Dumb Shock / air bag questions

[PeterOZ]

ok guys and you will note I have caveated my limited understanding of this topic.

I have a 2007 MY08 D3 SE TDV6, air bag suspension. Has had compressor replaced with the new version under warranty. Thank you dealer.

The D3 now has about 194k km on it and still running on original shocks and airbags.

The airbags still seem to work fine, they will raise and lower the D3 easily.

Do the airbags actually aid in the suspension of the vehicle like a shock absorber would or do they purely serve to raise and lower and the actual shock absorber does the damping?

The vehicle seems to be bouncing and wallowing though as I have had it so long it is hard to compare to what would be normal.

when the D3 was newer you could fly over speed bumps etc. with a hardly any discomfort. Now I find I have to slow and it bounces over.

How would I know if the shocks or bags are stuffed?
I did ask MR Auto at last service and they said the shocks are fine.

I have my doubts.

I saw a few posts a long time back about aftermarket shocks and the problems experienced with the valve failing, think they were Komi’s.

Are there any options out there now?

As this is quite a refined vehicle and the ride very comfortable I don't want to fit shocks that make the car feel like a bloody boy racer

Look forward to some informed replies from the knowledgeable types.

cheers
P

[mowog]

The airbags act as a spring they provide no damping at all

[PeterOZ]

ok so that act like the coils on the non air bag version.

That helps a little. :angel:

How can you test they are ok in terms of the "spring" function? :confused:

[Geedublya]

If they hold the car up they are doing the job.
The bouncing means your dampers/shocks are worn out. At 194K budget for new airbags as well.
My D3 airbags were cracking at the top at that distance.

[Epic pooh]

At 194k just change out the whole strut (shock and airbag complete unit). Mine were done at about 130k or so. (8 years old). One of the best things Ive done to the car as far as bang for buck goes - restored good handling and magic carpet ride. As has been said, bag is equivalent to a coil in a normal car and if it keeps air in then all good - but as has also been said, the rubber cracks and is hard to inspect so if it's a keeper just change the lot would be my 2c worth.

[PeterOZ]

Roger Roger. Will start saving my pennies.

It will be due for new tyres around June ish so will get complete struts in from UK.

Are they VIN dependant? Anyone know correct P/N?

Cheers
P

[Epic pooh]

Easiest way is to send your VIN to a few of the UK suppliers and tell them what you're after - saves a lot of faff. Also order them as two shipments a couple of days apart, saves dosh at the border.

[PeterOZ]

ok was thinking about 2 shippments.

I had a look at duckworths and they look to be non genuine replacements.

I'll keep looking.

[Epic pooh]

Try LRdirect and island4x4 both good suppliers. You can go genuine LR, Delphi or allmakes (in order of cost). I have allmakes which I am satisfied with (Delphi shocks and Dunlop bags).

[Graeme]

Of all the shocks that have been fitted to my D4, being the original 2009 build shocks, genuine LR D3 shocks, Delphi D3 shocks and the latest (modified from 2009) genuine D4 shocks, the current D4s IMO give by far the best ride for both comfort and control. The set of 4 bare shocks ex Duckworths was less than the import duty start limit, however with your vehicle's kms I agree with others that fitting complete assemblies would be most appropriate so will cost a lot more.

[PeterOZ]

Just tried LRDirect who said they can't ship the airbag as they need a special license. What the?
😳

[Epic pooh]

That's odd, they supplied mine without any probs about 2 years ago.

[mitchE39]

I've seen some advertised called Arnott? Are they any good? From memory they have bilstein shocks

2005 D3 TDV6
2004 Rangie TD6

[Graeme]

Just tried LRDirect who said they can't ship the airbag as they need a special license. What the?
��LR Aust wont ship shocks from the UK by air yet some do. Same with oil - some will, some wont incl LR Direct. Actually LR Direct tried to ship diff oil by air but their carrier returned the package.

[rufusking]

Just tried LRDirect who said they can't ship the airbag as they need a special license. What the?
😳

Air bags have an explosive charge inside them. It is the rapid expansion of the explosive compound that inflates the bag. Hence why it requires special permit to ship them.

[Muskie]

They can be imported into AU via Airfreight. Only has to travel on a Freighter and not on a Passenger Aircraft.

:cool:

[Graeme]

Air bags have an explosive charge inside them. One of the differences between airbags and air-springs!

[PeterOZ]

I've had an email back from LR Direct who now say they can ship the entire strut, that is shock and airbag. Just not the airbag itself. :o

Don't ask what the difference is as I have no idea.

Anyway that is good news so just to decide on the brand to get in.

Understand the aftermarket brands are a lot cheaper hopwever others have said that the LR OME brand offers much better ride and handling, albeit at higher price. I'm happy to pay the price for a better ride!

[Epic pooh]

As Graeme has said, they make have taken air bag (spring) to mean airbag (explosive things for safety).

I was going to go genuine but I am hanging out to see if koni can get fsd's to work with d3 and then I'll put them in ... If not when I kill the shocks I'll probably take a leaf from Graeme's experience and go with genuine later model shocks.

[PeterOZ]

Mick,
I think you are correct about which airbag I meant though front and rear shock absorber struts should ahve given them a clue :angel:

Do the later model units fit the D3 2007 model? Got the part numbers or is it again VIN related?

LR Direct said front is not VIN dependant but rears are.

me

[Epic pooh]

No part numbers, still have a few years to see if koni get their act together reliably ... If not then when mine get floaty again I'll have some investigation to do.

[Graeme]

Early D3s (possibly 05/06) are different to later models but from there on the D3 and D4 have the same mounts and are therefore interchangeable. I fitted 2009 D3s to my D4 then Delphi D3s prior to the set of current D4s.

[PeterOZ]

Don't think I will be waitng a few years! :angel:

Mine is pretty floaty and bouncy now so as soon as I can afford the parts & install costs I'll be having them done. Too many other bills at the moment though. :censored:

Sounds like about an $1800 job with parts supplied by me.

[Clammy]

Graeme, is it an easy diy job to do?


Early D3s (possibly 05/06) are different to later models but from there on the D3 and D4 have the same mounts and are therefore interchangeable. I fitted 2009 D3s to my D4 then Delphi D3s prior to the set of current D4s.

[Graeme]

It should be easy enough for anyone accustomed to DIY motor mechanics, taking appropriate steps for working safely on an air-sprung vehicle.

I suggest replacing the rear's first as their access is better for discovering what's involved. Removing front top mount nuts on my 3.0 D4 was rather slow the first time because a heat-shield bracket mounted under 2 of the nuts made it difficult to access one of the nuts, but made a lot easier for subsequent R&R by refitting the bracket under only the closest nut and hooking the other hole over the top of the 2nd stud after the nut was fitted. My ratchet ring spanner was put to good use on these nuts. Care is needed to not kink or twist the air-lines and when refitting its connector be sure that the thread is straight, not cross-threaded. Tighten the bottom bolts once the suspension is at normal height to prevent undue bush distortion.

[PeterOZ]

Do they need a torque setting? Any sort of compression to remove like some struts?

Assume you have to access the top mounting point in the cabin by removing stuff??

[PeterOZ]

Forgot to ask. Wheel alignment required afterwards?

[Graeme]

Access is from behind the wheels. IIRC LR advocate removing the front liner but it takes a long time to remove the wheel-arch flares, headlights and all the screws for very little advantage so I don't remove the liners.

I'm sure the 3 top mount nuts and lower single bolt and nut will have specified torque settings although I didn't bother to track them down.

The air-springs loose all their pressure when the air is released, which I do by slackening the pipe nuts only until air starts to escape then allow it all escape before going further. I remove the 20A suspension fuse before starting.

No alignment is needed because the assemblies are independent of the suspension arm attachments - just don't inadvertently knock and break the height sensor.

Edit: Fitting instructions can be downloaded from the Koni distributor's site through the vehicle selection facility.
http://www.toperformance.com.au/catalogue_fs.html
or more specifically from here http://findershop.koni.com/files/pdf/2100-4069-manual.pdf