View Full Version : Help me decide re bushes
PhilipA
6th February 2015, 10:40 AM
Following my last post re suspension bushes, the tightening of the pivot bolts on the front of the rear trailing arms has shut up the occasional clonk I had.
I inspected all my suspension arm bushes and the only crook ones appear to be the bushes between the trailing arms and the rear axle, and only the front ones on the rear axle.
The bushes are cracked about half way round at their front (away from the axle and towards the driveshaft) , both RH and LH. The cracks don't go right through but there appears to be other cracks on the other side of the bush ie (near the axle but towards the outside of the car.)
None of the bushes appear to have delaminated from the centre like RRC bushes do.
Anyway my quandary is this.
Do I buy just 2 bushes and replace them.?
Bearmach Aftermarket bushes from LR Direct are GBP 6 each and for 4 cost about $100 landed, while OEM LR bushes are GBP 28 each! so would cost about $250 landed.
Powerpro bushes are $320 for a full set including the pivot bushes or $208 fro the axle bushes only.
What is owners experience with aftermarket? Mario thinks Britpart are crap.
Is it worth just changing the 2 crook bushes, bearing in mind I am a bit skint having 2 car insurances, I camper insurance and rates all this month! ARGGGH.
Regards Philip A
Vern
6th February 2015, 10:57 AM
I'm a big fan of the SuperPro bushes, the feel like genuine rubber in the car, are easy to install, and local (although cheaper to purchase from the UK)
Never heard bad things about them, especially wear rate wise.
BUT there are haters out there because they think they are the same a nolathane/poly bushes which they definitely are not.
My 2c
lewy
6th February 2015, 12:27 PM
I am in the same boat,when you say easy to install please explain.is there a press needed for genuine and not for the other etc,this will\could be a deciding factor as labour is free if you can do the job at home,but having to buy a press etc has to be considered.
Tombie
6th February 2015, 12:29 PM
He's ^^^^ onto it!
Super Pro bushes from QLD...
Comparing Polyurethane from one manufacturer is like saying all tyres are the same because they are round and black. :cool:
Super Pro are brilliant, long lasting (installed correctly) and dont harm flex or ride...
Tombie
6th February 2015, 12:33 PM
I am in the same boat,when you say easy to install please explain.is there a press needed for genuine and not for the other etc,this will\could be a deciding factor as labour is free if you can do the job at home,but having to buy a press etc has to be considered.
Press or vise needed for both styles, and cutting the old metalastic bushes can take some work...
Putting in Superpro can usually be done with the factory jack and some lateral thinking :cool:
jboot51
6th February 2015, 01:00 PM
Check out supercheap auto for superpro bushes.
Dont know about other models but for 1995 ish defenders their price is very good.
could be a typo on their site
Hoges
6th February 2015, 07:30 PM
While removing the originals can be problematic without a press, the super pro bushes can be reasonably installed using a vise... with a couple of large washers, a 300mm length of 10mm threaded rod, a couple of nuts and plenty of lube on the bushes and the threaded rod... it's worth giving the inner edge of the bush housing on the radius arm a light file to round the sharp edge and ease the path of the new bush...
PhilipA
6th February 2015, 07:50 PM
While removing the originals can be problematic without a press
I guess I will do what I used to do with RRC bushes.
Run a drill through the rubber many times and then cut through the outer with a hacksaw then split them with a cold chisel and drive them out.
I have found a cheap supplier via Google and will order tomorrow . UK prices are now more than Oz prices due to the exchange rate I guess.
Regards Philip A
kelvo
6th February 2015, 11:29 PM
I guess I will do what I used to do with RRC bushes.
Run a drill through the rubber many times and then cut through the outer with a hacksaw then split them with a cold chisel and drive them out.
I have found a cheap supplier via Google and will order tomorrow . UK prices are now more than Oz prices due to the exchange rate I guess.
Regards Philip A
I've found using a hole saw to cut through the rubber bush to let the centre metal sleeve fallout, you can then collapse the outer sleeve with a small cold chisel and the bush just falls out.
Hoges
6th February 2015, 11:40 PM
If you have a steel cylinder (large water pipe/ ball joint extractor cup etc) of the correct diameter to put against the exit side of the bush housing to use as a receiving cup, and a large socket to push the bush out, then the threaded rod set up works OK if you have a long enough bar on the socket. An electric heat gun on the external housing also helps. That's one advantage of the 'plastic' housing on the P38 bushes in that once they start to move they slide reasonably easily.
Pedro_The_Swift
7th February 2015, 07:19 AM
Following my last post re suspension bushes, the tightening of the pivot bolts on the front of the rear trailing arms has shut up the occasional clonk I had.
I inspected all my suspension arm bushes and the only crook ones appear to be the bushes between the trailing arms and the rear axle, and only the front ones on the rear axle.
The bushes are cracked about half way round at their front (away from the axle and towards the driveshaft) , both RH and LH. The cracks don't go right through but there appears to be other cracks on the other side of the bush ie (near the axle but towards the outside of the car.)
Regards Philip A
I hate to be a PITA Phillip,,
but pics?:angel:
PhilipA
7th February 2015, 12:06 PM
I hate to be a PITA Phillip,,
but pics?:angel:
I tried but couldn't get a clear picture of the bush as the axle mount covers most of it and the camera would only focus on the mount. Maybe when I remove the arms.
Regards Philip A
kelvo
7th February 2015, 06:05 PM
I tried but couldn't get a clear picture of the bush as the axle mount covers most of it and the camera would only focus on the mount. Maybe when I remove the arms.
Regards Philip A
Do yours look anything like these?
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90346&stc=1&d=1423303490
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=90346&stc=1&d=1423296174
Hoges
7th February 2015, 06:19 PM
the setup I used to replace the front bushes in the P38 is explained here:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/144329-suspension-bushing-kits-10.html post #99 (pics included)
Was able to install the SuperPro bushes in Glenhendry's radius arms with 12mm threaded rod and an assortment of cups from a ball joint press kit. The radius arm being held firm in a sturdy vyse.
PhilipA
7th February 2015, 08:25 PM
Do yours look anything like these?
Not as bad as that but cracked in similar area.
Regards Philip A
kelvo
7th February 2015, 09:59 PM
I managed to get hold of a new Polybush Kit 20 for not many $s, as the 2 watts linkage bushes were missing.
I've only fitted the panhard rod bushes so far, still trying to workout if I can refit the radius arms to chassis bush without a press. The D2 is in daily use so need to get it right first time :o
PhilipA
9th February 2015, 12:57 PM
OK for reference of those who need bushes, I have bought a set of Superpro SPF2135K from a company called SparesPro , who seem to be cheapest at $165.20 incl postage.
BTW Kelvo, I would replace those bushes soon as IMHO the ability of the axle to pivot will affect your donut pretty quickly, as one of the major reasons for the layout is to help the donut by keeping the axle in alignment with the donut/driveshaft.
Regards Philip A
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