Lettie

[garrywlh]

Hi all,

Work on Hedley has been almost non-existent for months now. :(

I have been distracted by other things, including a classic vehicle from another marque. :angel:

However, this lovely old girl has recently joined our family. I did some research on the REMLR site and found that she served the Australian Army from March 1959 to October 1968 [ARN 111-685 General Service Command Recon. Truck]

I am not intending to restore her to military original, but am certainly going to look after her and keep her on-the-road. She is retiring to gentler pastures for now.

The PO tells me that his neighbour bought her when the Army was finished with her in '68 and looked after her on his Barossa Valley vineyard for 40 years until his death in 2008! The neighbour then took her over and did some refurbishing, including, unfortunately the 2pak paint job. Apparently he and the panel beater didn't know who to ask, so went with 'a Leyland colour' - Holly Green, NOT Bronze Green! Oh well, they tried their best.

A little video... (the slope is steeper than it looks) http://youtu.be/jFUp3waau7I

cheerio,

Garry

btw, I have named her 'Lettie' in honour of legendary 'Spitfire Girl' Eleanor Lettice 'Lettie' Curtis, the first woman to pilot a Lancaster bomber during WWII. Tough old Lettie only died in 2014 at the age of 99!

[harry]

a very nice looking truck.
I wouldn't get upset about the colour, it looks well done and does look good

[Ozdunc]

Coool!!!:cool:

Looks fantastic. Are you going to register her? Does she need work?

[Ozdunc]

And... go on... what was the other marque?

I can't throw stones I've got a Landcruiser :angel:

[garrywlh]

Hi Duncan,

Yes, the aim is to get her registered. I have had to attend to a couple of issues - handbrake, wipers, high-beam switch and faulty starter motor; but once these things are cleared, I am aiming for rego. :D

Lots of other things still to do, naturally, but not RWC issues, more cosmetic etc and I have a hard top that I'm refurbishing for her.

The other vehicle? Well, ok. A glossy black 1967 Chevy Impala RHD (sold new in Oz by GMH). I won't sully these pages with pictures, but I can PM you a few if you like.

Garry

[garrywlh]

And once the hardtop is on, I thought I might get one of these for my next tropical expedition! :spudnikcoinflip:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=89324&stc=1&d=1421111622

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=89325&stc=1&d=1421111718

[Ozdunc]

Ooooh.

Go on then, I'm a sucker for large lumps of sheet metal :D

Happy New Year by the way :D

[garrywlh]

The PO supplied me with with 2 Bearmach aftermarket wiper motors because, he said, the originals "don't work" and he wasn't interested in RWC so never got around to installing them.

Lucky me and lucky Lettie! She is going to proudly sport her original wipers after all.

After hours of cleaning out the filthy, disgusting mess of thick yellow grease and gunk that had accumulated in the gears and motor, making good use of an entire can of RP7, and reassembling them and connecting to the battery (after scratching my ignorant head about positive earth and negative feed), I am absolutely gobsmacked to announce that I now have 2 functioning originals!

For me, this is a small triumph, you understand.

Here are the bits getting a new coat of cold gal before reassembly and refitting to the windscreen. Let's hope they still work after that! ;)

cheerio,

Garry

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=89507&stc=1&d=1421478766

ps. a little video to prove that I am not making it up...

http://youtu.be/v5pPK4et8uI

[Dinty]

Garry, be extra carefull when putting it back together, the small circlip on the long shaft, as it can n does fly if not put in place correctly first time around, replace the circlip up in your house so if it does fly you have a better chance of finding it, cheers mate Dennis

[garrywlh]

LOL, thanks Dennis, and you are right - one of the blessed little things has already bitten me, flying off into another universe, even as I wrapped my hand around it to prevent it doing any such thing! I will never see it again, I think.

I'm going to seek out a replacement soon. I'm hoping a Champion multi-pak of cir-clips might provide an answer?

If not, what have you done? What do you recommend?

Garry

[Dinty]

Gary, PM me your address if you cannot get a replacement, I would have one in the shed, cheers Dennis

[garrywlh]

Hi all,

Lettie's 2.25 petrol engine starts on the first crank. Beautiful.

But the push-button activated starter-motor seems very reluctant to provide that magic crank. About 50% of the time, it doesn't bother until I repeatedly hold in the starter button, close my eyes and offer up various unrepeatable incantations.

The battery charge seems fine.

What are the likely starter motor problems do you think? Hopefully it is something even I could deal with?

Many thanks in advance,

Garry

[garrywlh]

And, new tail lights, wired up and working, make me smile.

Also, I surprised myself by being able to successfully replace the knob that served as an ignition switch in the combination ignition/light switch with a keyed barrel that i had lying around. I now have keyed ignition!

:)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90851&stc=1&d=1424332937

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90850&stc=1&d=1424332937

[jamesnedtaylor]

Some times the starters are a bit dirty inside If you can have a clean up inside and see if this helps or you might be able to pick a good new one up for $200+ hope this helps

[Ozdunc]

Make sure the earth connections from the engine block to the chassis are sound .
Check that your starter solenoid isn't on the way out, if you can short the terminals with a big screwdriver and it starts first time, its the starter button/solenoid rather than the starter motor.

[JDNSW]

Make sure the earth connections from the engine block to the chassis are sound .
Check that your starter solenoid isn't on the way out, if you can short the terminals with a big screwdriver and it starts first time, its the starter button/solenoid rather than the starter motor.

The pre-67 Series Landrovers do not have a starter relay, but a direct push button switch. Otherwise the advice is good.

Most likely problem is

1. Starter. Sticking brushes, easily freed, possibly the inertia engagement is sticking; remove starter, thoroughly clean the spiral the pinion moves on and lubricate with powdered graphite. Do not use any form of oil or grease!

2. Wiring, faulty connection. Connect a test light (better) or meter between the terminal on the starter and the frame of the starter. Operate starter switch - if no light, move the earth to the battery earth terminal. Similarly move connections round to logically find where the problem lies - but note that there may be more than one problem.

John

[Johnno1969]

She's looking great, mate!

[digger]

Garry,
looks great, can I suggest you keep it as stock as possible? (refer REMLR.com)
and therefore would be able to use on ANZAC DAY / VIET VETS DAY etc.

Other than the ignition switch, there are very few changes between these and a stock land rover (again see REMLR, under CR (COMMAND RECONNAISSANCE) )

The colour isnt too bad, remembering that the original CRs were a gloss green, later overpainted olive drab for overseas service. so not all were overpainted.

looks great, well done.
Digger

[garrywlh]

thanks for that, Digger.

I didn't know that about the gloss green paint for CR trucks. I suppose there is a code number for that somewhere on the REMLR forum. Makes me feel much better knowing it may actually be closer to the 'right' colour than I realised.

cheers

yep, I see on the REMLR site: colour code G63 DBG - so deep bronze; but, hey, nice to know the 'gloss' is right anyway!

and, yes, I'd be delighted to make her available for a march or event, but she'd have to be much more up to scratch before she could be offered up for that kind of duty and I'm not sure I'm up for that kind of task.

[jamesnedtaylor]

Cant wait to see her driving round Sunny coast :)

James

[garrywlh]

Went for a bit of a drive on our block this afternoon to test out the rebuilt exhaust and happy to say everything seems good.

However...

Parked on this gentle slope and got out to wander about a bit, only to discover on returning that she wouldn't start. Never happens. Looked under the bonnet, and horrified to see petrol dribbling out of the stromberg carby, thus no fuel to the engine. (Parking on a slope gave it away). So...

1. Straighten up the wheels to roll back and get a better angle on the engine...very heavy under the steering wheel (stationary 7.5" tyres) and feel something strange through the steering wheel - sort of 'let go' a bit. But wheels seem now to be angled straight ahead.

2. Eventually get her started with half throttle (thankfully, cause it's about the rain). Get her back up the driveway to the workshop and the front tyres seem to be skidding/shuddering on the concrete.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=92685&stc=1&d=1428822230

To do #01: deal with leaky carburettor.

To do #02: what the **** is wrong with the front wheels all of a sudden? Have wheels come out of alignment? If so, do what? Has the steering gear been stressed beyond some limit? If so, do what? Is it something else?

Speaking of limits, you may have guessed that mine are fairly narrow. Any advice greatly appreciated.

Garry

[JDNSW]

Is it in four wheel drive? That will have this effect on hard surfaces. Note that if there is windup, it may not actually disengage the front prop shaft until you drive it a few feet backwards or move onto a surface with less grip. The front wheel drive selector fork is spring loaded.

John

[garrywlh]

oh, of course! Thanks John. That used to happen in my little Subaru Brumby in 4WD on a hard surface.

That's simple, if that's what it is. Will check it out and let you know.

[garrywlh]

yep, you're right, John. Must have been stuck in 4WD. Seems fine now. Phew. Thanks again.

Just a question, though on the topic. Is it 'bad' for the system to force the wheels to turn when stationary? Obviously it puts all kinds of strain on the steering system that it isn't really meant to cope with. Or am I being too 'precious'?

I guess for parking and manoeuvring there are times when it is unavoidable. Do I need to watch out for anything in this regard?

Garry

[JDNSW]

yep, you're right, John. Must have been stuck in 4WD. Seems fine now. Phew. Thanks again.

Just a question, though on the topic. Is it 'bad' for the system to force the wheels to turn when stationary? Obviously it puts all kinds of strain on the steering system that it isn't really meant to cope with. Or am I being too 'precious'?

I guess for parking and manoeuvring there are times when it is unavoidable. Do I need to watch out for anything in this regard?

Garry

It is probably not an issue with any Landrovers, as loads on most steering components will be much higher from, for example, shock loading in normal off road driving. The exception would possibly be that if you do a lot of it, it could increase wear on the top bearing on the steering column. And this will be exacerbated by the use of wider than standard tyres and even the use of radial ply tyres - remember that the Series steering was designed for 6.00x16 crossplies, although pragmatically upgraded to accommodate 7.50x16 and radials by the end of Series 3 production. For example, when I had the bottom arm on the relay break on my Series 2 in 1966, I found the replacement was markedly heavier.

John

[garrywlh]

Thanks again, John.

My suspicion is that the sensation I felt while pulling hard over on the steering wheel while stationary was the steering wheel riding over worn splines on the column?

I haven't taken the steering wheel off yet, but if this is the case, would it simply be a matter of repositioning and tightening the wheel to the column? Or can worn splines be refurbished or would it mean the need to replace the inner column?

[jamesnedtaylor]

Hey Gary I have a second hand steering box here if you want anybits (nambour area)


1969 109" 2a named loti

[JDNSW]

Thanks again, John.

My suspicion is that the sensation I felt while pulling hard over on the steering wheel while stationary was the steering wheel riding over worn splines on the column?

I haven't taken the steering wheel off yet, but if this is the case, would it simply be a matter of repositioning and tightening the wheel to the column? Or can worn splines be refurbished or would it mean the need to replace the inner column?

If it is the steering wheel slipping, it is probably the wheel rather than the shaft that has worn splines as the wheel is zinc alloy and the shaft is steel. It may be solved by tightening the clamp bolt.

However, worn splines and movement is more likely to be the splines at either top or bottom of the relay. Get someone to move the wheel to check where it is, taking the wheel centre cover off to check there.

Other possible places for movement only under heavy load are the relay moving and hub swivel lever arms moving, usually because of incorrect installation of the fitted studs. Also possibly tie rod ends mismatched with tie rod (mixing of Series 3 and earlier parts) allowing movement until the threads wear until they are only just gripping.

All of these problems need immediate rectification, as they can lead to total steering failure, which could really spoil your day.

John

[garrywlh]

Lettie has been up on ramps for a couple of weeks while I spend a little bit of time each day removing the filth that has gathered on her underbelly over the decades. She's satisfyingly gleaming underneath now, allowing me to pinpoint the sources of several fluid leaks!

Anyway, she wouldn't start this morning when I went to roll her off, (considerably lighter with great piles of thick black excrement lying all over the ground under her) so I disconnected the battery cables and put on the charger this morning. This afternoon, I removed the charger, fixed the earth cable to the + terminal where it belongs, and started to clamp the other cable on the - terminal, only to see smoke rising from every electrical connection!

What the? Lucky she didn't catch fire!

How can there be a short (if that is what it is) when nothing has been touched since starting charging?

Stumped once again.

[JDNSW]

You've dislodged something while cleaning underneath, I would guess. Bit hard to fathom what though. If it is smoking with nothing switched on, I would look first round the starter switch, and then around the voltage regulator.

On the other hand, you mentioned you swapped the battery connection back to positive earth - it doesn't have an alternator, does it? If it does, that will explain the smoke. Any other polarity sensitive equipment that has been added may have similar effects.

John

[garrywlh]

ok, that sounds probable, John. I could well have dislodged something. Will get back under and look, although I'm not sure I'll be able to spot what is out of place.

You say 'swapped'? I didn't swap the battery polarity. She was + earth before, so, I made sure I returned the earth cable to the + terminal.

[garrywlh]

ok, proceeding at my normal glacial pace, and tiptoeing around because of my superstitious fears of the arcane field of auto-electrics, I have made no progress with Lettie's electrical problem.

You'll recall that, after vigorous degreasing activities under the vehicle, I found starting so difficult (no doubt due to water somewhere) that I ground the battery down. So, disconnected the battery and hooked up the charger for about 6 hours.

[I was careful to note polarity at the time, yet, now I'm wondering if I may have stuffed up that step.]

Went to reconnect battery and clouds of smoke began to emanate from voltage regulator wires and from behind the instrument panel.

It is as if I am shorting out the battery by joining the 2 battery terminals directly to each other!

Does anything appear out of place to you in the photos of the voltage regulator or starter motor connections?

Many thanks,

Garry

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=93404&stc=1&d=1430527545

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=93405&stc=1&d=1430527612

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=93406&stc=1&d=1430527612

[garrywlh]

ok, lots of connecting and disconnecting this and that got me nowhere, I surrendered and called in my local mobile auto-electrician. Once he got past his Anglo-phobia, he set to work and quickly discovered that, months ago, I must have inadvertently screwed the instrument panel back on with a wire jammed between 2 pieces of steel. DOH! This subsequently had been quietly wearing down the insulation and the wires were now earthing out the whole system.
So, absolutely nothing to do with me degreasing - nothing dislodged after all - and nothing to do with me removing, recharging and replacing the battery. Apparently coincidence.
Anyway, so nice to have her running again.
So, now back to the windscreen wipers, and maybe then I can call in my Roadworthy guy.
Garry
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=93528&stc=1&d=1430896542

[JDNSW]

Coincidences happen! And thanks for letting us know what the problem is.

Coincidentally, on Sunday, having tried the heater fan in my 2a for the first time since last winter, I had to track down a similar problem!

John

[garrywlh]

Wish me and Lettie luck.

Now that I've finally got the wipers working and installed (about time!), she is going in for RWC this week (Tuesday). Seriously nervous.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I have Series LR Parts Manual and Operation Manual standing by to answer any tricky questions from a non-LR inspector about what is or isn't 'authentic'; but, other than that, I don't know what else to do to prepare her. After months of tinkering, there are no further issues that I'm aware of, but, hey, I'm not a RWC inspector.

Will keep you posted.

Garry

[crackers]

She looks lovely.
Best of luck with the inspection.

[grey_ghost]

Good luck with the RWC - you must let us know how you get on!!!

Great looking Landy. Well done.

[reachjatt]

I don't see any problem in getting it RWC. After all its environment friendly green car :D
Good luck and well done
Nav

[Cannon]

Good luck :)

[garrywlh]

Lettie is ROAD WORTHY! :beer:

Registration tomorrow. :D

[Ozdunc]

Legend!!!!

See its not that hard. :)

How's Hedley? And how's the Beast?????

[crackers]

Lettie is ROAD WORTHY! :beer:

Registration tomorrow. :D

OMG :eek:

**checks map**
Phew, she's far enough away for me to feel safe on the roads :p

Suddenly going to become a Landy commuter for a bit are we? Got that first bush track all planned out?
Have fun with her mate (and don't get her dirty :angel:)

[rangieman]

Wish me and Lettie luck.

Now that I've finally got the wipers working and installed (about time!), she is going in for RWC this week (Tuesday). Seriously nervous.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95654&stc=1&d=1435364282

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95653&stc=1&d=1435364291

I have Series LR Parts Manual and Operation Manual standing by to answer any tricky questions from a non-LR inspector about what is or isn't 'authentic'; but, other than that, I don't know what else to do to prepare her. After months of tinkering, there are no further issues that I'm aware of, but, hey, I'm not a RWC inspector.

Will keep you posted.

Garry

That is smick :thumbsup:

[garrywlh]

I know that Dinty had to do some fancy manoeuvring when fitting NOS doors to 113-372 - something to do with fine-tuning the location of hinge bolts?

As you can see, Lettie's doors are almost right, but there is a 'bow' in both of them, such that the driver door is very hard to close without operating the handle, and the LHS door rattles annoyingly when I'm driving.

Is the problem with the doors, or their fitment to the body, do you think? The PO has installed non-standard rubber lining and perhaps this is slightly the wrong size?

cheers,

Garry

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=96511&stc=1&d=1437085184

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=96510&stc=1&d=1437085120

[Homestar]

It looks from the pics as though the door is aligned well with the firewall, but then that's giving a big gap at the back - is that gap even, or crooked? Too think a door rubber will cause closing issues. I don't know if the originals are available any more, but not 100% sure.

Can you take a better pic of the panel gap at the back? The sceond pic is a bit hard to make out. There is adjustment on the latches if thats the only problem, but if they are not pulling in far enough and are too tight, then the rubbers may need to go.

Will the rubbers come off easily? Maybe remove them, then adjust the doors and see if you can get them how you want them and get the doors closing right. If you can get that far, then it will answer your question.

[schuy1]

Original type door rubbers are avaible. These are riveted to the door frames. As bacicat obsersed nonstandard ones will be hard to shut and can bend the doors if really bad!
Nice neat swb. Just remember that panal gaps on l/rovers have no set ting! Varies from mild to wild !:D

[garrywlh]

Thanks fellas,

I have already adjusted the latches as much as I think I can, so will remove the rubbers and try that then maybe chase up some new seals and see if that does the trick.

[Ozdunc]

As the old joke goes

"There only 2 man made things that can be seen from space."

"The Great Wall of China and the panel gaps in Land Rovers"

:wasntme:

[ezyrama]

Lettie looks fantastic Garry, Congrat's
Regards Ian

[SG1 Bones]

G'day,
I started to read this post late but well done on Lettie you've done a great job. I love the name too, it's a wonderful choice. I'd love to get a first hand look at her one day. Maybe when I get my SIII finally up and running. I have a SIIa out the back that I'll be getting some spares from, I won't be able to use all of it so if there's any spares I can help you with let me know and I'll try to help.

Nathan.

[garrywlh]

And so the fine tuning continues. Turns out registration is not the end of the journey, just the beginning of a new one.

Over the past weeks I have:
* reset steering box adjustment (and discovered it has an oil leak!) :mad:
* replaced the steering relay oil seal (seems to be holding) :)
* replaced flywheel housing drain plug - leak stopped :)
* checked fluid levels all around - discovered by topping them up that the transfer box leaks :mad: as well as the LH swivel housing :mad:
* checked toe-in (approx. 12mm) :)
* took advice and jacked her up on chassis for a couple of days and expended 2 cans of Inox in whatever spaces I could find between springs (someday, I'll remove them and do them properly)
* loaded in 100kg of ballast and set tyres to 30psi to smooth the ride out a little
* flushed the radiator (yuck) and serviced the air cleaner (good)
* built myself a utility box to replace the middle seat; easily unbolted to allow access to the gearbox access panel :D

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=97781&stc=1&d=1439788590

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=97782&stc=1&d=1439788660

[grey_ghost]

Is that a cup holder?!? :banana: :wasntme:

[garrywlh]

It is indeed a cupholder, Mr Ghost. It is indeed. :D

[Homestar]

GG - does a cup holder trump a clock....? :angel:

[SG1 Bones]

It does in summer. [emoji1]

[Ozdunc]

Garry, try running less pressure in your tyres still, esp if you're not carrying any weight. I'm running 26psi in Bill on 7.50x16 tyres. That seems to work quite well.

[garrywlh]

Thanks Duncan. I'll try that...once I'm back on the road that is.

The left rear wheel has started to lock up on me, so I checked the brake adjustment. No problem there.

In neutral, the right rear wheel turns freely, but there is only about an inch of movement forward and back in the left wheel.

Is this likely to be hub, axle, half shaft or diff?

Many thanks.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=97889&stc=1&d=1439962443

[JDNSW]

Most likely wheel bearing, but confirm by pulling the half axle - you need to pull this anyway to fix the problem. Only other possibilities I can see are a a very unusual diff problem or a broken axle that is jamming.

John

[garrywlh]

Thanks John.

I have removed the half-shaft, and to my untrained eye, it looks to be in perfect shape.

The thing is, if I understand the theory, it must be the diff, as the hub turns nicely on its bearings, yet, when I reinsert the shaft (without fixing it to the hub) and align it with the splines, it will not turn. It seems to be held at the diff end?

Should I still go ahead and remove the hub, or does this sound like a diff problem?

cheers,

Garry

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=97917&stc=1&d=1440031432

[JDNSW]

I still have trouble thinking of what in the diff could cause this effect.

However, if the handbrake is on, or it is in gear or in four wheel drive and the other wheel on the ground, then the shaft will not turn. If it still won't turn with the transfer case in 2wd and either the transfer case or gearbox in neutral and the handbrake off, then the problem must be in the diff.

If the half axle turns freely with it in 2wd and neutral, then it is fair to assume it is the wheel bearing. Look for a cracked or broken roller, or signs of overheating or damage to the cage. Since you have the half axle out there are only the two big nuts and a washer and lockwasher to remove the hub.

John

[garrywlh]

Thanks so much for the excellent advice, as always, John.

I now know why the symptoms I described confused you (and me) so much.

Turns out, the park brake was jammed. I had disengaged it of course, but, as I was about to remove the hub, it occurred to me that I'd better check. Yep, the shoes were hard fast against the drum.

What I don't quite understand is why the other rear wheel was able to turn freely if the park brake was seized. Doesn't the park brake prevent the prop shaft from turning, thus braking both rear wheels?

Anyway, it is good to have been able to withdraw and check the half shafts and adjust the rear brakes in the process.

Now to overhaul the park brake.

Thanks once again, oh mighty Lord Rover. :)

Garry

[crackers]

There's always something else to fix isn't there.

We have a saying in the MG world that if an MG isn't giving you grief, it's merely resting. Maybe the same applies to Landies :cool:

[JDNSW]

I think the problem really is that the newest 2a is over forty years old! I seem to have few problems with the 110, which is only 29 years old, but I found a spring bush needs replacing on the 2a today!

John

[Homestar]

Yep, cars this old require constant attention, but that's all part of the fun. At any given time there are usually several problems with my 101 but unless it becomes a potential show stopper, the time taken to repair it may vary from a few weeks to a few years....:D

[garrywlh]

I am needing to replace a decayed driver's side engine mount. I have a replacement, but I'm not sure of the procedure.

Is there a logical place to take the weight of the right hand side of the engine with a trolley jack and replace the mount? Or is there some other way to achieve this?

Thanks

Garry

[JDNSW]

Assuming you are talking about a Series Landrover, jack under the front middle of the engine, probably best with a block of wood under the timing case just behind the crankshaft pulley.

You don't need to be under the right side of the engine - it is not going to tilt sideways with the front propped and both gearbox mounts still attached. Trying to find something on the right hand side will just put the jack on your way. For that matter, once the weight is lifted off the mount, you can put a wooden wedge under the flywheel housing for security.

John

[Homestar]

I would remove the nuts from both sides then lift the entire engine with the jack. Not sure if that's the right procedure but I think it would work.

[Ozdunc]

If you have access to an engine crane or block and tackle theres a lifting hook at the front of the engine next to the thermostat.

[crackers]

If you have access to an engine crane or block and tackle theres a lifting hook at the front of the engine next to the thermostat.

I've got to get the engine out of Wombat. She's got a 2.25 motor so I'm guessing she should have that hook too, though I don't recall seeing anything. What am I looking for? What about the rear of the motor?
Note: The head isn't bolted on and the studs are missing so I have to work with the block.

Sorry for the hijack.

[JDNSW]

There should be a lifting point at each end - but they are bolted to the head. A piece of flat steel with a slot in it.

John

[garrywlh]

Haven't gotten around to the engine mount yet, but I thought I'd show you Lettie's newly-fitted canvas.
Thanks to the Ho Hars for the great advice and assistance with finding a bloke in Brisbane who sews canvas, and here it is, newly fitted.
Very pleased, as I can now venture out further afield than the next anticipated shower of rain.
I especially enjoy driving with the canopy rolled up in the 'short back and sides' configuration.
Garry

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[jamesnedtaylor]

Haven't gotten around to the engine mount yet, but I thought I'd show you Lettie's newly-fitted canvas.
Thanks to the Ho Hars for the great advice and assistance with finding a bloke in Brisbane who sews canvas, and here it is, newly fitted.
Very pleased, as I can now venture out further afield than the next anticipated shower of rain.
I especially enjoy driving with the canopy rolled up in the 'short back and sides' configuration.
Garry

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99804&stc=1&d=1443231667

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99803&stc=1&d=1443231765

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=99802&stc=1&d=1443231765
Looking good Gary :) btw are you going to do the gearbox/transferbox mounts as well :) i had a few problems when i did mine i couldnt lift it high enough to get the bolts in ps i have an engine crane here nere nambour you can borrow if needs be :) James

[67hardtop]

Gee that looks good. great job.:D

cheers Rod:wasntme: