Considering a New purchase - School me on IIa's

[trip]

Hi all,

Im a landcruiser man, (I have 3 40 series landcruisers from the 70s and early 80s) and I am considering crossing over for my next build.

I have spotted a IIa long wheel base ute, that runs (when petrol is ran into the carb) and doesnt seem to have too bad rust, (some around base of where the doors close on) but none in the roof, floor or anywhere else I saw.

Its nice and cheap, but Im worried about getting in too deep.

Is it possible to figure out what year it is? the serial number is in the photos.


How hard will parts be to get?

Any common problems? or rust areas?


Thanks for any advice, Im new to this so any thing is appreciated.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/803.jpg (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/aaron_ray2/media/LAND%20ROVER/20150112_180307_zps9fbfd0cd.jpg.html)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/804.jpg (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/aaron_ray2/media/LAND%20ROVER/20150112_180323_zps680acdaa.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/805.jpg (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/aaron_ray2/media/LAND%20ROVER/20150112_180317_zps95a03856.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/806.jpg (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/aaron_ray2/media/LAND%20ROVER/20150112_180328_zps2041caab.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/807.jpg (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/aaron_ray2/media/LAND%20ROVER/20150112_181724_zpsd8cc2039.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/808.jpg (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/aaron_ray2/media/LAND%20ROVER/20150112_180418_zpsbfe8bff7.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/809.jpg (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/aaron_ray2/media/LAND%20ROVER/20150112_180610_zpsf6f63414.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/810.jpg (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/aaron_ray2/media/LAND%20ROVER/20150112_180549_zps9af19ea2.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/811.jpg (http://s1290.photobucket.com/user/aaron_ray2/media/LAND%20ROVER/20150112_180433_zpsb00bed72.jpg.html)

[trip]

***Mod edit:
Sorry, 'what's it worth' when looking to sell is a feature only available to subscibers.

[garrywlh]

If the vehicle number on the plate (25304517b) is correct (and you'll need to check the stamp on the chassis above the rear spring hangar of the left rear wheel to tell, because who knows whether that bulkhead originally came with that chassis!) it was a CKD - completely knocked down - 109, built between March '63 - Apr '66, and exported to Australia to be reassembled by Pressed Metal Corp. in Sydney.

cheers,

Garry

[pop058]

The "B" suffix means it was made somewhere between March 63 and April 66. Engine and gearbox number could narrow that down a bit. The carby and brake booster have been changed/added at some stage (this is not necessarily a bad thing) and has series 3 door tops.

Most bits are readily available and generally interchangeable on series Landys. The only issue I see is that they are addictive :D .

Welcome and good luck.

[garrywlh]

Because the body is aluminium alloy, you won't have rust issues there; but it is likely there will be rust in the steel components - chassis, especially rear-cross member, bulkhead, door tops, and perhaps bonnet. If you're planning a complete rebuild, you'll find any and all rust as you go along, but expect it to be there somewhere on a vehicle this old. Are you a competent welder? If so, pretty much any chassis repair will be relatively straightforward. If not, you'll very likely need one!
Pretty much every part and component is available, either 'new old stock' or second-hand or after-market, in Oz and from the UK; but of course it depends on your budget and DIY abilities! Having said that, I was a complete novice when I started out and it has been fun (and not too difficult) to learn pretty much any skill (except welding! :mad:), and this forum is a brilliant resource.

cheers,

Garry

[JDNSW]

As stated, the rust you can expect will be in the steel bits, particularly the firewall (aka bulkhead), chassis, especially the bits the tyres throw mud onto, the base of outriggers and crossmembers, and the bumper attachment points. Also door frames, especially the door tops.

The engine looks fairly standard, but has a non-standard carburettor (likely to be an improvement, but may have you scratching your head looking for parts) - what does it do for an aircleaner? The original aircleaner was a tractor type oil bath one where the brake booster is. Brake booster is an addition, and a better place for it is on the other side under the mudguard, although this mean s long extra lines.

Tail lights are non standard, as is the side opening tailgate with spare. And it also has a lot of additions to the instrument panel. It is likely that the wiring will bear little resemblance to the original!

Overall, though, it looks to be in fairly good shape.

John

[Ozdunc]

It looks to have had some repairs to the rear cross member with the little checker plate patches, so I'd suggest getting underneath with a screw driver and a hammer and be fairly brutal with your prodding.

The chassis is pretty easy to repair if you have some basic welding skillz and some nous.

You should get it cause its got a stereo:)

[pop058]

It looks to have had some repairs to the rear cross member with the little checker plate patches, so I'd suggest getting underneath with a screw driver and a hammer and be fairly brutal with your prodding.

The chassis is pretty easy to repair if you have some basic welding skillz and some nous.

You should get it cause its got a stereo:)

Since when can you hear a stereo in a 2A ? :D

[S3ute]

Since when can you hear a stereo in a 2A ? :D

When it's broken down on the side of the road.................or back at camp with the cricket.

Cheers,

[mick88]

It looks to have been a reasonably well looked after vehicle and although having some modifications, they seem to have been well done.
I expect you will find the cost of parts a lot cheaper than that of the Tojo's you have restored. Possibly a lot more readily available too!
Good luck and enjoy the rebuild if you go ahead with it.


Cheers, Mick.

[Mathernet]

The carb looks like a stromberg. Good carb if it works!
The car looks very salvageable. The trick is to work out what you want it to be and work out how much and how long. This will guide you in where to buy in.
Tough to make a paddock find concourse but if you want to have some cheap(ish) fun and save a Landy this looks good.

[isuzurover]

The CD carb conversion was relatively common in the LROCB at one time. Usually they were mounted on a slight angle, and using a 2.6 carb.

Looks like a good example if the price is right and the chassis and firewall are rust free.