Buying a fender 130

[pooky]

Hello o great knowledge people I am looking at buying a early model 130 1994-97 what should I look for other then the oblivious oil leaks, rusty doors or fire wall. Any advice would be great.

[robertroach64]

Pooky


I may be stating the obvious, but the first thing I would seek to do would be to get as much knowledge as I could as to the history of the vehicle ie use, servicing, log books, accidents/repairs. If this information is available, then check that the actual look and test drive of the vehicle seems consistent with this data/information. Of course, there may little or no prior data to help you with this first stage.


If you're OK up to this point, then (depending on your own mechanical ability or that of your friends[who could be well meaning but nonetheless not well informed]) seek to have a reputable Land Rover repair shop give you an assessment. This may cost you say $150, but it could be money well spent. Get that repair shop to give an estimate of repair costs for adverse items they identified, even if you (and/or your friends) plan on doing the repair work. Bear in mind that even an assessment by such a repair shop won't necessarily find all the faults that may be lurking somewhere within the bowels of the vehicle.


If you're still OK at this point, then take off your rose coloured glasses and consider all the reasons for not buying the subject vehicle eg purchase ask is too much, repair items/costs too long and/or expensive (and bear in mind the costs and time, even if you are doing it yourself, will be more than initially anticipated).


A couple of motherhood statements....1.be prepared to walk away if you feel uncomfortable; and 2. buy the best quality vehicle you can afford (rather than a cheapie in poor condition)


If you're still OK (and you know that you can rationalise any purchase if you think hard enough), take the leap of faith and join the 130 fraternity.


Other more technically capable members will be able to give you a more detailed answer to the question you are asking.


Good luck


Rob

[Turtle130]

Hi Pooky
You don't mention whether it will be a crew cab but, if it is, they have a tendency to get overloaded somewhat. So make sure you check the area around the rear of the cab for chassis repairs, cracks, bends and broken tray mounts. Aside from this all the other general TDI issues you will find on this forum. Don't be too scared off by what you read though as a well maintained TDI is a great engine.

[Becnadam]

I'm now in your shoes and considering buying a defender 130 td5. I have unusual circumstances where I don't want an expensive vehicle as where I live the salt air kills cars faster than I can buy them hence the idea of a defender with aluminium panels. The vehicle I'm looking at needs work at least tie rods a power steering issue and a distinctive cough/ lag when the engine is revved I've been told it's probably the ECU loom under the drivers seat has got oil in it??

What I do want is a reliable vehicle (so I'm aware I'll have to spend money on it) and I also want child restraint hooks, Air con also is a must. Just a practical work horse that hopefully won't rust out in the first 12 months. Appreciate any advice as I've never owned a LR before.
Adam

[Pacemaker]

My advise is to get an LR experienced w/shop to check it out.
Otherwise check for rust on the floors in the corners where the floor, tunnel and fire wall meet. There is a double skin steel panel there that rusts. You need to remove the rubber mat or what ever is covering the floor inside the cab.
Check for back lash clunks. They wear drive shafts and flanges. Every tdi defender has some clunk but it shouldnt be too bad. This is also caused by the A frame ball joint at the top of the rear diff. To add to this the output shaft on the gearbox (intermediate shaft) wears where it goes through the gear in the transfer case. This is very common and can be seen by removing the pto cover on the transfer case.
Check for oil leaks at the steering box and that the steering shaft knuckles arent worn.
Check the brakes work well after hard braking or pumping the brakes while driving. The brake boosters crack around the master cylinder bolts. This can be seen quite easily.
Otherwise everything else is standard 4x4 stuff.
Good luck with search. Once you have owned a defender everything else will be a compromise. Even with all its quirks.
Cheers
Michael.

[stealth]

If you are looking to buy a 20 year old vehicle I would look first at the odometer and probably then your bank balance. Expect the latter to go backwards a lot faster than the former goes upwards.