That damn plug in the front of the head.

[PhilipA]

I did some maintenance today , tightened the front bushes of the rear radius arms as I have a clunk somewhere. Just how are you supposed to tighten them to 170Ft Lbs? A- most torque wrenches don't go that high , and B- my arms don't go that high. I ended up with my new Ryobi 1/2 inch rattle gun. That fixed em. One of my under axle bushes has cracks in it but IMHO it can wait a while. None seem to be delaminated from the centre tube But the failure could be hidden by their design. If it still clunks I will know

I changed the rocker cover gasket as it was leaking out of the "half Moon" at the back, as I hadn't put gasket goo there before. Hell of a job getting the gasket exactly back in place. I ended up super gluing the little bolt tubes onto the new gasket to hold it in place. Worked a treat.

I was idly looking at the front of the head as there was evidence of an oil leak and the damn plug was loose again. I put a new genuine plug in 35Kk ago and the oring is already out of shape. So I fitted 2 of the biggest ALDI o rings in the groove and plastered gasket sealer all over it so it will hold until I get a new Oring. But what a crock 35KK!

Changed the air filter and no dust in the intake, but I hit the MAF with electronic cleaner anyway. Pulled out the MAP and it was very clean with just an oil film I am happy to say, but cleaned it anyway. I slathered Zinc Oxide grease around the surfaces of the air cleaner to seal the air filter although the RYCO made in UK one I had fitted really well.

A bit of grease into the unis, and a push pull , look check of the double Cardan joint, as well as a shot of grease into the lower ball joints through my home made boots and then a well earned rest.

So have a look at your front plug. They don't last very long and can screw your alternator if to far gone.
Regards Philip A

[Pippin]

My new front plug did not last long either, but I cured the problem by a few turns of thread tape over the 'o' ring part of the plug which worked a treat.
Nick

[Graeme]

Don't replace the plug, just put sealant on the o-ring and put it back as you have done.

[alien]

I found a way of using a standard torque wrench for the harmonic balancer a while ago.


This method could be applied to all of those high wrench settings.
You'll need a pen paper and the trusty tape measure to work it out.
Torque Conversions Charts (http://www.dmctools.com/Products/torque_conversion_charts.html)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Interesting Phillip,, I have a clunk somewhere back there,, only happens randomly and not when towing---
JC has stuck his head under and nothing obvious was wrong,,
I was thinking watts,, but now--

[PhilipA]

Interesting Phillip,, I have a clunk somewhere back there,, only happens randomly and not when towing---
JC has stuck his head under and nothing obvious was wrong,,
I was thinking watts,, but now--
My clunk was seemingly under the rear doors and only started on the RHS recently but on the LHS for a while.
Dso far the tighten up seems to have worked with a trip around the block.
Regards Philip A

[SiddersC]

Mine lasted around 12 months, was virtually rattling in the hole after that, I changed th o ring on the plug

[ramblingboy42]

which "front plug" are we talking about?

[BigJon]

Big plastic circular one in the front of the head on a TD5 engine. With the acoustic cover off you can't miss it.

[PhilipA]

I just ordered 5x Viton BA330 Orings from UK for $25 , so I should never run out. LOL.
Regards Philip A

[Tombie]

I just ordered 5x Viton BA330 Orings from UK for $25 , so I should never run out. LOL.
Regards Philip A

BS330 Viton...

Locally would have cost about $6.00 for 5 :cool:

I keep a bag of them in my workshop along side the ones for the fuel Cooler :cool:

Mine are also the American moulded ones, not the Taiwanese version

[PhilipA]

Well it's a pity you didn't post earlier as I googled and ebayed and the uk supplier was cheapest. The last thread on the subject gave a per o ring cost of $7. Maybe you can tell others who may be interested the suppliers name.
Regards Philip A

[bob10]

which "front plug" are we talking about?


The TD5's camshaft front oil seal, consisting of a large plastic plug with an O-ring , a simple push fit. The O-ring gradually becomes squashed & hardens, making it a loose fit. You'll know when it needs replacing, oil will cover the front of the engine. On some occasions, a cable held by 2 clips in front of it is the only thing stopping it falling out completely . Should be no need to bodge it up with all sorts of muck, worst case buy a new plastic plug & genuine O-ring. Bob

[PhilipA]

Should be no need to bodge it up with all sorts of muck, worst case buy a new plastic plug & genuine O-ring. Bob

That is what I did and it lasted only 35KK. So now I will try a new oring.
Regards Philip A

[gusthedog]

BS330 Viton...

Locally would have cost about $6.00 for 5 :cool:

I keep a bag of them in my workshop along side the ones for the fuel Cooler :cool:

Mine are also the American moulded ones, not the Taiwanese version

C'mon Tombie, where did you buy them for that cheap? Cheapest I could find on the net was $20 for two from England.

[gusthedog]

Wait a tick! Foundfive delivered to my door for 12 quid. Not as cheap as tombie's source but cheap enough for me.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IMPERIAL-SIZE-VITON-RUBBER-O-RINGS-CROSS-SECTION-5-33MM-SIZES-BS309-BS345-/370942224004?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item565de12684