Moving defender door seals

[Ranga]

Anyone know if it's possible to move the door seals on a 95 model from the body to the door?

[Dervish]

You can use '07-on seals (on the door ones) on your truck; it just means drilling a few holes. I've done it and the arrangement is much better than the old seals; always accumulating dirt and getting kicked to pieces.

Not sure about moving the original sill seals to the door though.

[Scouse]

The door 'seals' along the lower edge changed a few times in the '90s. Some cars had a body seal, some a different seal on the doors.


If the owner complained about seeing the road through the gap, then both sets were usually fitted together.

[MLD]

yes you can. the following is a worthy replacement. requires drilling some holes in the door (4.8mm drill bit). the seals wrap around and up the sides of the door and are a vast improvement to the post 07 seals. A member posted a how to guide with photos and description, google it. On the post 07 defenders there are factory holes in the door requiring only 2 new holes per door. For pre 07 defenders you may need to drill each hole. Don't forget to paint the hole with an anti-rust paint.

Britcar (UK) Ltd

Part numbers are:

1 x LR029307, WEATHERSTRIP - DOOR - LOWER (2nd Row)

1 x LR029308, WEATHERSTRIP - DOOR - LOWER (2nd Row)

2 x LR029309, WEATHERSTRIP - DOOR - LOWER (Front Doors)

MLD

[Loubrey]

The unexpected good news for the day...

Land Rover (local dealer) just quoted me $56.10 ea for the two front ones (LR029309) to fit the 90 . That is cheaper than buying Britpart ones in the UK, never mind P&P!

Cheers,

Lou

[MLD]

The Britcar (not Britpart) ones look like this

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1036.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1037.jpg

MLD

[DiscoMick]

Last week I went to Clark Rubber, bought some door seal with peel-off adhesive backing, and fitted strips to the bottoms of the door openings on the body for all five doors. It seems to have made a big difference in sealing up the lower door gaps. And the good news is the seal only cost $9.95 a metre. You might consider trying this as a cheaper alternative to the official seals. About five metres should be enough (I bought six metres and had some left over). Clark Rubber has a wide range of door seals.

[Loubrey]

Sorry MLD,

My bad on misreading! Their price is 25.70 GBP ($49.87 at today's rates) for genuine Land Rover.

$56.10 collected from an Australian Main dealer is not too bad then as looking at Britcar's P&P it would work out a bit pricey.

Good website though - saved it as a favorite!

DiscoMick, I've had Clark Rubber strips for a few years now and they work great. They way the "proper ones" seals around the corner is however more what I'm interested in.

Cheers,

Lou

[Ranga]

Not quite sure we're on the same page, but I was actually wondering about moving all the rubber to the door - the whole way around. Is this possible?

[YOLO110]

Having taken my nearly new MY 14 off road last weekend and been through some mud etc, I pressure washed it all off, including the bottom of the doors...

When I opened them after, there was not a drop of water inside the car!!! ;)

Quite impressed... surprised actually! :)

[Loubrey]

Not quite sure we're on the same page, but I was actually wondering about moving all the rubber to the door - the whole way around. Is this possible?

Ranga,

Not sure if any of the OEM seals would fit, but I have in the past used the extrusion type strips sold by Clark Rubber.

You have the 20mm lip all around the door (except for the bottom on the later models) and self adhesive HD foam strip sticks pretty well if you prepare the surface with turps to remove any wax.

Both my my 300Tdi I drove around Northern Zambia and the last one in the UK had the seal on the doors. In Zambia to combat water streaming in unabated while driving on the near endless 500mm to 600mm deep flood plains during the rainy season. In the UK mainly to stop my right butt cheek freezing from the sub zero temperature wind sneaking through the door gaps!

Cheers,

Lou

[DiscoMick]

Ranga,

Not sure if any of the OEM seals would fit, but I have in the past used the extrusion type strips sold by Clark Rubber.

You have the 20mm lip all around the door (except for the bottom on the later models) and self adhesive HD foam strip sticks pretty well if you prepare the surface with turps to remove any wax.

Both my my 300Tdi I drove around Northern Zambia and the last one in the UK had the seal on the doors. In Zambia to combat water streaming in unabated while driving on the near endless 500mm to 600mm deep flood plains during the rainy season. In the UK mainly to stop my right butt cheek freezing from the sub zero temperature wind sneaking through the door gaps!

Cheers,

Lou

I experimented with fitting seals I got from Clark Rubber to the doors themselves, rather than to the body, but I found it made the doors stick out too far when I shut them.
So, instead, I just fitted a strip to the bottom of the door openings.
As well as improving the sealing at the bottom, it also seems that having the bottom of the door out slightly further has caused the top of the door to angle in slightly more against the seal on the top of the door opening and reduced wind noise. So, killed two birds with one stone.