getting ready for the trip.

[Davie]

This has probably been covered but i couldnt find anything. I am connecting my Tekonshya brake controller but i am having a problem with the trailer plug. What are the wire colours to connect, i believe Land Rover colours are different. I have the Australian standard but if LR are different it doesn,t mean much, I read that theway to tell if your plug is wired to EU standard then the black would be to the centre pin, mine is wired to brown to center, but i still do not know whate colour does what, please help a newby to this electrickery business.

[Laurie]

Davie
In my D2 it was as follows:

Black / +ve
White / -ve
Red - Brake light wire pick-up
Blue - Variable voltage feed to pin No.5

Hope this helps !

Laurie

[harlie]

stop stop stop.
D2 is very simple - the same as toyota/nissan ect.

L322/D3/D4/RRS are very different. Pretty sure I did a write up some time ago.

The plug on the back is/was EU standard, major differences is there are 2 tail light circuits, one on pin 5 which is where your trailer/van is expecting brakes and the colours are all different.

Red wire on the controller - You can't pick the signal up off the brake pedal switch - it is "hall effect". The signal must be picked up after the ECM (beside throttle) or from the trailer ECU.

The brake signal needs to be connected to Pin 5 on the plug - usually with a blue wire. If you have brown in the center (pin 7) someone has had a play with this before, check for a tail light current on pin 5 - if it is there it need to be cut it up near the trailer ecu and join to the wire going to pin 7 (so you don't get globe out warning). Once again, if someone has been playing in there it may already be done.

[Davie]

Hi Harlie, yes i read your writeup and as you say the colours are different, what i wanted was to know what colours on the l322 did what? I don,t see where anyone may have altered any wires other than move the brown, but there are still 7 wires:confused: i havent got a helper and i wouldn,t like to blow a fuse so i am going very carefully, there seems to be a blue wire in 5 , so would i just splice into the blue wire near the controller?
Thanks for your help
Another question, where do you get 12v power for pin 2 to run the fridge in the caravan while you are travelling?

[harlie]

EU standard has
*blue in pin 2 with rear fog lights
*brown in pin 5 with right hand side tail light
*black in pin 7 with Left hand side tail light
other 4 wires (earth, brake lights, both indicators) are the same.

Currently your plug is to aus standard?? They may have just replaced the plug? (blue in 5, brown in 7, black in 2). If yes then you need to confirm the following:
*Swapping brown from 5 to 7 is easy and OK
*check that black currently does not have a tail light connection. If it does, cut it and join the end coming from the ECU to the brown one up near the trailer ECU. Now it will globe check with the other line.
*check that blue wire does not have a rear fog light connection. If it does cut it and insulate the end coming from the trailer ECU - it does not check for rear fog.

You can now connect the blue from the trailer brake controller to the blue (assuming it is blue in pin 5)
And fridge wire (or reverse) to the black (assuming black goes to pin 2)

As for the fridge - I recommend using an Andersen plug to run the fridge and charge a battery. Either way (separate plug or pin 2) you can get power from the rear fuse box (I did a write up on this too). Simplest is to hook on to the big red lug - make sure there is a fuse in your new line. I utilised the empty maxi fuse slot and connected into the harness connector because I seem to like stuffing about.

You can leave it powered all the time, have it switch with a relay (key on), or have it switch with a Voltage Sensitive Relay - just make sure there is a fuse in line, did I mention that?

Personally I have reverse lights on pin 2, makes reversing into that dark camp site or boat ramp a lot easier.

[Davie]

Thanks harlie, that gives me a few more things to check, im glad there are guys like you that like to bugger round, its how we learn. Just have to go down to bunning and get a new soldering iron
Yes it seems that someone changed the wires to AU standard but kept the 2 indicator setup

Now i am really bewildered, when i turn on the light switch and then check the trailer socket every pin powers up, with the blue in pin5 showing the least volts,( i am using an analogue multimeter) how can this be? I will have to wait untill it cools down a bit and then get the wife out here to try the different switches.

[harlie]

Yeah, welcome to the computer age. You may need to have a trailer plugged in or all you will get is test signals - the computer knows there is nothing plugged in.

[Davie]

Well harlie the plot thickens, i spliced the black wire into the brown, cut the blue and joined that to the blue from the controller, now all wires are to the correct pin except the black that i spliced into the brown, this is reserved for the caravan connection that i havent yet done. I thought " you beauty" the indicators work, the break light work and that was all i needed today but this evening i took the missus out and when i went to turn on the lights Oh Oh dash lights didn,t come on and a loud buzzing came from the back left hand side ( where the gps cd is) any idea what i have buggered up, it must be the black and brown splice, but what are my options if it is. I forgot to mention when dash lights never came on neither did headlights, I will undo what i did in the morning, if you can give me more help i will be grateful,
Cheers Davie:confused::confused:

[harlie]

Q. Is there a Trailer ECU installed? it should be located in with the rear fuse box.

It is possible to wire up trailer lights on the dodgy directly off the signal wires from the LCM (that the trailer ECU would usually receive).

[Davie]

Yes tthere is the ECU in the back, what i did there was turn it over, i had noticed from all the pictures on the forums that the ECU was mounted upside down according to the writing on it, with the plug on the top, mnehad been mounted with the writing the right way up witch put the plug underneath where it wouldn,t be able to be removed. I don,t think that woud have caused any problems just tidied it up a bit. The ECU does seem to have been mounted either by the stealer or someone else, becaue the wiring harness was tied in with cable ties, I will go out and look for any thing else that looks odd,
Do you know what caused that noise from the back?
Thanks again

[Davie]

Here is what i have done, excuse the earth insulation tape

[Davie]

Now i really don,t know what is happening, i have returned all the wires to how i found them, rejoined the black and rejoined the blue. Still no lights just that terrible stattic noise from the back, Please help,d3:confused::confused:

[chaybra]

Now i really don,t know what is happening, i have returned all the wires to how i found them, rejoined the black and rejoined the blue. Still no lights just that terrible stattic noise from the back, Please help,d3:confused::confused:

Tried a battery disconnect and earth?

[Davie]

Tried disconnecting battery negative,leaving for about 5 min and reconnect, no difference

[harlie]

The wires that you cut/spliced - were they definitely ones from the trailer ECU to the plug? not Trailer ECU to LCM.

If you have no lights its either a fuse or the LCM. Try unplugging the trailer ECU.

Quick check; there are 5 fuses in the passenger compartment fuse box associated with the LCM headlight function (4, 9, 53, Link3, Link4). The LCM uses MOSFETs to individually fuse each circuit. Are any lights working? I can't see how you could possibly fry the LCM - trailer ECU maybe.

As to the static, it's in the passenger side? there's not something crossed over to the reverse sensors? whats the chance you have a scanner to see if anything is crying?

Given that the plug has been changed, someone has been playing before you, and what creative things have been done, well...

[Davie]

Thanks for your help harlie, but first let me apologise for probably giving you my headace, after a lot of scratching aroundand cursing i isolated that noise to the speaker in the rear lefthand door:confused: after i had disconnected all what i had done i was back under the dash to disconnect the Tekonshya and i moved the dashlight dimmer switch, the stattic noise stopped, i checked and the lights were on:D so it seems i undid everything for nothing. The problem seems to be with the dashlight dimmer switch, that i can live with, but what that had to do with that speaker is another problem for another day, Now i am so glad i still have my D1