I must be insane

[DoubleChevron]

I agreed to buy another Range Rover last night... I'll see if I can go collect and pay for it tonight. You'd have to be nuts right? The '85 Range Rover classic was just too reliable so I had to buy a '92 model... being a "fancy modern thing :Rolling: :Rolling: " these have all sort of stuff that'll break and keep me amused, fuel injection, power windows, lpg conversions, A/C, automatic gearboxes, vicious center diff locks etc...

Crazyness right :wasntme:

seeya,
Shane L.

[Corgie Carrier]

It's only your second rangie, wait until you have a shed full and some in the yard :D:D

That's when everyone in town will think you are crazy:angel:

Good luck with the fancy new one.

[Grumbles]

Crazy is cool. :BigThumb:

[DoubleChevron]

It's only your second rangie, wait until you have a shed full and some in the yard :D:D

That's when everyone in town will think you are crazy:angel:

Good luck with the fancy new one.

I dunno ... would a yard full of them get along well with a yard full of slowly decomposing Citroens .... And a ****ed wife 'cos she's sick of all my "garden ornaments :angel: ".

seeya,
Shane L.

[Corgie Carrier]

I dunno ... would a yard full of them get along well with a yard full of slowly decomposing Citroens .... And a ****ed wife 'cos she's sick of all my "garden ornaments :angel: ".

seeya,
Shane L.

I'm sure the rangies would get along with anything, my 2 door is outside with my landcruiser troopy and I haven't heard any arguements:D:D

Can't give advice on the
Washing
Ironing
Fornicating
Etc

I once had a woman I was living with tell me to get rid of some of my cars, my reply was "It's been nice knowing you":twisted::twisted:

Now I spend my money on what I want and have as many "garden ornaments" as I want.:D

[DoubleChevron]

Gee she's a bloody ripper ... It's amazing how much quieter the later models are too. how on earth is it so quiet :confused: it the same car underneath.

My first job is to always remove or repair the "added wiring" ....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=89915&d=1422450082

Lovely right? speaker wire twisted onto the back of the cigarette lighter (there's no power to it ... I can't find the cigarette lighter fuse, but it'll be blown). The speaker wire runs upto the dash top through then using crappy crimp on spade terminals all somehow plugged together there is 3 cigarette lighters housings with a scrap of blue duct tape wrapped around them dropped down into the dash... and a scrap of blue cloth tape around the live "bunch" of terminals. The radio is also wired in with the good old "twisting the wires together and bit of insulation tape " trick.

Lovely, plenty of soldering iron and heat shrink practice for me. I'll have to chase up some good dash plastics, whoever did this mess smashed there way in rather than unscrewing the dash bits.

This car will be a bloody ripper when tidied up a bit :banana:

seeya,
Shane L

[Corgie Carrier]

Looks fairly clean except for the butchered wiring setup.

Any pics of the outside?

[DoubleChevron]

Looks fairly clean except for the butchered wiring setup.

Any pics of the outside?

It's the Rangie that was for sale here in the "for sale" section. It's the ideal car to buy ... Mechanically sound and sorted, not too buggered with, but slightly scruffy around the edges :) Of course the best bit about it is my wife likes it!

I'll wash all the bird **** and dirt off and take some piccies tonight (yeah I'm one of those people that tend too wash cars twice too .... once when I buy them and once to sell them :D ).

The fun bit of course will be seeing what they want for a roadworthy. If it was 2year younger I'd have put it straight onto club plates!

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

The drivers door was taking two attempts at the door handle to open ( yeah I need fix that before the roadworthy ... or more importantly the wife notices :wasntme: ) I'll be buggered, that's one of the easiest fixes ever... And I've been putting up with a dodgy door handle on the other Rangy for two years :wasntme: :wasntme: Does the connecting rod bend slightly in use so need adjusting over time :confused:

I think the electric mirrors will need to work too for a rwc. The passenger side works, and the drivers side make noises in the up and down plane ... but the noises come from the passenger side and nothing moves :confused: I found two broken electric mirror wires in the drivers door where the catch to stop the door opening too wide had munched them .. but still the same thing happens. Has anyone struck this before ?

I figured I'd see how leaky the A/C was ... And stuck the vac pump on there ... and proceded to buggerise around with it for over and hour .... WTF ... AAAARRRhhh, I unscrewed the dodgy quick release fittings ... none of the hoses or connectors would work... Finally I wondered what was behind the aluminium caps at the base of the service ports .......... Yep you guess it ... valves to shut off the service ports. How dumb am I ... I've never seen that before on a car I've tinkered with. Amazingly it vac'd down fine. There's a really, really small leak (I can tell as the 'vac pump give the occasional gurgle)... but it's the sort I'd never find myself. I figured I had nothing to loose, so dump a charge of bang gas in there and was rewarded with 4 degree vent temperatures. :banana::banana::banana: If it holds the charge, I'l lwhip the compressor of an give it an oil change and replace the drier.

I was going to post some piccies but my camera "lost" them ... that's a first. I'll have to re-take them in daylight.

I'll have to chase up some interior plastic to replace the broken ones at some point. I wouldn't be surprised there not all broken ... it's not the best quality plastic I've ever come across :cool:

I still haven't come across much that I think needs fixing for a Roadworthy ... I wonder what they'll find.

seeya,
Shane L

[superquag]

The door mechanism... Very common fault, and it's a periodic item... The connecting rod in question has an adjusting screwable thingy on it, and yes, they do straighten out a bit with use.
Long handled pliers (cheapies) make it easier. Study your RAVE, a bit of contorting, invocation, and care of the fiddly breakable plastics on rods' ends..

Ideal is to have the mechanism 'pop' open well before the handle-flap reaches anywhere near it's full angle. This ensures the door is beginning to move open and therefore taking the load off the handle...which is, as usual, under-built with rubbish material.

Expect to do it every so many years, depending on how you use it etc.

I had to do Sarah's fronts, rears never used, pax was...'ok' but driver's was at edge of working/not working. At 135K....

[DoubleChevron]

some quick piccies. I'm certainly no photographer :wasntme:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90050&stc=1&d=1422711240

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90051&stc=1&d=1422711240

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90052&stc=1&d=1422711240

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90053&stc=1&d=1422711240

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90054&stc=1&d=1422711240

It sure did take some washing to get the bird **** off :cool:

[DoubleChevron]

I also found:

-The horn doesn't work
-one of the tail lights doesn't work (discovered when splicing in a 7pin round trailer plug as -well). I also found all the wiring is already there for a brake controller :banana:
-the passenger window is happy to go down ............................ But back up ............ Yeah right.... just as well it wasn't raining.

Anyway you can pop the window switches apart and clean the contacts.

Now the tail lights .... after pulling them both out and scratching around with the wiring ... .and trying too chase it .... I pulled the fuse cover and found one blown fuse. Yes each tail light has a different fuse powering it ( I thought only citroen did crazy **** like that :blink: ).

How the horn ..... What an absolute bastard of a design that is .... talk about bloody frustrating. I pulled one of the horns off and couldn't find voltage at the horn (and the horn itself worked if shorted across the battery, no blown fuses that I could find .... However the switch does rattle if you turn the indicators on ... so I thought there must have been broken contact up in the top of the stalk where the horn button is.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90056&d=1422712162

The steering wheel didn't want to come off. I just braced by legs under it at the bottom and pushed, while pulling on the top .... Then gave the steering column a couple of sharp whacks with a hammer and it popped off (just as well, I reckon i would have needed to make a puller otherwise).

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90057&d=1422712162

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90058&d=1422712162

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90059&d=1422712162

The mongrel switch just slides out and unplugs. There is a screw at the back of the stalk, the allows you to pry the front off the stalk as shown. there's no horn contact there .. just a nylon shaft that moves going down the stalk shaft. The rattling is just "picture/symbols/fiber light" plate has come away, if you push it back together it's clip into place and no longer rattle.

[DoubleChevron]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90060&stc=1&d=1422712686

You can pop the back off the switch. Note: the contact the comes away, you must ensure this is in it's recess as you clip it back together.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90061&stc=1&d=1422712686

What a crappy design ... there's only a bees dick in it ... see the white nylon rod visible in this one, that is the horn button fully depressed, in the piccie above it doesn't show.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90062&stc=1&d=1422712686

The horn contacts, I bent the back one forward until the nylon rod could push them together again.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90063&stc=1&d=1422712686



This was incredibly frustrating. It took me half a dozen attempts to get it right. The horn would either not work, or work correctly, but toot as you turned the indicators on/off. There would be 100th mm between not working and tooting the bloody horn when you use the indicators. I managed to fluke bending it to the perfect spot so the horn works, but you don't get it blowing unless you push the button. I wonder if this has been apart before and there is something missing from the end of the nylon rod (a plastic clip ?). Oh well it works now.

The bonus of having to pull the switch out is I have now replaced the missing screws in the steering surround ... so it no longer rubs on the steering wheel when you turn it.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Corgie Carrier]

This has been very helpful as I have to do a similar thing on mine.

My problem is that the horn button won't slide in and out without sticking, so will have something to do with the plastic bits in the end of the arm.

Thanks for that now I know what I need to do. :D

[dungarover]

I'm glad Dad sold the Rangie to someone who will sort it out and get some good value out of it. Pretty sad it was sitting in the driveway not getting used.


The previous owner was a tinkerer so I'm not surprised about the botched wiring.


Trav

[DoubleChevron]

Well I deliberately left the slightly blowing manifold exhaust gasket there so there would be some easier stuff too pick.

And this list is:
--front swaysbar D bushes
--front lower arm -> chassis bush
--degrease engine
--rh outer tierod boot
--eyelevel brake light not working (didn't evne notice it had one :D ).

I said "bloody weird it has flogged out bushes .... it drives so nice". He said they showed signs of cracking. I'll have l look tonight. I'm sure not going to impressed if they want perfectly fine bushes changed because they don't look pretty in the piccies they have too take :o :o If they are obviously suspect though .... well that's fine. I dont' mind at all valid stuff being picked up.

They seemed to really want too do the work themselves. I guess I should have made clear when I dropped it off. I do ALL work myself. The bird there even said if by the 7th day we don't have the repairs done they can do them on not charge for a new roadworthy (they think they can find and fit range rover classic bushes in 1 day ....... I guess it's possible if they know of rover parts in ballarat).

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

Did the roadworthy guy pick on the easy replaced and cheap bushes for me ?? rover parts. rollbar bushes == $5.50, trailing arm bush $9.30 and tie rod boot $2.75.... Hey I think I can actually afford that :o

[dungarover]

There not too bad of a list, most of it's pretty doable in a couple of hours. At least it's not silly stuff like cracked door seals etc.. which is total bull****!!!


The tail light on the rear glass, never noticed it didn't work, must of stopped working at some point. Funny that.


Trav

[DoubleChevron]

Yep the bushes sure do have visible cracks in them.... They are however 100% slop free.... So why fail a roadworthy on them :( Oh well, they look easy enough to change either way. The front trailing arm bushes look like you just unbolt them and slide them on. The rollbars 'D' bushes should be the same.

The engine is oily though, I'll pressure wash it and give it a good clean. If anything weeps, I'll stop around the corner and wipe it down. :wasntme: I'll post some piccies on what now fails roadworthies in victoria :(

seeya,
Shane L.

[snowbound]

Looks like she is wired up ready to blow!:eek:

[DoubleChevron]

You know I reckon the mechanic that did the roadworthy knows his stuff .... and I should just shutup about stuff I don't know enough about ... :angel: :wasntme:

The anti-roll bushes ... fine ... but hey, were talking $11.00bucks for the pair ... he probably knows they are a problem area best caught early.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90141&d=1422878709

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90140&d=1422878709

Now the front lower trailing arms bushes... Sure I thought they were fine ... it drives brilliantly... he obviously knows better 'cos look at this:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90139&d=1422878709

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90138&d=1422878709

There fine right??? Now scroll down and look at them compared to the newies :cool:








http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90137&d=1422878709

Everything is so big and heavy on this thing. Rover mechanics must be way tougher than me :D

seeya
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

Well the entertainment has started. I thought I'd take the rangie for a drive and see if the bushes made it drive better (absolutely no difference).

I thought it was strange I had no tacho.... then noticed the charge light was on .... Yes the fan belt is still turning. I guess I'm searching for a replacement alternator now ... Obvioulsy my wife thinks it's 'cos I worked on it.... As things only break when I touch them :wasntme: :Rolling:

Does the tacho sensor output stop working on the altnerators when they die? or have I somehow knocked a wire off by working on the suspension ... from underneath :angel: (hey this is me, anything is possible :D ).

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

Well I gave the alternator a couple of whacks iwth a rubber mallet and it's started to work again (man, listen to the alternator belt squeal now). I'll order in a new replacment before the car leaves town.

I've finished the bushes on the passenger side so moved to the center rear brake light. The globe was fine, but there was no voltage at the wires to the globe .... BUGGER!

So where does the wiring branch off from the rear lights too the middle light? I pulled both rear lights back out again but couldn't find any sign of the extra wiring.

Ok, last resort is the manuals. I had a friend lend me some factory manuals a couple of years back (I actually forgot I had them until I bought this car). They cover this model with the center brakelight in the back.... and helpfully show how to change the globe ( :rolleyes: ) but haven't actually added the bloody thing to the circuit diagram (really helpful that).

So I figured there had to be a plug in the roof lining at the rear glass so you can remove the glass and unplug this stuff. I dropped the rear corner of the head lining down and found these :eek:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/850.jpg

Looks like an after thought added at the factory ( plugs into the factory harness). I slashed it open..... You know I reckon it's a noise suppressor. Talk about bizarre. The injection computer should be heavily shielded and protected from noise which leaves ..... The radio :confused: :confused: Why would the rear window need such an exotic looking noise supressor, you have central locking and a brake light .... and rear demist :confused: Anyway I unplugged this sucker and bypassed it... Nope no brake light.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/851.jpg

I did however find I had voltage there, so there is a wiring break in the wiring betweent he plug and window. I found the wire broken ( cut looking almost) in the plastic wiring guide the wires run too the glass through (bypassed with the yellow wire in the piccie).

That's everything done (fingers crossed) for the roadworthy short of degreasing the engine (very, very, very last thing I'd do .... 'cos I'm sure it'll weep everywhere within a short time again).

I figured I better tighten the very loose (squealing ) alternator belt. And noticed a melted wire at the back of it .... so I pulled the split conduit harness off so I could see what sort of mess the wiring was in.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/852.jpg

It's just the one wire .... that goes nowhere. I bet it once went to a noise suppressor. I thought I better make sure everything still worked before I snipped if off ................. the car started, ran for 2seconds and died :eek:

So I spend a good bloody hour trying to get it to run again :censored: No wires were off, no hoses bumped off, there was power at the coil, both gas and fuel it wouldn't start or run on. At one point it started (for no reason I could tell), ran for about 10seconds that stopped again like I'd shut the ignition off. There was definately no sensors unplugged, so hoses off, no umeasured air leaks downstream of the map sensor .... No reason at all for it not running that I could tell.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/853.jpg

I'm pretty dumb and slow .... so it took some time to occur to me what was going on .... It suddenly decided it was going to run again.... see that wiring there. What else is there other than the alternator wires ?? YEP, the wiring over to the hall effect sensor in the dizzie. Now it decided it was going to run again, I moved this wire near the alternator. As soon as I got it within 1cm of the altnernator the motor died and refused to restart :o ... Yep, you got it, how dumb am I. The alternator is a 3phase AC device and will be quite noisy.... and the wire over too the hall effect sensor isn't shielded. So if it gets to close to the alternator the ignition module throws a fit and dies ..... and takes quite a while to "uncrash" itself so the motor will run again.

Why do I always have to learn everything the hard way :mad:

My wife could hear it dying and refusing to start out there .... so I walk inside "WHY CAN'T YOU JUST LEAVE THE CARS ALONE. We get a car that finally works in the house, and you mess with the thing until it's broken like every other car you own :angrylock: :angrylock: "

seeya,
Shane L.

[bee utey]

1. The alternator in your picture looks to be a Bosch replacement for which the regulator and brushes are a 5 minute replacement job, it is held to the alternator back with two screws. No need to buy a new alternator. They should be available at any car parts store or auto electrician or ebay.

2. There is no hall effect device present anywhere in your distributor, it has a magnetic pickup. The white wire with a black stripe is the negative coil wire and also the ECU feed for the injection timing. Parking it close to the alternator does indeed induce signals in it but its the injection ECU that gets too many pulses.

Have you tried reading a workshop manual about it first?:angel:

[DoubleChevron]

1. The alternator in your picture looks to be a Bosch replacement for which the regulator and brushes are a 5 minute replacement job, it is held to the alternator back with two screws. No need to buy a new alternator. They should be available at any car parts store or auto electrician or ebay.

2. There is no hall effect device present anywhere in your distributor, it has a magnetic pickup. The white wire with a black stripe is the negative coil wire and also the ECU feed for the injection timing. Parking it close to the alternator does indeed induce signals in it but its the injection ECU that gets too many pulses.

Have you tried reading a workshop manual about it first?:angel:

Hee,hee.... I assumed it was a hall effect sensor in there as the wires go straight from the dizzie -> coil. The injection must use the coil pulses ? It should have ran on gas if it was the injection getting scrambled either way. I guess that means there is no TDC sensors on this then :confused: It's bizzare that a 90's model vehicle would be using such a obsolete/outdated way to run the injection.

Still, they should have used a shielded wire ! I'll pull the alternator off and sort it out when ( if ) I can get it through the roadworthy. I hadn't even looked close enough at it yet to see it's brand. If it is a bosch, parts are readily available and cheap from the local auto electric place.

Yep, I have the manuals here .... Really useful they are too :angel:

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

Well it passed. I gave it a good wash underneath last night ... then drove up there this morning and pulled up around the corner and crawled under it to give it a final wipe .......... To find it still bone dry :D Bloody ripper.... no doubt it'll be oily in a months time, but for one of these things I'd consider that "leak free".

It was amusing to hear him say "Gee's you actually did the work I requested, a lot of people don't bother or just clean it and try to argue with me it's ok". So I said ..... "Well now you mention it .... those bushes were fine.... :wasntme: ".

The photograph caper really is a load of bull****.

seeya,
Shane L.

[The Mighty Range Rover]

Well it passed. I gave it a good wash underneath last night ...
Glad it worked out for you. When i was getting a roadworthy on my Series 3 i did the same thing, although the guy came to me instead. Leaky swivel seals.

Also my rear bushes looked like this

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/766.jpg

[dungarover]

You can't get those mobile RWC blokes in Vic, I used to use one of them when I was still living in Brisbane, much easier and most times they would pass first time round.


I will say safety certs on old Rovers are a lot easier to get up north then here with all the photo crap that Vic Road require. The key to getting an old Rover passed is find a tester that isn't a tool and has some basic understanding of British engineering!!!


Trav

[DoubleChevron]

Glad it worked out for you. When i was getting a roadworthy on my Series 3 i did the same thing, although the guy came to me instead. Leaky swivel seals.

Also my rear bushes looked like this

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/766.jpg

I've got no qualms with them finding buggered bushes like that I've missed. The front swivels are weeping on this one. He must have seen it .... and ignored it. The mechanic there must know rovers "they all leak". He probably didn't have to take photos of inside of the wheel from underneath though.

If he'd been an asshole he could have filled rheems of A4 paper with crap like:
-locks don't always work (central locking)
-torn door seals
-rear tailgate seal not fully engaged
-windows not always working (I still need to pull all the switches apart and clean there contacts)
-drivers side electric mirror not working
-1million and one oil "weeps" ... NOT leaks, weeps.

You should see the picky bull**** some pick. I'd probably use this guy again.

seeya
Shane L.

[loanrangie]

Its good to know a reasonable rwc tester , i know a local guy that i sent another forum member to after the last place came up with a new list after each visit.
My bro just bought a mint 97 C200 Merc wagon and it passed first time.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

[dungarover]

Its good to know a reasonable rwc tester , i know a local guy that i sent another forum member to after the last place came up with a new list after each visit.
My bro just bought a mint 97 C200 Merc wagon and it passed first time.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app


That's not doing your job that's just being a **** put simply!!!!!


If you get a RWC what's on the list is what's to be fixed, there shouldn't be any extra work. I had a blue with a RW tester in QLD about that once on a Disco 1, each time we re-submitted it (you get 14 days to fix it up there) he would find more stuff. After the fourth visit told him to shove his roadworthy where the sun doesn't shine and went elsewhere, was easier to pay the $75 for the test than deal with that dickhead.


Passed first time no hassles.


Trav

[The Mighty Range Rover]

I've got no qualms with them finding buggered bushes like that I've missed. The front swivels are weeping on this one. He must have seen it .... and ignored it. The mechanic there must know rovers "they all leak".
Shane L.
I had a similar experience, the guy was very reasonable with the odds and ends of land rovers. He said he knows they leak but as long as he can't see any oil he will pass it.

Supposedly Queensland transport are trying to make it as difficult as possible to get old cars like these registered, even sending out inspectors to when you submit your roadworthy certificate to make sure everything perfect.

[DoubleChevron]

I'd have shopped around until I found someone that was happy to do old cars. Looking in his workshop when I pulled up I spotted a couple of old 60's model holdens. So figured he'd do.

It a shame Roy littlehales isn't still doing RW's in town. He was passionate about old cars and certainly new his ****. He got out as soon as the photographs and all the bull**** was implemented :(

The old Rangie sure is a ripper. My father took it for a spin and was so impressed he was off looking up carsales at late model ones "If this thing drives so well and it's 23years old with 280,000kms on it ..... How good must the newer ones be :o" .... I think he was less impressed with how much they are worth though :cool:

The Rangie towed the caravan down to the beach easily .... rolling along at 2000rpm in 4th a lot of the way (geelong is downhill from ballarat). It sure did use a ****load of gas though :o About 30L/100km by my guestimate.

There was no sign of overheating with the caravan on and A/C freezing the inside of the car. Gee's the A/C is remarkably effective for an old pommie vehicle. the vent temperatures are freezing on bang gas. THe best bit is all the vents blow on the front passneger (my wife who is the one that complains about how hot all my cars are to travel in).

BTW: LPG usage ? My brothers caravan is a lot heavier than mine, but his modern 24valve V6 pajero with injected gas used nearly as much as the Rangie did .....

seeya
Shane L.

[Chucaro]

Shane, you are running out of room in the shed, I am prepared to remove some of the scrap form there just to helping you.
Send me the Pallas and I will take it ven if I have to pay 1/2 of the transport cost.
The things that we do for friends :angel:

PS: I agree with you, the 407it is a zzzzzzz. Of the latest models IMO the 406 V6 Coup? together with the 205 GTR are the best

[DoubleChevron]

Shane, you are running out of room in the shed, I am prepared to remove some of the scrap form there just to helping you.
Send me the Pallas and I will take it ven if I have to pay 1/2 of the transport cost.
The things that we do for friends :angel:

PS: I agree with you, the 407it is a zzzzzzz. Of the latest models IMO the 406 V6 Coup? together with the 205 GTR are the best

You have no idea .... there is 6 cars, 3 trailers and a caravan on the road now..... The VicRoads bills are hurting ... that's for sure. 4 of them are on club permits so only $70 a year fortunately. The red range rover will have to be sold. I'll wash it and take some piccies this weekend and put it up for sale.

Of course the cars listed above don't include all the parts cars and "projects" scattered around the place in sheds :wasntme:

seeya
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

I found out something new today :angel:

Bloody torrential rain and the kids have to go to swimming. We take the blue rangey (not a hope in hell would I let us go in the 407 .... you'd drown the bloody thing in a by sneezing near it.....). Wow there was some water across the roads, and a car crash to find my way around in the 4km trip.... I reckon the water at one of the round-a-bouts was 40cms deep...... half way through the Rangey died .... Yes the mighty 4wd can't drive through deep puddle of water on a sealed road :Rolling: :Rolling:

if felt like it was running out of gas, so I punched the button and it was away almost instantly. So the question is ... what is a gas system would stop it working when it gets wet :confused: I wonder if there is a gas solenoid underneath that you can submerge and kill :confused: I switched it back to gas 200meters down the road and it worked again.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Mick_Marsh]

If it's humid the converter can ice up. This can exhibit those symptoms. Usually happens in winter though.

[bee utey]

Quite simple, I think. Most basic LPG systems use the air filter element as part of the restriction to draw in the gas. If your element got quite wet it would increase the vacuum at the mixer and cause the mixture to go very rich. The MAF for the petrol system on the other hand would still read adequately. Once the air filter element lost its load of water it would run fine on gas again. I suggest you work out how to keep the water out of your air cleaner, a little more may pass further than just a damp element.

[DoubleChevron]

That's a great suggestion... I'll see if the air filter shows signs of dampness. Why in the hell would it suck a gut full of water in .... were not fording meter deep rivers here... :o :o I've taken the old red rangey through way deeper water (it's carbies with the air intake up above the carbies)... infact it's even broken a wave over the windscreen once when I didn't see the gravel back road I was on was flooded once..... she didn't even drop a cylinder and just plowed on.

seeya
Shane L.

[The Mighty Range Rover]

Did you figure out the problem?
Also wondering, you said it had done 280000kms, has the viscous coupling been replaced?

[DoubleChevron]

Did you figure out the problem?
Also wondering, you said it had done 280000kms, has the viscous coupling been replaced?

No idea, I'd have to find a lake to drive through and check :D :o :D

pouring rain and ****house weather here yesterday, and the gas gauge worked for the first time ever, so I'm going to be searching under it for an dodgy earth with regards to the LPG conversion tonight.

No idea about the auto and vicious coupling. I've done probably 3000kms in it ... never misses a beat, everything works as expected. Auto has shiny bright red fluid, engine pulls strongly and uses a small amount of oil ..... maybe 100ml to the thousand k's (likely sucked through the breather). I was a bit shocked for find it took 3.5litres of oil to bring the oil upto the minimum mark on the dipstick after driving it home though :o :o :o I figure it must have been sucking oil through the crankcase ventilation due to the gas fitters stuffing it up.

The auto does appear to have a new gasket in it's pan. I have no idea if this means it's been rebuilt at some point in the past. After the rain I should back it's back axle into the storm drain in the paddock and see if the front wheels will pull it back out ( ie: verify the vicious couple isn't stuck in "open" position .... which I kinda don't mind ... at least that's a "non damaging" failure mode).

air-con still blows freezing cold, heater blows hot, it never runs warm, even when towing ... door locks and windows are skitzophrenic in operation .... ie: she's a rangie in perfect "normal" working order :Rolling:

seeya,
Shane L.
PS: You reckon fuel consumption is bad .... lpg consumption is downright frightening ... 20L/100 is probably the best it does running along the highway not towing ... I easy 30L/100 towing :o

[The Mighty Range Rover]

No idea, I'd have to find a lake to drive through and check :D :o :D

pouring rain and ****house weather here yesterday, and the gas gauge worked for the first time ever, so I'm going to be searching under it for an dodgy earth with regards to the LPG conversion tonight.

No idea about the auto and vicious coupling. I've done probably 3000kms in it ... never misses a beat, everything works as expected. Auto has shiny bright red fluid, engine pulls strongly and uses a small amount of oil ..... maybe 100ml to the thousand k's (likely sucked through the breather). I was a bit shocked for find it took 3.5litres of oil to bring the oil upto the minimum mark on the dipstick after driving it home though :o :o :o I figure it must have been sucking oil through the crankcase ventilation due to the gas fitters stuffing it up.

The auto does appear to have a new gasket in it's pan. I have no idea if this means it's been rebuilt at some point in the past. After the rain I should back it's back axle into the storm drain in the paddock and see if the front wheels will pull it back out ( ie: verify the vicious couple isn't stuck in "open" position .... which I kinda don't mind ... at least that's a "non damaging" failure mode).

air-con still blows freezing cold, heater blows hot, it never runs warm, even when towing ... door locks and windows are skitzophrenic in operation .... ie: she's a rangie in perfect "normal" working order :Rolling:

seeya,
Shane L.
PS: You reckon fuel consumption is bad .... lpg consumption is downright frightening ... 20L/100 is probably the best it does running along the highway not towing ... I easy 30L/100 towing :o


Make sure you take a photo for us!
Glad to hear it is all going well. I read that the VC needs to be replaced every 200 thousand k's, either yours is buggered in the good way or you are very lucky!

Hahahahah they do gulp fuel like a schizophrenic too!

[DoubleChevron]

Make sure you take a photo for us!
Glad to hear it is all going well. I read that the VC needs to be replaced every 200 thousand k's, either yours is buggered in the good way or you are very lucky!

Hahahahah they do gulp fuel like a schizophrenic too!

Either that ... or the VC and auto were rebuilt at 200,000 ... and I don't need to worry about anything until at least 400,000kms .... How would I ever know :D I'm sure not replacing something that seems to work perfectly!

I'm not too concerned, if the gearbox or TC ever plays up ... I'll find a Disco to wreck and put a LT230 and R380 5spd into it .... I like my cars to have proper manual gearboxes :)

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

I spotted on ebay you can buy CB radio aerials quite cheaply .... I wasn't going to bother with the CB ... until I stumbled across a nice looking australian made aerial for $20bucks

Kilpatrick Flexi UHF CB Flexible Dipole Antenna 3nu llGa inSui tsG MEUnid enE | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271283590395?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

Line of sight is probably the only time I'll use an aeriel and I have no need to fit something massive.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/774.jpg

so I run the cable back in ..... and all the smashed dash plastic around the cigarete lighter is on the floor again ... everytime my wife gets it she knocks all the broken plastic apart with her handbag.

So I figure I better try and repair the broken bits of plastic so they don't fall apart ................. An hour later ..... DONE!!!!




















Yeah right and hour later I'm scratching my head thinking .... bugger me, I was just going to spend 10minutes to run the aeriel wire thorugh :o

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/775.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/776.jpg


It's like following the bouncing ball.... you pull off the bit of plastic that's broken .... then find the plastic it attached too is also broken .... so you remove that as well... and find the next bit broken and so on ....:(

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/777.jpg

I dragged out the plastic welder .... Can you believe it, none of the welding rods I had would work on this plastic.... It's one of the thermoset plastic that can't be welded.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/778.jpg

Every single bit of plastic has been smashed in the past ..... The quality of the plastic is absolutely bloody woeful.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/779.jpg

Basically I need to build a new center console for it... 'cos this thing is trashed. I don't have the time or money for this right now. It's so fubar, I sure can't make it worse though.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/780.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/781.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/782.jpg

the back of it is broken to the point I can't even tell what is original would have looked like :confused:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/783.jpg

everything is broken, the fuse box door, the fuse box, the heater control section, the radio surround, center console.... Last week when the door was closing I bumped my knee into the door pocket.... it smashed into about 3 peices and fell on the ground .... So I checked the other doors, and they already match the now broken drivers door ..... How ****ful is the plastic they used ... you just gotta laugh, what else can you do.

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

So I had a look around mitre 10.... being a thermoset plastic it should (in theory) glue quite well with an epoxy type glue.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/762.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/763.jpg

Mirror switch plate to the front of the center arm rest. You can't just glue cracks together, the glue needs something to brace it with ... so I cut out some sheet aluminium and stuck across the cracks.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/764.jpg

I just bent the metal strapping to fit. It's all glued with the super strength araldite. And riveted with aluminium pop rivets (braced with small washers both sides of the rivets. Ugly, but should be strong......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/765.jpg

There real frail and ****ty across the back. I run a length of metal the width of the arm rest under the hinge, and another two pieces bent to match up both sides. Glued and riveted again. Then bolted across the top with the hinge nuts/bolts.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/766.jpg

Some of the aluminium rivets are visible from the outside ... but hey, it was ****ty to start with, so doesn't look much worse (at least it'll be strong and functional now).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/767.jpg

The front above the mirror switch was completely gone too.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/768.jpg

The brace is just held in with one rivet each side.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/769.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/770.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/771.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/772.jpg

It fits together as well as you'd expect now and doesn't look to out of place. I should actually be able to use it now as a drink holder etc... with the lid open (it would all have collapsed before if you tried).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/773.jpg

The radio surround was riveted and glued back into one piece as well.

This wasn't super easy to get apart with it all smashed, so it'll be interesting to see if I can get it back together intact without smashing it somewhere else :wasntme:

seeya,
Shane L.

[dungarover]

Typical old Rangie, a 10 minute job has turned into a battle with dodgy old plastic. I don't think the consoles were that great when new let alone 20 plus years later.


Trav

[carlschmid2002]

More patience than I.

[DoubleChevron]

Hi guys,

while the wiring is exposed I'm removing wiring that "shouldn't be there" :) You see these were such an expensive car when new, they have probably all have the remains of car phones, alarms, stereos, brake controllers, etc.....

This one concerns me, it is possible it's an "area specific" wiring hack done for the australian market, the fact it's into the computers plug concerns me. This is the sort of **** that'll leave you stranded in the middle of nowhere. If this isn't factory I'll pull the plug apart and check/remove it.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94851&stc=1&d=1433729663

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94852&stc=1&d=1433729663

Why go into the wiring plug :o

BTW: What were land rover thinking putting an computer here.... Where it's guaranteed to get drowned if the car ever wades through something a bit too deep! It should be up high, or in a water proof enclosure:wasntme:

seeya,
Shane L.

[Mick_Marsh]

BTW: What were land rover thinking putting an computer here.... Where it's guaranteed to get drowned if the car ever wades through something a bit too deep! It should be up high, or in a water proof enclosure:wasntme:
You've got to remember thr Range Rover was not designed to trek off road through river crossings and bog holes. That was the job of the Series/110/Defender.
The Range Rover was designed for such occasions as towing the horse float across damp grassy fields.

[DoubleChevron]

Well that sucks ... if you pry the seal out ... you'll find two screws that allow you to pull the plug out of it's housing.

It's appears pins 11 and 13 and have interupted. If this was for an alarm, i'm guessing that's interupting power for the injectors and the fuel pump. My issue is ... if you look at the end of the wire ... it's an empty plug.... so these wires are "permenently interupted" .................... So why does the car run?? What are pins 11 and 13 for? I have the manuals here but they seriously suck for the injection. They don't show where all the connections run, and certainly don't label the diagrams with pinouts.

Any ideas? I don't want to remove this wiring and "re-join" these wires, as there may be a bodge somewhere else on the car to get around the fact these two wires are no longer connected to the computer in order to get it running.

Bugger!

seeya,
Shane L

[DoubleChevron]

Well that sucks ... if you pry the seal out ... you'll find two screws that allow you to pull the plug out of it's housing.

It's appears pins 11 and 13 and have interupted. If this was for an alarm, i'm guessing that's interupting power for the injectors and the fuel pump. My issue is ... if you look at the end of the wire ... it's an empty plug.... so these wires are "permenently interupted" .................... So why does the car run?? What are pins 11 and 13 for? I have the manuals here but they seriously suck for the injection. They don't show where all the connections run, and certainly don't label the diagrams with pinouts.

Any ideas? I don't want to remove this wiring and "re-join" these wires, as there may be a bodge somewhere else on the car to get around the fact these two wires are no longer connected to the computer in order to get it running.

Bugger!

seeya,
Shane L

Ok, ignore me .... I just went to start and move the car ..... and the LPG/petrol switch showed no lights .... so I plugged the wiring plug above into the back of it and were set (I must have knocked it off pulling the dash apart).... The guy that did the gas conversion did a really nice job of this. Going to the extent of pulling the computer plug apart and isolating the correct wiring (when I can't even find the bloody wiring pinout in the factory shop manuals).

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

So anyway ..... I'm leaning on my elbows on that underlay while I screw that computer plug back together .................................................. .



And notice my elbows are getting damp..................... FFS: You must be kidding, they didn't use a foam as a sound insulator did they ........................................... YEP!!! They sure did

Lovely stuff... Like that horse hair **** they used in the 60's it gets wet, and stays wet FOREVER. Especially trapped under the tar like top part of the insulation. Sweet... .this is why I love tinkering with old cars so much ... There's never a dull moment .... :banana::banana::banana:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94858&stc=1&d=1433738717

Nice .... Out with the stanley knife ....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94859&stc=1&d=1433738733

Ok, ok .... Lets get it over and done with .....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94860&stc=1&d=1433738753

Yep, passenger side was dry, but after I cut all that insulation out.....

You know, I don't reckon this car leaks, it was the wettest around the edge where I put my wet shoes on the floor when I climb in and out. This has just been caused by it getting wet each winter and staying wet until summer from peoples feet (I hope).

I was just going to spend 10minutes and run a CB aeriel though :Rolling:


Don't worry, by the time I'm at the back of the car and have 99% of it dismantled, I'm sure I'll stop seeing stuff that I HAVE to fix "while I'm here" :wasntme:

seeya,
Shane L.

[dungarover]

At least you found it now rather than later. I wrecked one about the same year as yours that had a floor that was non existent from rust!!


Trav

[DoubleChevron]

At least you found it now rather than later. I wrecked one about the same year as yours that had a floor that was non existent from rust!!


Trav

Hey not complaining .... That's life... I figure "**** happens" no matter what you do :) If I choose to drive 25 -> 55year old cars, there is ALWAYS going to be stuff to be fixed :cool: That's half the fun right :angel:

You know it looks perfect from above and below .... if I'd waited another 2years from below wouldn't have looked perfect any longer ... 'cos there would be no floors left. It looks like the factory built the floor out of left over patches tacked together .... If it was a pommy car I'd swear it had been patched over due to salt damage. They "overlapping" type floor panels would have lasted mere months before rotting out if driven on salted road :o :o :o

I'm amazed there is any of these left in the UK! I find particually interesting the way they "blanked off" the holes for LHD cars.... Rather than not cutting them out of the body, they punches 'em all out, then tack welded a dodgy looking panel over the top of the hole.... I love a car with some, er, "soul" ....

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

Well that was fun .... I wire brushed the **** out of the floors ... I opened up way fewer holes that I was expecting.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94912&stc=1&d=1433770888

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94913&stc=1&d=1433770888

I welded a couple of small patches in ... and some holes closed (including a couple of open factory holes). What an ugly quick and dirty way of patching stuff ( overlapping metal like that)........... Hey it matches the way the floor was made at the factory though :wasntme:

Note: the rusty areas.... where you put your feet when there at there wettest to climb into the car ................... and where your feet sit while your in the car. I reckon all this damage really is just due to water off your shoes .... Imagine if it had leaked with all that water absorbing foam on the floors :eek:


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94914&stc=1&d=1433770888


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94915&stc=1&d=1433770888

It's just a brush painted epoxy paint. I'll scuff it and give it a 2nd coat tomorrow. The most important bit will be seem sealing all those seams in the floor both sides so water doesn't get between them. I might have some sikaflex there I can use.

I'll put the original water water retaining sponge matting back 'cos it does feel nice underfoot, but put two layers of this under it first to protect the floors.

EZ Cool Automotive Insulation heat barrier and noise reduction for cars, trucks, classic cars, street rods and much more (http://www.lobucrod.com/)

If you read the "before and after" some bloody weirdo nutter down in Australia did fitting it too his crappy old Citroen (that he also found rust in the front floors of :confused: ... bloody pommy cars and salted roads) .... you will see it's VERY effective and stopping heat soak.

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

Well the interior fan squeaked liked buggery all day yesterday..... So I figured ... "While I'm here .... :rolleyes:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

It must be one of these ... so I figured I'd try and drop them out .... Nope, not a hope, so I tried to remove the grab handle above it to see if that would get me access from above ....... that is a part of the dash (yes I now know that anyway)... but found the whole dash then wobbled.......... Well the instrument binacle is only a few bolts...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Great ... Now I see how it all works... it's two completely different systems... heater and air condition ... 3 different fans. And they all are now running smoothly and quietly ....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

You can see there will be a barrel fan in the top of the heater box...... It appears to get to the fans I need to release the A/C gas and unbolt the A/C unit disconnect the heater, loose all the coolant and remove the entire heater box and split it in half. You know, I don't think I can be bothered doing that right now. I bet if I put it all back together one of the fans will immediately fail :( Oh well, I guess I'll then know which of the 3 is ( was :confused: ) intermittently the squeaky one.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Bradtot]

You don't have to degas if u just want to remove the heater you can turn the aircon 90 degrees out of the way. It's fiddly but can be done...I have done it twice now, however it is easier with it out of the way. What I diid with my centre consul was to fit a large piece of Dowell above the window rocker switches and then fibreglassed and painted it all
Brad




Well the interior fan squeaked liked buggery all day yesterday..... So I figured ... "While I'm here .... :rolleyes:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94992&stc=1&d=1433939767

It must be one of these ... so I figured I'd try and drop them out .... Nope, not a hope, so I tried to remove the grab handle above it to see if that would get me access from above ....... that is a part of the dash (yes I now know that anyway)... but found the whole dash then wobbled.......... Well the instrument binacle is only a few bolts...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94991&stc=1&d=1433939767

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94989&stc=1&d=1433939767

Great ... Now I see how it all works... it's two completely different systems... heater and air condition ... 3 different fans. And they all are now running smoothly and quietly ....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=94990&stc=1&d=1433939767

You can see there will be a barrel fan in the top of the heater box...... It appears to get to the fans I need to release the A/C gas and unbolt the A/C unit disconnect the heater, loose all the coolant and remove the entire heater box and split it in half. You know, I don't think I can be bothered doing that right now. I bet if I put it all back together one of the fans will immediately fail :( Oh well, I guess I'll then know which of the 3 is ( was :confused: ) intermittently the squeaky one.

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

You don't have to degas if u just want to remove the heater you can turn the aircon 90 degrees out of the way. It's fiddly but can be done...I have done it twice now, however it is easier with it out of the way. What I diid with my centre consul was to fit a large piece of Dowell above the window rocker switches and then fibreglassed and painted it all
Brad





Thanks for that. I think I'll throw it back together for now. It's a very basic dash obviously assembled by humans, not a factory... So I'm not fussed ( A few years back I changed the evaporator in my wifes Citroen XM .... It was 17 hours of labour to get it out and back in). I reckon I could have the Rangies out in less than an hour.

If a fan dies, I'll freshen up the A/C with some fresh oil, seals and drier (I have all the A/C gear here to do it myself) and get the heater matrix rodded out while I'm there and replace any "o"rings and heater hoses while the fans are out for new bushes/bearings.

See why I like old cars and passionately hate modern **** so much :) This Rangie is the most modern car I've ever owned (all my other cars are 30-55 years old). If a mere human built them with there hands.... generally they'll come apart in a similar manner.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Bradtot]

Just for your info I run lpg in my air con and it's never been better.even though I may get frowned upon by some it's been like that for about 6 years without any problems.:)

[DoubleChevron]

Just for your info I run lpg in my air con and it's never been better.even though I may get frowned upon by some it's been like that for about 6 years without any problems.:)

I just use HR12 (hychill) which is a blend of LPG/butane that closely resembled emulates the original R12. I used to know a crazy old guy that used LPG in his cars. You know, so long as it's dry and clean, it's probably fine... What are the high side pressure like running straight LPG ?

seeya
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

Do you guys know why I like that roadkill show on youtube ..... Do you know how I know it's not scripted ..... 'cos I've made most mistakes those guys do. I found 1hour saturday afternoon and got most of the dash back in (except the center console). I'm cruising to work this morning and hear the gas lines and tank starting to squeal as it runs out of gas. No worries, go to punch the button to swap over to petrol ................................................. Um, WTF ..... Where's the switch ....:eek: Pull of the road 'cos I know I've probably got 90seconds of LPG left before she dies..... Find the harness to the switch and follow it try and find the gas switch.............. And yep, now I have the harness and plug in hand .............. and no fuel selector switch. Hey it's good to know if you unplug that sucker it's stuck on whatever fuel your currently on I guess.

So I bravely pull out into the traffic and drive the kilometer to work and it cuts out as I coast into the carpark. So who else is probably pulling the dash out of there car in the carpark today in the lunch hour to try and find a fuel selector switch buried somewhere within :Rolling: :bangin: :imwithstupid:

[Mercguy]

I'm laughing with you, not at you :clap2::thumbsup::Rolling::D:D

[DoubleChevron]

Still haven't put this thing back together .... I'll be damned if I'll let this wiring beat me :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95219&stc=1&d=1434459511

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95220&stc=1&d=1434459511

I put two layers of that whiz bang heat insulation foil on the front floors and tranny tunnel. Fuse B4 should be the cigarette lighter, it's not blown, none of them are, and it has power at it. So no cigarette lighter (or phone charger as we call it these days) and no radio accessories.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95222&stc=1&d=1434459747

I'm sure everyone like me has found the fuses under the drivers seat (from the rear footwell.... these have nothing to do with our problems :( ).


Ok, under the passenger front seat ( right hand drive ) reach over the crossmember from the back seat footwell ....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95216&stc=1&d=1434459126

pop this off the top of the small plastic housing you can feel....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95217&stc=1&d=1434459143

2nd fuse from the right is the cigarette lighter, I bet you find it blown. Yes the main fuse box is RIGHT BESIDE the bloody cigarette lighter, yet somehow they loop the wiring all the way back here to fuse it .... work that one out. Should this car have a cigarette lighter at the back of the center console for the backseat? I reckon the wiring is there for one (the console is broken there ... let me guess.... ashtray and cigarette lighter is missing ?).

[DoubleChevron]

Ok, I have a cigarette lighter, still no accessory power.... I also stumbled across this (I sure didn't find it from looking ).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Up beside the steering column we have this

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Slide off what looks like a wiring plug ........... Damn it all, how many bloody places have they hidden fuses on this bloody car? No, there not blown, so nothing to do with the accessories power .... .Does anyone know of any other hidden fuse locations ???

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Look at the bloody mess I found under the steering column ....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I unwrapped the insulation tape from around 1/2 dozen wires and found this **** there :(

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

****ty wiring crimps aren't a decent connection either. I cut all this out and soldered the wiring and covered with heat shrink.

Still no accessories power .... must be more dodgy wiring repairs I havne't found somewhere that I've "bumped" pulling it apart...... I haven't found it yet though.

seeya,
Shane L.
PS: Oh yeah... I remember reading once that rubbing petroleum jelly into old plastic works ....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I'll be damned .... I wonder how long that lasts for, and if it'll attract dust once even though I've wiped any excess oil off.

[discojools]

Crikey mate there have been some proper bodges on your car.. Soldered wires left unsleeved, asking for disaster!

And I like the petroleum jelly hint.. I'll go and try it now!

[DoubleChevron]

Crikey mate there have been some proper bodges on your car.. Soldered wires left unsleeved, asking for disaster!

And I like the petroleum jelly hint.. I'll go and try it now!

Soldered ?? There the flash ones :Rolling: the "almost crimped" and "twisted together" ones are the best :roflmao: You know, almost every car I've ever owned I've found this sort of crap on. The trick is to unwind any insulation tape and "added" wiring that isn't factory ..... if it's ok you can just tape it back up. You know, it's almost NEVER ok..... :( ... This is the sort of stuff that'll leave you stranded somewhere. I bet your car is the same if you drop the plastic off and unwrap all the non-factory insulation tape. It'll be the brake controllers, car phones, alarms, stereos .... etc... fitted and removed as they broke (or the car was sold on) over the years.

Yeah that petroleum jelly .... weird right ?. It does make it 80% better... obviously anything damaged, stays scratched and damaged though.

seeya,
Shane L.

[Grumbles]

Yes - the Vaseline on vinyl is an old trick. The vinyl seems to need 'feeding' to remain supple.

it is best applied sparingly to warm vinyl trim as in leaving the car in the sun with the windows up. Wipe off any excess with a dry cloth.

[Disco-tastic]

Do you guys know why I like that roadkill show on youtube ..... Do you know how I know it's not scripted ..... 'cos I've made most mistakes those guys do.
Haha I love that show. So many good (but really, really crap) cars!

Cheers

Dan

[Mercguy]

Ok, I have a cigarette lighter, still no accessory power.... I also stumbled across this (I sure didn't find it from looking ).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Up beside the steering column we have this

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95224&stc=1&d=1434460000

Slide off what looks like a wiring plug ........... Damn it all, how many bloody places have they hidden fuses on this bloody car? No, there not blown, so nothing to do with the accessories power .... .Does anyone know of any other hidden fuse locations ???

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95226&stc=1&d=1434460236

Look at the bloody mess I found under the steering column ....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95227&stc=1&d=1434460236

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95228&stc=1&d=1434460236

I unwrapped the insulation tape from around 1/2 dozen wires and found this **** there :(

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=95229&stc=1&d=1434460236

****ty wiring crimps aren't a decent connection either. I cut all this out and soldered the wiring and covered with heat shrink.

Still no accessories power .... must be more dodgy wiring repairs I havne't found somewhere that I've "bumped" pulling it apart...... I haven't found it yet though.

seeya,
Shane L.
PS: Oh yeah... I remember reading once that rubbing petroleum jelly into old plastic works ....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/95221d1434459508-i-must-insane-p1170473.jpeg

I'll be damned .... I wonder how long that lasts for, and if it'll attract dust once even though I've wiped any excess oil off.

Absolutely everything you have discovered, I experienced within the first couple weeks of ownership, actually I posted stuff here not long after joining up - and you're mess looks just like mine did.:thumbsup:

The funniest thing is that your under-dash looks like it's had an aftermarket alarm removed from the exact same splice spot as mine.. I also had a cruise control unit, non-functioning temp alarm, dodgy stereo and a few other 'strange' wiring mods from jaycar thrown in for good measure.

Took me the best part of a week to remove all of it, and once i'd returned it to factory, the reverse switch on the ZF gearbox went on me - and I had fun rewiring that!

Petroleum jelly works great on the dash. Just wipe it over regularly and all will be good.

[DoubleChevron]

I heard a loud crack from underneath yesterday when I went to move off .... and momentary loss of drive.

Let me guess.... Chain in the borg warner transfer case jumping :confused: :confused: I can't get it to do it again, and I can't think of anything else it'll be.

I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for a disco wreck with an LT230 and manual gearbox to convert it over at some point .... reliability is always my preference :)

There's the ideal one for sale in Ballarat at the moment .... Low milage disco I, 3.9 V8 5spd manual..... stuffed engine, stuffed paint, roof lining hanging down unregistered and not running .... the only thing stopping me is the $3500 asking price :eek: ( How do you say "dreaming" ). :wasntme: I might leave it sit for another 6months and offer him $700 for it (it has new tires so those alone are probably worth that).

seeya,
Shane L.

[Bradtot]

Fix the Borg Warner there is nothing wrong with them when working..I love mine and I go just as far or further than anyone else:)
BRad

[DoubleChevron]

Yeah but if I'm going to pull the transfer, I'll whip the lot out and do the engine mounts and stick a 5spd gearbox in there. The slugomatic isn't ideal for towing as there is no lockup on 3rd..... and nowhere near enough power to tow in 4th (plus I don't like slugomatics much ... I much prefer the reliability and drivability of a proper manual gearbox :) ). I'd keep the borg warner otherwise .... but given the 5spd will already have a LT230 bolted to it ............. :)

seeya,
Shane L.

[DoubleChevron]

Well that's funny .... I was just about to post "The interior lights have decided to stay on ....... Where do I look for the damn timer" ..................... And when I opened this thread to post the message this jumped out at me :wasntme: :wasntme: :wasntme:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/classic-range-rover/95223d1434459884-i-must-insane-p1170497.jpg

So to answer my own question, you look for the interior light timer under the steering column :angel:

Actually .. the damn thing doesn't look to be seated firmly into it's base. Guess what I'm doing tonight .... sigh ....


seeya,
Shane L.

[dungarover]

That bloody timer delay, PIA!!!!!!


I already replaced that as the old man had the same issue when he bought the Rangie (interior lights didn't work at all). It's a strange type of relay, the Disco 1's and earlier RRC's had a different relay to that one (I went through about 4 Rangies I had here and didn't have one, the late 91-early 92's had some odd **** in them!!).


Trav

[DoubleChevron]

That bloody timer delay, PIA!!!!!!


I already replaced that as the old man had the same issue when he bought the Rangie (interior lights didn't work at all). It's a strange type of relay, the Disco 1's and earlier RRC's had a different relay to that one (I went through about 4 Rangies I had here and didn't have one, the late 91-early 92's had some odd **** in them!!).


Trav

She'll be right, I'll pull it apart and see what it is... Maybe I can just replace with a standard relay (which will lose the timer function).

seeya,
Shane L.