A question on rocksliders

[wbowner]

Hi,
Sorry if this has been asked before.

I have been looking around for steps for my MY14 D4.

Instead of just buying plain steps I would like to incorporate rock sliders.

There seem to be a few on the market. The ones I have been looking at are GOE which would be around $1000 when including a step plus freight costs.
another one is Brads sliders. I believe I need to get the wide ones if I also want a step.

And there are others.

From what I can find is that both GOE and Brads are good products.
Some differences I believe are

Brads
Are steel
Are longer than GOE
Will cause problems with the front mud flaps
Require some trimming of the skirting
Not sure how much the wide ones cost


GOE
Are alloy
shorter than Brads
Require no alterations
Need to buy extra bit to enable a step

I would be interested in any ones experience with these products

Thank in advance
Richard

[Vern]

Have you looked at APT Fabrications ones? Ben is a member on here, great guy, great product:)

[scarry]

APT also do a lot of other bar work powder coating etc in case anyone else is interested I'm getting other work done ad well

[AGRO]

Prospeed ex uk are are another well engineered steel option..also integrated compressor guard. Seach prospeed rock slider in your browser...cost more than others but they look great and do the job

[wbowner]

A question I would like all about these products is what sort of side step are they. It is hard to make out from the pics.

APT seemed OK, so do the ones from the UK.

Richard

[4evershiva]

that's the GOE rock sliders in my D3...

[AGRO]

Most would double as a side step with non slip step tape. Only issue with some is that they are too short laterally. There are dozens of example pictures on the prospeed Flickr link..there are a good set of pictures of an Australian install

[wbowner]

Many thanks for the replies.
I have been hunting around the Internet and there seems to be some the mount to the chassis but most seem to mount via the sill.

Is there a preference or one better than the other. I think all those mentioned above are via the sill.

Another issue I have seen raised is that there may be issues if your car is fitted with side air bags which I believe mine has.


Richard

[DiegotheCat]

also interested so subscribing to thread

[Muskie]

hi Richard, i went with the Geniune Rock sliders from LR. cost me $775 new from the UK ( luckily i work for DHL !). i have a few dents on them from a couple of trips but they fair up ok, and they're airbag compatible!!:D

[wbowner]

hi Richard, i went with the Geniune Rock sliders from LR. cost me $775 new from the UK ( luckily i work for DHL !). i have a few dents on them from a couple of trips but they fair up ok, and they're airbag compatible!!:D

Thanks for that, I wonder what the difference between them are.

Richard

[wbowner]

In the original post I mentioned that the GOE sliders are shorter than say the ones Brad makes or at at least they appear to be in the pics I have seen.

Is there any advantage one way or the other.

Richard

[discotwinturbo]

The factory tubes (sliders) are cosmetic only. I have destroyed both sides. They actually damaged the sills due to their twisting when being destroyed. They are a waste of cash imho. I have a free wrecked set here for anyone who wants to collect them lol.

Goe sliders are the way to go.

Brett.....

[Bytemrk]

I have Brad's sliders and am very happy with them.

Yes they are longer than the GOE ones and require more work around the front mudguard to fit, but they are a fair bit cheaper and VERY solid and well made.

That said, if I was setting up a vehicle from scratch, I'd serious consider the GOE sliders... being alloy they are quite a lot lighter, yet just as strong.

With all the extras on mine, the vehicle is getting pretty heavy, so my next build I would definitely think harder about weight of every item.

This may or may not be an issue in your case...;)

[gghaggis]

yes, my sliders are lighter, and a little shorter (which has some advantages regarding fitting mud flaps). However, their primary design characteristic is that you lose no clearance under the sills. Zero, nada, none.

Cheers,

Gordon

[wbowner]

yes, my sliders are lighter, and a little shorter (which has some advantages regarding fitting mud flaps). However, their primary design characteristic is that you lose no clearance under the sills. Zero, nada, none.

Cheers,

Gordon

Gordon,
Being a bit of a novice on this can I ask this dumb question,
After going to the trouble and expense of installing sliders are you not then leaving an area which is not covered by your sliders open for damage.

Richard

[Bytemrk]

Richard, I'm sure Gordon will be along to give you a more detailed or accurate response, but basically it's only a very short distance directly behind the front wheel.

I would think it would be extremely hard, even if trying intentionally, to find a situation that you could cause damage to a sill so close to the wheel.

[wbowner]

Richard, I'm sure Gordon will be along to give you a more detailed or accurate response, but basically it's only a very short distance directly behind the front wheel.

I would think it would be extremely hard, even if trying intentionally, to find a situation that you could cause damage to a sill so close to the wheel.

Mate if any one could damage their vehicle I could but take your point.
:D


Richard

[Trekki]

Hi Guys

I had Ben at APT Fabrications install his rock sliders on my 2005 D3; neat job, great quality and looks good. See photo; non-slip tape was added after photo.

[captcam68]

Hi guys

I fitted a pair of Terrafirma Sliders I picked up at the KR expo last year.
They look great and act as a side step for getting to the roof rack.
The sliders incorporate a tree protector or whatever you want to call it.
I fitted the supplied non skid tape which lasted 3 minutes as i removed it straight away, I like the idea if hanging onto my calf skin on my legs.
Regardless they are the best accessory yet fitted. They have truly saved my bacon many a time where sill damage was inevitable.
Aulro Lithgow weekend just recently, they were brilliant!
Whoever's you go with do it. I have also fitted all of Gordon's underbody protection and looking at the scrapes on them they two are a must if you want to hit the rough stuff with confidence.

[BSM]

I have the GOE sliders fitted to my D3. They have definitely saved my sills on more than one occasion. There's a noticeable bend now in my right hand stand off bar where I came down hard on a rock. I'd hate to think of the damage that would have done without the sliders.

The only negative thing that I find with the sliders is that sticks often get caught in them and drag along. So far none have levered into a door panel whilst driving. But I can imagine it happening. If there was a plate on the top that acted as a footstep and blocked the opening, it might reduce such stick hookups.

[wbowner]

I have the GOE sliders fitted to my D3. They have definitely saved my sills on more than one occasion. There's a noticeable bend now in my right hand stand off bar where I came down hard on a rock. I'd hate to think of the damage that would have done without the sliders.

The only negative thing that I find with the sliders is that sticks often get caught in them and drag along. So far none have levered into a door panel whilst driving. But I can imagine it happening. If there was a plate on the top that acted as a footstep and blocked the opening, it might reduce such stick hookups.

It would make a better step then as well I guess


Richard

[BSM]

It would make a better step then as well I guess


Richard

Indeed. A bit of aluminium checker-plate and it would be.

[RHS58]

Now that's what I'd like. More to the point what SWMBO would like.
Sliders with eg checker plate step tread.
Gordon, can you do these? Ben?

[aptfab]

Hey guys, we fabricate our own gear so I can definitely add the treadplates to our standard products. Flick me an email sales@aptfabrication.com.au and I'll get it sorted.
Cheers Ben

[Redback]

I have Brad's sliders and am very happy with them.

Yes they are longer than the GOE ones and require more work around the front mudguard to fit, but they are a fair bit cheaper and VERY solid and well made.

That said, if I was setting up a vehicle from scratch, I'd serious consider the GOE sliders... being alloy they are quite a lot lighter, yet just as strong.

With all the extras on mine, the vehicle is getting pretty heavy, so my next build I would definitely think harder about weight of every item.

This may or may not be an issue in your case...;)

I have Brads sliders, I had GOE alloy sliders on before I got Brads sliders(bought second hand from Gordon) but I bent them, couldn"t open the passenger door, couldn't repair them or get them repaired.

So went for Brads sliders, these things are strong and trust me I've come down on them many times, lost a lot paint off them, which reminds me, I need to repaint them:D

I still have the GOE sliders under the house if anyone wants them, they will need repairing though.

Baz.

[gghaggis]

I have Brads sliders, I had GOE alloy sliders on before I got Brads sliders(bought second hand from Gordon) but I bent them, couldn"t open the passenger door, couldn't repair them or get them repaired.

So went for Brads sliders, these things are strong and trust me I've come down on them many times, lost a lot paint off them, which reminds me, I need to repaint them:D

I still have the GOE sliders under the house if anyone wants them, they will need repairing though.

Baz.

Hi Baz - the GOE ones are fairly easy to have repaired, at least in major centres, and the 2013 ~ 2014 ones are a lot stronger. If the slider part isn't damaged, I'll have them. Just PM me.

Cheers,

Gordon

[DiegotheCat]

Hey

Im looking at sliders and love the look of the Terrafirma TF718 with not tree protector

Terrafirma Rock Sliders Land Rover Discovery 3 All Fourx4Spares (http://www.allfourx4.com.au/epages/shop.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/allfourx4/Products/TER-TF817)

They only say they are for the disco 3 but i have a disco 4, the only thing i can think of why this is could be due to the side curtain air bags and maybe they havent tested them for the disco 4.

anyone have any other ideas?

Cheers Ben

[Redback]

Hey

Im looking at sliders and love the look of the Terrafirma TF718 with not tree protector

Terrafirma Rock Sliders Land Rover Discovery 3 All Fourx4Spares (http://www.allfourx4.com.au/epages/shop.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/allfourx4/Products/TER-TF817)

They only say they are for the disco 3 but i have a disco 4, the only thing i can think of why this is could be due to the side curtain air bags and maybe they havent tested them for the disco 4.

anyone have any other ideas?

Cheers Ben

Brad,(Disco3QLD) are pretty much the same, but have outriggers/step on them, he's in Brisbane and are $300 cheaper, shoot him a PM.

Also if the fit the D3, they will fit the D4, there's a slight mod to do with the trim under the front guard on the D4.

Baz.

[gghaggis]

We do the sliders without stand-off bars for considerably cheaper - and they're alloy, so a lot lighter.

Cheers,

Gordon


Hey

Im looking at sliders and love the look of the Terrafirma TF718 with not tree protector

Terrafirma Rock Sliders Land Rover Discovery 3 All Fourx4Spares (http://www.allfourx4.com.au/epages/shop.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/allfourx4/Products/TER-TF817)

They only say they are for the disco 3 but i have a disco 4, the only thing i can think of why this is could be due to the side curtain air bags and maybe they havent tested them for the disco 4.

anyone have any other ideas?

Cheers Ben

[Redback]

We do the sliders without stand-off bars for considerably cheaper - and they're alloy, so a lot lighter.

Cheers,

Gordon

Yeah sorry Gordon, I forgot to mention your sliders without the steps are a lot cheaper also, even with postage from WA.

Baz

[Tombie]

Bens (APT) sliders are fantastic...

Very happy with them (mine are the 1st made :cool: ) and would almost survive an IED :angel:

They protect the full length of the sill, but require no cutting and dont interfere with the front Mud Flaps

[DiegotheCat]

Thanks for the info.

with the alloy sliders are they as strong as the steel Ones? What thickness are they?

Are there stockists in brisbane so I can have a bit of a look.

[NavyDiver]

Good question. Strength is the point if you drop on to them on rock, I have Brads and sort of wish I got the wider option as a step. I sometimes brush my leg getting in on slopes and dust and mud on leg or strides is assured :angel:

Steel is heavy, I have used high lift jack on my sliders several times and really appreciate this lift point over my Bull Bar and lover it over the OEM jack which I have broken anyway.

Brad did not recommend his sliders as a lift point!:D

Love to know if anyone has lifted on Gordon's sliders?

[Redback]

Thanks for the info.

with the alloy sliders are they as strong as the steel Ones? What thickness are they?

Are there stockists in brisbane so I can have a bit of a look.

From the GOE Web page;

Like all our other plates, our rock sliders are made from 6mm alloy and bolt into existing holes
within the car's lower panels. Unlike other designs, they are designed to wrap around the lower sills, without extending and bolting into the chassis rails. This is important, as the chassis and body are separate load-bearing structures, unlike most other 4WD's.

The sliders can be ordered with the optional "stand-off" bars. These 4mm thick tubes, which can also effectively be used as side-steps, extrude 100mm out (or 60mm for the low-profile verrsion) from the underside of the car, protecting the lower sides of the vehicle from side impacts.

Hope this helps,

Baz.

[sctsprin]

I'm in brissie and have the GOE ones, if you want a look?


Thanks for the info.

with the alloy sliders are they as strong as the steel Ones? What thickness are they?

Are there stockists in brisbane so I can have a bit of a look.

[LRD414]

I've just received my GOE sliders and compressor plate. I ordered sliders without stand-off bars but I'm now in two minds; stick with just sliders or change to the with stand-off bar version, which I think will require return and re-order. Doesn't look like bars can be retro-fitted.

Anyway, I'm after opinions regarding relative offroading protection, ie damage from below (slider) versus from the side (stand-off bar) is the question. I'm not too bothered about the sidestep benefit, mainly trying to weigh up the extra cost versus benefit gained. Does anyone have just sliders fitted? I guess so otherwise Gordon wouldn't offer them that way.

I don't expect to be taking the D4 into extreme offroading situations, eg probably not group 2 Lithgow (if I was to get a chance to attend). Nearly every photo I see has stand-off bars but I expect that the sliders alone will be excellent for impacts from below. However, rocks and obstacles that are higher would still impact on the lower door plastic trim area if leaning over enough without stand-off bars.

So it's like insurance in a way but maybe I should just save the extra $600 and put that towards repairs if I am unfortunate enough to receive a side impact. Also, I still want to get the front bash plate and it all adds up.

Any thoughts & experiences appreciated.:confused:

Regards,
Scott

[~Rich~]

I have the narrow sliders, I've planted them on heaps of rocks without any damage to the sills or doors. Worth the $$$, do I wish I had the wider ones?
No I don't these have been perfect for me.
Cheers Rich

[wbowner]

Hi
I just started a new thread re my APT sliders with aluminium cover to make a step

The step is not wide but more than adequate.

I am very happy with the sliders and very happy with the service I received at APT.

Richard

[DiegotheCat]

I've just received my GOE sliders and compressor plate. I ordered sliders without stand-off bars but I'm now in two minds; stick with just sliders or change to the with stand-off bar version, which I think will require return and re-order. Doesn't look like bars can be retro-fitted.

Anyway, I'm after opinions regarding relative offroading protection, ie damage from below (slider) versus from the side (stand-off bar) is the question. I'm not too bothered about the sidestep benefit, mainly trying to weigh up the extra cost versus benefit gained. Does anyone have just sliders fitted? I guess so otherwise Gordon wouldn't offer them that way.

I don't expect to be taking the D4 into extreme offroading situations, eg probably not group 2 Lithgow (if I was to get a chance to attend). Nearly every photo I see has stand-off bars but I expect that the sliders alone will be excellent for impacts from below. However, rocks and obstacles that are higher would still impact on the lower door plastic trim area if leaning over enough without stand-off bars.

So it's like insurance in a way but maybe I should just save the extra $600 and put that towards repairs if I am unfortunate enough to receive a side impact. Also, I still want to get the front bash plate and it all adds up.

Any thoughts & experiences appreciated.:confused:

Regards,
Scott

hey Scott

Im doing the same as you right at this moment, just about to order a full set of plates from goe.

Have you fitted the sliders yet? I cant find any pictures of them fitted, if you have can you take a bunch of pics and post them up so I can make a decision. You help would be appreciated, other than that Im in bris and could come for a look if your not far away?

Cheers Ben

[LRD414]

Ben,

Yes I fitted the GOE sliders and compressor plate the weekend just gone and I'll post up photos as soon as I get a chance at home with daylight. I haven't seen too many photos of the plain version without any step/bar either.

So I fitted the straight sliders without steps/bars that I originally ordered but I was uncertain for awhile. In the end, I've decided to put the extra ~$600 for steps/bars into a front bash plate sometime soon, oh and the GOE drive day that's happening in Brisbane soon:D.

Anyway, the sliders are strong and a good fit. No direct experience in the bush yet but I reckon they'll offer excellent protection against hits from below and slightly sideways. Obviously the addition of steps/bars would offer more protection to the lower doors and it seems most people go for them. And it's difficult (for me at least) to judge what type of situations I'll be facing re damage to door trim or door proper.

If you want a sidestep of some kind (and lots of people do), then the slider with bar is a great way to go. Steps are not a priority for me.

The compressor plate does need some adjustment or modification, see other recent thread:http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/215112-fitting-goe-compressor-guard-after-amk-compressor-install.html (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/215112-fitting-goe-compressor-guard-after-amk-compressor-install.html)
But once I've tweaked that I'm confident that it will offer good protection, which has been attested to by many other members here already.

Cheers,
Scott

[Redback]

I've just received my GOE sliders and compressor plate. I ordered sliders without stand-off bars but I'm now in two minds; stick with just sliders or change to the with stand-off bar version, which I think will require return and re-order. Doesn't look like bars can be retro-fitted.

Anyway, I'm after opinions regarding relative offroading protection, ie damage from below (slider) versus from the side (stand-off bar) is the question. I'm not too bothered about the sidestep benefit, mainly trying to weigh up the extra cost versus benefit gained. Does anyone have just sliders fitted? I guess so otherwise Gordon wouldn't offer them that way.

I don't expect to be taking the D4 into extreme offroading situations, eg probably not group 2 Lithgow (if I was to get a chance to attend). Nearly every photo I see has stand-off bars but I expect that the sliders alone will be excellent for impacts from below. However, rocks and obstacles that are higher would still impact on the lower door plastic trim area if leaning over enough without stand-off bars.

So it's like insurance in a way but maybe I should just save the extra $600 and put that towards repairs if I am unfortunate enough to receive a side impact. Also, I still want to get the front bash plate and it all adds up.

Any thoughts & experiences appreciated.:confused:

Regards,
Scott

To be honest Scott, there wasn't a whole lot of difference in the offroading between the two groups.

The stand off bar can help if the track you're on is tight or you are close to objects such as rocks and tree roots, you don't need to be doing anything extreme to come across these obstacles, something to consider.

Baz.

[LRD414]

Good point Baz re narrow tracks. That's why I found it difficult to decide:(. Anyway, time will tell I guess ... but in any case, the plain sliders are a big improvement on the stock plastic.

Scott

[LRD414]

To be honest Scott, there wasn't a whole lot of difference in the offroading between the two groups.

btw, I hope there's another one organised this year. It looked excellent and I'd be keen to go.

Scott

[LRD414]

Not much to see with the doors shut
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lrd414-albums-goe+plates-picture5345-not-much-see.jpg

Slightly different angle
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lrd414-albums-goe+plates-picture5346-plain-goe-rocksliders.jpg

Drivers door open close up
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lrd414-albums-goe+plates-picture5347-drivers-door-open.jpg

Passenger door open
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lrd414-albums-goe+plates-picture5349-passenger-door-open.jpg

Close up showing integration with compressor plate.
You can also see where I have re-attached the end piece from the original plastic trim.
The cut I made to the plastic is still a bit rough.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/lrd414-albums-goe+plates-picture5348-compressor-plate-integrated-slider.jpg

Shot from underneath also showing compressor plate
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/292.jpg

Regards,
Scott

[l00kin4]

Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere but I've read this and a number of other threads on sliders and couldn't find the answer.

Can anyone provide the actual (or even reasonable approximations of the) weights of the APT / Brad's (Metfit) / GOE sliders for comparison?

Thanks,
David

[Redback]

Apologies if this has been answered elsewhere but I've read this and a number of other threads on sliders and couldn't find the answer.

Can anyone provide the actual (or even reasonable approximations of the) weights of the APT / Brad's (Metfit) / GOE sliders for comparison?

Thanks,
David

Having had both GOE and Brads sliders, Brads are 25kg for the pair, the GOE sliders are approx half that, but they are alloy, not steel, don't know what the APT sliders weigh, I would imagine they would be about the same as Brads, being steel.

Baz.

[l00kin4]

Having had both GOE and Brads sliders, Brads are 25kg for the pair, the GOE sliders are approx half that, but they are alloy, not steel, don't know what the APT sliders weigh, I would imagine they would be about the same as Brads, being steel.

Baz.

Thanks Baz, that's really helpful.

Can I ask which ones you currently have and the rationale behind the choice?

[Redback]

I have Brads sliders on, easier and cheaper to repair basically, there's a small Fab shop in our town who is very reasonably priced and I can do any minor repairs myself if I need too.

Which reminds me, I need to take my sliders off and re-paint them, they're getting a bit shabby.

Baz.

[l00kin4]

Not sure if anyone has done this but I have a GOE compressor guard - I assume (?) the holes will line up but are there any other issues with putting that back on with Brad's sliders?

[Bytemrk]

I've got Brads sliders and a GOE Compressor guard....

No problem with fitting.

[TerryO]

I've got Brads sliders and a GOE Compressor guard....

No problem with fitting.

X2 ... I have Brad's sliders and Gordon's compressor guard, both an invaluable accessory if your inclined to give it a serious go.

I really like Brads stand off set of sliders. I once slid down a slippery bank backwards and that only thing stopping me from righting off the whole side of the D3 was Brad's sliders which stuck out far enough that they hit a rock in the bank and stopped the Disco. I still lost my passengers door mirror and the two doors suffered some dents but without them the damage would have been huge.

By the way the dent in the slider tube was impressive but the sliders are still straight.

[LRD414]

I fitted a set of GOE slider plates back in May without any stand-off bars (refer page 5).
My logic was that I didn't need side steps and wouldn't do "extreme" tracks, therefore mainly wanted protection from below.
However it has always nagged at me, summed up nicely by Baz earlier in this thread ....
"The stand-off bar can help if the track you're on is tight or you are close to objects such as rocks and tree roots, you don't need to be doing anything extreme to come across these obstacles."
So I've upgraded. Ben from APT helped me install a set of his sliders complete with stand-off bars and skid plate.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/612.jpg

The fit is excellent and the install was quite easy by making use of a trolley jack to hold the slider in place. Ben ran a tap through a couple of the mounting holes that were a bit tight from dirt or paint.

The skid plate welded to the underside of the bars serves two functions:
- prevents sticks and branches from hooking up between the bars and door
- protects the rear wheel arch from rocks sprayed up by the front wheels and probably will reduce mud flicked up on the doors a bit too

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/782.jpg

You can still see a gap between the plate and door sill so that any mud/dirt/sand that accumulates on the top side can be just washed out.
Obviously not tested yet in anger but I expect it'll make an already strong product even stronger.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/783.jpg

Plus there is the additional "everyday usefulness" of easier roof access and better stone chip protection.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/1107.jpg


Cheers,
Scott

[The Fizz]

The skid plate welded to the underside of the bars serves two functions:
- prevents sticks and branches from hooking up between the bars and door
- protects the rear wheel arch from rocks sprayed up by the front wheels and probably will reduce mud flicked up on the doors a bit too.

You can still see a gap between the plate and door sill so that any mud/dirt/sand that accumulates on the top side can be just washed out.
Obviously not tested yet in anger but I expect it'll make an already strong product even stronger


Cheers,
Scott

Great post Scott. I few questions..

1. Are the skid plates standard on these sliders, or are they a mod requested by you?

2. What did they end up costing and was there a difference in cost to the standard ones without the skid plates?

Cheers. Mick

[LandyAndy]

Great post Scott. I few questions..

1. Are the skid plates standard on these sliders, or are they a mod requested by you?

2. What did they end up costing and was there a difference in cost to the standard ones without the skid plates?

Cheers. Mick

Can I also add steel or alloy?????
Andrew

[Narangga]

Can I also add steel or alloy?????
Andrew

My guess is steel :D

APT Rock Sliders | Discovery 3 | Discovery 4 - APT Fabrication Custom Land Rover Parts & Accessories (http://aptfabrication.com.au/browse-catalogue/discovery-3-4/product/280-apt-rock-sliders-discovery-3-discovery-4/category_pathway-36:D)

[LRD414]

Everything is steel on my APT sliders including the skid plate, which IIRC is 2.5mm plate. It is a non-standard extra that came from our discussion regarding stick and stone chip protection and Ben's knowledge of making products for comp trucks, which are apparently similar in design.

Also, I know he's done versions with a top plate instead, that's more like a step. I forget who posted it here earlier this year.

The skid plate wouldn't cost much extra but I paid standard price because I've got a couple more things in the pipeline with Ben next year.

Cheers,
Scott

[LRD414]

Also, I know he's done versions with a top plate instead, that's more like a step. I forget who posted it here earlier this year.
It was Richard and Ron in this thread:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/219251-just-got-my-apt-sliders-installed.html

For theirs, the step tread is alloy & riveted on to the stand-off bars.

Cheers,
Scott

[Lukeis]

Hey SCOTT

I know these are ATP sliders, but do you know if they would be more like 60mm or the 100mm protrusion that GOE offers?

[LRD414]

I know these are ATP sliders, but do you know if they would be more like 60mm or the 100mm protrusion that GOE offers?
Luke, it depends on how they are measured but these photos should help.

Cheers,
Scott

The protrusion is 95mm measured from the vertical sill plate or 60mm to inside edge of tube.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/1106.jpg

This does not extend beyond the outer edge of the tyres and only slightly out from the plastic trim at the lower edge of the doors.
This is the best I could do ... difficult to photograph, you get odd angles compared to actually looking.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/771.jpg

[Lukeis]

Legend, thanks Scott.

That's exactly the profile I'm after

[Geary]

Does that set off eliminate the mud flicked up the side of the car off the front wheels? It looks as though another inch or so would be needed??

[LRD414]

Does that set off eliminate the mud flicked up the side of the car off the front wheels? It looks as though another inch or so would be needed??

No not entirely. It's a trade off, we didn't want the sliders out too far like the factory side steps. I think good front mud flaps do more for that problem.

Scott

[Ben_Vapid]

Scott you don't run a GOE compressor guard do you? Wondering how they might line up. I'm going to give Ben at APT a call tomorrow too.

[LRD414]

Scott you don't run a GOE compressor guard do you? Wondering how they might line up.

Yes I do and the fit is good between sliders and plate.

[plusnq]

Yes I do and the fit is good between sliders and plate.



I can confirm that. My plate needed minor angle adjustment but it all fits well with the APT sliders.

[Ben_Vapid]

Just ordered mine from APT with the Scott skid plate add on :thumbsup:

[LRD414]

Scott Skid[emoji769] [emoji767] patent pending
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Actually it was Ben's idea so I may have trouble with the trademark and copyright [emoji51]

[SteveK]

Sorry to raise an old thread. Does anyone know if the stand off bars in this photo is the 6 or the 10cm version ? From GOE website. Gordon seems to be away and not online for emails at the moment, thanks.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/794.jpg

Can you put a jack under the stand off bars or too much rotational cantilever on the bar?

[eddy]

they are the wider ones.....not sure about jacking on them with a hi lift,but an an exhaust jack is ok.

[SteveK]

they are the wider ones.....not sure about jacking on them with a hi lift,but an an exhaust jack is ok.

Thanks Eddy, pretty keen on them. Do you know if they increase the width of the car at all, or not really. I am guessing not, the bottom does sit pretty narrow but thought I would ask in case...

[Disco4Dave]

So many options make it difficult to choose!

Without seeing the various sliders/steps fitted it can be hard to determine which best match my requirements, so the best option is to ask the AULRO brains trust. Hi all!

My requirements, in descending order of priority for our 2016 D4 are:
1. Protection from errant doors and trolleys in car parks, even if that means leaving my car parked at off-road height,
2. Easier access for elderly relatives even at access height, and
3. Sill protection if we ever venture into rough terrain during our travels. Not planned, but you never know.

The LR side steps, and cheap knockoffs, seem like they would cover #1 & #2, but of course not #3.
Most of the available rocksliders seem to address #2 & #3, if fitted with a step plate and maybe wider standoffs, but I can't tell how they might manage #1.

Any suggestions please?

[LRD414]

..... but I can't tell how they might manage #1.
Dave, I tried to capture this in a photo earlier in this thread.
Mine protrude just enough to protect the doors, more so at offroad height.

Cheers,
Scott