My 1969 Millard caravan

[Cap]

Thought ill post some pics of my 1969 Millard 16ft vintage and the work im doing to it. Basically, its an alloy frame and in the past has had some leaks in the front and back, so have done some work to fix. I have loads of pics and some vids of the work (links in my sig) but ill post up a few pics here.

Not sure if there are many here that own old caravans, but would like to know if you do and what work has been done on them.

Here she sits just a little after the purchase late last year
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/135.jpg

Draw bar was a write off - completely rusted. Justin Cooper is helping me with making a new one, so the old one has been cut off a week or so back
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/136.jpg

Interior pic - not that the front and rear walls have since been removed (to replace the rotted ply)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/137.jpg

Underneath, the chassis was scrubed back using angle grinder and wire brush, then painted with kill rust paint. The floor was painted with external timber varnish to help water proof it
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/01/138.jpg

Anyway, loads more photos here (http://www.plottier.net/wp/millard-1969-caravan-resto/)

Carlos

[mick88]

Brings back good memories of family holidays in the late 1960's to early 1970's as my parents had a similar 16' Millard caravan when I was a kid.
It was towed with the family car, a HK Holden sedan.


Cheers, Mick.

[Cap]

Funny you should mention that, a mate said the very same think when he saw and smelled inside... flashback for him :D

[Mick_Marsh]

You'll have to join the "Classic Caravans" forum now.

There are a few of us there already.

Might have to organise an AULRO caravan gathering someday.

[Cap]

Mick - I am already in that forum, if its the one you mention, under the name tasmillard :)

One day we will be doing an interstate trip, would like to meet others with the classics also.

[mick88]

Back in the 1960's and 70's my uncle had Mk2 Zephyr that was painted light blue, dark blue and white which he towed a Fiesta caravan that was painted matching colours. Fiesta caravans were made in Mildura back in their day. His Fiestsa caravan was aluminum and plywood.

Cheers, Mick.

[DoubleChevron]

Nice !! I'm not looking for a tri-bunk 'van now. They are all expensive no matter the age. this would be perfect ... but bugger it, I'm only $9,000 short of the asking price :( ... it look un-used inside (family vans are usually battered as buggery .... 'cos well kids have jumped all over them).

17ft spacious 7 berth caravan | Caravan | Gumtree Australia Brimbank Area - Keilor | 1068972127 (http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/keilor/caravan/17ft-spacious-7-berth-caravan/1068972127http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/keilor/caravan/17ft-spacious-7-berth-caravan/1068972127)

seeya,
shane L.

[Chucaro]

Drive down to paradise and get THIS ONE (http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/ulverstone/caravan/neat-family-caravan/1068993401) :D

[Cap]

$9000 is asking on the high side, yes its very nice inside but I dont care what anyone says, caravans will leak in their lifetime.

I bought mine relatively cheap, and still needs work inside. If you get one that needs work, you can a)get it cheaply and b)change the inside to suit.

Cheers,

[DoubleChevron]

Drive down to paradise and get THIS ONE (http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/ulverstone/caravan/neat-family-caravan/1068993401) :D

I've got an old Chesney pacemaker that's in really nice condition that's the same layout as that one ...

The old Chesney | Classic Caravans (http://ditzygypsy.proboards.com/thread/2647/old-chesney?page=1)

I like to find aluminium 'vans that are slightly battered on the outside that have really nice interiors. It costs a fortune to do up the inside of a rotten caravan :( and if they have leaked there almost always far worst than you think once you start working on it.

You'll spend 6months driving all over the state looking at rotten garbage (even the really young stuff can be rotten and stinky as buggery) ... then suddenly decide something like that $9000 above if it isn't rotten is bloody good value :)

seeya,
Shane L.

[Cap]

I suppose its where you feel comfortable with your skills... pulling external cladding from the frame is a huge job, and chances are, if they are battered on the outside then the inside isnt much better. Like you I looked at loads of caravans and they were all in various states of neglect (not disrepair, neglect).

So yes, sometimes spending a bit more upfront means less headaches in the future, and you can use straight away.

[Homestar]

Most will have seen the other thread I have running here about the drop axle on mine. It is a '75 franklin. Here's a link to the thread running on the classic caravan forum - My 75 new (old) Franklin. (http://ditzygypsy.proboards.com/thread/2558/new-old-75-franklin)

[DoubleChevron]

For you guys that like tinkering with caravans .... this is one of the best threads I've ever read!

Caravaners Forum • View topic - ROGUES GALLERY or HORROR STORY ??? (http://caravanersforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12286)

seeya,
shane L.

[Homestar]

For you guys that like tinkering with caravans .... this is one of the best threads I've ever read!

Caravaners Forum • View topic - ROGUES GALLERY or HORROR STORY ??? (http://caravanersforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12286)

seeya,
shane L.

Less rot in my 40 year old van. They don't make 'em like they used to...

Interesting also is the amount of draw bar failures. Sounds like 100 x 50 x 2mm is pretty standard on most road going vans. That seems way too light to me. I was thinking of something twice as thick. I might call them when I get a chance to see if they can make a recommendation on an idea draw bar material, and dimensions.

[mick88]

As a kid travelling with the family just out of Ballarat on the Melbourne side we witnessed a bondwood van come unhitched from one of those 1970's square shaped two door Valiant sedan. The safety chain remained attached but the driver totally lost control and ended up in the spoon drain. The valiant stayed on it's wheels but the van flipped onto it's side and when everything stopped moving there was just an "A" frame and some angle iron hanging off the rear of the car. The van was trashed and there were splinters, pots, pans and personal belongings scattered for a couple of hundred yards.
They don't stand up to much.


Cheers, Mick.

[DoubleChevron]

I suppose its where you feel comfortable with your skills... pulling external cladding from the frame is a huge job, and chances are, if they are battered on the outside then the inside isnt much better. Like you I looked at loads of caravans and they were all in various states of neglect (not disrepair, neglect).

So yes, sometimes spending a bit more upfront means less headaches in the future, and you can use straight away.

It really is amazing the damage a leak or two will do .... I went down and looked at this monster ...

1985 Roma 25ft Caravan in Hoppers Crossing, VIC | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1985-Roma-25ft-Caravan-/261744830125?)

looks like it's sold... I wonder what poor bastard didn't push on the walls. It looks quite tidy with water staining inside you could probably hide with a coat of paint. All the walls moved in and out if you pushed on them down the side of it .... ie: there was no frame left behind the moderately water stained ply inside. No doubt it'll be tidied up and sold on with a completely rotten frame.

I'm starting to think you simply wouldn't buy an old caravan with a wooden frame. You can't see what hidden behind the (usually painted to hide the water stained) ply.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Cap]

Seen those threads about water leaks and damage. Its not surprising in an old van, but something relatively new would **** someone off.

When I searched for mine, I had a few conditions... 1) alloy frame, 2) straight external panels, 3) surface rust as a max for the chassis. I knew the draw bar was rusted through, but thats a relatively easy fix and something I would of changed anyway given the age of the van.

From what I experienced so far, if you can see water stain on the inside panels, then lots of water has gone through. No biggie for alloy frames, but you still have timber floor. Some of the flooring on mine was paper thing with rot, so I had to cut and replace that.

I see old vans having so much character and a project to be proud of once complete, wo well worth the effort.

[Cap]

So I took the opportunity today with the old man to remove the last of the rotted floor area so its done and dusted. Used Marine grade 12mm plywood, deck paint and it turned out a treat.

The only think, which isnt covered in the vid, is that we had to grind off about 1.5mm off the edge that wedges into the outside frame (under the wall). Nice and tight fit, not going anywhere!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OX1xC9g4Uo

[Pickles2]

Cap, I've read this & seen the pics. Good work by you.
You'll now have a van with real character.
Well done, Pickles.

[Cap]

Looks like im a step behind Bacicat :)

Anyway, got the new draw bar dropped off last night, took a photo but as you can see its basically a replica of the original. Interesting concepts these things are, but he copied everything at the front so its SUPER heavy duty over engineered stuff... also got twin chains for extra safety.

Will be welding it up to the frame, then add the remaining parts like jockey wheel and lpg bottle holder, and hopefully a spare wheel carrier. We may place an additional brace between the two 'arms' for this work.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/59.jpg

[Chucaro]

Looks good Carlos, the bracing for holding the gas bottle will make it even stronger.
When will be welded to the chassis?

[Cap]

Looks good Carlos, the bracing for holding the gas bottle will make it even stronger.
When will be welded to the chassis?

Sunday he is coming back with the gear :)

[Homestar]

Looks good. :)

You have the same hitch and jockey wheel as I have too.

[Cap]

New draw bar is now on with a first coat of paint (just for looks really as its full gal. This is such a weight of my shoulders getting it done. Took 2.5 hours all up, then another 45min to paint first coat.

Now I need a bold on spare wheel carrier and u-bolts to fit the jockey wheel (decided against welding it on)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1517.jpg

[Chucaro]

Looks very neat, also you have to mount the PVC pipe to store the annex posts.
Is there room for a 9kg gas bottle or will be better to fit two of the small ones ?

[Chucaro]

.................................................. ..........................
Now I need a bold on spare wheel carrier and u-bolts to fit the jockey wheel (decided against welding it on)
Just wonder if would be possible to do something like this to gain space?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Cap]

I will have to see how it all fits. First I need the bits, the I can move it around to determine the best setup.

[Homestar]

Looks the goods Carlos. You should be able to fit a spare and a 9Kg bottle on there no probs. :)

[DoubleChevron]

Just wonder if would be possible to do something like this to gain space?

http://tracktrailer.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/std-drawbar.jpg

Hell of a lot of drawbar weight there :eek: :eek: gas bottles would be 30kg, spare 25, 80kg in drums.... Fuel drums would need to go into the car or over the axle in the caravan :wasntme:

a 2minute video can desribe better than anything. In his experiment take the weight over the axle as a swaying bastard european 'van with no nose weight.... and the one with huge weights at the end as an aussie 'van. (spare tyres, gas bottles, motoribikes :eek: etc hanging off the extremities).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFzrWHTG5e8

Note: with the weights at the ends it's WAY more stable........until the second it's not... then it's all over.

My parents new european caravan even has the gas bottles mounted over the axle and no front or rear boots (that's how keen they are to keeps the weights away from the ends).

seeya,
Shane L.

[Chucaro]

Shane, the example was only related to the angle mounting of the spare which in the Millard allows to bring the spare as close as possible to the front wall of the caravan.
I do not suggest for a minute to put so much weight in the front of the van.:)

[DoubleChevron]

Shane, the example was only related to the angle mounting of the spare which in the Millard allows to bring the spare as close as possible to the front wall of the caravan.
I do not suggest for a minute to put so much weight in the front of the van.:)

Woops :angel:

I still haven't mounted the spare wheel on mine, it's sure not going to be swung from the back ..... I don't really want it on the drawbar either (I'd rather leave the available space there for a split system condenser if I ever find a cheap split system to stick in it).

At the moment I just throw it in under the table, so it's "sort of" over the axle. What a PITA.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Mick_Marsh]

Shane, the example was only related to the angle mounting of the spare which in the Millard allows to bring the spare as close as possible to the front wall of the caravan.
I do not suggest for a minute to put so much weight in the front of the van.:)
That wasn't clear. I thought you were suggesting Carlos to mount gas bottles and Jerry cans on the drawbar.

Shane, that video is a bit deceptive. You'll notice when he moves the weights, the rear weights are moved more rear than the front ones are moved forward, thus making the towed rig tail heavy. A big no no as demonstrated.
I would have expected a different result had he moved only the front weights forward.
As you well know, you need to have about a couple of hundred kilograms ball weight.

[DoubleChevron]

That wasn't clear. I thought you were suggesting Carlos to mount gas bottles and Jerry cans on the drawbar.

Shane, that video is a bit deceptive. You'll notice when he moves the weights, the rear weights are moved more rear than the front ones are moved forward, thus making the towed rig tail heavy. A big no no as demonstrated.
I would have expected a different result had he moved only the front weights forward.
As you well know, you need to have about a couple of hundred kilograms ball weight.

There's another similar one ... Where they show moving the weights to the ends makes the whole show WAY more stable. It took a lot to get it to move ................. But once it did, there was no saving it (ask anyone with one of those huge caravans with massive weights at the ends.... "It always towed perfectly ........... Until that one time ........")..... where the rolled it down the road.

It is interesting to look how other countries make there caravans, and the reason why they "do what they do". I reckon the perfect setup is 5th wheelers... in theory they should cost no more to build (don't you love theory) but all the weight will be between the axles ... just like a semi. It does of course require a Ute to tow it with ... that has a hefty weight carrying capacity in it's tray.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Chucaro]

That wasn't clear. I thought you were suggesting Carlos to mount gas bottles and Jerry cans on the drawbar.

.................................................. .....................................

You are right Mick, Carlos know what I mean, I help him with the project and almost we can read of each other mind :D

[Mick_Marsh]

There's another similar one ... Where they show moving the weights to the ends makes the whole show WAY more stable. It took a lot to get it to move ................. But once it did, there was no saving it (ask anyone with one of those huge caravans with massive weights at the ends.... "It always towed perfectly ........... Until that one time ........")..... where the rolled it down the road.

It is interesting to look how other countries make there caravans, and the reason why they "do what they do". I reckon the perfect setup is 5th wheelers... in theory they should cost no more to build (don't you love theory) but all the weight will be between the axles ... just like a semi. It does of course require a Ute to tow it with ... that has a hefty weight carrying capacity in it's tray.

seeya,
Shane L.
Yep. Lots of weight forward of the trailer axles is more stable but, yes, for that the tow vehicle is to be able to carry the load forward of the rear axle.
People tell me I'm wrong in loading vehicles backwards on my tandem but it's all about getting the correct weight distribution.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1490.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Misc/Adelaide%20trip%202015/DSC_4655.jpg.html)

[DoubleChevron]

Yep. Lots of weight forward of the trailer axles is more stable but, yes, for that the tow vehicle is to be able to carry the load forward of the rear axle.
People tell me I'm wrong in loading vehicles backwards on my tandem but it's all about getting the correct weight distribution.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1490.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Misc/Adelaide%20trip%202015/DSC_4655.jpg.html)

That picture initially scares the **** out of me ............. Having said that, it is ok if you look... The heavy bit (engine/transfer/gearbox) is nearly over the axles, and the rest of the car is way forward of the axles. I'd say you have plenty of nose weight there. It only works 'cos you trailer has the axles a long way back from center :)

that's hilarious ... i just googled "5th wheeler trailer" to see what would come up thinking the seppo's would have some rippers ... and look what popped up

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1491.jpg

:Rolling::Rolling:

seeya
Shane L.

[Mick_Marsh]

That picture initially scares the **** out of me ............. Having said that, it is ok if you look... The heavy bit (engine/transfer/gearbox) is nearly over the axles, and the rest of the car is way forward of the axles. I'd say you have plenty of nose weight there. It only works 'cos you trailer has the axles a long way back from center :)
Probably less than a couple of hundred kilo's of ball weight.
As you have noted, the axles are a fair way back. This adds to the stability. This is why I think bacicat made a good decision to extend the draw bar. What makes a trailer so unstable is the weight at the back of the trailer and the distance this weight is from the rear trailer axle. It's far better to put the spare on the drawbar rather than mounted on the rear of the van.

[Cap]

Good discussion - I actually havent thought much about weight except that I would like the ball weight to be way under 100kg, perhaps 80kg or so. As for mounting stuff, ill be mounting spare wheel on front but now not sure about gas bottle. I am not runing gas inside (electric oven only) so the bottle is for the BBQ :)

I also dont like the idea of making a rack for the back, hanging it off the chassis. Not sure why, but prefer to keep weight on one side (draw bar) than on both. No science as to why, just a preference.

[Mick_Marsh]

Good discussion - I actually havent thought much about weight except that I would like the ball weight to be way under 100kg, perhaps 80kg or so. As for mounting stuff, ill be mounting spare wheel on front but now not sure about gas bottle. I am not runing gas inside (electric oven only) so the bottle is for the BBQ :)

I also dont like the idea of making a rack for the back, hanging it off the chassis. Not sure why, but prefer to keep weight on one side (draw bar) than on both. No science as to why, just a preference.
What is the reason for wanting the ball weight under 100kg?

[DoubleChevron]

What is the reason for wanting the ball weight under 100kg?

To terify the crap out of himself :p seriously he probably wants to be able tow it with any sort of european sedan (they almost universally quote 75kg as the tongue load).

With trailer loading. Everything he says makes sense. No, if buts or "maybes" .... he's nailed it I reckon.

Caravan Stability (http://www.noboundaries.com.au/Safety/caravan_stability.htm)

By the way ... they are right, a Citroen DS is an exceptional towcar.............. for it's time. Way to underpowered and lightweight to tow anything made in the last 20years :(

It makes sense, limit the weights at the ends. Those modern "toy haulers" and "hatchback" caravans scare the hell out of me. Who was the genius that though allowing the loading of heavy items at the very back edge of an already massively heavy caravan was a smart idea :eek: :eek: :eek:

seeya,
Shane L.

[Cap]

Caravan will be towed with the Disco :)

Ill read more about weight, learning these things now but if the caravan is 'balanced' properly, ie, weight distributed evenly, then why wouldnt 80kg on the ball be enough?

Not being smart, I really dont know, hence ill read up on it and let me know.

[Chucaro]

The ball weight recommended on my old Viscount was between 8 to 10% of the weight of the van loaded ready for the trip.

[Chucaro]

Going by this page it suppose to be between 10% and 15% :eek:

Measuring Towball weight (http://members.optusnet.com.au/bpdons/stars/neville/handyhints/towball_weight.htm)

[Homestar]

I always thought 10% was about right. I'll be aiming at between 120 and 130Kg ball weight when I'm fully loaded. Van will weigh 1200 ish Kg. The weighbridge will tell all in a few days... :)

[Chucaro]

Probably less than a couple of hundred kilo's of ball weight.
As you have noted, the axles are a fair way back. This adds to the stability. This is why I think bacicat made a good decision to extend the draw bar. What makes a trailer so unstable is the weight at the back of the trailer and the distance this weight is from the rear trailer axle. It's far better to put the spare on the drawbar rather than mounted on the rear of the van.

I agree Mick, the weight at the back it is a recipe for trouble, in my Viscount I have the gas bottle in the the draw bar and because it was short and no room for the spare the factory fitted it under the floor.

[Cap]

looks like i got some short on back accessories tail light! no power to it, and when i use indicator it turns on the other side tail light, with a very faint glow. hope i dont have to rip internal rear wall out to fix it!! :(

[SouthOz]

Have you checked your earth connection.

Dave

[Cap]

Ill be checking that all again too. The brake light works OK for that same side, only the indicator (that triggers the other sides brake light) and the accessory light (not working) are the issues.

[DoubleChevron]

Ill be checking that all again too. The brake light works OK for that same side, only the indicator (that triggers the other sides brake light) and the accessory light (not working) are the issues.

Mate .... it's definitely the earth!!!. Southoz has obviously been there many times before too.

Realisicaly it pays to give the wiring a good going over. I pulled the wiring back through the drawbar on my caravan (as I found traces of copper rot in the wiring at the plug) and found a heap of ****ty joiners and wiring splices pulled out of the drawbar with the wiring. So I snipped the trailer plug off, taped some new wiring to the old wire and pulled it back through the A frame. Then snipped the old wiring off where it entered the caravan way back near the axle. Then soldered the new wiring on.

Whip the lense of each light (sidelights as well) and check the wiring. Especially the earth connection. Ideally you want a white earth wire running to each light, if there's not, pull whatever screw out is earthing the light and clean/check it. Also chekc the white earth wire both car and caravan side to ensure it's earth well.

I have a gutfull of doing this years ago with my trailers ( 'cos I'm a tightarse and kept using those ****ty $8.00 trailer lights from the local markets) and ran new wire on them all and soldered on LED submersible/water proof lights. I haven't need too touch trailer wiring in about 5years now (other than on other poeples trailers).

seeya,
Shane L.

[Homestar]

Chances are there won't be an earth running to each light, but the lights earthed through the aluminium cladding. If this is the case, there will probably be corrosion around where the mounting screws go through the cladding. I had to redo all mine - I cleaned everything up and used a slightly larger screw so it bit into some new metal. Only a stop gap measure though, what Shane did is a more permanant fix.

[Cap]

Thanks for the info. I have actually wired in new trailer 7 core wire and plug (seeing the draw bar is also new) all the way back into the van where the original wiring begins. So I know its not that, I checked dozens of times. So next is earth, and good point bacicat that ill check exactly how its earthed to begin with. there is a white wire which feeds to the negative on the battery, so its there.

Ill check this weekend and report back :)

[Cap]

I decided to look at it tonight, and I gotta say, you guys are awesome. Yes it was an earth issue and secondly it is earthed on the cladding. So a good clean up of the cladding, the light unit and new screws (old ones were rusty) and presto, problem solved.

What a relief, thanks to you all :)

[Homestar]

Great news. :)

[Chucaro]

Now the money can go towards something else in the van :D
Never ending, an old man in the caravan park in Moore Park Beach said that he was sure that boats and caravans are female :D

[Cap]

Draw bar done and dusted, i collected the vids and made a single project vid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtnD3t95apQ&list=UUu3RwTvV8BtsNIuTyGkAo5w

[Cap]

I bought 4 stabiliser legs like these ones

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/780.jpg

They are super beefy, 6kg each rated at 1000lbs. Has anyone put these on their caravan? They over the top for the Millard but may as well use them.

[Homestar]

What length are those ones? I will be doing the same thing on mine, but I'm struggling to find the right length. I want to mount mine under the main chassis rails, but they are only 380mm off the ground and the shortest ones I can find are 400mm.

[Cap]

These are 400mm high, the van is just 410mm but these fold also so in your case you could still use them but wont sit straight. Mind you, on uneven surfaces mine will be a combo of straight, extended and folded in an angle.

[Chucaro]

What length are those ones? I will be doing the same thing on mine, but I'm struggling to find the right length. I want to mount mine under the main chassis rails, but they are only 380mm off the ground and the shortest ones I can find are 400mm.


They are 400 but that it is not important because you never use the vertical and they have many angle settings.

[Homestar]

Thanks for that. although they can be used at an angle, I'm just not sure how they will go on uneven ground and I wouldn't be able to fold the outwards from where they would have to mount, only inwards. Not sure if I would get them out far enough to be of any assistance. They would probably be fine, but if I could find a set just a bit shorter, I'd be happier.

[wrinklearthur]

If towing a tandem axle trailer, do watch the height of the trailer coupling.

A poorly loaded, forward heavy loaded trailer can make the rear on the towing car sag, or a low towball height, this increases the load onto the front axle and in effect gives the trailer a tail heavy stance, which in turn can make the tail swing when going down hill.

This instability can vary greatly between slipper springs to rocker springs setups.

A correctly loaded tractor trailer, it has near 50-50% load sharing on the rear wheels of the tractor and the trailer wheels and this configuration is safe when braking going down a slippery slope as there is weight on the rear wheels of the tractor, which have only rear wheel braking.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/731.jpg

A centre axle assembly with a slight load on the tractor drawbar.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/732.jpg

Four wheel trailer with no load on tractor axles.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/733.jpg
.

[Cap]

Huge day today, CHucaro and I pulled the rest of the windows (4 all up) to reseal. Huge job but now the is NO water leaks through the window frames, EVER. Even pulled the outside light out and cleaned the gunk and resealed.

Next will be to look at the roof, to also clean up and reseal. Not sure how yet, really dont want to touch the j-rails (if thats what their called) so will see what options I have.

Tomorrow ill be cutting the old rear legs off ready for the new ones to be installed.

[Homestar]

Nice work. The J moulds are worth the effort to remove and reseal. After the windows the J moulds are the most likely to cause a leak. I've done the front ones on my van, and they aren't too hard, you just need to be careful levering them off.

[Cap]

Thanks Snoops, err I mean Bacicat :P

OK, anyone know where I can find this plastic window cap. It fits between the window frame and the inside cladding. I guess it finished the cladding nicely but also protects it from water damage. Its all gone brittle, so will need to replace the lot (about 26mtrs).

A pic of what I need... 20mm wide section (against table), 3mm internal channel section and 7mm wide on other side of channel (opposite bottom section).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/478.jpg

[Cap]

OK, so I got the 4 heavy duty legs on and the van is rock solid!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/130.jpg

Also, I found some triming (what an effort!) but Mitre 10 has them, and cheap at under $5 for 2.4 meters. Started putting the trim back in this arvo until I sliced my finger with the stanley knife.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/131.jpg

[Homestar]

Thanks Snoops, err I mean Bacicat :P


Shhhhh. You'll blow my cover.... :D

[Cap]

Well, another big job done today. We have decided, given the inside of the van is half pulled out, to just get the reno stuff we want done and dusted. That means new vinyl, painted interior and some other bits and pieces. Outside is basically done for now, but in future new paint job (with further waterproofing) will be planned for.

Floor sanded - before shot. Lots of glue from the tiles still left, but I wasnt aiming at removing it all, just to smooth out the bumps. You can see the original tile layout.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/972.jpg

After shot - much cleaner and smoother, really happy with the result.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/973.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/974.jpg

[Chucaro]

Looks so empty and clean that it is very tempting to remove the furniture and do a full job :)

[Cap]

Recon it meets todays regs? lol Circa 1960s - looks to be the original since the van was manufactured.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/926.jpg

[Cap]

Finally finished the interior painting today. Glad its over and happy with the result.

Video here for Part 3

[Chucaro]

Looks great Carlos, the hard work paid off with a very nice result which last for many years.
Now the floor...........