2015 130 questions

[Icecream]

Hello,

I'm about to take ownership of my new 130 and I have a couple of questions in regards to suspension upgrades, compressor mounting location and running power to a roof console.

Firstly what is required to lift a 130 by 2" and what issues need to addressed?

Secondly I am wanting install a twin motor arb compressor where diff lock solenoids can be mounted as they will be installed later. Where can people suggest mounting it?

And finally where does the power run from to the interior light? I have a mud UK console to install already

I have a good list of modifications and am looking forward to getting my hands dirty.


Cheers,

The cream

[Loubrey]

Hi Icecream,

Welcome to the forum and particularly the Defender and associated variants section!

As you'll see from my signature, I'm not a 130 driver, but up to the second set of doors they are pretty much the same.

Firstly and opening advice, if this is your first Defender I would hold off on the lift kit at least for a few months. Defenders have spectacular stock ground clearance and I've personally never needed additional lift to go anywhere. A Lift kit adds very little to a Defender as your ground clearance is governed by the diffs and 130's aren't really trialling trucks to begin with. Spend the money on personalising the vehicle to your taste and if you still feel the lift kit necessary say 6 months on, go for it.

2 inch lift should be OK, you would just need to check the front propshaft UJ's on full articulation. Early Pumas (Tdci powered Defenders) had some issues with propshaft UJ grabbing on max articulation, especially right wheel down. You should just need the coils and some longer shocks. The trailing arms and brake lines should be OK with a 2" lift.

That ARB compressor you're talking about is massive and you most probably need to go for an X-Box from Mulgo to free up space under the driver seat. I suppose you can mount it in the cab to the rear, but its unpleasantly noisy. I have the smaller ARB compressor fitted in my battery bay (bespoke for the locker) as my second battery is in an Arkpak and doesn't permanently live in the car.

The interior light runs up the left hand windscreen pillar, but it's not a very powerful current, so if you're talking UHF's and things you'll need to run some better cable which should go up the same route no problem.

Cheers,

Lou

[Cammo]

I largely agree with what Lou is saying; however, being a 130 owner I can see merit in a mild lift, as the ramp over angle can leave a little to be desired. It all depends on what you intend on doing with the truck.
My 2011 130 will get a 2" lift so as I may fit 35s.
I have an ARB twin compressor, but I've not yet mounted it. I intend on mounting it in my canopy. Under the drivers seat is a popular option, but I'm assuming you will have DSC being a 2015 model, and I'm not sure if that system takes up additional room under the seat.

Im interested to see your MUD roof console mounted, as I'm currently trying to decide on a console myself, so please: post lots of photos.

Where abouts in the world are you located?

Most of all - enjoy it.

[Icecream]

Cheers for the quick replies, I'm planning on using the 130 as a daily driver but i am only at home for 1/3 of the year due to my work. However each year I have a 4 or 5 week trip planned so it is being prepared for the purpose of using it for expeditions, this years is a simpson desert crossing and the next one is the victorian high country.

As for compressor mounting ideas, as loubrey suggested I already have an mulgo ex-box ordered from the expedition centre to relocate the electrics. However what is DSC?

I shall post pics of the mud console and the front runner roof rack that I have to fit on the car as soon as I get it on tuesday

Cammo I'm located in brisbane and would be keen to see some other 130s to steal ideas off if anyone lives locally.

Loubrey cheers for the info on the compressor location and wiring info.

[Loubrey]

Dynamic Stability Control... Sort of traction control on sealed roads, especially in the wet. Extra switch top left on the dashboard, but not sure 130's would have it.

Cheers,

Lou

[Loubrey]

Repost...

[Cammo]

With my build, I was trying to do everything that will add weight to the vehicle first. Then you can get your suspension sorted to suit. I have a 3.5 metre roofrack, hannibal double rooftop tent, arb bullbar and 12 000 lb winch. I currently run 285/75R16s (a touch under 33" in the old money) and still have all standard suspension components. Loaded on a trip I want for better rear shocks - other than that its not really that bad. Unfortunately I will have to do suspension before I build my canopy, but if thats the only weight I have to calculate I should be okay.

I'm in newcastle nsw, so if you're ever down this way - feel free to stop in.

Head over to the members rides area and check out:

CAL415s 130
MLDs 130
Nuggets 130, and also his 110 dual cab build

There are definitely more good ones in there, but those three gents have helped me get to where I am, and where I'm heading.

[Icecream]

Cheers for the vehicle info.

Also does anyone know the distance between the roof gutters on a late model puma?

[Turtle130]

Icecream,
I might have missed it, but is it a HCPU or cab chassis model?
If the latter, be very careful on who builds the tray.

[Icecream]

repost

[Icecream]

Cab chassis, the tray is to be built at Buffalo Equipment on the sunshine coast

[MLD]

Hi Icecream, welcome to the 130 club.

The grand daddy of 130's is Brendanm's. Brendan posted a suspension set not long ago. Good reading. Lowranger's 130 set up is worthy of consideration (as is his 110 set up).

The ARB twin compressor is too powerful for the air locker and needs a small tank and regulator. The dedicated ARB locker compressor is an easier solution.

I agree with Cammo that suspension is the icing after you have worked out all other aspects of your set up. Doesn't take long for the weight to add up with a few mods.

The other thing to think about is there are 2" lift kits and there are 2" longer travel kits. Most lift kits utilise a firmer coil and standard length shock so you get lift but no extra meaningful travel. A 2" longer travel kit is a 2" or more longer shock, but that introduces a range of other mods to compensate the extra axle travel.

Not sure if LR remedied the front prop shaft issue in the 2.2 TDCI. Certainly the 2.4 suffered from prop binding. A double carden prop is the usual solution. Budget $700 to $750 for the DC prop. If you are doing it proper also budget for cranked trailing arms to ease the compression of the trailing arm bushes from the change in angle. Then there is the front radius arm change in chamber. Long and short, if you think a lift is merely shocks and coils you are not seeing the whole picture and flow on effect of changing the dynamics of the set up.

If you every find yourself in my neighbourhood I'd be more than happy to point fingers and talk through what I did and the problems I encountered.

Have fun, MLD

[Icecream]

Hi Icecream, welcome to the 130 club.

The grand daddy of 130's is Brendanm's. Brendan posted a suspension set not long ago. Good reading. Lowranger's 130 set up is worthy of consideration (as is his 110 set up).

The ARB twin compressor is too powerful for the air locker and needs a small tank and regulator. The dedicated ARB locker compressor is an easier solution.

I agree with Cammo that suspension is the icing after you have worked out all other aspects of your set up. Doesn't take long for the weight to add up with a few mods.

The other thing to think about is there are 2" lift kits and there are 2" longer travel kits. Most lift kits utilise a firmer coil and standard length shock so you get lift but no extra meaningful travel. A 2" longer travel kit is a 2" or more longer shock, but that introduces a range of other mods to compensate the extra axle travel.

Not sure if LR remedied the front prop shaft issue in the 2.2 TDCI. Certainly the 2.4 suffered from prop binding. A double carden prop is the usual solution. Budget $700 to $750 for the DC prop. If you are doing it proper also budget for cranked trailing arms to ease the compression of the trailing arm bushes from the change in angle. Then there is the front radius arm change in chamber. Long and short, if you think a lift is merely shocks and coils you are not seeing the whole picture and flow on effect of changing the dynamics of the set up.

If you every find yourself in my neighbourhood I'd be more than happy to point fingers and talk through what I did and the problems I encountered.

Have fun, MLD

Cheers for the info on both the suspension and compressor topics, ill be doing some more research but the suspension was to be the last component i was planning on installing.

[Landybitz]

Having run our 130 HCPU from new I have not felt the need to put a 2 inch lift on the truck, Standard set up is fine for most applications, but we all do different things so some needs are different.

Having said that having recently fitted a Land Rover Special Vehicles module coming in a 400plus KG we have fitted Terrafirma standard height Heavy Duty Springs and Commercial Spec HD Shocks to take the extra weight.

I would be hesitant with fitting any suspension upgrades with a Defender 3 year warranty, best to check and get it in writing with the dealer just to cover yourself.

[Cammo]

Landybitz, any chance of some photos of the module? Even if not in this section?

[Turtle130]

Cab chassis, the tray is to be built at Buffalo Equipment on the sunshine coast
OK these are very solid trays. Make sure they are mounting as detailed in the land rover guide (available on here somewhere). Done correctly it will avoid possible chassis buckling and cracking problems when subjected to heavy loads. I found most tray builders were not even aware of the requirements as set out by LR let alone following them.