What Tyres A/T for Defender 90

[DefenderRhino]

After just purchasing my first defender I've realised the previous owner has put on M/T and as I do a bit of hwy driving these are defo a no go! So noisy! So wanting some advice for decent A/T tyres, don't need top of the range some that are good at a decent price. Cheers in advance guys.

[YOLO110]

I think go for the Continental Cross Contacts mate.

Standard fitment for a new Defender. Quiet on road, 9/10 off road.

Cheers,

Pete :>)

[DefenderRhino]

I think go for the Continental Cross Contacts mate.

Standard fitment for a new Defender. Quiet on road, 9/10 off road.

Cheers,

Pete :>)

What sort of price do you know Pete?

[tact]

I think go for the Continental Cross Contacts mate.

Standard fitment for a new Defender. Quiet on road, 9/10 off road.

Cheers,

Pete :>)

I second the motion. The Conti Cross Contacts ATs were fitted to my 2013 DC 110 when I bought it new. Love them on the hwy, around the city & burbs, and they do surprisingly well offroad here in Malaysian jungles (mud, sand, rounded river rocks & boulders).

Sorry can't help on pricing in Oz.

[anthonyhamiltonsmith]

After just purchasing my first defender I've realised the previous owner has put on M/T and as I do a bit of hwy driving these are defo a no go! So noisy! So wanting some advice for decent A/T tyres, don't need top of the range some that are good at a decent price. Cheers in advance guys.
I just replaced my original 235/85/16R General ATs with Yokohama Geolandar ATs for $235 each. Great on an off road (in the dry) so far!

[YOLO110]

Linky here mate... circa $ 700 per set of 4!

Continental ContiCrossContact AT Reviews - ProductReview.com.au (http://www.productreview.com.au/p/continental-conticrosscontact-at.html)

Bargain if that is true!

Nice and quiet on road... so much more than the Goodyear Wrangler MT's

[Loubrey]

After just purchasing my first defender I've realised the previous owner has put on M/T and as I do a bit of hwy driving these are defo a no go! So noisy! So wanting some advice for decent A/T tyres, don't need top of the range some that are good at a decent price. Cheers in advance guys.

On a 90 I would go little wider to 265/75/16 in BFGoodridge A/T. They have the exact same rolling diameter as the 235/85/16 standards and they not only enhance the look of your car, but they actually add quite a bit in handling.

A little bit more expensive as they are pretty much top of the range, but the last set of tyres you'll need to buy for at least 80,000km.

Cheers,

Lou

[DefenderRhino]

On a 90 I would go little wider to 265/75/16 in BFGoodridge A/T. They have the exact same rolling diameter as the 235/85/16 standards and they not only enhance the look of your car, but they actually add quite a bit in handling.

A little bit more expensive as they are pretty much top of the range, but the last set of tyres you'll need to buy for at least 80,000km.

Cheers,

Lou

Not sure if that will fit on defender standard rims?

[Loubrey]

They fit OEM alloys perfectly and they have in the past been the standard tyre fitted to 90's.

My first 90 in 1996 was delivered with the 265/75/16 as standard and my current 2010 90 has them fitted as well (not standard obviously). I've also got a set of 7" ZU alloys with BFG KM2 Mud Terrains for occasional use.

Cheers,

Lou

[DefenderRhino]

They fit OEM alloys perfectly and they have in the past been the standard tyre fitted to 90's.

My first 90 in 1996 was delivered with the 265/75/16 as standard and my current 2010 90 has them fitted as well (not standard obviously). I've also got a set of 7" ZU alloys with BFG KM2 Mud Terrains for occasional use.

Cheers,

Lou

You have a pic Lou as I have a 2010 90 as well

[Loubrey]

I've only got a picture handy with my 2010 wearing the 265/75/16 muddies on the ZU Alloys, but the second picture was my 1996 wearing 265/75/16 Desert Duellers on OEM Freestyle Alloys.

Cheers,

Lou

[Blknight.aus]

if the BFG T is a little over your lking for cost then the maxxis 980 is a drp in replacement

[DefenderRhino]

Been quoted $1200 for 5 bfg which is good I think? Also where is the jack tool and lock nut device kept as I can't find it? Can the tyre people still get wheel off? As I'm desperate to change these bloody Tyres!

[YOLO110]

I drove a Defender on the BFG's... as noisy as the Wranglers!

If you want quiet as I recall you asked in your initial post, the Conti's would deffo be the way to go IMHO! Good reports off road too from what I have gathered.

Cheers,

Pete :>)

[Loubrey]

Its all about what you want to use the car for and I won't contest that the BFG's are possibly half a decibel louder than the Conti's or the General Grabbers, but then it is a true 50/50 All-Terrain which the others certainly are not.

The Contis and General Grabbers are at best a 60/40 or even possibly a 70/30 road biased All Terrain. The are very quiet on the black top and perform adequately on dirt road, so I imagine they would be fine on most people's cars. I do however expect my tyres to perform all the way to at least 80,000km and for that you can't beat the BFG.

$1500 for 5 BFG's in 265/75/16 is a very good price as with club discount the best I could do was $309 fitted and balanced per tyre, which would obviously be $1545.00

The jack lives under the passenger seat on new cars, but if a second battery is fitted your guess would be as good as mine. The lock nut key is usually in the cubby box inside a little fake leather tube which contains the plastic widget for pulling the lock nut cap off as well as the actual lock nut key.

Cheers,

Lou

[DefenderRhino]

Its all about what you want to use the car for and I won't contest that the BFG's are possibly half a decibel louder than the Conti's or the General Grabbers, but then it is a true 50/50 All-Terrain which the others certainly are not.

The Contis and General Grabbers are at best a 60/40 or even possibly a 70/30 road biased All Terrain. The are very quiet on the black top and perform adequately on dirt road, so I imagine they would be fine on most people's cars. I do however expect my tyres to perform all the way to at least 80,000km and for that you can't beat the BFG.

$1500 for 5 BFG's in 265/75/16 is a very good price as with club discount the best I could do was $309 fitted and balanced per tyre, which would obviously be $1545.00

The jack lives under the passenger seat on new cars, but if a second battery is fitted your guess would be as good as mine. The lock nut key is usually in the cubby box inside a little fake leather tube which contains the plastic widget for pulling the lock nut cap off as well as the actual lock nut key.

Cheers,

Lou

Hi Lou when you say cubby box where do you mean and it was 1200 for the bfgs so I guess a bargain. Maybe I will go the contis though if everyone are saying they are quieter.

[Loubrey]

The box between the two front seats, or possibly under the front passenger seat.

They can't undo them without the key, so hopefully it's not missing as you would have to get a genuine replacement one from Land Rover...

Cheers,

Lou

[DefenderRhino]

Not good then as I can't find it anywhere! cant find the tyre wrench either which is frustrating!

[Tassie Bob]

Have a look under the passenger seat with the jack - it may be hiding on top of the battery out of sight.

[DefenderRhino]

Have a look under the passenger seat with the jack - it may be hiding on top of the battery out of sight.

Had a good look Bob and not there quite annoyed at this as what if I had got a puncture, a bit crap from the last owner. Are there anywhere I can source tyre wrench from and jack handle as its over $200 from landrover.?

[DefenderRhino]

And there's no other hidden compartments anywhere is there by chance???

[Dopey]

I use a breaker bar and a 27mm impact socket instead of the standard factory wheel wrench.
Check all around the battery for the wheel nut key thingy, also check under the drivers seat in the seat box there, check the seat pockets behind the two front seats, and last but not least, some defender owners put glove boxes in the passengers side dash (there are kits that you can buy and fit) your defender may have one and the wheel nut key may be there?

Also, if it's not anywhere, Karcraft at silverwater, NSW, sell new wheel nut keys, however you need the letter stamped on the wheel nut key for ordering the correct one.

Some dealers when filling out the owners documentation, put what the wheel nut key code is in the paperwork, might do to check and see if it's been done to yours.

Mike.

[DefenderRhino]

Yeh looked under both seats mike have now ordered a new one from landrover at $30 so not too bad just been a waste of my day traveling to Syd and back etc. new jack tools though are so expensive so might just buy a hi lift one and keep in car as it's cheaper option believe it or not! And the tyre wrench need one as well.....

[Loubrey]

Same with the wheel spanner or lug wrench or whatever you call it. Just buy a decent breaker bar and a good quality 27mm socket (like an impact) to go with it as it works a lot better than the factory jobbie.

Hope the dealer stamped the letter code for the lock nut key in your book - same with the radio code if you still have the Land Rover radio...

Good luck!

Cheers,

Lou

[Loubrey]

Yeh looked under both seats mike have now ordered a new one from landrover at $30 so not too bad just been a waste of my day traveling to Syd and back etc. new jack tools though are so expensive so might just buy a hi lift one and keep in car as it's cheaper option believe it or not! And the tyre wrench need one as well.....

Not a good idea to change tyres with a hi-lift - not wanting to be the negative one in the thread, but their instability makes them great for recoveries but bloody dangerous for changing tyres.

Buy a 2 ton bottle jack from Supercheap or one of the motor factors as the articulation makes a body lifts a lot harder work than an axle lift for a tyre change.

Cheers,

Lou

[Michael2]

I can recommend the Micheliin LTX AT2 as a good quiet AT tyre. I have a set on my 110, and they've done 92,000km, including Cape York, the Kimberley, the Tanami, the Pilbara, the Gulf and a lot of outback NSW. So at least 20,000km of gravel / off road, all with full loads.

They have a three ply sidewall, which is one more than most radial ATs. The only punctures have been a nail, and a sidewall, when I got run off the road by hoon on the Gibb River Road.

I had Maxxis ATs before that, which were quiet and grippy, but at 40,000km I felt I had to replace them before doing the Tanami, though they would have been fine for HWY use.

The Michelins are $300ea, but given you'll get 100,000km out of them, they work out to be better value for money.

[AndyG]

Not a good idea to change tyres with a hi-lift - not wanting to be the negative one in the thread, but their instability makes them great for recoveries but bloody dangerous for changing tyres.

Buy a 2 ton bottle jack from Supercheap or one of the motor factors as the articulation makes a body lifts a lot harder work than an axle lift for a tyre change.

Cheers,

Lou

Someone correct me, but i understand when changing a tyre on a Defender, CDL locked, 1st Low, and use the wheel chock, as the hand brake is on the prop shaft and may not hold 100%. Me, im going to make some extra chocks out of 100mm * 100 mm pine.

And it is worthwhile getting your EKA code from the Dealer, just in case your immobilized A.H

[Samblers]

I just replaced my 5 locking wheel nuts with regular ones. The lock nut tool is made out of butter and i didnt want to get stranded in the boonies with a puncture one day, unable to remove the wheel.

Something else to consider

[PAT303]

Can I just add regarding wheel nuts,the reason people need breaker bars,bits of pipe and split the locking nut tool is because your are tightening the nuts too tight and you aren't using anti-seize.The reason LR have made the original spanner very short is so you can't over tighten the nuts,the reason LR mags do not tighten onto the mag but the hub is to stop people splitting the mag from over tightening,buy yourselves a cheap torque wrench,they are accurate enough for the job and do the nuts up to 100Nm and address the problem,at 100Nm with a smear of anti seize you should be able to remove the nuts with the original spanner without bending it and without stretching the studs. Pat

[Dopey]

Can I just add regarding wheel nuts,the reason people need breaker bars,bits of pipe and split the locking nut tool is because your are tightening the nuts too tight and you aren't using anti-seize.The reason LR have made the original spanner very short is so you can't over tighten the nuts,the reason LR mags do not tighten onto the mag but the hub is to stop people splitting the mag from over tightening,buy yourselves a cheap torque wrench,they are accurate enough for the job and do the nuts up to 100Nm and address the problem,at 100Nm with a smear of anti seize you should be able to remove the nuts with the original spanner without bending it and without stretching the studs. Pat

G'day Pat, the reason that I have breaker bars in my 90's is because I have had a bad motorbike accident that buggered up my wrist, shoulder, back, hip, knee, and ankle.
Cannot use the standard length bar....

Also my parents use my 90's sometimes and are both pretty ancient (both over 70) and cannot change the wheels without the breaker bar either.

Also, good comment about the anti seize, but I have seen some issues with using copper grease on the mag wheels......

Mike.

[PAT303]

Thats different if you have an injury,I have had vehicles that needed two blokes hanging off a bar trying to get nuts off,and the owner refusing to pay for replacement studs when they snap off,it's very very important to use anti-seize were the mag sits on the hub,NOT on the face of the hub but the shoulder were the mag locates. Pat

[scarry]

And if anyone has a D3/4,if you tighten the wheel nuts up to tight you will actually stretch the nut,it is very easily done.Or snap a wheel stud.
If you look carefully at a nut that has been stretched,it appears they are made to fail before the stud breaks.
The nuts and studs are no where near as big and strong as a Defender or earlier Disco models.

Torque wrench is the ONLY way to go,with anti seize,or a bit of high temp grease.

And tyres,stick with BFG,just make sure they are LT and you will have no problems

[PAT303]

Using a torque wrench will stop the rotors warping on vehicles that have them against the rim. Pat

[Twhiteho]

I can recommend the Micheliin LTX AT2 as a good quiet AT tyre. I have a set on my 110, and they've done 92,000km, including Cape York, the Kimberley, the Tanami, the Pilbara, the Gulf and a lot of outback NSW. So at least 20,000km of gravel / off road, all with full loads.

They have a three ply sidewall, which is one more than most radial ATs. The only punctures have been a nail, and a sidewall, when I got run off the road by hoon on the Gibb River Road.

I had Maxxis ATs before that, which were quiet and grippy, but at 40,000km I felt I had to replace them before doing the Tanami, though they would have been fine for HWY use.

The Michelins are $300ea, but given you'll get 100,000km out of them, they work out to be better value for money.



I had Michelin LT tires on my old 110 TD5 as well. They went for ever. Can't remember the exact model of tire, but do remember I had the white steel rims on that vehicle (I think maybe off the 130).

As for grip, I never fully tested the tires to the limits but they went everywhere I needed them to. I remember one snowy day driving up to Mt Baw Baw in Vic. They were stopping everyone else (including Japanese imitation Landrovers) and making them put snow chains on. The guy took one look and just let me go through. One of the perks of driving the most capable (looking) 4wd ever.

[spudfan]

I run these on a Puma 110
Reigate Tyres - General Grabber AT from A J S Tyres (http://www.reigate-tyres.co.uk/Tyre/Details/General/Grabber+AT)
I carry a breaker bar to loosen the nuts as they seem to get very tight over time but always use the Land Rover wheel brace to tighten them.

[DefenderRhino]

Anyone used Yokohama geolander a/t? Just found a good deal!

[DefenderRhino]

I just replaced my original 235/85/16R General ATs with Yokohama Geolandar ATs for $235 each. Great on an off road (in the dry) so far!

Are they quiet on hwy Anthony?

[noyakfat]

Did anyone watch the SBS show the other night "Worlds most dangerous roads - Madagascar"???

A journo and actor drove a Ford "Everest" along a 300 km trek of pretty crap roads in Madagascar.

Their chosen stallion was shod in BF Goodrich All Terrains, and they were inexperienced four wheel drivers. The tyres looked like they remained at highway pressure for the duration, and the BF's returned a very positive performance in the majority of situations on that trek.

I had a set of these on an 80-series land cruiser and found them excellent.

Anyone interested in the show can still view it for free on the net via SBS on-demand.

Cheers,

[tact]

Ok since my last post I have had a chance to drive my 110 dual cab with the stock Conti cross contacts in very muddy conditions and am very impressed to say the least.

Malaysia has experienced its worst flooding since the 70's and I volunteered to be part of a 4x4 rescue/relief effort to get emergency supplies and aid into the usually neglected communities of Orang Asli (aborigines) who live apart from towns up in the jungles.

Not saying the Cross Contact ATs are a full replacement for MT tyres. For example hard packed wet greasy/slippery clay (where the AT tyres don't get a chance to dig in) MT tyres are way better and XTs moreso. But where I was driving through 8"-12" deep thick flood deposited mud (the kind where your feet sink in deep and sucks your boots off) the ATs easily went where others using MT and XT tyres went

[tact]

Just adding a pic related to previous post....

Here reversing through about 100m of think mud to get aid supplies in the tub as close as possible to a temp footbridge

[DefenderRhino]

Just adding a pic related to previous post....

Here reversing through about 100m of think mud to get aid supplies in the tub as close as possible to a temp footbridge

That will be fun cleaning haha

[tact]

That will be fun cleaning haha

Heh after 4days of it, for sure. Got my numbers wrong above too. That mud (and most places) was far deeper than 100mm.

In the pic you can see the mud surface was scraped flat in front of my car after reversing over/through it. Minimum ground clearance is 10" so that's more than 250mm thick mud actually.

[DiscoMick]

After buying our Defender I realized the wheel nuts were on too tight to get them off with either the standard wheel brace or a longer handled one I have. Had to get a length of steel pipe and slide it over the handle of the wheel brace to get enough length to undo the nuts. Garages which do them up too tight with rattle guns should be avoided, I reckon.


On tyres, mine has done 60,000 kms on the original General Grabber TRs in 235/85/16 and they still have lots of tread left. Very quiet and grippy on road. Haven't used them much off road yet.