centrifugal oil filter.....

[ramblingboy42]

servicing Grumble , getting ready for the next big trip in a few weeks.

I haven't done oil change and filters until yesterday......always had our local mobile mech do it.

Undid retaining screws , cleaned and refitted every thing wondered why the screws weren't taking up. No effort at this point.

Removed screws and found both to be threadbound.....bugger.

easily tapped the engine side out but couldnt get into the other so ran a 6mm right through and used longer screw.

so, now I have one 8mm & one 6screw holding the cap down on the filter.

Question......I am a fitter by trade and think I have done thread repairs in all sorts of circumstances , but how do others on this forum.....or how have they managed to fit helicoils to the filter housing?

Cannot get to the outside hole due to a/c pipework.

Anyway , mine's repaired but I am very interested in how others drilled , tapped and fitted helicoils , especially to the outside hole.

[crash]

Watching with interest as I need to do the same to mine.
Lucky on mine that only part of the threads got stripped and only needed a longer bolt. Would like to fit helicoils in the future.

[twr7cx]

It's not that hard to remove the housing and repair it.

Two 10mm nuts securing the downpipes to the sump (some models have bolts instead of a nut/stud combination).

Three 13mm (I think?) bolts holding the housing to the oil cooler. You can access these using some extensions and a uni joint after removing the air filter box lid, pipe from air filter box to turbo and pipe from turbo to intercooler and the spin on oil filter. There is one on the front side which you can visibly see, the other two are on the turbo side and hard to see, but easy enough to feel and access.

Remove the serpentine belt. Undo the four bolts securing the air conditioning compressor to the accessories bracket.

Now that it's free and moves around, undo the two bolts that secure the down pipe to the filter housing. 10mm (I think?) spanner will do it.

Shift the air conditioning bracket out of the way, and you can get the oil filter housing out.

Reverse to refit after thread repairs.

Torque settings are:
Air conditioning compressor - 25NM
Oil filter housing - 25NM.
Down pipe to oil filter housing - 10NM
Down pipe to sump - 10NM.

How do I know this? I had to do it on the weekend in order to access the water pump.

[robbotd5]

Hey mate.
Mine suffered the same fate while it was still under warranty. The ham fisted twits at the stealer stripped the "front" thread. I decided to drill/tap out to M8 X 1.25. I drilled out to 6.5mm if I recall, using a cordless, with the filter lid on of course. I then got some key steel and ground a 1/4 square on it to accept a socket that suited the tap. Tapped them out (they are both open holes so no issues with the swarf). No issues since, just don't over tighten.
Regards
Robbo

[Ean Austral]

They have thread all the way thru, so a longer bolt will work. I also spoke with someone who had just drilled the housing and used a bolt and nut to clamp it down.


I drilled and helicoiled mine and from memory sitting on the engine you can drill and coil the inside hole.


Cheers Ean

[bob10]

I'm not surprised the centrifuge cover bolts are sometimes stripped, the torque value is just 10Nm / 7lbf.ft. , pretty low, Bob

[CU55TM Disco]

I read somewhere on here to change them to an Phillips Head machine screw, to eliminate future stripping by the unknowing.

[northiam]

The standard bolts M5 isnt it?
10nm torque for M5 thread is excessive!
Even a grade 8.8 bolt M5 would be torqued to only around 5nm

http://www.boltmasters.com.au/webfiles/boltmastersau/files/boltmasters_pty_ltd_recommended_assembly_torques.p df

Regards

[twr7cx]

The figures on that chart seem very low - I mean M10 bolts torqued to only 17NM!?!

I highly recommend replacing your lid bolts with ones that are at least 5mm longer - this allows them to use the full length of the thread.
The idea of philips head machine screws is a good one too. Personally I always use a torque wrench set to 10NM and have had no issues with damaging the threads.

[northiam]

The figures on that chart seem very low - I mean M10 bolts torqued to only 17NM!?!

I highly recommend replacing your lid bolts with ones that are at least 5mm longer - this allows them to use the full length of the thread.
The idea of philips head machine screws is a good one too. Personally I always use a torque wrench set to 10NM and have had no issues with damaging the threads.

M10 grade 8 @ 44nm looks right to me
M10 low tensile bolts 17nm also seems ok

The highest grade 12 high tensile bolts m5 are torqued to 9nm
10nm for the lid must be a typo in rave...

[ramblingboy42]

thanks for the replies.

yes there are some sumo wrestlers allowed to tighten bolts.

my mobile mech.....and a very good one.....is so strong.....the engine oil sump plug was done up so tight I had to ruin it to remove it....I knew this and had a new one on hand....broken clips on the auto trans oilpan.....replaced....even with the tongue broken they still hold well but could fail to locate the pan properly.

nothing has ever come loose on my D2 but now that I've taken over all servicing I have some insane struggles undoing some items.

it's all fun and now that I have the time I can do all the servicing on Grumble.