long extension to adjust the play in the box, I managed to get it to a satisfactory point. Buuuut it still wanders on the road, it's just easier to control the wander haha

Theeeen the other day when I was putting the truck in the garage to start the turbo project, I noticed the toe is a mile out on the drivers side wheel! No idea how this happened, I never noticed it without the PAS.

Check your track rod for straightness - you may have bowed it a bit offroad having fun!! Having PS makes it easier to bend it.

[BadCo.]

Check your track rod for straightness - you may have bowed it a bit offroad having fun!! Having PS makes it easier to bend it.

Oh yeah that's been bent by army long ago. But the Toe out is in the opposite direction.

[isuzurover]

Oh yeah that's been bent by army long ago. But the Toe out is in the opposite direction.

You must be using a different definition from the rest of us then?

Front
/----\ toe-in
\----/ toe-out
Rear

the track rod is on the rear of the axle so bending the track rod will increase toe out. You can't have excess toe out/in on just one wheel in a landy. It is not like a car with separate track rods.

[BadCo.]

You must be using a different definition from the rest of us then?

Front
/----\ toe-in
\----/ toe-out
Rear

the track rod is on the rear of the axle so bending the track rod will increase toe out. You can't have excess toe out/in on just one wheel in a landy. It is not like a car with separate track rods.

No I was meaning the rod that goes from the pitman arm to the swivel hub is bent, but I guess that would just misalign the wheels to steering wheel?

The track rod you mean looks pretty straight. It was a few weeks ago when I noticed and it was on its way into my garage so didn't get a chance to investigate it further.

[Chris078]

Sorry to hear that, but $400 is crazy money for a SH PAS Box. I bought a new one for about $450! I understand they have gone up a bit, but new ones with drop arm are still GBP325+shipping

NTC1580NOR | RHD 4 Bolt PAS Box complete with bent drop arm (outright) (http://www.paddockspares.com/ntc1580nor-rhd-4-bolt-pas-box-complete-with-bent-drop-arm-outright.html)

For others reading this thread I would stay away from SH PAS boxes, they usually have problems. If you do buy one SH I wouldn't pay more than $200.


amazing what a year can do to a price.
that now works out at $685 plus $120 shipping. still, 800 odd for a new Adwest box to your door is better than the $1250 -$1400 that some Australian suppliers are asking.

[Judo]

Does anyone know the thread on the high pressure outlet of the pump? Flange or o-ring etc?

I need to get a replacement made up from there to my hydraulic winch and it would be great to have the replacement made without taking the old one in. :)

Cheers.

[BadCo.]

Does anyone know the thread on the high pressure outlet of the pump? Flange or o-ring etc?

I need to get a replacement made up from there to my hydraulic winch and it would be great to have the replacement made without taking the old one in. :)

Cheers.

If I was to guess, I would say same as clutch and brake lines.

[123rover50]

Small update, I'm still chasing the wandering. Waiting for some money so I can replace these tires.

Also I have found a leak. It appears to be coming from the flange on the pump inlet. I was never happy with this flange as I had to modify it to get it to fit.

What have people used on their pumps for the high pressure output flange?


No one has answered this question, Where does one get this flange from?
Is it a standard hydraulic fitting or an Isuzu part?
Thanks in anticipation.
Keith