Walter the Dormobile

[gromit]

Finally I've found one.......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/254.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VPfTj9)DSCF3383 (https://flic.kr/p/VPfTj9) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

It's a 1965 Series IIa with a Dormobile conversion fitted in 1966.
I tracked it down through the gentlemen who has been maintaining it for many years. It was traded in at Regent motors late 1960's and came overland, possibly to the tip of India then by boat to Australia. Two owners in Australia before me.

I collected it today from the NSW border.
Checked it out last weekend and was blown away by the vehicles stashed on the farm. A DUKW, an amphibious jeep, a blitz, several early military trucks, more early Jeeps, stationary engines, lines of cars, tractors, trailers ......
I thought I was a hoarder until I saw this lot.

It needs some work but drives OK and I know the engine was reconditioned a few years ago and the gearbox rebuilt.

Top is OK just a couple of seams come undone on the canopy, the roof windows had been painted white maybe too much heat buildup when camping outback ?
There is some panel damage to the outer wing and the rear corner on the drivers side. Also the rear window on that side is blanked off.
Seats need recovering (just got a cost for 'elephant hide' covers from Exmoor Trim:o).

Lots to do, including reducing the fleet because SWMBO isn't happy.

Thanks to Phin for advice re price and also Jerryd regarding price and general Dormobile information.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/07/141.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W9yKyS)Dormobile 1 (https://flic.kr/p/W9yKyS) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/255.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WcVMRX)Dormobile 2 (https://flic.kr/p/WcVMRX) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/256.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WcVMWB)Dormobile 4 (https://flic.kr/p/WcVMWB) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/257.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/V88u7A)Dormobile 7 (https://flic.kr/p/V88u7A) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr



There are lots of odd little brackets & fixtures added by the previous owners which I'm trying to work out what they were for. Looks like the curtain rails have been removed in the past and then someone has tried to fit a modern replacement.
Hours of fun but as usual not enough time......


Colin

[phin]

Looks top notch Colin - very jealous!

Exmoor do elephant hide grey with white piping Dormobile seat trim sets. I wonder if they'd just put together a driver's seat for you?

cheers
Phin

[wrinklearthur]

Congratulations on your find and I hope your fleet reduction isn't going to be too painful for you.

[gromit]

Looks top notch Colin - very jealous!

Exmoor do elephant hide grey with white piping Dormobile seat trim sets. I wonder if they'd just put together a driver's seat for you?

cheers
Phin

Phin,

I've asked if they will supply the front seats only.
Full set is GBP 386
Front Seats : Doormobile retrim kit (http://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/store/series-2-3/front-seats2013-07-01-12-43-02/doormobile-retrim-kit-detail.html)


Colin

[rangieman]

Well done Colin a realy nice find:D
So how long before you have to shift out by orders of swmbo:p:angel:

[jerryd]

Glad you made it home okay Colin ;) you've now joined the elite club and have a mobile B+B......... to go where you like and stop where you like :cool: .

As you know most bits are available for the roof although a bit pricey to get them here, the rest will restore. The curtain tracks look standard but with the wrong hooks on them, they should be silent gliss. New sliding hooks are available.
A chap in france makes a good Perspex roof vent or available from Jim in the uk.

A tip for future camp trips, a mattress from a sofa bed fits exactly onto the folded seats giving a good nights sleep.:zzz:

[Jeff]

What a fantastic find. Good luck with it.

Jeff

:rocket:

[JDNSW]

Magnificent!

John

[mick88]

Nice original looking example, excellent find!
I looked over one a few years back.
It may still be there! If anyone is interested I can follow it up.




Cheers, Mick.

[gromit]

Well done Colin a realy nice find:D
So how long before you have to shift out by orders of swmbo:p:angel:

She said at least 1 of the other Land Rovers has to go plus our camper (Coromal PS421) which doesn't get used.
The house roof has to be painted (Colourbond that has the zicalume showing through), a new kitchen and airconditioning.

Bloody expensive Dormobile........


Colin

[garrywlh]

Soooooooooo envious!

What a marvellous find. Well done.

With the jerry can racks on the front, perhaps you could mount a 'Whiskey' and 'Soda' or 'Gin' and 'Tonic' like the Oxford/Cambridge chaps did for their First Overland expedition.

Looking forward to the resto

Garry

[gromit]

Investigating the vehicle yesterday I found this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1301.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W9zgB7)DSCF3431 (https://flic.kr/p/W9zgB7) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


A snorkel ??









No, air conditioning for the passenger footwell.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1302.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VaXgdF)DSCF3432 (https://flic.kr/p/VaXgdF) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


There is also a home made heat shield round the exhaust manifold so in the past the passenger must have complained about the heat !



Colin

[Jeff]

Investigating the vehicle yesterday I found this.

[URL="http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Dormobile/DSCF3431_zpsstjsncih.jpg.html"]There is also a home made heat shield round the exhaust manifold so in the past the passenger must have complained about the heat !



Colin

I know someone who put a 200 TDi snorkel on a 300 TDi to do the same thing. This one is much simpler.

Jeff

:rocket:

[wrinklearthur]

Nar! You got it wrong.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/205.jpg

It's a after market foot washer for those that travel in Land Rovers that don't leak enough. :p
.

[Cobber]

That's fantastic! :BigThumb: deciding whether to do a full restoration or leave it alone (more or less) would be the hardest thing because it looks really good, but wonderfully 'used' all at the same time. I hate the word 'patina' but your Dormobile has it in spades :D


So how long before you have to shift out by orders of swmbo:p:angel:doesn't matter now, he can live in the Dormobile! ;) :D

[gromit]

A few more pictures of Walter.......


Brackets on front & rear corners for caravan jacks to level the vehicle & stop it moving when camped.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1307.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X7xopc)DSCF3446 (https://flic.kr/p/X7xopc) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1308.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W3Bv91)DSCF3445 (https://flic.kr/p/W3Bv91) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

A nice VDO revcounter (that works).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1309.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X4DZZN)DSCF3448 (https://flic.kr/p/X4DZZN) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Something missing here........There was obviously a Smiths heater at some point but the demister vents are still there.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1310.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W66S7p)DSCF3449 (https://flic.kr/p/W66S7p) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

No capstan winch (but on the shopping list) instead something was stored between the dumb irons.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1311.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X4DTgC)DSCF3452 (https://flic.kr/p/X4DTgC) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The opening hatch should be a perspex moulding. At some point it's been replaced with a home made hatch. Brackets over the cab for a roofrack in the past.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1312.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHz1WA)DSCF3451 (https://flic.kr/p/WHz1WA) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The cooker.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1313.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W9yKqA)DSCF3440 (https://flic.kr/p/W9yKqA) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Missing items are the Dormobile sink & table (I've found holes for the table mounting points) and the Smiths heater.
The cooker is missing the grill, the gas jet is there but the rest is missing.

Need to allocate some time between chores around the house to change the oils & fit the silencer & tailpipe I sourced earlier in the week.
Also have all the brake & clutch rubbers ready to go.



Colin

[gromit]

Found time to fit the silencer/tailpipe today.

I noticed when I looked underneath that the exhaust exited at the side of the vehicle but there was a hole in the mudflap where it used to exit. The silencer/tailpipe looked newer that the rest of the system but the silencer had split open.
When I went to buy a replacement I found that suffix A & B use one pipe and suffix C is different, my chassis is suffix C. Unfortunately I could only get the earlier silencer/tailpipe.

After undoing some very rusty bolts I sat them side by side.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1303.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfL8rC)DSCF3474 (https://flic.kr/p/XfL8rC) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

When I offered the new one up the tailpipe went through the hole in the mudflap, fitted easily to the old hangers and the neighbours will be happier when I start it now.


Here is a picture of the under seat tank, looks like it was specially made (no filler pipe at the rear) and has a Series I filler neck welded into place.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1304.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHyLNW)DSCF3467 (https://flic.kr/p/WHyLNW) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The changeover tap looks like a military one.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1305.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHyJQh)DSCF3468 (https://flic.kr/p/WHyJQh) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

There is a neat lockable door that fits under the seat.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1306.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W3Bjdd)DSCF3466 (https://flic.kr/p/W3Bjdd) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Normally on a Dormobile the gas bottles were kept under here so maybe the door was fitted by Dormobile ?

Checked the plugs & replaced the points & condensor. If I get time I'll change the oil tomorrow, did notice it's been fitted with a spin on filter which will make it easier.


Colin

[Bytemrk]

What a fantastic old vehicle Colin.

As others have said.... rather jealous... great find.

[keith73]

What a great find.Well done.

[JDNSW]

The changeover tap is not necessarily military - these were widely available in the 1960s. The underseat tank may possibly be a Series 1 (replacement) tank.

John

[gromit]

The changeover tap is not necessarily military - these were widely available in the 1960s. The underseat tank may possibly be a Series 1 (replacement) tank.

John

John,
The tank is the same shape as the Series 2/3 16 gallon unit but missing the filler tube & vent at the back.


Colin

[JDNSW]

John,
The tank is the same shape as the Series 2/3 16 gallon unit but missing the filler tube & vent at the back.


Colin

Definitely not Series 1 then - and does not seem to be the factory aux tank 552328, but probably an aftermarket one copied from this but extended to the larger size.

John

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The under seat fill tanks are standard on Brit military lightweights and Australian military gunbuggies. They could be purchased as an option through the Land Rover parts chain.

[JDNSW]

The under seat fill tanks are standard on Brit military lightweights and Australian military gunbuggies. They could be purchased as an option through the Land Rover parts chain.

That is the 552328 I referred to, isn't it, not the 16 gallon one in this vehicle? The larger tank is not listed in the optional equipment parts book.

John

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Fairy Nuff!

The 16 gal tanks were introduced on the SIII but many were retrofitted to SIIa. In 1976 Leyland Australia/PMC Enfield did a run of 15 gal underseat fill tanks for the 109 station wagons most if not all went to LROCS members. They were 15 gal because they had a scallop out of the rear top corner to clear the bodywork behind the front seats (rear passenger footwells) the difference between those and this one is that the filler neck and cap was the same as the Mini and Morris 1100.

Perhaps Doormobile had these made up as options for their builds.

[gromit]

Changed the engine, gearbox & transfer box oil.
Levels were OK and oil drained wasn't too bad.

Then went to drain the rear axle (Salisbury) and found a problem with the drain plug. Looks like someone had replaced the drain plug with a cast iron one (like the level plug) which had been grounded and snapped the square head off !
Oil level was OK so left it for the time being, might be an axle out to resolve that one.....

Checked brakes and linings all OK, no weeping cylinders (but I will replace all the rubbers down the track). Brake flexi's cracking and all the rigid pipes very rusty. Swivel hub seals need to be replaced.

The 'to do' list is getting longer.


Colin

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Colin

With Salisbury axle assemblies, it is also worthwhile to check that there is no oil seep marks on the axle tubes where they insert into the casting for the Salisbury diff centre. It is a sign of the tubes working inside the centre housing and of potential/imminent failure.

If there is any evidence of oil it needs to be investigated or the housing/assembly replaced.

Diana

[gromit]

After checking the brakes at the weekend I went down to take a few photos and found a wet patch on the drivers floor !
Master cylinder leaking badly after me testing the brakes at the weekend.......
Bugger, looks like I'l be working on the pedal boxes sooner rather than later.

Colin

[gromit]

Decided to flush the cooling system & replace the corrosion inhibitor.

The coolant looked nice & green and smelt OK but who knows how long it had been in there and what type of coolant it actually was.
Checked the hoses and they were cracking from old age (I know the feeling) so thought it best to change them as well.

Top hose was easy, bottom hose was a PITA because of a bulbous end on the water pump connection. Ended up with the hose end in boiling water & some dishwash liquid to help it slide on. Took several attempts but after a few skinned knuckles and choice words it fitted.
Then came the short hose on the water pump, probably best fitted when the head is lifted. Checked the length of the new one against the old and remembered the old trick fitting Mini bypass hoses. Cut about 1/2" off the length, into boiling water to make it flexible and then slid it up onto the water pump then back down into position.

So new hoses, new hose clamps, new coolant mixed with tankwater and after checking for leaks I put Walter away. Next job is to pull out the pedal boxes and reseal the master cylinders.

The radiator top tank has been repaired and looks as though it has been over pressurised in the past, also it doesn't look the same as my other Series II's but then this one is from the UK.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1598.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W3E8SY)DSCN3415 (https://flic.kr/p/W3E8SY) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1599.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHD9Y9)DSCN3413 (https://flic.kr/p/WHD9Y9) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[gromit]

Decided to remove the pedal boxes so that I could re-seal the brake & clutch master cylinders.
There's a lot of oil under the bonnet, I'm hoping it's not from the current motor, so I had to degrease where the pedal box sits on the bulkhead.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1596.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X7AUEM)DSCN3428 (https://flic.kr/p/X7AUEM) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The steering box is leaking so that's next on the list of jobs to do sooner rather than later. I can also replace the seal where the column fits through the bulkhead because it's decomposed.

The nut on the back of the brake master cylinder was a problem. Pedal box held in a vice, adjustable spanner didn't like the force was applying with a length of water pipe. I went through some tools I brought out from the UK years ago and found a 7/8" King Dick Whitworth spanner which fitted perfectly, some heat applied, water pipe on the spanner handle and finally it gave in.
Annealed the copper washer, cleaned the master cylinder and fitted a set of new rubbers.

Wire brushed the pedal boxes & pedals ready for painting.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1597.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHDpbN)DSCN3430 (https://flic.kr/p/WHDpbN) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Must tidy up that workbench & make some space......

Will re-seal the clutch slave and replace the flexible hose next. When it's mobile again the brake hoses need replacing.


Colin

[gromit]

One of the pivot pins that connects to the master cylinder was badly worn (furthest right) so I made a couple of new ones.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/1345.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfQbHj)DSCN3442 (https://flic.kr/p/XfQbHj) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Just need to make my mind up whether I'm taking the steering column out while there is extra room with the pedal boxes removed. Just means that Walter will be out of action a bit longer......

Colin

[gromit]

Spent yesterday taking out the steering box.
Managed to do the job with the wing (mudguard) in place, fiddley but possible.

My modified Pitman arm puller came in handy and a long breaker bar to undo the nut.

Everything was very oily, looks like the O-ring seal failed some time back so most of the oil fell out, luckily a small amount remained inside to provide a degree of lubrication and rust prevention.
The O-ring broke into pieces when I removed it, not sure if it was the original but it was certainly very old.

I had a spare steering column in stock so I compared the two, Walter's one was no worse than the spare so both got new O-rings and side cover gaskets.
Column & box now repainted, mud shields & steering box cover need de-rusting & painting then a fiddley reassembly job.

I noticed that the swivel hub seals are leaking so looks like it will be a while before Walter is mobile again.


Colin

[gromit]

Had some good weather at the weekend but I went to the Lake Goldsmith (steam) rally Saturday and spent most of Sunday in the garden.

I'm working in an open sided shed so the weather needs to be good for me to be down there working on Walter.

Parts overhauled & painted ready to be re-assembled.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/1627.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W3EoQd)DSCN3463 (https://flic.kr/p/W3EoQd) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I must take out the clutch slave cylinder to re-seal it and replace the flexible hose. Then it will be the rest of the steering component including the relay.


Colin

[Landy Smurf]

That radiator looks similar to the one in my 109" fc.

[gromit]

Pedal boxes & steering column went back in a few weeks ago.
I made a new foam seal where the column goes through the bulkhead because the original had decomposed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/1086.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfQq4N)DSCN3530 (https://flic.kr/p/XfQq4N) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Last week I lifted the floor and transmission tunnel to make overhaul of the clutch slave cylinder easier, also replaced the flexible hose.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/1087.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W3ERZy)DSCN3532 (https://flic.kr/p/W3ERZy) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Today I decided to remove the steering arms to check the track rod ends and replace the boots. Bit of mucking around to get access but eventually removed them.

Unfortunately I found that one of the swivels has badly pitted chrome (I'll take a guess that all the oil has escaped from the swivel hub).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/1088.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X4HVRQ)DSCN3531 (https://flic.kr/p/X4HVRQ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I'll be on the lookout for either a replacement axle or at least a more serviceable swivel.....


Colin

[gromit]

Just managed to cross one item off the shopping list.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1426.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfRX9w)DSCN3552 (https://flic.kr/p/XfRX9w) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

A few parts missing and some alloy welding needed but all the big bits are there.


Colin

[crackers]

What is it? :confused:

[gromit]

What is it? :confused:

It's one of these

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/507.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WE3syU)DSCN2368 (https://flic.kr/p/WE3syU) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr




A capstan winch.


Colin

[crackers]

Thought it might have been - the drum reminded me of one of those things you tie boats up to.

Have fun. Personally, I don't plan to get stuck... but I own a Series 1, not one of those JohnnyComeLatelies :D

[JDNSW]

Just a suggestion, prompted by your pictures, while it is easy to get at. Check the two pins that link the clutch slave cylinder bell crank shaft to the clutch release fork shaft right at the bell housing. These are special hardened pins, and do tend to fail occasionally. Check them for wear, cracking or signs of bending, and that they have not been replaced by inferior pins or ms bolts, which will have a very limited life. They are a real pain to replace with all the floor panels in place!

John

[gromit]

I was going to take the Series I for a drive this morning, instead I decided to remove the steering relay from Walter......should have gone for a drive.......

I'd been soaking it in penetrating oil for some weeks.

The top bolts came out easily, they were facing forward so easy to remove. The bottom bolts came out easy and the support ring removed without too much of a struggle.

Then it came to removing the relay.....

I had a jack underneath pushing on a block of wood, raised the corner of the vehicle off the ground without any sign of movement.
Large screwdriver under one edge (while still on the jack), slight movement. Went and found a pinch bar, under the other side, slight movement.

After about 2 hours with a selection of steel offcuts, pinch bars, jumping up & down, more penetrating oil it was about 1/3 out of the crossmember.
Persevered with some more steel offcuts more jacking and it finally cried enough and slowly emerged from the crossmember.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1424.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X4HMhW)DSCN3557 (https://flic.kr/p/X4HMhW) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I can't believe how much rubbish gets down the hole in the crossmember over time.

Bolts out, endcaps off, covered in rag and used a hide mallet to drift the shaft & bushes out. Turned out it had been filled with grease in the past so at least it wasn't rusty inside.

A couple of new gaskets & seals and a wipe over with an oily rag and it will be ready to go back. Mind you I have to clean out the hole in the crossmember and throw some paint around.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/07/1425.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHDLAw)DSCN3561 (https://flic.kr/p/WHDLAw) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr



Colin

[schuy1]

Yes, it is amazing how it all finds its way in! I have taken 3 days of work to get 1 out! Grease may stop it leaking but does nothing to allow the fibre bushes to do any dampining. The oil works with the fibre. The oil seal surfaces on the shaft need to be perfect, I have used speedie rings on them in the past.
Cheers Scott

[gromit]

The Aeroparts winch I purchased has a few parts missing (that's why it was cheap......).

If anyone has a driveshaft, the driving plate that fits to the crankshaft or an operating lever it would help get the winch working. There is a company in Germany that make the parts but that is a last resort (due to the cost).
Even if someone has the parts I could borrow & measure, that way I could make the parts.

Advert here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/wanted-adverts/223337-aeroparts-winch-parts.html

The steering relay is now ready to re-install, just need to find some better front swivels because the chrome is badly pitted then I can overhaul the front axle.


Colin

[schuy1]

Hmm,
I have same problem with my Aeroparts winch! Maybe when people took them off they had a mass burial at sea for the drive bits! Would account for the scarcity of the bits:(
The german parts are a little exy....... There are a mob in Brissy that does industrial chroming of stuff, Radchrome I think they are. Been meaning to see if they will do swivels... I will reinforce my chair before I ring though, maybe :D
Cheers Scott

[gromit]

Scott,

I think people removed the winch leaving the drive plate on the engine, the driveshaft not being physically 'attached' to anything gets lost in storage.

4 Wheel drives in Melbourne used to get swivels re-chromed but as demand has dropped off it's not economically viable to do pairs here and there. Apparently they used to get them done in batches of 10 or more at a time.

If I had access to a driveshaft I could probably make one, I know someone who would be able to machine the splines.


Colin

[marting]

I got a re-chromed set of swivels through All 4x4 in Newcastle last year. I think it was about $180 exchange. I think that must be for each though can't quite remember. Long since given up trying to keep track of what I am spending!
I think Roverparts in Ballarat also list an exchange option.
Cheers, Martin

[harry]

DLS on eBay sell swivel kits, I found them to be good value, no secondhand dodgy stuff.

[gromit]

I've ordered some parts from the UK which are on their way, some for Walter and some for other projects.

I'm still looking for a replacement front axle with good swivel chrome but no joy.
I did get a lead from a recent show I attended with the Series I so I guess it's follow that up then make a decision to either get mine rechromed or get some **itpart ones.

I'm going to put the steering relay & steering arms back on hopefully this weekend so at least the Dormobile is moving again.

Once the above ground pool is repaired & a new liner fitted I'll have some more spare time.....



Colin

[gromit]

Pool is nearly sorted, we had a water leak in the house (a pipe inside a wall split !) just the septic to sort out, spouting to paint and rear diff bushes to fit to the wife's Territory.

But......I've found an axle with decent swivels !!
It was incomplete and had been stored outside, water ingress meant that both the swivel taper rollers were rusted. The Railco was OK so ended up running a bead of weld round the taper roller outer race and it almost fell out.

Looks like our camper may be sold so I can see some garage space becoming available after Christmas.


Colin

[Lionelgee]

Looks like our camper may be sold so I can see some garage space becoming available after Christmas. Colin

Hello Gromit,

Does tbe "camper" refer to a camper trailer and your not saying goodbye to Walter?

Domestic repairs - things that interfere with valuable Land Rover time. How is the Isuzu 240 project going?

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

Lionel,
Yes it's our Coromal camper trailer that is going. On the plus side it will create space for Walter.

Wallit is back on the road but I'm trying to track down a strange noise from the front end when turning or hitting bumps. About to re-fit the freewheel hubs to see if it stops the noise, if it does I have to check out the front axle. Still need to paint & fit a replacement bonnet plus a bit of interior tidying.

Once Walter is in the garage I need to sort out the front axle and brakes and then order seat covers and some Dormobile parts (sink, badges etc.). Hopefully I'm allowed some of the money from the camper trailer sale........


Colin

[Cliffy]

Are you buying any parts from DM in the UK?
I know where there is a dormobile that could be sold if the right buyer came along.

[gromit]

Are you buying any parts from DM in the UK?
I know where there is a dormobile that could be sold if the right buyer came along.

DM as in Dormobile UK ? If so then yes I have to order some parts from them.

Any pictures of the Dormobile, details of condition etc. ?


Colin

[gromit]

The Caravan sold on Boxing Day, finally some space so that the Dormobile can be fully under cover.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/1034.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHEq7J)DSCN3769 (https://flic.kr/p/WHEq7J) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Because it was in an open sided shed it was covered in dust, bird poo etc. so cleaned it and degreased the engine.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/1035.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfSjeC)DSCN3764 (https://flic.kr/p/XfSjeC) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Started and ran OK but need to overhaul the brakes, swivel hubs etc. Parts about to be ordered from Exmoor, Dormobile UK & The Trim Shack (correct Silent Gliss curtain runners etc.). Now Walter's 'inside' I hope to be able to devote some time to him.......


Colin

[harry]

that's an interesting crankcase ventilation system in the last picture.
is that genuine land rover, or a mod ?

[JDNSW]

that's an interesting crankcase ventilation system in the last picture.
is that genuine land rover, or a mod ?

Looks like a cross between the normal PCV system and the open system, although what the extra stub (blocked) on the intake elbow is, is anyone's guess!

John

[gromit]

I have another inlet elbow connection that also has the two pipes so it must have been standard on something.

Colin

[Homestar]

That's the same as what's on the 6 cylinder, it just runs to other side is all as the carby is opposite the exhaust.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

It could be a port for the anti-smog variants with the air pump. (Yes a Land Rover defeat device, same as used by Holdens, minis etc in the mid 70s)

Will check the manuals tonight.

[gromit]

Over Christmas I ordered seat covers from Exmoor Trim, Silent Gliss curtain rails from The Trim Shack in the UK and a sink, bunk covers plus the correct badges from Dormobile.

Seat covers should be made & leave early Feb, curtain rails arrived today, Dormobile were getting bunk covers made.

Just need to do some mechanical work then strip the seats so that the frames can be stripped & powder coated.


Colin

[dreamin']

Colin

Before powdercoating the seat frames, check how closely the moving parts fit. I recall reading on a UK forum someone who painted their seat frames then needed to sand them back so they would fold properly due to thickness of the paint.

Just a thought

Roger

[gromit]

Colin

Before powdercoating the seat frames, check how closely the moving parts fit. I recall reading on a UK forum someone who painted their seat frames then needed to sand them back so they would fold properly due to thickness of the paint.

Just a thought

Roger

Thanks Roger,

This had crossed my mind but Dormobile had to get them painted so I wonder if they were dipped, sprayed, powder coated ??
I don't want to completely dismantle them so I'll take one apart and see how we go.

Colin

[gromit]

Decided to start stripping the front axle today.
I want to check the brakes, reseal the wheel cylinders, fit replacement swivel hubs & seals as well as check wheel bearings.

Found the flexible brake pipe was cracking (intended to replace this anyway) and one of the brake shoes was sitting out-of-square so has worn lopsided. Time for new shoes.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/1036.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X7CziM)DSCN3788 (https://flic.kr/p/X7CziM) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The swivel hub still contained some (very black) oil so the taper roller bearing may still be usable.
Brake drum had no wear lip so it's either been re-machined or it's relatively new.


Colin

[gromit]

So many bits to check, overhaul & re-paint.

The springs have been fitted with poly bushes, problem is the crush tubes weren't greased so they have rusted & swollen. I had to cut the crush tubes & then get the poly bush out. Fitted conventional bushes in their place.

Swivel chrome wasn't great so salvaged swivels from an ex military axle and will fit those instead.

Parts stripped & painted.



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/999.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W6dKbX)DSCN3799 (https://flic.kr/p/W6dKbX) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/1000.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X7CtcZ)DSCN3801 (https://flic.kr/p/X7CtcZ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/1001.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfTnXh)DSCN3804 (https://flic.kr/p/XfTnXh) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Swivel hub assembled & pre-load set.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/1002.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X7CjFv)DSCN3808 (https://flic.kr/p/X7CjFv) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I've cut the end off a scrap axle, welded it to a piece of plate which is then clamped in the vice. A couple of bolts hold the swivel hub in place and make it easy to set/adjust the pre-load.

Parts arrived from Dormobile today.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/1003.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X7FoAZ)DSCN3812 (https://flic.kr/p/X7FoAZ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Sink, bunk covers, badges, material for repairs etc.

Seat covers have been shipped by Exmoor, now need to strip the front seats ready (the covers are badly damaged, rears are OK'ish). Purchased some hessian the other day to cover the seat springs (as original) and some synthetic wadding for the top surfaces of the seats. Original was cotton based but cannot find it so synthetic it is.....


Colin

[gromit]

Seat covers arrived today.
The 'elephant hide' is a good match to the original.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/998.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfVBM7)DSCN3814 (https://flic.kr/p/XfVBM7) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Have to sell one of the kids to pay for them now !


Colin

[dickyjoe]

Looking great and loving reading your progress on Walter.

[gromit]

Just scored a Fairey overdrive in Bendigo.
Supposedly reconditioned, I'll know more when I strip it down. On the plus side the input end looks unworn.

No operating lever but it was a bargain price. I already have a lever from another overdrive that came on a vehicle purchased some time ago. The input on that one was badly worn and I haven't even bothered to take it apart.

Between the two I should be able to give Walter longer legs......


Colin

[litelandy]

Gday Colin does Walter have the rear seat stowing straps still? If so could you please post some pictures of them? Also I'm very eager see your seat refurb!

Cheers

Glen

[gromit]

Gday Colin does Walter have the rear seat stowing straps still? If so could you please post some pictures of them? Also I'm very eager see your seat refurb!

Cheers

Glen

Glen,

There are a lot of brackets/straps etc. added by previous owners but I couldn't find rear seat stowing straps (didn't know that they could be 'stowed').
OK just found a picture on Terri Ann's website http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/Dormobile/seats.html

If you ask on the Land Rover Classic Campers forum I'm sure someone will provide pictures. http://www.lrcc.org.uk/


Seat refurb may be some time away but I'll post any pictures.

What year/model is yours ?


Colin

[litelandy]

Cheers Colin. I've been through TerriAnn's website and also emailed her directly but I can't get a clear indication of where the straps anchor to.

I've recently acquired the Dormy in Perth. It's a '64 or '65 2A converted in '65. It's in reasonably good nick although the cooker and wardrobes have long been removed.

I can't work out how to post a picture!

Glen

[litelandy]

Hopefully this works!

[gromit]

Glen,
That's the one Cliffy recently sold, there are some picture of it on this forum from some time ago.

Have you joined the Land Rover Classic Camper forum in the UK ? Someone there will have the details I'm sure.


Colin

[litelandy]

Yep that's the one! I'll have check out the Classic Campers forum. Cheers Colin

[jerryd]

This one :)

[litelandy]

That's the one Jerryd. It needs some work but it definitely has potential. Won't be long and I'll be taking it on weekends away!

[gromit]

Had to remove the drivers side wing tonight to get at a brake pipe.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/1004.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHEWUL)DSCN3820 (https://flic.kr/p/WHEWUL) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Is the pipe normally fixed to the battery tray legs ?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/1005.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X4K7Z9)DSCN3821 (https://flic.kr/p/X4K7Z9) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I'm going to replace any rusty brake pipes so the only way to get at this one was removing the wing, I hope the others are a bit easier to get to......

Next the outer wing panel needs to be straightened out.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/1006.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W6dNrV)DSCN3823 (https://flic.kr/p/W6dNrV) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[dickyjoe]

Hi Colin

Yes it's standard. The brake pipe is fastened onto the leg of the battery tray.

Wings off make it heaps easier, especially when getting to the 5 way joiner on the chassis rail.

Richard

[gromit]

Work and family commitments have slowed down work on Walter.

Brake pipe replaced and drivers side of front axle finished.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/946.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfVgqq)DSCN3832 (https://flic.kr/p/XfVgqq) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Managed to panel beat the wing back to shape but there's a section that needs to be shrunk so need to think about how to do it. I don't have oxy so I need to find someone who can work with aluminium.
I found another wing outer panel that looked OK, started to strip it and under about 5 layers of paint there was quite a bit of bog. Must have been like this for years.....

Started work on the rear axle passenger side.

Everything came off OK except for one spring bolt. Someone had fitted poly bushes in the past but I don't think anything was greased !
Took a reciprocating air saw to it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/947.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W3Joz5)DSCN3850 (https://flic.kr/p/W3Joz5) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The bolt head end is still seized into the spring hanger.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/948.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHGKj7)DSCN3853 (https://flic.kr/p/WHGKj7) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Polybushes may be quick to fit but they are a PITA to remove if they are fitted dry.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/949.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X4MS6q)DSCN3959 (https://flic.kr/p/X4MS6q) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Just have to cut the original bush out of the chassis (this wasn't changed to poly bush) and re-fit some standard bushes with some copperslip on the bolts !


Wheel bearings were OK so new seal & re pack with grease, overhauled the brake slave cylinder just need to make up a new pipe to the junction on the axle and replace the flexi.
Once the spring has been repainted & new bushes fitted it will time to assemble, then I can turn Walter around and work on the other side.

Need to look out for someone parting out a LWB station wagon. I need 'B' & 'C' pillars that have seatbelt mountings (must have had them by Series III ?). Otherwise I'll have to improvise something.........


Colin

[JDNSW]

Removing the front wing (mudguard in this country!) makes a lot of things easier. And it is quite easy if you do it more than once in a decade.

For example, I always remove one to take the head off - just makes it easier.

John

[Dinty]

Same here John, I always remove LHS wing to access/remove the head, it also gives a better go @ the welch plugs as well, Colin, I always enjoy your images and mate your garage looks as bad as mine LOL cheers Dennis

[gromit]

mudguard in this country!

OK but I originate from the UK plus all the Land Rover manuals call it a wing.

The other one I've fallen foul of is dynamo, I'm told 'here' it's a 'generator'.

Then if I mention 'nearside' or 'offside' people are really confused.......


Colin

[Lionelgee]

Then if I mention 'nearside' or 'offside' people are really confused....... Colin

Hmmm that got me thinking - nearside equals Kerbside. Offside equals ...? Apart from Driver's side as opposed to passenger's side. What would be the equivalent of the non-Kerbside term? Not including the term "offside" that is!

Kind Regards
Lionel

[gromit]

Lionel,

Have a read of this :-

Near Side (http://www.infoplease.com/dictionary/brewers/near-side.html)


Colin

[gromit]

After chopping up some branches that fell in the storm last night then running one of the boys to Venturers I managed some time on Walter.

Finished off the offside rear (drivers side).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/950.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W3Jjd9)DSCN3870 (https://flic.kr/p/W3Jjd9) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/951.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHGP8j)DSCN3872 (https://flic.kr/p/WHGP8j) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Made a new brake pipe from the T-connector to the backplate. Later I'll replace the flexi and also re-make the line from front to rear.

Next weekend I'll get it started and turn it around so that I can work on the other side.
Once that's done I can re-cover the seats and look into installing seatbelts. Most of the mountings look straightforward (advert in the Wanted section of Markets) but at the moment I'm not sure how to fit the upper mount for the front belts, where to mount the front inertia reels and I may have to fabricate the lower mount for the rear belts.


Colin

[jerryd]

Hi Colin, I fitted Defender seat belts in mine, the dormobile was exactly the same as the defender so they bolted straight in. Just a bit tricky when folding seats into the bed position.

[dickyjoe]

Ah love this country! We use a bit from the UK and a bit from the USA.

Hoods and bonnets, trunks and boots, wings fenders and mudguards :-)

[gromit]

Hi Colin, I fitted Defender seat belts in mine, the dormobile was exactly the same as the defender so they bolted straight in. Just a bit tricky when folding seats into the bed position.

Jerry,
Did your Series III have seat belt mounting points already fitted ?

The problem with my IIa is that there are no mounting points to start with. I already have the seatbelts from Paddocks, just have to figure out how I'm going to install them.

The only concerns at the moment are the top mount for the front seats (in the B pillar) and the bottom mounts by the doors for the second row.
The second row mounts for the Defender go into the angled section of the floor which will be easy to replicate.
Someone has drilled a hole straight through the B pillars in the IIa at roughly the correct height, there is one belt still mounted so I'll have to see if there is an anti-crush spacer in-between.


Colin

[gromit]

Started stripping down the passenger side hub.
Brake shoes OK, wheel cylinders will need kits through them, brake flexi and the rigid brake pipe need replacing.

Drained semi liquid grease from the swivel hub but when taken apart found that the lack of regular use had meant that the casing for the Railco bush and also the pin had rusted badly. With new seals it will be filled with EP90 so hopefully it will get splashed around to stop any future rusting.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/1002.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W3Kyuo)DSCN3949 (https://flic.kr/p/W3Kyuo) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/1003.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X4MYeh)DSCN3952 (https://flic.kr/p/X4MYeh) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


The swivel hub has pitted chrome but I have a good replacement and the Railco bush & pin are OK.

Time to start paint removal & de-rusting then everything will need a repaint.



Colin

[chazza]

Unfortunately I found that one of the swivels has badly pitted chrome (I'll take a guess that all the oil has escaped from the swivel hub).

I'll be on the lookout for either a replacement axle or at least a more serviceable swivel.....

Colin

Nice car Colin!

Why don't you soak the swivel in molasses until the rust has gone and then fill the pits with an epoxy filler.

I did this on my S3 2 or 3 years ago and no oil has leaked since :)

Cheers Charlie

[gromit]

Charlie,
Haven't seen you on the forum much recently......

Fortunately I picked up a s/h axle a while ago with better swivels. Also collected some parts a while back and there was one swivel housing complete and the chrome looks perfect.

I used epoxy resin on my Series I and Wallit (Series III) but there were only a few pits. This one is quite bad........

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/1001.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X7G8pz)DSCN3957 (https://flic.kr/p/X7G8pz) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Colin

[chazza]

OK but I originate from the UK plus all the Land Rover manuals call it a wing.

The other one I've fallen foul of is dynamo, I'm told 'here' it's a 'generator'.


Colin

I call it a wing as well.

When I was young, it was pointed out to me that both alternators and dynamos are generators of electricity; so I call it a dynamo as well. :D

How many people call a damper the incorrect name of shock absorber?

Top work Colin! I only realised this morning, that I had read only half of this thread yesterday when I posted about the swivel - apologies for wasting your time,

Cheers Charlie

[Dark61]

just a quickie to say thanks for the very clear and detailed photo's in this thread. A picture paints a thousand words.
cheers,
D

[gromit]

The front swivel hub came off without any problems but then it came to removing the leaf spring.......
I'm really beginning to dislike poly bushes, not that I was ever a fan of them.

When they were fitted no grease was used so the bolts seize in the anti-crush tube and the tube rusts and doesn't want to come out of the poly bush.
The ones fitted are a single piece with a very small flange, looks like the flange gets squished down to force it into place then the anti-crush tube is fitted.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/1004.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W3KnjC)DSCN3960 (https://flic.kr/p/W3KnjC) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Managed to get the spring off and then had to drift the bolt out of one of the anti-crush tubes.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/949.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X4MS6q)DSCN3959 (https://flic.kr/p/X4MS6q) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

The hole in the chassis was rusted internally so I used a piece of dowel with a cut in one end and some coarse emery in the cut. With this in a drill I managed to clean the rust away.

Installing the conventional bush.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/1005.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XjAqYB)DSCN3965 (https://flic.kr/p/XjAqYB) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I did apply some Copaslip but it was hard work winding it into place.

I ended up with a puller to remove the poly bush from one of the spring eyes. Hitting it with a drift didn't work because of the resilience of the polyurethane.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/1006.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X4MLcS)DSCN3967 (https://flic.kr/p/X4MLcS) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

New bushes installed after rust removal.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/1007.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XjAmv8)DSCN3968 (https://flic.kr/p/XjAmv8) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I tend not to use grease on the outside of the spring bushes since I had problems with another vehicle where the bush ended up loose in the spring eye.

Managed to de-rust everything and get some painting done so should be able to re-assemble once I've shimmed up the replacement swivel hub and re-sealed the slave cylinders.



Colin

[gromit]

Found a front swivel hub assembly the other day in my collection of bits, the chrome looked perfect !
Stripped it down and found that the Railco bush had been loose in the swivel and the hole was worn oval !!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/1008.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X6vvKA)DSCN3795 (https://flic.kr/p/X6vvKA) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Re-assembled the front passenger side hub/brake etc. today.

Slave cylinders ready for re-assembly.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/1009.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XjAgYx)DSCN3975 (https://flic.kr/p/XjAgYx) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Shimming the swivel.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/1010.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X4MFah)DSCN3977 (https://flic.kr/p/X4MFah) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I've found that nipping the Railco pin in place to get roughly the correct pre-load you can slip shims into the gap to determine roughly what's needed. Add another 0.003" shim and re-assemble & tighten and it's usually about right (add or subtract to get it correct) but it was spot on this time.

Assembly nearly finished, brake shoes installed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/1011.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XjAcpn)DSCN3980 (https://flic.kr/p/XjAcpn) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Ready for the wheel to go back on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/1012.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W3KCtL)DSCN3985 (https://flic.kr/p/W3KCtL) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Onto the passenger side rear next then a few brake pipes to make up.


Colin

[gromit]

More fun last night removing rusted leaf spring bolts from poly bushes.

The inner steel tube isn't very well rust proofed (maybe zinc passivated), that and a lack of grease on assembly means that the bolts rust to the tube, the tube swells & you have to cut them out.

Used an air saw again because the Dormy is inside the garage. Now just have to extract the polybush & rusted bolt & tube !

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/1125.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W6gUzk)DSCN4097 (https://flic.kr/p/W6gUzk) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[gromit]

I haven't been doing much on the Dormobile for a while.
I did get some Troopy tyres a while ago, then got the rims blasted and have just painted them in 007 Limestone.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/934.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfWopo)DSCN4280 (https://flic.kr/p/XfWopo) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr



The wire frames in front of the wheels I made for lifting them. I have to paint outside then move them inside to fully dry.

Need to get the brakes finished (a few more pipes to make up) then re-upholster the seats.


Colin

[gromit]

Wheels now have tyres fitted. Expensive hobby even with Toyota take-off tyres

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/1079.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfWpVQ)DSCN4293 (https://flic.kr/p/XfWpVQ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Need to remove the temporary wheels and fit these at the weekend.


Colin

[gromit]

Had a look at seatbelt mountings today. Because I'll be taking the kids out in Walter I've been told inertia reel belts are preferred......

The Dormobile has 3 seats in the front and 2 individual seats in the rear, it's old enough to not need belts but came with two dodgy front belts fitted. Bits of angle iron bolted through the rear floor, holes through the B pillars but no crush tubes etc. etc.

I've already got the inertia reels & a lap belt for the centre front (although I want to get onto the supplier because the inertia reels come with stalks which isn't going to work too well with the dormobile seats).

I parted out a LWB Station Wagon a while ago and scored some mounts and 67hardtop supplied some brackets a long while ago so I'm nearly there.

Front top mount, bolts to rear of B pillar.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/1080.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHJh5o)DSCN4311 (https://flic.kr/p/WHJh5o) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/1081.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfWA9W)DSCN4316 (https://flic.kr/p/XfWA9W) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Lower front centre mounts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/1082.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WHJetw)DSCN4313 (https://flic.kr/p/WHJetw) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/1083.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfWCTd)DSCN4314 (https://flic.kr/p/XfWCTd) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Lower front mount is standard Land Rover, down beside the seatbox.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/1084.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X6wCVL)DSCN3259 (https://flic.kr/p/X6wCVL) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Just need to work out where to mount the inertia reels where they don't interfere with the seats. May end up low down on the B pillar.


Rear upper mounts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/1085.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfWxes)DSCN4318 (https://flic.kr/p/XfWxes) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Inertia reel can mount like this.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/1086.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XhwXCo)DSCN3865 (https://flic.kr/p/XhwXCo) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Just need to work out the rear lower centre & side mounts.



Colin

[gromit]

I'm on the lookout for a Smiths heater to replace the one that's been removed from Walter.
De-mister pipes are there but the heater is AWOL.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/1310.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W66S7p)DSCF3449 (https://flic.kr/p/W66S7p) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

My Series I has a home made jobbie.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/828.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WDoEor)DSCN3522 (https://flic.kr/p/WDoEor) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

In my travels I've scored a couple of these.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/04/1087.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/WKqvQJ)DSCN3521 (https://flic.kr/p/WKqvQJ) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

They are made by Toa Denso.
I googled and couldn't come up with much but they seem to have been an aftermarket heater you could buy to fit to any vehicle (I found some posts on a Holden forum). I did also find reference to them being sold in K-Mart ?!
A bit smaller diameter than the Smiths and not quite what I'm looking for.


The search continues.....

[gromit]

Thanks to a couple of fellow forum members I now have enough bits to make up a suitable Smith's heater.
The door knobs & clips are available from the UK, although I did wonder about tracking someone down who can plastic print the door knobs (high tech for a 50 year old vehicle). Just need some door clips, which are also available from the UK, but I might try to make some first.

Next I'm trying to track down the original sound deadening (sort of) carpet for the firewall etc. The material is Hardura Hardura (Tuffelt Classic) | Trimming Materials (http://www.car-hood.co.uk/hardura-tuffelt-classic) but I haven't yet found anyone in Australia that sells it at a reasonable price (Classic British & German have it at $69 per mtr but I'll have to check what width). I have an industrial sewing machine so if I can source the material could possibly make up a set.
Exmoor supply what I need Search results for: 'hardura' | Exmoor Trim (http://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=hardura) but getting expensive by the time you add freight.
The only other option is someone parting out a vehicle with DeLuxe trim.

Mine is 'passable' but has a few holes and a couple of pieces are missing. I parted out a wagon recently with DeLuxe trim and the Hardura parts were worse than those in Walter !


Colin

[gromit]

Since Photobucket are holding me to ransom I'll have to re-insert the photos for this thread, in the meantime.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/07/141.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/W9yKyS)Dormobile 1 (https://flic.kr/p/W9yKyS) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Colin

[Chops]

It says flickers server hasn't got the DNS address bit ??

[gromit]

It says flickers server hasn't got the DNS address bit ??

OK looks like I haven't got the hang of it just yet......


Colin

[gromit]

Haven't been doing much on the Dormobile for a while, need to get a military Land Rover ready for Corowa next year.

Still on the lookout for parts though. The Father-in-law is clearing out some gear he won't use now due to health issues, picked up a stainless steel two burner stove & grill that should fit the Dormy (I'll keep the old one stored somewhere).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/31.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZJmccr)DSCN4590 (https://flic.kr/p/ZJmccr) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Also scored a hand winch, chainsaw and a 21litre Engel fridge. Plus some other bits & pieces like a home built storage system for a Suzuki Jimney c/w a hand operated 'forklift' he used to get it in & out of the vehicle ! Looks like a trip to the scrap merchants is on the cards soon.


Colin

[gromit]

I'm still working on a military Land Rover, one of my boys has a Subaru to get through a roadworthy, I have a couple of sheds to finish but I've been tidying up round the Dormobile and I'm starting to look for parts to get the project moving again.

The indicator lenses have faded and the sidelight lenses have cracked, they are the Sparto ones fitted in the UK back in the 60's. I was lucky to get one sidelight lens at the swap meet at Cooma but need another plus four indicators. They are a different shape to the usual Lucas items.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/06/96.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/X4DRGA)DSCF3453 (https://flic.kr/p/X4DRGA) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

I've posted a wanted advert on the forum and next will have to try a few companies in the UK
Sparto Indicator lenses (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/wanted-adverts/262379-sparto-indicator-lenses.html)


Colin

[gromit]

Having a tidy up ready for a 'hard rubbish' collection and I thought I'd sort out a roof rack given to me by a fellow forum member ages ago (thanks Ian).

The aim was to cut down a roofrack to make one that fits over the front section of the roof and overhangs the bonnet.
The rack had lots of bits welded onto it and weighed a 'ton' so out with the angle grinder and a few cutting discs later I had some parts to weld together a shortened roofrack.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/931/43141976154_99bba5f584_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/28JiUt5)DSCN4892 (https://flic.kr/p/28JiUt5) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr

Took ages to cut/grind off all the additions that had been welded on. Just need to weld on some legs and brackets for support arms down to the windscreen pivots. Then it'll need sandblasting & painting......


Colin

[67hardtop]

Been a bit busy there Colin??

[gromit]

Just found a video on YouTube of a Series I gathering at Gembrook back in 2007.
The landowner Steve is a member here.

YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JgawZR0S80Y)

I noticed a Dormobile, looked a bit closer and it's the one I now own ! It appears a few times but at 50s in there is a rear side view and a couple of distinctive items that confirm it's mine.
Contacted Steve and it turns out that Bevan Fenner was driving it, he put me on to it a few years ago........small World.


Colin

[gromit]

Early Christmas presents arrived.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7854/45502374185_7b6966be5e_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2cjTyyR)DSCN4993 (https://flic.kr/p/2cjTyyR) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr


Thanks Santa......sorry, I mean thanks Charlie.


Just need a driveshaft for the Capstan winch and I'm a lot closer to getting it working.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4314/36267799186_4bdf220b2b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/XfRX9w)DSCN3552 (https://flic.kr/p/XfRX9w) by Colin Radley (https://www.flickr.com/photos/152321353@N07/), on Flickr



Colin

[Chops]

Colin, I’m guessing the bracket looking parts are for the winch?

[gromit]

Colin, I’m guessing the bracket looking parts are for the winch?

Hi Marcus,
Yes, for the fairlead roller, the brackets on mine are broken. If I can find someone who can alloy weld mine could be repaired.

Read that you moved earlier in the week, you should have shouted and I'd have given a hand. I'm off till the 14th (but Tracy has a few jobs for me to do) so if you need help when you're back let me know.


Colin

[gromit]

I had a fellow forum member round on Saturday looking at seatbelt mounts etc.
We looked at the Dormobile and the brackets I'd acquired, compared it to the Defender and worked out how to install the mounts.

Today I had an hour or so spare so I removed some of the bracketry a previous owner had installed and started looking at seat removal (to fit new covers). I was disappointed to find that a latch mechanism on one of the rear seats had been cut off and it's mating part unbolted & removed !
There are two single seats in the second row of a Dormobile and they can be moved together and laid down (to form the main bed). The latch stops the seat folding accidentally so I need to pull out the seat that's complete and copy the mechanism.
Re-covering will be fun as it's an inner sprung seat not the usual block of foam covered with vinyl.

One of the grab rails on the back of a front seat is also missing so I need to get some pipe bent with quite a tight radius to make a replacement.

It looks like installing the seatbelt brackets will mean taking the hardboard headlining out and removing timber battens that are used to mount the headlining and curtain rails.
I also need to lift the roof to get the rear sidepanals out to replace the seals top & bottom.

There's a lot of work to restoring a LWB Station Wagon and even more with a Dormobile !


Colin

[jerryd]

Hi Colin, I might have a single seat grab bar in the shed on my spare seat, will have to check.

It took me nearly 2 months to restore my seats but well worth the effort. I'm not staying original on the dormobile as I want it to be user friendly [bighmmm] so I've gone on a ''Out Of Africa'' theme for my seats and curtains.

The trimmer did a great job but costs went way over his quote, I ended up making new seat back panels, new foam, repairs and replacement springs etc. I stripped all the frames and re painted them.

I have some oddments of elephant hide material tucked away also, might be useful to someone.

[gromit]

Hi Colin, I might have a single seat grab bar in the shed on my spare seat, will have to check.



Jerry,
If you have a spare grab rail it would be very helpful. I actually need the passenger (longer) bar but I could lengthen it easily and at least the bend radius matches the other one.
I like your seatcovers but I'm using Elephant hide........

I've started to add the rear seatbelts.
SWB hardtop brackets required holes drilling. Because of the timber for the headlining & curtain rail to attach to you have to remove the timber strip & cut out sections to clear the bolts. I'll paint the brackets green when the roof is removed somewhere down the track....

Mounting the inertia reel was straightforward. Pulled out the captive nut strip where the sidepanel is held to an angle bracket and managed to drill & tap one the the nuts to 7/16" UNF. Drill a clearance hole in the sidepanel and bolt up the inertia reel.
The lower mount should be easy, just need to weld a 7/16" UNF nut to strip of steel.

The inner one's behind the seat will be a bit harder, I'll have to plate either side of the floor. Then I need to get onto the seatbelt supplier in the UK because the inertia reels come with stalks and I want webbing for the inner mounts because the seats have to fold down.

I may get a chance to remove the rear seats today and start copying the latch that's missing on one of them !


Colin

[67hardtop]

Colin , I have a friend who can get almost any seatbelt combo you want. Inertia reel with stalks or even webbed buckles. Just need to know what exactly ur looking for and I can tell u if it's available, and a price including postage to you through his business. I've just recently fitted new seat belts to my bushpig perentie with longer stalks so the belts fit around my guts better ..lol. I fitted the belts I removed to the piglet stage 1. Let me know if u need me to check them out for you. Cheers mate. Rod.

[gromit]

Colin , I have a friend who can get almost any seatbelt combo you want. Inertia reel with stalks or even webbed buckles. Just need to know what exactly ur looking for and I can tell u if it's available, and a price including postage to you through his business.

PM sent

[67hardtop]

That's cheap. The belts are about $130.
PM sentDunno what's happening there? The belts are about $130 each for inertia type. Not sure on lap belt type. My mate, I've just found out, is away for a couple weeks. Few marital probs. The belts that he gets mostly fit Aussie cars, just thought u might be able to get something that fits. If the belts u need are fairly specific then he may Not be able to help. Plus he's the sort of bloke that won't contact you. He deals mostly through his eBay store, Holdspares* with the asterisk. Just thinking he's prob not the sorta fella that would go out of his way these days. Hmmm. Cheers Colin.

[gromit]

Rod,
I'll get lap belts from Paddocks ($25 each) which will give me the end I need instead of the wire stalks.

Colin

[67hardtop]

Sounds like a much better idea I think Colin. Cheers
Rod,
I'll get lap belts from Paddocks ($25 each) which will give me the end I need instead of the wire stalks.

Colin

[gromit]

Every time I work on the Dormobile I find something missing or broken !

Previous owners have added & removed bits & pieces so there are plenty of extra holes. Today I found screws missing from one of the rear seats and some 2BA pan head screws from the rear sidepanel that have gone walkabout ! Also found some rust in the bottom of the passenger side B pillar. At some point in the future I'll have to remove the side of the Dormy (A pillar, B pillar & 1/2 C pillar) to fix the rust. I do have a spare pair of panels that are reasonably rust free but it's not a job I'm looking forward to.

Anyway, managed to get another couple of seatbelt mounts in place. Had to remove the headlining panel which needs to be replaced and, just like in a caravan found the sharp end self tapping screws poking through the roof and all sorts of work that was done to fit the opening roof section.
The front section of the roof has some brackets bolted on where a roofrack must have been fitted in the past. Inside there was a curved steel brace to take the weight to the gutters.

The 'headlining' is hardboard (Masonite) with a vinyl covering. I've found a few potential suppliers but I'm guessing it might be something used in the caravan industry. My only concern is that it's curved at the edges. I wonder if it's just forced into shape or whether you have to damp it down and clamp it in a former ??


Colin

[gromit]

Parts turned up from Paddocks in under a week so I now have some seatbelts to work with.

I'm looking at making a former for bending the Masonite for the headlining. No idea what I'm doing so hope it works out.....
I'm a member of a local woodwork club (Mens Shed) so I'll cut out the parts to make the formers, I need one for the tapered section on the front headlining and another for the two short side pieces.

I spoke with a customer who works at a company that laminate boards, he wasn't aware of vinyl clad Masonite so it must be something from the 60's in the UK when the Dormobile was made. He suggested companies that vinyl clad kitchen cabinet doors or the other alternative is to wrap one side in vinyl.


Colin

[gromit]

Purchased some Masonite yesterday, formers for bending have been made, even found a guide for permanent bending that was produced by Masonite.

If it works out I'll have to buy another sheet and have a go at making the front section of the headlining then cover it with some thin vinyl. Original was a vinyl covered masonite but thinner than you can buy easily nowadays, possibly produced for the caravan industry in the UK back in the 60's.


Colin

[gromit]

Sprayed water on the back of the Masonite several times over about 3 hours.
Then clamped it between formers, no sounds of cracking. Will leave it a few days and see if it keeps shape, there will probably be some spring-back.

If the process works OK I need to try on a large piece for the front of the headlining, the curve is a bit tighter at the front and because of the slope of the roof I'll have to take some accurate measurements from the old headlining before bending.


Colin

[gromit]

Left the Masonite clamped in the formers in the sun today.
Couldn't help myself, I had to take it out and see the results.....As expected there was some springback, I clamped it back in the formers but thinking about it maybe I should have wet the back again.
Looks like a good result, now need to get another sheet of Masonite big enough for the front section of the headlining.

The front section of the roof has some aluminium channel sections bolted on, looks like it was for a roofrack of some sort in the past. Inside were some braces which I removed, just need to seal the holes in the most unobtrusive way, I have some aluminium solid rivets which I might use.
Might add some sound deadening material to the roof once the holes are sealed, it gets covered by the headlining but might stop condensation which over the years damaged the original headlining.

A previous owner has been keeping notes in pencil above the windscreen. "24,300 Head", "Gearbox dies 62,300"


Colin

[gromit]

Spent most of the long weekend clearing up after the storm then replacing a prop shaft on a diesel Territory ($2,600 from Ford ! $1,400 for a reco including a $600 core charge).

Needed to do something, however small, on one of the projects so I made a latch for one of the rear seats.

There are two single rear seats that can be layed flat to form part of a double bed. On one seat the latch has been unbolted and lost and the part it latches onto ground off ?
The rear seats can be moved together to form the bed or moved apart to leave a walkway in between them. There is a knob that screws into part of the seat to hold it in position, the knob is missing and the part it screws into partly ground off ?
I can only guess that something needed to fit behind the front passenger seat so bits of the rear seat were removed !

Anyway, removed the latch from the other rear seat and made a copy. A few hours spent cutting & filing....

Colin

[gromit]

In between dealing with fallen branches, gardening and house renovations I managed to start work on the capstan winch for Walter.

Drive shaft & engine drive dog are missing so I'll have to make those along with the engagement lever.
It was clean inside with little wear, oil seals now replaced (one was an original leather one) and a new gasket made for the bottom plate.
The mounting plate was buckled and had a few holes where bolts had been 'gas axed' off so straightened under a press and holes welded up & ground flat.

Rather than a brass shear pin it had a roll pin fitted, I might make a brass shear pin at a later date.

This, along with a few other projects, is moving slowly but at least moving in the right direction.....


Colin

[JDNSW]

A roll pin? I thought the standard replacement was a section of an Allen key! Same philosophy that replaces fuses by wrapping with aluminium foil (or a .22LR).

[gromit]

Just collected a Rocky Mountain overdrive for Walter.

History is unknown so I'll need to strip & check.
When did they stop making these ? I also wonder about spare parts availability.


Colin

[gromit]

Well I have a reply from Global Roamer, parts may still be available.

Looks like it's just the gearstick & knob missing but I need to strip & check it over before going any further.


Colin

[gromit]

I've been busy painting, unfortunately rooms in the house rather than Land Rovers.
SWMBO is away at the Scout Jamboree with one of the daughters so I'm left with the youngest daughter and the two boys so cooking shopping etc. etc.

Found some time today to open the overdrive.
All seems OK but will need an O-ring to seal the two parts together plus, as mentioned, I need to make a gearstick.

Capstan winch back together, time to manufacture a drive shaft !


Colin

[gromit]

I was under the Dormobile tonight removing the rear propshaft so I can inspect the handbrake shoes, these are usually covered in oil and I had noticed the odd drip from the backplate.

While under there I realised that the Dormobile tool tray under the seat will stop me fitting the Rocky Mountain overdrive ! I'll have to inspect the tool tray and see if I can make a modified one to clear the overdrive.

On the plus side the handbrake shoes were dry (old riveted linings), the catcher is doing it's job and diverting oil away which means I need to replace the seal while I'm in there. I'll also check the propshaft UJ's & sliding joint.


Colin

[JDNSW]

I made a custom tray out of aluminium angle and sheet aluminium. Maybe not as elegant, but it works.

[86mud]

Are you planning on having this ready for Cooma next year?

[gromit]

Are you planning on having this ready for Cooma next year?

Basically yes, but there's always something that gets in the way...... like another LR project.

It starts & drives, engine & gearbox were re-conditioned years back, brakes have been overhauled just a few rigid pipes to makes.
Headlining is underway, seats need stripping & recovering, seatbelt install to finish.


Colin

[gromit]

I was laying on the floor of the garage tonight, underneath the Dormobile removing the gearbox front output shaft seal housing.
Dirt falling in my face, struggling to find a 1/4W OE spanner that would fit and swing in the limited space available.
Getting out from under was a struggle each time and it took several different spanners plus removing the drivers floor to get the job done
It crossed my mind, is this an enjoyable hobby or some form of masochism ?

I guess it's the challenge, fixing things yourself and, hopefully, the end result.....

Anyway, seal housing cleaned up, original leather seal removed and I found a seal 'in stock'.
Maybe back under the Dormobile tomorrow night to refit.

The front propshaft is next, a quick check over and new slip-joint seal.

Colin

[gromit]

Replaced one of the front driveshaft UJ's. Just a small amount of play but decided best to replace it before it fails.
Plenty of grease in it but a series of angled grooves in two of the bearing cups. I've seen this wear pattern in the past and wondered why it's at an angle ?

New slip-joint seal fitted, painted and will install next week.

Colin

[JDNSW]

Replaced one of the front driveshaft UJ's. Just a small amount of play but decided best to replace it before it fails.
Plenty of grease in it but a series of angled grooves in two of the bearing cups. I've seen this wear pattern in the past and wondered why it's at an angle ?

New slip-joint seal fitted, painted and will install next week.

Colin

Just a guess, but if there is wear on the needles, cups, and pins, this would allow the needles to tilt as there is now free play. The direction of tilt is presumably dependent on which way the joint is torqued. Which will tend to be mostly the same way - i.e. the front shaft is being driven by the diff most of the time, and the reverse for the rear shaft.

[gromit]

Just a guess, but if there is wear on the needles, cups, and pins, this would allow the needles to tilt as there is now free play. The direction of tilt is presumably dependent on which way the joint is torqued. Which will tend to be mostly the same way - i.e. the front shaft is being driven by the diff most of the time, and the reverse for the rear shaft.

John,
As the bearings oscillate I wonder why the needles would tilt one way ? When I've seen this before I wondered if a needle roller was missing but as you say, wear will allow enough room for the needles to tilt. Odd that two opposite ones had grooves, the other two were OK.

It was lucky I detected the tiny amount of play, the UJ the other end had seals, this one had steel cups and felt so possibly an original ?

Colin

[JDNSW]

Colin,

The bearings oscillate, but as I mentioned, the load on them is usually the same way, either driving the axle or being driven by it, and my guess is that it is this that determines which way the needles tilt. But whether they are able to tilt will depend on how much wear there is, and this is almost certainly dependent on how much grit has got in over the years, and how little grease.

[gromit]

Moved the passenger seat tonight and the tray under the seat that's in the way of fitting an overdrive is steel so easy to modify or re-manufacture

Battery is under the bonnet but there is also a battery well under the passenger seat, maybe for a 'house' battery.
There's also a tool roll that the previous owner must have missed, I'd seen it under the seat but hadn't bothered to investigate.

At some point I need to work out where to mount a small gas bottle underneath. Originally it was under the drivers seat but an auxilliary fuel tank has been fitted there. At present there is a gas bottle in the wardrobe !!

When the weather improves I need to move it outside, weld up some holes in the B pillars where someone has fitted seatbelts and fit some rivets into the holes in the roof where I removed some aluminium brackets fitted by a previous owner.

I should probably make a list and start ticking things off.


Colin

[gromit]

I've stripped many layers of paint off the front of the roof.
The inside is a deep red, like a red oxide paint and the base layer on the outside was also red. I haven't seen this before so not sure if it was 'factory' or Dormoble.

You can see in the picture where Dormobile cut the three roof ribs and pop-riveted on endcaps.

I found that a few of the rivets that hold the roof panel to the drip rail have been replaced with screws & nuts, must have been a leak. The roof would have to be removed to re-squeeze the rivets so that's maybe why screws were used ?
Also found that the drip rail has been filled with something to also, I guess, stop leaks. Paint stripper is struggling to soften it. I'll keep trying to remove it and maybe use seam sealer over the join between roof & drip rail.

At some point, when the weather is better, I need to remove the roof and the roof cap & re-paint. At the moment not sure how I'm going to do it. There isn't much room between the roof & cross beams in the garage, I might be able to lift & drive the Dormobile from under.
Otherwise maybe a couple of kids swing sets, one each end. I have one that isn't used any longer I'll have to check the height.

Another option is to drive it to work and use a forklift, need to re-upholster and get the brakes finished first !


Colin

[gromit]

Diversion onto another project.

I was given a large three-phase compressor some year back.
I've purchased a Chonda (Chinese Honda) motor and intend to use it for medial blasting.
Picture shows the large receiver about to get a coat of paint, I struggle to lift it on a sack barrow so I'll need to put wheels on it at some point, especially when the motor & compressor get re-fitted !


Colin

[dickyjoe]

Thats a massive Air Compressor.

Could you use it as a general unit for everything?

[gromit]

Thats a massive Air Compressor.

Could you use it as a general unit for everything?

A bit noisy for just pumping up tyres or spray painting and at the wrong end of the property
I have small compressors so this one is only going to be needed for media blasting.

The compressor itself is only single cylinder, once the receiver is up to pressure I should be able to blast for a while though.

Colin

[whitehillbilly64]

Make sure the safety valve works......That would go off with a big Bang.
Thanks for your posts Colin, Sure quiet in the Series Section of the Forum these Days.

whitehillbilly

[gromit]

Make sure the safety valve works......That would go off with a big Bang.
Thanks for your posts Colin, Sure quiet in the Series Section of the Forum these Days.

whitehillbilly

Just purchased a valve that will vent when a set pressure reached as no facility to reduce the speed of the motor.
Media blasting will use it faster than the compressor can supply anyway.

It's been quiet for a long time in the Series section, most activity seems to be on Facebook although I rely on one of my boys to keep me up to date as I don't have an account.

Colin

[whitehillbilly64]

Try and Find Archive stuff on FB.
Very Important we Keep Supporting Forum Sites.

whitehillbilly

[jerryd]

I've stripped many layers of paint off the front of the roof.
The inside is a deep red, like a red oxide paint and the base layer on the outside was also red. I haven't seen this before so not sure if it was 'factory' or Dormoble.

You can see in the picture where Dormobile cut the three roof ribs and pop-riveted on endcaps.

I found that a few of the rivets that hold the roof panel to the drip rail have been replaced with screws & nuts, must have been a leak. The roof would have to be removed to re-squeeze the rivets so that's maybe why screws were used ?
Also found that the drip rail has been filled with something to also, I guess, stop leaks. Paint stripper is struggling to soften it. I'll keep trying to remove it and maybe use seam sealer over the join between roof & drip rail.

At some point, when the weather is better, I need to remove the roof and the roof cap & re-paint. At the moment not sure how I'm going to do it. There isn't much room between the roof & cross beams in the garage, I might be able to lift & drive the Dormobile from under.
Otherwise maybe a couple of kids swing sets, one each end. I have one that isn't used any longer I'll have to check the height.

Another option is to drive it to work and use a forklift, need to re-upholster and get the brakes finished first !


Colin


Hours of fun Colin [bighmmm] Pic shows easiest method to get roof off [bigwhistle] It was a four man job getting it back on

[gromit]

Hours of fun Colin [bighmmm] Pic shows easiest method to get roof off [bigwhistle] It was a four man job getting it back on

Thanks Jerry.
Another method to consider.

Colin

[gromit]

Try and Find Archive stuff on FB.
Very Important we Keep Supporting Forum Sites.

whitehillbilly

Problem is with no activity there is nothing to archive.....

Colin

[jerryd]

Hi Colin,
Gearbox coming out again to get at rear main seal and a bit of blue going on front guard. I've no idea why the new seal has suddenly failed

[gromit]

Hi Colin,
Gearbox coming out again to get at rear main seal and a bit of blue going on front guard. I've no idea why the new seal has suddenly failed

Jerry,

I have dent in the drivers side wing I need to remove and also damage to the drivers side rear corner.
The wing is partly done (I'm only an amateur panel beater) the rear corner will take some more thought. The gal corner piece is damaged so I'll remove that and maybe make a plate to go behind so I can pull the corner (via a hand winch) while I try and panel beat the panel back to shape.

The only other panel work is a dent in one one of the sills.

Sorry to hear about the seal failure.


Colin

[gromit]

I need to fill some holes in the roof panel where a previous owner fitted some sort of roof rack. Sealed blind rivets wouldn't look correct so I intend to use solid rivets.

I have a box of rivets that came from a gentleman who worked at Regent Motors back in the 50's, problem is they are a bit too long. I need to cut them down.
I remember seeing a tool years ago for clipping rivets to length. A couple of bits of steel strip some drilling & filing and I now have a rivet clipper.

In the attached picture the rivet is passed through the hole (from underneath), the length adjusted by putting washers on the rivet first (yes, fairly crude). The cutout in the upper jaw makes a neat job of clipping the rivet to length.

I have a rivet set so next I need someone pressing the rivet set on the head while I peen over the shank.


Colin

[drfish]

Very nice work Colin
I need to fill some holes in the roof panel where a previous owner fitted some sort of roof rack. Sealed blind rivets wouldn't look correct so I intend to use solid rivets.

I have a box of rivets that came from a gentleman who worked at Regent Motors back in the 50's, problem is they are a bit too long. I need to cut them down.
I remember seeing a tool years ago for clipping rivets to length. A couple of bits of steel strip some drilling & filing and I now have a rivet clipper.

In the attached picture the rivet is passed through the hole (from underneath), the length adjusted by putting washers on the rivet first (yes, fairly crude). The cutout in the upper jaw makes a neat job of clipping the rivet to length.

I have a rivet set so next I need someone pressing the rivet set on the head while I peen over the shank.


Colin

[gromit]

I've made some frames to lift the roof off the Dormobile later in the year.

I thought I'd make them on the cheap.
Found someone selling box section steel, 3.2mtr lengths for $10 each, "have some paint on them".

Well they were used as spacers or something in a company that powder coat MDF, there was about 1.5 mm of paint all round !!!
Had to hammer the worst of it off and then a wire brush in an angle grinder !
Saved money but cost me in time. Need to paint the top of each frame then weld up the cross bars (two 25MM square tubes 3mm wall thickness). I'll probably be able to lift the Dormobile with the finished frames.

Colin

[gromit]

Cleared some parts stored around the Dormobile today and decided to see if it will start. It was driven into the garage some years ago and was running fine at the time.
There's a battery on it which I've been keeping charged but it struggled to turn it over so swapped it for another one the young bloke had scored at work.

Petrol down the carby, turned it over and it fired straight away but then stopped. Probably needed to lift some stale fuel from the tank. Tried again and this time it ran OK, even on stale fuel.
I can't get it out of the garage at present as there is a Honda V6 with the transmission removed sitting on the driveway, I've given the young bloke 2 weeks to get it moved !

Squeezed down the side and managed to remove the drivers seat, need to strip it, paint the frame & re-cover.

Better start making a list of work to be done.


Colin

[gromit]

I had to sort through the back of the Dormobile to find the covers for the drivers seat today.
While there I decided to throw out some odds & ends. A previous owned had made brackets & containers to hold stuff under seats plus there was a plate that covered one of the small rear windows.

The side window behind the wardrobe has been replaced by a riveted in panel, there is some attempt at insulation which I can't get to until I remove the wardrobe.
The small rear window on the drivers side had an odd blanking piece which I thought was just another attempt at insulation. Aluminium both sides but seemed to be made up of layers of thin board. Took the screws out today and found a complete set of gaskets !

Where tape had secured them in position there was clear plastic under the tape so the glue didn't damage them.
One cork gasket fell apart but otherwise all look usable. There was also a thin sheet of what looks like asbestos and a strange copper composite gasket with a small hole in the centre.


Colin

[gromit]

Stripped the drivers seat while I was at the local Woodwork Club (Mens Shed) last night.

The base had been re-upholstered with some blue foam underneath, hog ringed to the springs. The back was the original sackcloth over the springs then Kapok then 1/2" foam, I'll be trying to emulate this and not use super modern materials.
Purchased a couple of metres of 12mm foam, 1.8metre wide today for $37, already have some padding (to replace the Kapok) made out of reconstituted old rags (well that's what it looks like).

Just need to make my mind up whether to replace the hessian or use some other material, The re-upholstered one used some canvas, hog ringed to the springs although I'd be tempted to sew it in place.

Tried to source some No4 self tappers, countersunk but domed head and some No4 cup washers today without success.
Ended up with some non-raised head screws and some slightly larger cup washers. The washers came from a company we deal with, he hunted them down, picked out years of fluff, put them in a box and when I got my wallet out told me they were 'a sample' !

The Masonite back board has mould on it so I'll make a replacement, there was some elephant hide material in the seat kit to re-cover it. Just need to mark & drill holes for all the screws.
Seat springs had rusted, I guess it gets damp when you sleep in the vehicle ?

Next strip & re-paint the frame.

Colin

[gromit]

The two top outer springs on the backrest were 'stuffed' (see picture), I guess this is to stiffen them up ?

Strange that the spring setup for both seat & backrest are bare steel, this has surface rust so I'm thinking of spray painting the springs to hold back rust in future. I can't think of any reason not to paint them ?

I briefly thought about using shadecloth instead of hessian on top of the springs but it might slip around so best I use hessian as original. I'll sew it in place. I have a roll I picked up a while back in of all places, an Op Shop.

Found No4 Cup washers in st/st at Bunnings, not cheap though.

Frame is sanded and I've found a source of Old English White in rattle cans for $5 each.


Colin

[gromit]

Painted the drivers seat frame.
Day 1 paint, day 2 fold the seat to expose unpainted areas, paint. Day 3 fold & check that there are no more unpainted areas around the hinges....

The other front seat will be a lot of 'fun'.
Difficult to handle (will need help) plus multiple settings (front facing seat, tip over and it becomes a rear facing seat, lay down for bed, tip up to access under seat storage areas).
Will take a few days to paint all the hinge areas.

Not long and I'll be re-covering the drivers seat.


Colin

[jerryd]

Hours of fun Colin [smilebigeye]

The trimmer did an incredible job on mine

[gromit]

Hours of fun Colin [smilebigeye]

The trimmer did an incredible job on mine

Jerry,
I don't intend to take the seat frames apart, in fact I think they are riveted together.

The Exmoor Elephant Hide seat covers look great but I'll see how they fit soon......


Colin

[jerryd]

Jerry,
I don't intend to take the seat frames apart, in fact I think they are riveted together.

The Exmoor Elephant Hide seat covers look great but I'll see how they fit soon......


Colin

That pic is of the rear seat frames which bolt together. I suggest you take a pic or two so you remember how they go back together [bighmmm]

[gromit]

That pic is of the rear seat frames which bolt together. I suggest you take a pic or two so you remember how they go back together [bighmmm]

I haven't really looked at the rears except to make a missing latch, were your fronts riveted together ?
The covers are near perfect as they haven't been sat on much over the years. Problem is when the fronts are re-covered they will look different if I don't re-cover them.
I guess they'll donate Elephant Hide if needed for door trims etc. but they are almost too good to cut up.

A question you might be able to answer.....
Mine didn't come with a table but the mounting is in the rear footwell. I'm guessing that this mounting was fitted whether the Dormy was supplied with a table or not ?
Down the track I'm thinking of making a table but that's a long way off.......

Colin

[jerryd]

I believe the front frames have rivets, my seats were black originally but suffered severe water damage when the vehicle got sabotaged [bighmmm]

Some info here on seats and tables. There should be brackets to support the table arms on the door frames

Land Rover Dormobile Seating (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/Dormobile/seats.html)

[gromit]

I believe the front frames have rivets, my seats were black originally but suffered severe water damage when the vehicle got sabotaged [bighmmm]

Some info here on seats and tables. There should be brackets to support the table arms on the door frames

Land Rover Dormobile Seating (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/Dormobile/seats.html)

Thanks Jerry,
I'd found TerriAnn's site soon after I got the Dormy

I don't think the brackets are on the door frames, I'll have to look to see if there are holes where they were fitted.
Not too hard to replicate I guess.

Colin

[jerryd]

I've got a spare set of the brackets if you need them, I purchased a new table from Dormobile a few years ago and it came with new brackets.

[gromit]

I've been looking for a rivet squeezer for some time, they crop up in Australia but never with the correct squeezer dies available.

I contacted a company in the UK and the correct dies for the truss head semi-tubular rivets are just as expensive as an economy squeezer. Problem is you need one set of dies for the roof rivets and a different set for the door seal rivets.

The squeezer is needed for several projects including a shorty Tropical roof. The Dormobile needs a few roof rivets replaced and ultimately all the door seals.

Looks like I know what I'll be getting for Christmas.....


Colin

[gromit]

Managed to re-upholster the drivers seat today.

Sewed on some hessian, followed by a layer of padding, then 1/2" foam.
Came together OK, the Exmoor covers fit well.
Just need to cover the new backpanel I made then it's on to the front passenger seat.

Colin

[gromit]

Big difference in colour between old faded original and new replica Elephant Hide.
The door panels are OK so I'll just be cleaning & carrying out minor repairs.

Passenger front seat removed, I'll need help to hang this up to paint.
Found one spring missing underneath so I need to find a spring that's about the same size & strength.

The Jesus bar on the back of the passenger seat is missing so I'll have to make a replacement, the one on the drivers seat will give me rough dimensions.
Quite a tight bend at each end so I'll have to get out the oxy at work and make some tooling. I'll pack the tube with sand & weld endcaps on.

While the seat's out I'll remove the centre tool tray and fit the Rocky Mountain overdrive, the tool tray then needs cutting down before re-fitting.

The list is getting longer rather than shorter......


Colin

[gromit]

Took the front passenger seat apart last night, I think a different person assembled this compared to the drivers seat.
A layer of padding was missing from the seatbase and a lot of hog rings were used (none on the original part of the drivers seat).

I used an old knife & a hammer to remove the trim clips. The foam had a number on it, possibly the Dormobile build number.

Off to a small spring manufacturer tomorrow to see if he has a spring to replace the missing one. He will make them but expensive for a one off so hopefully he has something that's about right.

Tooling made to bend the the Jesus bar, tube filled with sand & endcaps welded on.

Tooltray is out now so I can fit the Rocky Mountain overdrive from above, then I have to make a modified tooltray. Fitting seatbelt mounts will mean further changes to the tooltray.

Just ordered my Christmas present, a rivet squeezer & dies plus some rivets.


Colin

[drfish]

Cooma is only a few short months away!


Big difference in colour between old faded original and new replica Elephant Hide.
The door panels are OK so I'll just be cleaning & carrying out minor repairs.

Passenger front seat removed, I'll need help to hang this up to paint.
Found one spring missing underneath so I need to find a spring that's about the same size & strength.

The Jesus bar on the back of the passenger seat is missing so I'll have to make a replacement, the one on the drivers seat will give me rough dimensions.
Quite a tight bend at each end so I'll have to get out the oxy at work and make some tooling. I'll pack the tube with sand & weld endcaps on.

While the seat's out I'll remove the centre tool tray and fit the Rocky Mountain overdrive, the tool tray then needs cutting down before re-fitting.

The list is getting longer rather than shorter......


Colin

[gromit]

Cooma is only a few short months away!

Rapidly running out of time.....
Option 2, tow the Series I
Option 3, drive the Defender

The Dormy starts runs & drives, once the brakes are finished it'll stop as well...
Just a case of prioritising what 'needs' to be done & what would be 'nice' to be done.
Seats were torn therefore not really 'roadworthy' so had to be done.
Seatbelts need to be installed.
Roof lining is under development,Masonite bent just need to work out whether to cover with vinyl or maybe just paint.

Went to the spring shop today.
Turns out the seat base & seat back have the same overall size spring but different wire size.
Springs are pre-coiled in lengths. Measure, cut to length, bend the ends.....job done.
Total cost $4

Investigated mass loaded vinyl instead of Hardura, went to a company but they will only supply by the 10m roll.
I have a supplier of Hardura but it's not quite the same as the Hardura fitted to Land Rovers (more in my Hardura thread).
Made contact with someone else who may be able to help, should know next week.


Colin

[gromit]

Rocky Mountain overdrive installed.
Found that the gearlever bracket is NQR so need to make a new one, it put the gearlever hard against the seatbox so the new bracket will move it forward.
The gearstick was missing so I'll make one. Looked on Ebay for a gear knob and they are very expensive so it may end up with an '8 ball' knob in the short term.

Made a tooltray from cornflake packets, need to open it back out and transfer to some sheet steel. If I can bend it up, a colleague will spot weld it together.

Still working on the front passenger seat. A bit more complex than the drivers seat so lots of pictures before I take it apart to paint.


Colin

[gromit]

After a trial fitting of the overdrive selector linkage and a couple of emails to Global Roamer it seems the selector linkage might be partly from a Toro.
The mounting bracket is too short so I'll make a new one and hope I can get it sorted.

Ray at Global Roamer has been very helpful.

The rivet squeezer & dies turned up from the UK, just waiting for the rivets now.

Colin

[drfish]

Investigated mass loaded vinyl instead of Hardura, went to a company but they will only supply by the 10m roll.


Surely that just means you just need to buy a few more Land Rovers to use it up on [emoji23][emoji23]

[gromit]

Surely that just means you just need to buy a few more Land Rovers to use it up on [emoji23][emoji23]

I'm told that 6 is more than enough.
Problem at the moment is that my tow car was written off and I'm waiting for a new one so I'd have to borrow my old tow car back from the wife !

Yesterday I collected some vinyl that looks similar to the surface of hardura, basically offcuts from a company I deal with.
This will give a hard wearing, easy to clean surface that won't hold water, just not sure if it will reduce noise at all. I'll probably have to buy some Hardura for the transmission tunnel as the vinyl will be difficult the bend & sew.


Colin

[gromit]

Easily distracted from working on the Dormobile.......collected some Land Rover parts tonight.
Bamford winch, pair of parabolic springs (not sure what for), big box of assorted nuts & bolts plus a SWB roof.

The roof & door seal rivets turned up. $100 of rivets comes in a very small packet, to be fair post made up some of that cost.

Christmas is getting closer, need to order paint for the roof !

Colin

[gromit]

Well 2-pack paint is more expensive than I thought ! Luckily Limestone 007 was in their system because they were too busy to colour match the light green body colour till the New Year, they matched it a few years back but then changed paint suppliers. Different pigments so they have to match again.

Underseat tool tray made, not as neat as I'd like but it will do. Just needs painting.

The floor covering/sound deadening material I was given is too thick to bend in a tight 90degrees. I took it down to the Woodwork Club and used a narrow convex moulding plane (probably much older than me) to cut a relief in the rear of the material. Looks like it will now take a tight bend. I'll post a picture when I remember.

Busy installing seatbelts....sorry re-installing seatbelts, I'm sure they were always there when I purchased the vehicle.
Belts are Securon from Paddocks, only problem I had was that the inertia reels come with a stalk and I needed something flexible as the seats in the Dormy fold down, ended up buying 4 extra lap belts to get what I needed.
Still low cost and AU/NZ approved. I now have 4 lap belts with stalks spare.

Once the tool tray is painted and installed I can re-fit the front passenger seat.

Last day at work today but back on 3rd Jan, hope to get a lot done next week.


Colin

[gromit]

Under seat tool tray fine tuned, just need to paint then screw/bond into place.

Overdrive gearstick fitted but the 'Lucky 8' gear knob is a bit on the large size.

Colin

[gromit]

Tool tray installed (after I remembered to fill the overdrive !).

Found a lid for the storage area near the passenger door but in Spanish Olive. I had to cut the back edge because of the mounting bracket for the Dormobile seat getting in the way.
The lid latch has to be moved as it didn't line up with the latch on the front of the seatbox. Not sure if this is Series III vs.Series II thing or it just depended on who was assembling the vehicle.

The outer storage area has a recess for a battery so I'll put the 'house' battery there at some point in the future. Low on the priority list at the moment.

Next I need to make new Masonite backs for the front seats and cover them, the kit from Exmoor came with enough Elephant Hide material. Then I need to look at the pictures of the seat to re-assemble.

Tried to fit the drivers inertia reel seatbelt and hit a problem. There is an auxiliary tank under the seat and it gets in the way, I need to drop this to fit the mount for the inertia reel !!


Colin

[gromit]

Passenger seat now re-installed.
There was a leak from the overdrive so the tool tray had to come out, noticed that I hadn't allowed enough room for the overdrive selector arm so had to modify the tray while it was out.
Hopefully drop the fuel tank next and fit the remaining seatbelts.

Colin

[gromit]

After moving a lot of parts that have accumulated round Walter I managed to drive him out of the garage & remove the under-seat auxiliary fuel tank.

Found that my old trolley jack wouldn't hold pressure, I think the young bloke used it and left an automatic gearbox sitting on it for days ! Something else to take apart & fix, fortunately I have a backup trolley jack.
Need to paint a few rust spots on the tank so it will go back in once painted. Also need to check out the main tank, the auxiliary tank doesn't have a sender but the changeover tap is within reach !

Seatbelt mounts fitted, just one rear mount to sort out. The strap from the inertia reel hangs loose on the two rear seats as the reel is mounted quite high and so is the mounting by the door. Will either have to live with them being loose or shorten them [bigwhistle]

Removed some brackets between the front dumb irons, I think the previous owner had a toolbox fitted there. I have a capstan winch that needs a drive shaft and repairs to the fairlead roller brackets to fit.
Also need to remove some brackets from the back but it means taking the cupboard out with the sink & stove. The 'Four Wheel Drive Station Wagon' badge has been removed so I need to find one of those from somewhere.....

Need to get onto replacing the last couple of brake lines then the nearside wing can be re-fitted, I'll probably just etch prime the repair for now.


Colin

[gromit]

Decided to paint the brackets where the auxiliary tank mounts to the chassis (tank has been painted), investigated & removed some wiring that wasn't being used.
Found a rust hole inside the front of the drivers side rear wheelarch. Problem is it's in the sideframe that comprises the lower A pillar, B pillar & lower C pillar which will be a pain to remove so I'll have to repair in situ for now. I have replacement S/H side frames but they need some minor repairs.
It looks like it would be possible to put a mudflap inside the wheelarch to keep a lot of the dirt & stones away from the chassis & sideframe. I just need to decide whether to use rubber or aluminium.

There had been a Smiths heater fitted in the past but it was removed before I purchased Walter.
Found one in my collection of parts, fingers crossed the core doesn't leak.

Decided to investigate the rear panel damage, removed the piece of aluminium someone had fitted then started on the lights so I could remove the remains of the corner capping.
Had a bit of a surprise when I removed the cover on the inside that protects the tail light wiring !! Not sure how that much dirt can build up, there is a lot of red dust & grit so Walter must have been on a few outback trips.
I intend to make a bracket to go on the inside then, using the existing holes in the bodywork, attach it to a hand winch and apply pressure as I try to get it back into shape.

As I've mentioned previously, every time I start one job I find at least two more that need doing.


Colin

[gromit]

We had family visitors today but I hoped to get to work on the Dormobile in the afternoon.
With the dry weather and a bit of wind I cleared leaves from the pool multiple times, fighting a losing battle.....

Then the rain came, a brief 'storm' that had the spouting overflowing so I knew when it stopped I had to get a ladder out & start clearing spouting.
I wandered down the back of the property and heard a cracking sound, looking up a large branch moved ! It was partly over the back shed where three Land Rovers are stored !!
Rushed inside, grabbed one of my boys and then got some Telstra rope.
Tied a weight to the end of the rope and Mitchell managed to throw it over the branch on the second attempt. I was hoping when I slackened the rope that it would slide down the opposite side of the branch but no, it hung up.
Carefully pulling on it (being careful in case it came loose and the weight became a projectile) we pulled and managed to guide the branch away from the shed.
It neatly blocked all three Land Rovers from getting out of the shed.

Cleared the spouting then made a start on clearing up the tree, only one Land Rover blocked in now.

Back to work tomorrow so work on Walter will slow down.


Colin

[Tins]

Lucky with that branch, Colin. I had one come down off a big messmate. Took out the back shed, but also took out my 1969 FIAT 124AC Coupé. Ruined.

[gromit]

Lucky with that branch, Colin. I had one come down off a big messmate. Took out the back shed, but also took out my 1969 FIAT 124AC Coupé. Ruined.

Last year the top came out of the same tree, wrecked the chook run and took ages to clear up.
Luckily damage to sheds has been minor over the years (I typed that with my fingers crossed).

Sorry to hear the Fiat was ruined.


Colin

[gromit]

Re-fitted the auxiliary tank today and checked out the main tank.
Removed the main tank drain plug and nothing came out, fished around with my finger and no corrosion or debris so annealed a new copper washer and refitted the drain plug. No fuel leaks so I need to add some more fuel, check the gauge works and then try changing over to the main tank and see that everything works OK.

Cleaned the sedimenter bowl on the fuel pump and replaced the element in the fuel filter. Not sure the filter is standard, it's the same as the one fitted to my FFR.
Replaced the spark plugs, the ones removed were sooty but it's only getting started & moved in & out of the garage at the moment. Once the brakes are finished I can take it on a run.

Removed one of the rear seats ready for painting & re-upholstering. It also allowed me to add a seatbelt mount. Just one more to add when I remove the other rear seat.

Noticed that the seals under the rear side panels have disintegrated, you can post letters through the gap. Probably explains the mud behind the rear light panel. So even if I don't get round to painting the roof I need to lift it to remove the rear side panels & fit new seals.

Checked out the jerry can holders on the front bumper, Used a car jack to bend them back into shape, now need to come up with a way of securing the Jerry's in place.


Colin

[jerryd]

I'm assuming you don't have the gas bottle cradle under the driver's seat Colin ?? I removed the cradle from mine and installed a custom built water tank in between the chassis rails. I also modified the seat box. Now under the driver's seat I have a storage box, a tool tray in the center and under the passenger seat houses the dual batteries.

I noticed your rubber seal had gone [bighmmm] mine was the same but I replaced them when I took the roof off. Good luck repairing the rear corner, mine was slightly worse but a local guy (panel beater) fixed it and did a reasonably good job.

I've just spent a few days over xmas prepping and painting panels, not the easiest vehicle to prep I must say. I think the doortops were the most time consuming. Today I started prepping the last corner which is only slightly dented [happycry]

The hole is where the shower assembly fits, removed to get access to the dent under the rear lights

[gromit]

I'm assuming you don't have the gas bottle cradle under the driver's seat Colin ?? I removed the cradle from mine and installed a custom built water tank in between the chassis rails. I also modified the seat box. Now under the driver's seat I have a storage box, a tool tray in the center and under the passenger seat houses the dual batteries.

I noticed your rubber seal had gone [bighmmm] mine was the same but I replaced them when I took the roof off. Good luck repairing the rear corner, mine was slightly worse but a local guy (panel beater) fixed it and did a reasonably good job.

I've just spent a few days over xmas prepping and painting panels, not the easiest vehicle to prep I must say. I think the doortops were the most time consuming. Today I started prepping the last corner which is only slightly dented [happycry]

The hole is where the shower assembly fits, removed to get access to the dent under the rear lights


Hi Jerry,
Yes the gas bottle was removed from under the drivers seat, it was in the bottom of the wardrobe !!
I'm not sure where to reinstate it. A previous owner has made some large rear bumpers, a bit like the 'scone cutters' on Series II military Land Rovers. I was wondering about mounting it on one of those but not sure of the legality.
The bumpers are different sizes and made of aluminium so I might re-make them in steel.

Mine has had lots of modifications, some minor and some major. I'm busy removing brackets and bits of aluminium that I have no idea what they were originally for. Latches have been cut off seats, the window behind the wardrobe blanked off with a sheet of aluminium and the original Silent Gliss curtain rails were replaced with some rubbish track which I threw away some time ago. I managed to get the Silent Gliss rails from a Volkswagen parts supplier in the UK.

I have a new sink to fit and need to check the gas stove. I think it's the original but missing the grill tray.

If it makes it to Cooma there will still be a lot to be finished !

Colin

PS: I sent you a PM regarding the table brackets

[gromit]

One rear seat stripped ready for sanding & re-painting.

Lots of hog rings holding the interior sprung section to the backrest frame, 22 in total.
Slipping the cover over the backrest will be fun as it was a struggle to get the old one off.


Colin

[gromit]

Managed to remove the wardrobe this morning so that I can start unbolting the roof.
I think I've decided that I don't have time to take the roof completely off, I'll have to remove the cap and paint the roof in situ. I'll lift it to replace seals under the sidepanels & windscreen.

I did put the roof up and clean the 'canvas'. There's some stitching that needs to be repaired and a couple of small holes. Disconnecting it from the cap looks like fun, in fact re fitting it to the cap will be the hard part.

The opening window in the roof seems to have a home made lid. Original would have been moulded acrylic whereas this is aluminium.

The window behind the wardrobe is blanked off but there was something stored behind the wardrobe in the window aperture. Turned out to be two pieces of aluminium and two pieces of perspex ??. I picked broken glass out of the window runners on the other side so maybe the previous owner carried these to repair a broken window in future ??

Pulled out the gas pipe from the wardrobe across under the vehicle to the kitchen. Need to think about where I mount a gas bottle in future.

The odd rear bumpers will be replaced, I'll make something similar but in steel rather than aluminium (and make them the same both sides !).

[gromit]

Managed to get one rear sidepanel off. A few bolts above the kitchen were difficult.
Dropped some long bolts through a few of the mounting holes so the roof couldn't move too far then used a screw jack and a length of wood to lift one side, lowered it back down onto a piece of wood once the panel was removed.

Top & bottom seal are originals and have set solid, should be fun trying to remove them !! Then I need to replace the window runners, the glass won't move at present, looks like the window hasn't been opened for many years.

Removed an ancient fire extinguisher, made in England....I wonder if it was fitted back in '65 ? Anyway it's removed and an up-to-date one will be fitted.


Colin

[gromit]

After a couple of evenings scraping out rubber seals and struggling to remove screws the sidepanel is ready for re-assembly.
There is that much red dust & dirt I might pressure wash it first.
The screws for the window runners all came out without too much butchery, I did have to sharpen a screwdriver and one screw I used a cutting disk in a Dremel to clean out the slot.

I have new seals & window runners so after cleaning I can re-assemble them move on to the other sidepanel which is a bit easier having no window.

Thanks to cjc_td5 I have a 'Four Wheel Drive Station Wagon' badge to fit. I cleaned it up and there was no black paint left so I need to decide whether to paint or not. Picture below with it held on with BluTack.
Interestingly no holes in the body for the badge so there was never one fitted, also when I sit it under the Land Rover badge it doesn't sit level.
I guess when you ordered the Station Wagon for conversion the roof with Alpine windows was optioned out and maybe other items were added/deleted before the vehicle went to Dormobile. Most others I've seen have the badge.

Colin

[gromit]

Managed a couple of jobs on the Dormobile this weekend in between gardening, fixing things and making stuff for the local Scout group.

Two rear bumpers made, both the same size rather than the odd ones that were fitted.
My strip bender struggled with 5mm X 100mm steel. Fortunately it's bolted down to the floor so I sat on the floor and pushed with my feet ! Chequer plate was some scrap I had from modifying a trailer some time back.
Once I'm happy with the fitment I'll paint them and also the rear crossmember.

Just enough room on them for a brew but I might make a thin aluminium head shield to keep the heat away from the paintwork.

Jet washed the rear sidepanel and found the window runners. Next job fit the runners & seals.

Painted the rear seat frame after welding on a bracket for the latch. This had been cut off by a previous owner.
Because of the way the seat folds I'll have to let the paint dry, move the seat position and paint a few spots that have been missed.

Need to get some nuts, bolts & self tappers, time to visit the bolt shop.....

Colin

[gromit]

You may have noticed from various pictures that a previous owner liked to be seen and painted lots of components white on the front & rear of the Dormobile.
This has niggled me since I purchased it so I'm doing something about it.

Stripped the rear crossmember yesterday and will paint it black. There were a couple of grommets in the crossmember, when removed a lot of red dust & grit was extracted.
Rear steps painted black and some reflectors purchased.
The mudflaps have been painted white and look horrible. I spoke with a customer and I can get some pieces of conveyor belting from him to make replacements.

Tonight I fitted the window channels in the rear sidepanel and depending how hot it gets tomorrow will fit seals and re-install. I purchased the correct lower seal with a profile to fit under the aluminium retaining strip. Tried it out and it doesn't fit that well, it would have to be glued in place !! I still have some rectangular section foam extrusion so I'll probably fit that instead.


Colin

[gromit]

Both rear sidepanels are now fitted with new seals and back in place.

Next it was time to lift the front of the roof to replace seals at top & bottom of windscreen.
A piece of wood each side on a screw jack lifted the roof enough to swing the windscreen forward

Wiring that goes through the windscreen frame into the roof frame limited movement (this is for the 'roof up' warning lamp).

Horrible job removing old seals plus silicon & mastic that had been used to fix leaks over the years. Ended up digging out an old heat gun, this softened the old rubber and allowed it to be removed a bit easier.
Stuck the top seal in place with a few blobs of Sikaflex.

Next I looked at the vent seals, drivers side had been replaced in the past, passenger side looked original (and badly decomposed). Heat gun again and then the struggle to fit a new seal ! I'd read that this job is a pain and I can confirm it is......fingers crossed it settles into place.

Hopefully the roof will get bolted back together during the week.

I'm about 2 weeks away from getting a replacement MUX, the last one was written off back in October. I've now spent more time in a rental than I did in the MUX when I got it.


Colin

[gromit]

Roof bolted back on, over 30 bolts !
Rear bumpers/steps fitted and rear crossmember tidied up.

Need to get back to the rear seat I've removed and paint a few parts of the frame I missed.

I should be able to collect the conveyor belting tomorrow so I can make some rear mudflaps.

The roof won't be getting painted now, too much to do if I'm driving Walter to Cooma. Smiths heater & winch may also have to wait for another day, mind you installing the heater is probably fairly straightforward as one had been fitted in the past.
The winch is a possibility if I can either find a driveshaft or a Series I clutch operating shaft. The splines are identical on the Series I shaft so cutting & welding two shafts together could allow me to fit the winch....problem is finding another shaft.

Need to re-visit the bolt shop for screws to fit the headlining when I've bent the main section.

The 'to-do' list keeps growing...


Colin

[86mud]

Nice work Colin. Will you have this one ready for Cooma?

[gromit]

Nice work Colin. Will you have this one ready for Cooma?

That's the plan. Problem is there is more & more I keep finding to fix before I head off.

Mind you for the 60th I got the Series I running about two weeks before I left for Cooma. Blokes I work with were having bets on how for I got before I came home on a tilt-tray. It made it there & back with a couple of minor issues.


Colin

[gromit]

Lots of small jobs done over the weekend.

Jerry can holders stripped of white paint and locking mechanisms made so the Jerry cans can't be stolen.

Conveyor belt mudflaps made, the original white painted ones put in the bin !

Drivers side wing re-assembled. I can't find the bolts and bonnet stay bracket, must have put them somewhere very safe !

Paint ordered to tidy up some interior panels. Acrylic paint now nearly $100 per litre. I also ordered a rattle can of satin, the hope is that I can touch up a few areas on the outside without them standing out too much.

I need to get the main Masonite roof panel bent, next problem is some sort of covering for the Masonite. I decided to buy some paint that is for wet areas and hope to be able to apply with a textured finish which will be easier than trying to cover with vinyl.
Edging moulding sourced from a customer that makes extruded profiles for the caravan industry.

Ordered some parts from the UK, freight is becoming expensive.

This weekend I'll get onto finishing the brakes, fitting the drivers side wing (when I find the bolts) and straightening out the rear corner.


Colin

[gromit]

After helping out at the local Scout Hall, gardening & washing cars I found some time to work on Walter.

Decided I need to get moving with the headlining.
Wet it down with a watering can several times then the fun started.....Trying to get the formers into place & clamped with the Masonite in the correct position took a lot of attempts.
I'll leave it clamped up for a few days to dry out.
There is a degree of 'spring back' so I may have to wet it down & re-clamp again.

I need to think about any wiring that needs to go behind the headlining before I install it. Maybe I should add a light over the front seats and run some power cables down to the kitchen.

I fitted the 'Four Wheel Drive Station Wagon' badge after removing & re-fitting the Land Rover badge to get it level. Touched up where the badge fits with the satin spray paint and it doesn't look too bad.



Colin

[jerryd]

After helping out at the local Scout Hall, gardening & washing cars I found some time to work on Walter.

Decided I need to get moving with the headlining.
Wet it down with a watering can several times then the fun started.....Trying to get the formers into place & clamped with the Masonite in the correct position took a lot of attempts.
I'll leave it clamped up for a few days to dry out.
There is a degree of 'spring back' so I may have to wet it down & re-clamp again.

I need to think about any wiring that needs to go behind the headlining before I install it. Maybe I should add a light over the front seats and run some power cables down to the kitchen.

I fitted the 'Four Wheel Drive Station Wagon' badge after removing & re-fitting the Land Rover badge to get it level. Touched up where the badge fits with the satin spray paint and it doesn't look too bad.



Colin

All good fun Colin [wink11] I'm now bolting things back on too.

[gromit]

Drivers side wing re-fitted, I still have some filling to do but the worst of the dent was removed.

Re-instated the bonnet lock, this is a hasp from a Land Rover toolbox lid.

Did some more work inside getting ready for the headlining. Timber battens screwed in place, the headlining is attached to the batten by screws through the Silent Gliss curtain rails.


Colin

[gromit]

As Cooma gets closer I'm thinking I should service the Tanami in case the Dormobile isn't ready.

I have to do a head gasket on one of the boys cars tomorrow, Toyota Corona with a Starfire motor, lost compression on No 2. Hopefully it's just the gasket and not something more serious !
Then I have to go to a Scout event, SWMBO is a Cub Scout leader and I get roped in to make things (I really don't have time at the moment but.....). Just finished a stand to hold 6 flagpoles and have to finish off a storage box and mount some shelves at the new Scout Hall.

Fitted a new brake light switch today. Trying to undo it was worrying as the brass connection block is only held to the chassis with one bolt. I ended up putting a big G-clamp over the chassis rail to clamp the connection block while I struggled to undo the switch.

I purchased some parts from Paddocks that arrived earlier in the week, one item was a new rubber for the rear step. Got the opportunity to use my rivet squeezer setting the semi-tubular rivets (not supplied with the rubber, I had them in stock). It made the job very easy once the tools had been packed to get the correct 'squeeze'.
I need another step for the drivers side (there is one on the passenger side). When I say 'need' I mean I'd like to fit one.
I have one from a Series III and it's different to the one fitted on the passenger side, I guess this is due to the sill depth changing from Series II to III.

Installed some new spring bolts, I'd fitted new bushes in all the springs some time back but hadn't got round to replacing all the bolts.

Made some plates to go inside & outside the damaged corner. I'll attach it to another car with a hand winch and apply some tension while I panel beat the corner. I need to get it straight enough to fit a replacement corner capping. The capping came from a Series III I parted out years ago, the rivet holes are in slightly different positions to the one that was removed which means opening out some holes.
Then the wardrobe needs to come out while I set the rivets.
Once that's done the lights can go back in and I can bolt the wardrobe back in place.

The list is still getting longer rather than shorter........

Colin

[gromit]

Well I lost most of Sunday but I now know a lot more about the Starfire motor. The Corona is back on the road.
Later this week I have to go to the top of VIC on business. Either a very long day or a stopover, either way another evening gone.

I tried pulling the damage at the rear out but most of the spot welds had been broken for years so it just pulled apart. I've put some M5 screws through the rivet holes to tie the corner together while I beat it back to something close to the original shape so I can fit the corner capping.

Collected a 1 kg fire extinguisher today (on special @ Bunnings), just need to work out the best place to fit it. Also got a caramel wheel to try & remove Sikaflex that's been used to hold door seals in place.

The opening windows on the rear doors have insect screens fitted. Stainless steel strip surrounds with flywire glued in place. Holes in the st/st strips fit over screws in the door and plastic latches swivel to hold it in place.
UV has wrecked all the clips..... They are held in place by tubular brass rivets, managed to order some from China. A mate at work is looking at 3D printing the clips for me.

Interior light arrived, much bigger that I expected (mental note....check the dimensions next time) need to fit it to the headlining. Also got a couple of LED strip lights for the rear section.



Colin

[gromit]

The weekend went fast. Working at the Scout Hall, cleaning cars, gardening.............

The mudshield in the passenger side wing had rusted badly where water & debris had been trapped.
The footwell is OK so need to de-rust it but the mudshield needed a section cut out & a patch welded in.

I'll strip then rust treat and paint before re-fitting.

The heat shield for the exhaust manifold was loose & rattling around behind the engine, lucky it hadn't been lost.

The bracket at the back that bolts to the manifold had fractured so I made a replacement, the other bolts were missing. The holes in the inlet manifold needed a tap run through to clean them out then I had to find a couple of bolts.

Later I found another heat shield in amongst my spares so I could have pinched the bracket from that one !


Colin

[gromit]

Sorted out some of the wiring at the rear drivers side.
Removed insulation tape, packing tape plus several dodgy connections and soldered on new bullet connectors.
Removed the trailer plug wiring as it was made up of two twin core cables and one separate cable. I have some 7-core so I'll make up a new cable with bullet connectors to join into the harness, better than the cutting/splicing/soldering that I removed.

The tail light lenses have been damaged by sunlight. Sort of a matt surface with the red colour bleached a bit.
I found a couple of replacements but.....I need one with a transparent lower section to illuminate the rego plate and the ones I found were from a Series III that had a separate light for the rego plate !
Spoke to one of my boys as he's polished some headlamps on a car he was selling, I thought he'd purchased a polishing kit. Turns out he'd use a few fine grades of wet & dry and then some cut & polish.
I sanded in a bowl of water, flushing the area sanded. I had 800, 1500 & 2000 grades to hand so I used those and then a cut & polish. Looks OK but still a bit faded.
Found some red lens dye on Ebay, I might have to get some to deal with the bleaching.


Colin

[1950landy]

Sorted out some of the wiring at the rear drivers side.
Removed insulation tape, packing tape plus several dodgy connections and soldered on new bullet connectors.
Removed the trailer plug wiring as it was made up of two twin core cables and one separate cable. I have some 7-core so I'll make up a new cable with bullet connectors to join into the harness, better than the cutting/splicing/soldering that I removed.

The tail light lenses have been damaged by sunlight. Sort of a matt surface with the red colour bleached a bit.
I found a couple of replacements but.....I need one with a transparent lower section to illuminate the rego plate and the ones I found were from a Series III that had a separate light for the rego plate !
Spoke to one of my boys as he's polished some headlamps on a car he was selling, I thought he'd purchased a polishing kit. Turns out he'd use a few fine grades of wet & dry and then some cut & polish.
I sanded in a bowl of water, flushing the area sanded. I had 800, 1500 & 2000 grades to hand so I used those and then a cut & polish. Looks OK but still a bit faded.
Found some red lens dye on Ebay, I might have to get some to deal with the bleaching.


Colin
I tried to send you a PM but don't think it sent. I may have some new lenses will check my stock later today & let you know, will also try to send another PM when I have checked. I do know the ones I have suit UK built/ sold vehicles which I assume the Dormobiles were & not AU built.
Wayne.

[1950landy]

OK, have checked I have the Wipac S170 (14096) Lents but they are indicator (orange) I did have the Red but they are all gone. I also have Lucas L761 Red. Sorry for getting your hopes up. If you need any of the indicator Lentes let me know. Will send you a PM if it works, having major issues with my internet connection so may not work.
Wayne

[gromit]

OK, have checked I have the Wipac S170 (14096) Lents but they are indicator (orange) I did have the Red but they are all gone. I also have Lucas L761 Red. Sorry for getting your hopes up. If you need any of the indicator Lentes let me know. Will send you a PM if it works, having major issues with my internet connection so may not work.
Wayne

Many thanks for looking Wayne.
The sidelights & indicators are Sparto from memory, they have a slightly pointy shape.
Managed to get sidelight lenses at the 70th and indicator lenses from a LR garage in the UK a couple of years ago.

The Wipac S170 is the correct tail light, I thought that they were only in red. They have a clear section on the Dormobile but some that were fitted to a Series III I parted out are all red.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/HYgAAOSwpOZgRQCx/s-l1600.jpg

Just found a thread where you posted pictures
Series IIa sidelights & indicators (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-ii-and-iia/214676-series-iia-sidelights-indicators.html)


I'll send you a PM with my email address, no PM's have arrived.


Colin

[gromit]

Managed to get the rear corner capping fitted.
Still some work to be done where the metal was stretched but it looks a lot better than the odd bits of aluminium that had been bolted over the damaged corner.
All the lights now work, just need to re-fit the trailer plug and wire in a high level brake light I've fitted.

Wardrobe bolted back in place.

Fitted some vinyl to the rear edge of the front seatbox and fitted the seatbelts for the front seats.

There is a cover over the fuel tank cap that was held closed by a wire that went inside the wardrobe. Not that convenient when you want to fill up so I removed this and fitted a lock to the cover.

Fitted the repainted airfilter.

Was going to replace the hoses and coolant but found that I didn't have a bottom hose 'in stock'. I did find an old one so I'll head down to Supercheap and have a rummage to see if I can find one that will fit.

Still lots to do.....


Colin

[gromit]

I undercoated the Masonite headliner last night.
It was left in the formers for a few weeks to thoroughly dry and is holding it's shape, there are some shorter sections down the sides of the opening roof I need to bend but they can wait. I also found that there was a Masonite panel above the rear door, this had been removed and a roll of plastic stored there, I guess a groundsheet when an awning was put on the back. That reminds me, there are some 'teeth' on the rear of the roof that need to be removed, these must have been for the awning.

Next I thought I'd fit the wiper arms & new blades and check the wiper motors.
Passenger side worked OK but the drivers side was very, very slow. I'm hoping I can pull the wiper motor apart and free things up otherwise I guess there are two options.
1. Find another wiper motor (might be difficult).
2. Move the passenger wiper to the drivers side and say that the passenger side was never fitted.

I'm not sure when the passenger side wiper became a requirement.

More work to do and rapidly running out of time.
This weekend is a long one but I'm losing a day cleaning spouting and cutting back branches that overhang the roof (the roof is getting re-painted next week).

Might think about servicing the Defender........


Colin

[JDNSW]

........
I'm not sure when the passenger side wiper became a requirement.

.....

Colin

It probably depends on the state - when I moved my NT registered 1961 2a from Alice to Sydney in 1966, I had to fit a LH wiper.

[gromit]

It probably depends on the state - when I moved my NT registered 1961 2a from Alice to Sydney in 1966, I had to fit a LH wiper.

Thanks John.
It's already registered so if I can't fix the drivers side motor I can put it on the passenger side and claim it was working OK when I last used it !

I've just got some 3D printed gaskets/seals for the motor in a flexible material (someone at work printed them for me).
The Bakelite insulator (or was it rubber that has gone hard ?) where the power is fed through is more difficult as the original has a brass block moulded into it. The 3D print file had the block with a hole for a wire, If I use this I'll have to use a bullet connector although an online supplier puts a bolt through the hole Kit Wiper Motor Insulating Terminal LAND ROVER Series 1 2 Lucas FW2 Insulators | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/115647700091?chn=ps&_ul=AU&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=115647700091&targetid=1741701787418&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9112717&poi=&campaignid=18278742238&mkgroupid=141565058112&rlsatarget=pla-1741701787418&abcId=9301725&merchantid=7364522&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu-Dt8PHP_QIVLZVLBR2YMgO3EAQYAiABEgLK_fD_BwE)

I did find replica blocks at over $60
Series 1 2 2a Land Rover Lucas FW2 Wiper Motor Insulator Block Rubber Complete | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285129086183?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1WB8_TkkdSdWdmT9fDIDjfg65&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=285129086183&targetid=1740279243809&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9112717&poi=&campaignid=18277121424&mkgroupid=142426603833&rlsatarget=pla-1740279243809&abcId=9301724&merchantid=494541570&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIu-Dt8PHP_QIVLZVLBR2YMgO3EAQYASABEgKsovD_BwE)

Fingers crossed it's just old grease being too viscous causing the problem.


Colin

[JDNSW]

It is probably the grease or dry bearings.

[Tins]

It is probably the grease or dry bearings.

Pretty poor, really. After all, it's only 60 years old.

[gromit]

Spent Saturday on the house roof cleaning spouting and cutting back overhanging branches, just a big pile of branches to tidy up.

I removed the passenger footwell 'snorkel', it was made from a series of large plumbing fittings and what looked like a sink outlet.
I guess it was designed to bring air into the footwell but needed a plug installed if it was raining.

I had to make a new blanking plate for the bulkhead and also blank off the hole in the wing.

Took a few measurements and cut a hole in the transmission tunnel for the overdrive lever. The floor panels & transmission tunnel need painting next.

Installed some vinyl in place of the rotten Hardura. I will have to buy some Hardura for the transmission tunnel but everywhere else the vinyl looks similar to the hardura but won't hold water & rot !

[gromit]

Bled the brakes yesterday.
One leak from a slave cylinder, couldn't have fully tightened the tube nut years ago when I overhauled the axle !

Long travel on the pedal, went round and adjusted all 4 brakes but didn't get much better. Possibly needs a decent run and some braking to bed in the shoes.

I'm now looking for an on/off valve to allow me to connect the Smiths heater back in.
I have a couple of brass valves, tapered seat metal to metal seal but they are 1/2" BSP. Looking for a 3/8" alternative without much luck.

Colin

[gromit]

Managed to get home early tonight so painted the floor panels, transmission tunnel and toolbox lid.

Need to hunt down a tap for the heater, a local company has suitable 1/4" BSP taps but not 3/8" BSP.
I could fit a ball valve or gate valve but trying to find the temperature rating for them is a struggle, not a question most people ask so sales staff don't know.


Colin

[gromit]

Corowa at the weekend for the military event so not much done on the Dormobile.

Dropped the coolant and removed the hoses, perished after 5 years (I think they were from Paddocks). Series II hoses now sourced locally, Mackay CH402 is the top hose and CH588 the bottom hose. They fit better than the Britpart ones and hopefully last longer.
Tap installed for the heater, once the transmission tunnel is back in place I can fit the Smiths heater, plumb it in and then replace the coolant.

One rear seat re-upholstered and re-fitted, need to move the Dormy out of the garage to remove the other rear seat for painting & re-upholstering.

New battery fitted, I was using a secondhand one which was struggling a bit when starting (hopefully it isn't the starter motor !)

A mate arrived from the UK into Sydney yesterday, Melbourne next Tuesday. He'll be my co-driver for the trip to Cooma. Better think about booking tickets......


Colin

[86mud]

Will the Dormobile be ready for cooma?

[gromit]

Will the Dormobile be ready for cooma?

Hmmmm.......probably.

There's a lot to do and not much time left.
If I can sort the brakes, tidy some of the electrics, replace a few door seals, replace the floor, make some floor mats, install the headlining, fit the heater.....then maybe.

I test drove it prior to purchase, the engine & gearbox had been overhauled (not sure what was done though). It starts OK and will stop OK when I get a few test drives and make some adjustments.

There's loads of little things I'd like to do like remove & tidy the door cards, replace window runners, fix the roof, paint the roof....Problem with a Station Wagon is that there is a lot to check & possibly repair, even more in a Dormobile.
There were so many modifications to this one with odd metric bolts, cheap pressed steel nuts, strange aluminium brackets. All had a purpose at one point or another but now just look odd.



Colin

[gromit]

I've attached a picture of the LH rear seat installed.

Got home early tonight, backed the Dormy out and removed the RH rear seat.
Took it down the local Woodwork Club (Mens Shed) to clean & sand. Lots of trim clips to remove, an old knife & a hammer dealt with them, all will be re-used.

The space where the seat fits needs a good clean plus I have to install the lower seatbelt mount.

I should be able to finish sanding/cleaning the seat frame tomorrow and paint on Friday.


Colin

[gromit]

Fitted the floor & transmission tunnel today.
Next I installed the Smiths heater and ran pipes to it then filled the cooling system and ran the engine for a while. No leaks and the heater got warm.
The manual on/off valve I found was 1/4" BSP rather than 3/8" and the hole through it not that large, anyway seems to do the job for the time being.

Installed the rear RH passenger seatbelt, then made some mats for the front footwells.

There are a couple of wires hanging down where the Smiths heater is mounted, there had been a heater fitted in the past. Found 12V from one wire and nothing from the other wire (checked and it wasn't an earth wire), found that a heater switch had been fitted but.....it doesn't seem to work properly. Another job on the list as it would be nice to have a demister.

Hope to be test driving soon.....

Colin

[Gippslander]

Just a thought that small shifter hanging on the ignition key might be a bit much over time old mate

[gromit]

Just a thought that small shifter hanging on the ignition key might be a bit much over time old mate

The shifter was a reminder to replace the battery terminal, I've now fitted a manual isolator on the battery so the shifter will be removed.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/medias/sys_master/images/images/9859232595998/HC4038-heavy-duty-isolating-battery-terminalImageMain-515.jpg

Be careful buying these, good ones are brass but I picked up one somewhere that's aluminium anodised gold to look like brass !

Anyway.....back to work. Some wiring to do and either repair or replace the heater switch. Found them in the UK for about 80GBP !
Land Rover Series 1 2 Dash Smiths Heater Control Genuine Lucas BHA4278
– Emberton Imperial (https://embertonimperial.com/en-au/products/land-rover-series-1-2-dash-smiths-heater-control-genuine-lucas-bha4278-rheostat)

Seems they were fitted to a lot of UK vehicles, I'll have a hunt through my spares but I don't recall seeing one.

Colin




If it can't be repaired I'll fit an ON/OFF switch.

[1950landy]

The shifter was a reminder to replace the battery terminal, I've now fitted a manual isolator on the battery so the shifter will be removed.
https://www.jaycar.com.au/medias/sys_master/images/images/9859232595998/HC4038-heavy-duty-isolating-battery-terminalImageMain-515.jpg

Be careful buying these, good ones are brass but I picked up one somewhere that's aluminium anodised gold to look like brass !

Anyway.....back to work. Some wiring to do and either repair or replace the heater switch. Found them in the UK for about 80GBP !
Land Rover Series 1 2 Dash Smiths Heater Control Genuine Lucas BHA4278
– Emberton Imperial (https://embertonimperial.com/en-au/products/land-rover-series-1-2-dash-smiths-heater-control-genuine-lucas-bha4278-rheostat)

Seems they were fitted to a lot of UK vehicles, I'll have a hunt through my spares but I don't recall seeing one.

Colin




If it can't be repaired I'll fit an ON/OFF switch.

The two things I was taught when I started my apprenticeship as a motor mechanic was when working on anything related to the wheel area was to put the wheel on backwards as a reminder you hadn't finished in that area. the other was to not the bum of your overalls dirty saved getting the car seats dirty & having to clean them (we didn't have seat covers back in the 60's & paper floor mats were just being introduced)

[gromit]

Managed to scrape off some of the Sikaflex that had been used to fit the rear door seal, The seal was removed when I took off the rear side panels.
I decided to fit some replacement seals using truss head semi-tubular rivets as per original.
I've sourced some galvanised steel pallet strapping that's the correct size so a length was cut, marked for the holes and then rivet holes punched. A matching length of seal was then cut and after filing the end of the steel strip it was a case of sliding the strip into the seal. Eventually a technique was worked out.
Next I located the holes in the strip and marked the seal then using a wad punch by hand I cut holes through the seal material both sides of the strip.
The seal was pressed into place and rivets inserted.

I'd purchased a rivet squeezer and dies for the semi-tubular rivets, problem is that for some of the rivets rear access is a problem. A while ago I modified a G-clamp to hold the squeezer dies which worked out ideal. The rivet squeezer will come into it's own when doing a roof as you can set the degree of squeeze and very quickly set the rivets.

There are some other seals that need doing if I get time.

Wired in the high level brake light and fitted the rego plates.
Tested drove up & down the driveway but still wasn't happy with the pedal travel. Adjusted the master cylinder operating rod and improved things significantly. Really need some road runs to bed in the brakes then re-adjust.


Colin

[jerryd]

Which door seal rubbers have you used Colin ?? I'm trying to find some but having no luck

I returned the originals that I purchased as I wasn't happy with them [bigsad]

I'm having trouble with my brakes, struggling to get the air out of the front cylinders [bighmmm]

With 7 days until we leave for Cooma I decided today to strip and prep the rear door today [bigwhistle] Now I wish I hadn't bothered as it's rather bashed and dented


I've done a few laps around our estate and everything under the bonnet seems fine [bighmmm] Cooma or bust !!

[gromit]

Which door seal rubbers have you used Colin ?? I'm trying to find some but having no luck

I returned the originals that I purchased as I wasn't happy with them [bigsad]


Jerry,

I sourced some locally, problem is I had to buy 50mtrs so I sold what I didn't need on the forum.
It's very close to the original although the original may have been made of rubber whereas the seal I sourced was sponge rubber.

Series Land Rover door seal (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-land-rovers/288087-series-land-rover-door-seal.html)

While packing out one of the front door hinges on the Dormobile I noticed that the seal at the front of the front door aperture is a different profile, it's decomposed but doesn't seem to have the big lip like the other seals. Thinking about it while I typed this I wondered if it's fitted with the lip the other way round so as the door closes it pushes the lip down ??
Due to time constraints I'm only fitting seals where I need to at the moment, about to try one on the passenger door on the 'waistline' so I have to bend the steel strip to mark the hole positions, probably have to straighten it to insert into the seal then bend it again

Many on the Dormobile been replaced but Sikaflex'd into position. This seems to work OK but the Sikaflex is a bugger to remove.


I hope to be there in Walter, still a lot of work to be done, brakes were decidedly average so I hope they bed in !!


Colin

[gromit]

My co-driver arrived yesterday, he's out from the UK and had spent a few days in Sydney.

He was a bit nervous when he saw the Dormobile yesterday !
He's never been involved with Land Rovers but has restored a Triumph Stag and has always been into early Japanese2-stroke motorcycles (currently owns a restored Suzuki 750 'kettle'. a Kawasaki H2 and a Yamaha RD400)

He asked about 'safety features' on the Dormobile, me laughing didn't help....


Colin

[gromit]

I need to get the braking improved so I'm taking each drum off & checking, the axles were overhauled some time (years ?) ago.
Front passenger side removed and one of the cylinders is leaking, was resealed when the axle got overhauled.

What's interesting is that when I lifted one shoe off the slave cylinder the piston moved out, there seems to be residual pressure in the system.
I guess when I adjusted the master cylinder it's now not allowing pressure out of the system so I need to adjust again.

Also the shoes were touching more on one side than the other so I need to adjust the brake shoe support screws.

Fingers crossed I can get the brakes sorted at the weekend....maybe I should service the Defender instead ?


Colin

[gromit]

Still touch & go for Cooma.....

Master cylinder adjusted.
Replaced the front wheel cylinders, bled the brakes but couldn't get a 'good pedal', obviously air in the system somewhere.

This morning I decided to bleed the fronts again, the fact that you are trying to get air out of the top cylinder into the bottom cylinder and out the bleed nipple can cause problems.
Attached the bleeder, undid the nipple and stamped on the pedal a few times. Went to the front of the Dormy and brake fluid everywhere ! The end fitting had come off the bleeder.
Spent 20mins or so cleaning up, cable tied the bleeder fitting then bled the other side and hey presto I had a good pedal.

Took it down the driveway and much better, just need the shoes to bed in a bit.

Made a seal & mounting ring for the overdrive lever, re-fitted the lever.

Started installing windscreen washers, need to mount the manual pump & wiper arm mounted jets.

Repaired de-mister pipe behind the instrument panel. Looks like a wire has overheated in the past and burnt through the pipe, bound the pipe with insulating tape for now. Re-installed the instrument panel.

Fitted rubber matting in the rear section.

Latest problem.....getting fuel from the rear tank.
There's a changeover tap that switches between the rear tank and underseat tank. When I change to the rear tank it runs OK for a while then stops.
Checked the pickup in the rear tank and it's clear, no debris in the tank.
I might put a kit through the pump tomorrow to see if that makes a difference.

Still to do :-
Upholster the rear seat & re-install.
Fit the front headlining.
Fix the heater switch or replace (mainly to get the demisters working).
Finish the windscreen washers.
Fit reverse lamp.
Clean the Dormy.
Test the overdrive !

The Defender is still on standby.....

Colin

[gromit]

Looks like it's the backup plan !

Up early this morning and got the rear seat upholstered & fitted.
Still problems feeding from the rear tank, blew out the line, fuel getting drawn through. Could be the changeover tap or maybe the valves in the fuel pump, enough suction to draw from the front tank but not the rear.
Brakes very average but no time to really bed them in then.................a major problem with the overdrive.
It was secondhand so always a bit of an unknown quantity.
I could re-fit the original parts but with the other issues and still more to do I decided the Defender is the best option.

Packing tomorrow and heading off on Wednesday, will bush camp somewhere on the way.

Colin

[1950landy]

Sorry to hear that, at least you will be able to attend the event unlike me sitting at home waiting for other people's photo's & stories. Things never go your way when you have a deadline always one step forward & two steps back. :(

[Saitch]

Looks like it's the backup plan !

Up early this morning and got the rear seat upholstered & fitted.
Still problems feeding from the rear tank, blew out the line, fuel getting drawn through. Could be the changeover tap or maybe the valves in the fuel pump, enough suction to draw from the front tank but not the rear.
Brakes very average but no time to really bed them in then.................a major problem with the overdrive.
It was secondhand so always a bit of an unknown quantity.
I could re-fit the original parts but with the other issues and still more to do I decided the Defender is the best option.

Packing tomorrow and heading off on Wednesday, will bush camp somewhere on the way.

Colin

That's a shame, Gromit, after all the work.
I did get a close up look at JerryD's vehicle, the other day.[thumbsupbig]

[Homestar]

Bugger! So close mate - sorry to hear this but completely understand. As long as you drive it sometime soon to a show or something after Cooma so I can have a good look over it. :)

[gromit]

Arrived at Cooma, tired of waving at other Land Rovers already [smilebigeye]

Overnighted at Willis Campground on the NSW/VIC border.

The Tanami ran almost faultlessly.....
Started to get a knocking noise on the road from Willis Campground, tracked it down when I got to Cooma. One of the rear shock absorber bushes has failed (as in disintegrated).
I purchased the Defender back in 1999'ish and it came with OME shock absorbers fitted. I've never touched them so maybe the poly bushes are past their use by date, certainly one was !
Also had a dust cap on one of the rear hubs break.
Hopefully I can find bushes at the swap meet, the dust cap can be replaced with some duct tape.

Need to think about cleaning the Tanami before the parade but rain is predicted plus I'll do some driving around the area, maybe Saturday.

Colin

[gromit]

Thanks to Macks Auto & Tyreplus Cooma I now have Nolathane bushes.
Just need to find someone with a decent 19mm socket & breaker bar (or a rattle gun), my cheap 19mm spanner isn't up to the job !

Colin

[gromit]

Good to see a couple of Dormobiles at Cooma, shame mine didn't make it !
Met with Jerry and had a look round his, also spoke to the owner of the other one (he won a prize for best unrestored Series II).

Defender ran well (considering it doesn't get used very often), need to give it a clean but currently raining in Melbourne

I might take a break from the Dormobile for a while, SWMBO has a tin of paint & a paintbrush ready for me.


Colin

[gromit]

Finally back to work on the Dormobile.

As I was testing the brakes prior to Cooma the old Rocky Mountain overdrive failed. Luckily I found the problem before leaving.

During brake testing I heard a 'pop' from underneath, all seemed OK but walking down the driveway later I found a disc of aluminium with Rocky Mountain on it !! A hole had been punched out the back of the overdrive.
Had I not found the piece of aluminium it would have run out of oil on the drive to Cooma......

Removed the overdrive at the weekend and put it back to standard, had a look tonight and a countersunk screw had worked loose,wound itself out and punched a disc of aluminium out the back of the overdrive.

I'd been in contact with Ray at Global Roamer when I first got the overdrive and asked a few questions as I fitted it. The support from him has been outstanding considering the overdrive was an old one and secondhand.
I need to pull the overdrive down at some point and work out how to repair the casing so it can be re-installed.

Just need to get the front seats back in and then I can get back to work on a list of things like trying to fit the headlining, installing curtain rails, replacing perished door seals etc.



Colin

[gromit]

I've just been offered a secondhand casing for the overdrive by Global Roamer ! How's that for aftermarket service.

I'll investigate getting it TIG welded first.
Once fixed the repair only needs to contain the oil, there's no load on the disc that got punched out.
I purchased a TIG welder suitable for aluminium earlier in the year but I might entrust it to someone more experienced.......



Colin

[JDNSW]

Have you looked at the possibility of tapping a thread in the hole and screwing a plug into it?

[gromit]

Have you looked at the possibility of tapping a thread in the hole and screwing a plug into it?

Unfortunately the piece punched out is about 2" diameter.

Colin

[Homestar]

Oh wow - that’s a lot bigger than I had thought. I was thinking around a 1/2” hole. [emoji16]

[JDNSW]

I see what you mean!

Yes, welding, new housing, would seem to be the best approach.

Since it is not stressed though, since you have the piece, I wonder how a structural metal glue would work, perhaps with several small screws for peace of mind? Joint preparation and clamping would need to be considered.

[gromit]

I see what you mean!

Yes, welding, new housing, would seem to be the best approach.

Since it is not stressed though, since you have the piece, I wonder how a structural metal glue would work, perhaps with several small screws for peace of mind? Joint preparation and clamping would need to be considered.

John,
I thought of that myself but not enough meat to screw into.
I also thought of a strap picking up on the screws that hold part of the synchro mechanism in the back of the casing.

I need to strip the overdrive, clean up the aluminium around the area and see if I can find someone to TIG weld a repair, hopefully the bearing housing directly behind doesn't get compromised.


Colin

[gromit]

The back end of the overdrive is now stripped and the case ready to be TIG welded, just need to find someone to take on the job.
I'd like to clean the inside of the casing, so far no solvent has touched the brown staining.

Ray at Global Roamer thinks it would have been made back in the 90's. I couldn't find any wear on the synchros and the bearings seem to be OK so once the case is fixed I can re-fit it.
Plenty of Loctite will be used on the screw that caused the problem !!

Colin

[1950landy]

May be someone with a ultrasonic cleaner could help you out with the stain my son in law has been using his to clean the varnish on his injectors, or the internals have been coated with something to oil leaks if alum is porous. Just a thought, a couple of the Rover guys cleaned the baked paint off the Plenum Chamber of their fuel injected motors so they could polish them, this caused them to make a whistle noise because they were porous. I told them they needed to paint them again which fixed the problem. I have seen this in some machinery with alloy boxes, mostly a light green colour.