Cable path run options - dash to load area - Puma 110

[skidrov]

I've been bitten by the sound system bug, and so am playing with upgrading the audio my car. Yes, I know, it's never going to be great in a Deafener. :) But, I'll try.

I have the head unit & speakers in OK, but am now thinking about adding an active slimline subwoofer in the load area - one of the Fusion ones - to be bracketed edge-on under the sliding window, on the "step". This will give minimum impact to the load area for how I use the car.

To firstly address other options: I can't go to the back of the cubby box; it's used for other things on my car. And, I don't want to go under the second row seats, as that WILL impact the load area as I use it.

So, if I constrain myself to that step location, what's a good cable path? There don't seem to be a lot of options. Land Rover look as if they run the main cables/conduit to the back of the car thru the chassis rail, RHS, and then up into the tail lights/speakers/etc - that's too far a run for what I want.

It looks like I need to go down the front edge of the wheel arch, pop outside under the "skirts" under the doors, and then back in and forward somehow thru the under-seat boxes. Or, to just run cables across the floor, with some sort of conduit over them to protect them - not thrilled by either option.

Do people have some sort of other route they use, when running a cable (for whatever purpose) from dash to load area?

[Loubrey]

Mine's a 90, but the best option I would imagine is to drill and grommet a hole in the front/ top of the wheel box and just seal it up properly afterward. Run the cables from one of the bulkhead grommets back under the chassis to you new hole.

This gives you your option 1 back without having to go all the way to the back.

Cheers,

Lou

[100inch]

Along the roof line is another option. Not as hard as it sounds and you could do it in one go whilst adding sound protection. m

[alien]

I recently ran a 7 core wire from my Mulgo Ex-box to the centre dash panel.
From the dash/radio my route was to cable tie to the internal dash bar,50mm dia.?
It then runs to the left of the dash and is tied to the air vent tube above what would be the fuse panel if LHD.
This avoids all the workings of the heater controls and the air conditioning piping.
From the vent tube I then headed out the grommet with the other electrical loom next to the heater box on the left side.
This is the top of the gearbox tunnel area so consider the heat in this area.
From there I went up into the box.
From there maybe you could run out and along the chassis to follow the main harness.
My concern would be breaking the wire when using the load area if you come out across or up from the floor/rear guard areas.

[skidrov]

Thanks folks, I'll consider these and see what's going to work best - might be a combo, as I suspect I'll need an under-front-seat hi-ampage power run, and also a dash run to get to the head unit.

I was hoping someone would come in with "aha, but didn't you know about the secret cable conduit accessed by pressing the hidden button?!?", but then I always have had reality issues... :p

[Jeff]

I was hoping someone would come in with "aha, but didn't you know about the secret cable conduit accessed by pressing the hidden button?!?", but then I always have had reality issues... :p

We're all sworn to secrecy until after you have done it. :D

Jeff

:rocket:

[DiscoMick]

There are grommets in the battery box under the front passenger seat which mean you could go out and then along the chassis rails and come up. For example, going the opposite way, my UHF comes from a roof gutter mount down the outside of the snorkel, across the engine bay, down and along the chassis rail and then up into the battery box.
I also ran a wire from the passenger front battery box out a grommet, inside the vehicle down and under the rear door sill plate to the load area.
Another option is to use the channels above the rear windows.
Mine already has a cigarette plug just inside the back door on the left, which could be adapted to run a speaker, I guess. I plan to use mine to fit an inside LED light bar with switch above the rear door.
Hope that helps.