Headgasket YAY

[Epic_Dragon]

well folks, the head gasket bug finally got my beasty. i suppose it has been happening the whole time since i left my emergency repair tiny hose on there for i think 8/9 months rather than a few days which eventually melted off the expansion tank and coolant went off on its own adventure without my car. (i had broken the hose in the first place when trying to get the air box back is as had pulled it out to clean the gunk and mud out of it) so car overheated well guage moved a tiny bit and car shut itself off. but i am guessing damage was done thanks to the wonderful idea of plastic dowels (can someone please explain to me why this happens as the bolts should hold it in place shouldnt they?) but since then i have been chasing coolant leaks which i assumed were just because its done 330000 kms now and hoses etc get old. the system had been slowly over pressurizing. then finally a hose split, car got extremely hot as it happened so fast the car didnt even know it was hot it just died before guage even moved! and since then coolant pushed out expansion tank, and im all like noooooo. being disabled, my car is the only one i can drive, it gives me an independence that when its disco down, that little bit of independence is gone :( had some wishful thinking of it just being radiator, thermostat or water pump or just the tank cap. but alas, got the car checked and yep head gasket confirmed.

so now open heart surgery has begun. poor car is looking bit sorry for itself and i am mourning my downed comrade. the head should be ready to pick up today after being checked and checked again and having valves reseated etc. one plastic dowel was in 2 pieces, the other had some fancy sideways jig going on. pics included in this thread :) can tell which cylinder was getting a bit of moisture thanks to a bit of surface rust!

so now my question is landrovians, those whom have done this as well, what do you recommend checking/replacing whilst the head is off. as when my car is back together i do not want it to be in the sick bay again for a very long time! i also do not know how to tell which sized head gasket it is, one hole, two hole or three hole. i have been googling through this forum but there is a lot of different stuff, and then a lot of defender stuff, so i am not sure on what is same and different between the td5s in defenders and discos. plus in starting another thread on the topic, its another source of valuable information for the next person bitten by the head gasket bug.

plastic dowels will not be returning to my vehicle, the metal one will be going in!
i also know the head bolts will need to be replaced.
i am hoping to god timing is ok! its locked in the top dead centre place so fingers and toes crossed all is good there!
checking welshplugs might be a good idea too, had one replaced/fixed 7 weeks ago ish. well it was that weird looking welsh plug

so here are some piccies, and thankyou in advance folks :)

oh i do have a rave disc but its gone to that magical place that is supposed to be a safe place, then vanishes without a trace.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/646.jpg (http://s1020.photobucket.com/user/Epic_Dragon1985/media/20150201_175641_zps1nwiwz3i.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/647.jpg (http://s1020.photobucket.com/user/Epic_Dragon1985/media/20150201_175410_zpsoqz3wa6s.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/648.jpg (http://s1020.photobucket.com/user/Epic_Dragon1985/media/20150201_181322_zpsnmjkjhuu.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/649.jpg (http://s1020.photobucket.com/user/Epic_Dragon1985/media/20150201_175852_zpsahtrraau.jpg.html)

[landy]

You haven't had much luck lately!
That little hose under the Exhaust manifold should be replaced without exception. That little $10 piece of rubber nearly cost me a head gasket $&???!!!!
If funds permit I would definety replace the water pump and thermostat with Gen/OEM Parts and flush the radiator.
If you don't replace the water pump at least remove it and check the drive tangs aren't broken and that the pump works correctly.

Good luck ! Are you doing the work yourself?

[Epic_Dragon]

no kidding i am a magnet for bad stuff, always have been. i think i must have been very bad person in a previous life, because i dont do anythign bad, always helping anyone who needs it best i can and still get rotten deal LOL!

that tiny little hose is what split when this all happened! so that is a new hose :)

water pump is a very good idea! as that is easy to get to whilst off. have a thermostat ready to go in too.
yep work is being done at home. cant afford to use the professionals, and after the manifold saga least doing it at home know that stuff isnt going to get stolen!even though i know cannot put all professionals in the same basket just because one place is suss. have only ever done old holden v8 headgaskets before, and old 4cyl mazda haha. this is really different compared to those.

[Pippin]

Gasket size is determined by looking at the front (Timing cover end) drivers side of the old gasket, where there will be a series of holes 1 hole, 2 holes or three, that tells you what gasket to get.
Nick

[Ean Austral]

Gasket size is determined by looking at the front (Timing cover end) drivers side of the old gasket, where there will be a series of holes 1 hole, 2 holes or three, that tells you what gasket to get.
Nick


I may be wrong but isn't there also a gasket size with no hole. Seem to recall reading it somewhere.


Cheers Ean

[discorevy]

dowels are required to stop the head from moving around , the plastic ones are known to crumble . the one in the photo has shown your head has moved allowing gasket to fail , there are only three sizes of gasket available
1 hole = 1.27mm
2 hole = 1.20mm
3 hole = 1.35mm
if you are unable to determine as pippin described which size , post a photo of the gasket and i will tell you , gasket thickness is determined by piston height above the block ( do you have access to a dial gauge or accurate verniers ?)

[Pippin]

Hi Ean,


From what I have read there are only the 3 sizes available.


Cheers
Nick

[Pippin]

I think in the second photo you can see that it is a 1 hole gasket.


Cheers
Nick

[Outback 1]

While you have it removed i would have the intake manifold cleaned by the engine shop

Sent from my GT-S7275Y using AULRO mobile app

[Epic_Dragon]

i will get a photo of the head gasket later, theres no gasket on there in any of those piccies.
the inlet manifold should be ok as car came with egr blanking valve :) but will check it whilst it is off.
have a dial guage somewhere if i can find it!

[Epic_Dragon]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/643.jpg (http://s1020.photobucket.com/user/Epic_Dragon1985/media/20150210_161222_zpsrz3az7g2.jpeg.html)

[discorevy]

1 hole it is then , bit hard to tell against the background but top right of the photo on the edge of the gasket approx 90 mm down from front of gasket
That be the hole

[Eevo]

i cant see any obvious problems with that HG, what am i not seeing?

[Epic_Dragon]

Cool i thought so thankyou discorevy :) the head moved eevo which is why the head gasket went. The actual gasket did not actually fail. They are a none reusable item as far as im aware anyway even if look fine.

[Pippin]

I think in the second photo you can see that it is a 1 hole gasket.


Cheers
Nick

You can usually tell by the imprint left behind by the gasket.

[discorevy]

You can usually tell by the imprint left behind by the gasket.

Well , you could tell if the holes were over the block, which on a TD 5 they are not, sorry Pippin. Nice try

[Pippin]

Not being one to give up easily I'll have a look in the morning and eat humble pie then if I am wrong.

[Pippin]

Humble pie it is for my breakfast discorevy. But I still think I can see a gasket on the 2nd picture down, must be like the Turin Shroud then:D

[discorevy]

You may be a mechanical medium , able to envision the torment the gasket suffered in its last few weeks. :D

[Epic_Dragon]

Heads been checked etc and no cracks :) 90499

[Epic_Dragon]

Does anyone know if there is meant to be a gasket here? As looks like residule goo but there wasnt a gasket there. 90505

[Pippin]

No there is not a gasket there. You will need to "Apply an even (thin) film of sealant, part no. STC4600 to camshaft carrier face and spread to an even film using a roller." (I used a decorators 1" foam trimming roller and got a good result.) And be very careful of oil ways and Cam journals.
Nick


I used Permatex Rigid High-Torque Gasket Maker 599BR

[Epic_Dragon]

Thankyou :) we have have gotten to the bit of torquing the bolts that hold the top bit of the head. One actually just snapped so now not sure what to do. Was torquing up to 24ft/pounds as another thread was saying. Might be the ancient torque wrench but not sure

[Epic_Dragon]

Are the bolts that hold two halves of the head special at allor just one that size,length and thread ok? Google just likes to talk about the long head bolts lol

[discorevy]

Good stuff , couple of things , when sourcing the steel dowels , try to get the spring steel roll pin type with gap in the circumference to allow for the different expansion rates. that way the head will have less stress around those area's making it less prone to crack/warp.
Also when refilling with coolant use distilled or rainwater if using concentrate ( I use OAT ) , never had a problem
Make sure you have no signs of Oily sludge in the coolant overflow bottle as now would be the time to do the oil cooler
Cheers

[discorevy]

Stop , just read your post pretty sure cam carrier bolts are 24 NM not ft/lb
You wil cause damage 17.5 ft/lb is about what you want

[Epic_Dragon]

Ahh yep the ancient torque wrench didn't work at all so no mattee what we set it at it would still have over tightened :( only ever used OAT in my car too :) need one new cam carrier bolt now :( and a decent torque wrench LOL

[Epic_Dragon]

Been following another thread on here for the torque settings too they must have gotten lucky

[landy]

Just looking at the picture of the head on the kitchen chair. You still have the injectors in the head.
Is the head resting directly on the seat base or is it on some type of wooden spacer?
I would check that you haven't damaged the injector tips.

[Epic_Dragon]

the injector tips are poking out the bottom, i do not think they are damaged, well i hope not lol.

[Epic_Dragon]

Well when that one cam carrier bolt broke the thread is damaged so now bolts in that hole will not tighten up :( glad that changing water pump too as old ones a bit yuck lol 90599

[PhilipA]

I noticed the rust in your waterways and that corrosion confirms the coolant was not changed regularly.
I would also check the pump bracket oring , and it doesn't bode well for the oil cooler either.
Regards Philip A

[discorevy]

did you get all the other bolts in and torqued?, if yes , will be a pita to helicoil (but doable)
did you check all the lifter heights against one another to make sure none had collapsed?, best to leave the injectors and glow plugs out until the head is on to avoid damage. Once you have torqued head bolts, clean and put a dot with a paint pen on the top of each bolt facing the front of the engine , that way you will know how many degrees and how many bolts you have done so you dont get mixed up. If it starts to do your head in, walk away , then come back fresh:D
cheers

[Epic_Dragon]

My coolant has been changed a lot in the last 2 years lol, as ive been chasing leaks and had pipes break and thermostat replaced. Which has been done at home.i dont know how old the water pump is though. its only had rainwater through it for a broken 2 months as mechanic qho fixed the Welsh bung plug thing did not replace with coolant and then i put coolant in and then all this happened :( only ever had OAT in too. Not sure is water pump could be like that from long before i owned it? Its almost back together now :D headbolts all torqued and correct proceedure followed. Do you know if head bolts need rechecking in a few thousand kms at all? That one cam carrier bolt is only iffy one. All others of those all torqued up too. A working torque wrench makes all the difference haha. I cant wait to have my fallen comrade back! Im getting nervous now hoping everything is going together how it should. Triple checked everything along the way and nothing out if place and lifters etc happy little campera. Everything was cleaned that needed cleaning, and everything that needed pre oiling as been oiled. Hers how the beasty looks at the moment. 90617

[Epic_Dragon]

Does anyone know how/if these need timing? hand turning seems all good..cam was locked top dead centre before pulling apart. Not sure if crank needs lining up too or if the marks on the chain do it all lol

[Pippin]

The head bolts do not need to be rechecked at any time. Yes it is worth locking the crank at TDC by a suitable pin into the flywheel through the locking aperture in the bell housing and getting the timing spot on.


Nick

[Epic_Dragon]

How do you get the timing spot on? Lol had a locking pin up the top at top dead centre

[Pippin]

Ideally you need to lock both with pins, for the bell housing pin a drill of a suitable size will do to position the crank at TDC on No.1 cylinder. With the pin also in the camshaft the workshop manual describes the process as follows:
12. Check that mark on camshaft sprocket is positioned between the 2 coloured links on timing chain.
13. Position sprocket to camshaft, fit and lightly tighten 3 new bolts then loosen bolts half a turn.
14. Clean fixed guide Allen screw and apply Locktite 242 to screw threads.
15. Fit fixed timing chain guide Allen screw and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lbf.ft)
16. Clean timing chain tensioner and fit new sealing washer.
17. Fit timing chain tensioner and tighten to 45Nm (33 lbf.ft)
18. Tighten camshaft sprocket bolts to 37Nm (27lbf.ft)
Etc.....................................
Nick

[Epic_Dragon]

Thanks pippin. I do wish i could find my RAVE cd. Boy it is warm out there. Helicoil kits are also elusive taken ages to locate today lol.

[Pippin]

Good luck. Only 20 degrees here, but the Tiger Snake outside my kitchen window doesn't seem to mind.

[Epic_Dragon]

Oh my god that is a tad close lol! Get fair few browns and red bellys at home. Air con also just died here. And i changed font on my phone and even in here it changed it haha phone app!

[shack]

I never followed it through, but reading this reminded me that we used new plastic dowels when we rebuilt ours, when we queried the place that sold the kit ,they said LR still recommended the plastic dowels upto a certain engine no. Anybody know if this is true?

I think i've seen it mentioned somewhere that the head only moves if its been overheated ,so even when using the steel dowels you may need another head gasket anyway

[Epic_Dragon]

D day today disco will be turned over in a few hours! Nervous haha. I think these days the steel dowels are listed item to replace plastic as i am pretty sure they stop head moving?

[Pippin]

Remember to purge air out of the fuel system, even after that it won't start easily as there may be air in the injectors and the lifters may also not be primed.
Good Luck

[Epic_Dragon]

Yep need to remember that i know its pump or press accelerator when i do something with ignition ill Google it. Done it twice when had to let water out of fuel pump :)

[discorevy]

remember to turn engine over by hand to make sure cam timing is correct (ign off)
ie: no valves touching pistons. turn crankshaft through 720 degrees (2 full turns) and camshaft should be in exactly the same spot

[Epic_Dragon]

Purging fuel and a few primes and fingers crossed :(

[dswatts]

Purging fuel and a few primes and fingers crossed :(

And????:(

[Epic_Dragon]

Took some persuasion but she lives. Rattly though not sure why ir what it is

[Epic_Dragon]

Rattle noise seems to be lifters now hitting those metal plates on the rocker cover. Not sure why that is happening now :/

[Epic_Dragon]

Now it seema the knocking noise is the new water pump? Not sure. Kind of stumped

[Epic_Dragon]

Well it all just sucks because while it doesnt overheat now and seems to run fine, its now pouring oil out from between the two halves of the head along the passengers side, plus the weird noise it is making. Was not leaking oil before as had finally gotten oil leaks fixed. The two head halves were gasket gooed as well. So either have done something wrong or used wrong stuff or missed a step or something. Have no idea :(

[Epic_Dragon]

Gasket has failed between the two halves of the head. So now have different goo to redo that. The noise unsure but going to make sure injector clearances are perfect.

[bee utey]

I'm thinking you've stripped a few bolt hole threads between the head sections by over tightening. You might need some helicoils to fix it. When the leaky gap is gone your tapping may disappear too.

[Epic_Dragon]

They all torqued up well and correctly so dont think that they are stripped. There is one that had to helicoil. But the gasket had failed between head halves as the goo didnt work. Tried different and seems to be holding. Also made sure bump clearances were perfect and seems to be purring nice now

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Pics of the gasket Epic?:o

[Epic_Dragon]

The old one? Haha yeah ill find them and post them. The old gasket had not failed as such but head had moved as one dowel sheered other not straight. Only weird thing its doing now is first time use accelerator after start up it doesnt register fast. Reversing today turned aircon on and pushed accelerator and nothing. No revs no movement. Then airon to econ mode and it started to respond. Redid when got home (13kms) and responded to pedal as normal. MAP was cleaned not long ago, MAF replaced last year. Plus disco has tune from TRS. So this has only been this bad since putting it back together. Set injector clearance as per RAVE so not sure if they are slightly out. Or if Trans which is 330000kms old and due for a service is cause. Though wish was cable accelerator not fly by wire stuff.

[discorevy]

Two things to look at which may cause those symptoms
Air in fuel , did you replace injector washers ?, was everything spotless when doing them?
The other is retarded cam timing
Does it start first go?

[discorevy]

you say the gasket failed between the head halves........
Which gasket do you mean?.
Cheers

[Epic_Dragon]

it starts fine first go, purged fuel system several times. injector washers were replaced and all spotless. im not sure if could be retarded cam timing, followed RAVE proceedure on locking chain/pulley/cams in place. but does not mean it isnt the cause.

it otherwise sounds great and super smooth! just the initial when it is cold and use the pedal it just does not register, very delayed throttle response which seems to then be ok when car is warm.
the gasket was the goo one you have to make with a gasket goo between the cam carrier and the rest of the head. so not a proper gasket per say but one now made using 518 loctite flange sealant :) and thus far not leaking.

[discorevy]

Sounds good , when doing cam timing with crank /cam locked in position you need to back off the three cam bolts then turn the pulley anti clockwise so there is no slack in the chain , then tighten bolts to specs, might be a pita to check again but this might be your prob if you have no air noises from the fuel pump
Cheers Craig

[Epic_Dragon]

I think it is something to do with timing slightly off. Its very sluggish throttle response not just when taking off. Is there a way to do it with a timing light? Or just the way you mention there?

[discorevy]

Only the way previously mentioned ,unfortunately, so rocker cover off , cam plug out, but compared to what you've done its a walk in the park:)
It'll be running sweet after that, ( timing light is for ignition timing of a petrol engine, this is cam timing)
Let me know how you go;)

[Epic_Dragon]

Thankyou :) yeah timing etc is where i tend to get to limit of my knowledge haha. Shall do. Hopefully it returns my car to its former speedy self! Just so glad to have the beast back though. Missed my Landy

[Epic_Dragon]

90801

[Epic_Dragon]

well the cam timing is obviously the cause of the issue, or even the injector clearances too. and after following proceedure, ive got an even more sluggish disco that is using loads of fuel. so going to speak to mechanic today but might be time to take it in and get him to check and sort it out and tell us what we are doing wrong with timing the dam thing. the cam tensioner has also now some how tightened itself extremely tight. when it has been fine. and no socket large enough and im not sure size it is. has always been easy to remove with a big adjustable spanner. my disco was heaps zippy before all of this with its tune/chip thing :( now it is rediculous and extremely frustrating :(

[discorevy]

sorry to hear that epic, socket size is 27 mm or i think 1.1/8in in the old school
best not to drive it like that, .....so you locked the crank from under the car in tdc number 1 when the cam is in the position with the little cutout that you can see when looking down the locking pin hole ?. 2 turns of the crank =1 turn of the cam so you may have to do another full rotation of the crank to get the cam near position .pm me if you get stuck. remember to walk away for a while if you want to bash it with a hammer:angel:

[Epic_Dragon]

Haha i never want to bash my car my partners made up a few new words though :O haha! But remotivated thanks to the mechanic. Shoutout to PCB Landrovers and how awesome he is!! But seems to be the injector bump clearances. The how to saying "bottom out" is easy to misinterpret. So now that has been explained and know what right feel is hopefully after later my zippy disco should be back in fine form. so almost there. Will update later :) then hopefully its good for a long time to come and my reliable steed returned! I also lost my engine cover bolts :/ LOL
The crank bit was also a missed step. Cam is always lined up and locked. But crank need to remove the bash plate to see that line up mark.

[Epic_Dragon]

has anyone got a pic of the crank timing pin thing? or location of it? just to double check got right area. only RAVE manual i can find to download/view seems to forget about td5. and extensive google has the camshaft timing stuff and says about the crank but no info on location or images or a diagram to be found.
thanks in advance :)

[Epic_Dragon]

All good! Its been located!! :D

[Epic_Dragon]

MY CAR IS BACK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 😁😁😁😁😃😃😃😃😃😃😃😃
reference notes for anyone doing this, when checking injector clearances full tilt is when valves are fully open! We had done full tilt fully closed! So folks FUllY OPEN!!! And cam and crank must line up!

[discorevy]

Great news epic , what an epic,, just for your reference there are no valves to speak of in the injectors , but we know what you mean:)

[Epic_Dragon]

Yeah haha i dont know what to call em haha. Cars going good now. The bolt that covers the crank locking hole is missing though. So might see if can locate one from somewhere

[Pippin]

There is no bolt Epic!


It is as you found it,


Nick

[Epic_Dragon]

Thanks pippin. The saga continues :, ( cooked its self towing. Cruising along fine. Then no power. Then i pull over and turn off. Smells like on fire. Over pressurized. Bubbling but no coolant out. I think my old cap is still on it ao ill change back to new one. Radiator might be blocked. Guage did not move until turned ign on after. So just git car back good and the nightmare keeps chasing me :( im very upset as its always been reliable and this is doing my head in. Head was pressure checked too. :(

[Pippin]

I really do wonder about the head, it may have a crack. What just happened is symptomatic of a cracked head and I know that from experience. If changing the cap makes no difference which I doubt you should seriously consider that you have a stuffed head.
Good luck
Nick

[Epic_Dragon]

Yeah if its stuffed then im not too impressed with the place that checked and tested it :(

[discorevy]

Don't panic just yet , did you refill coolant by lifting the coolant overflow and removing the bleed valve on the top hose till it flowed coolant with no air bubbles when you did the head , if so , did you change thermostat?

[Epic_Dragon]

It could be an air bubble. Going to rebleed tomorrow. Normally use bleed screw and have had no issues previously. But have not bled system that way. The coolant didnt spit out or change levels like before it would push it out

[discorevy]

And the thermostat, was it changed?.

[Pippin]

Discorevy is correct that it is worth changing the Thermostat as well as the Cap, however what may be happening is when you load the engine either hard up hill or towing, the extra heat generated in the head can open up cracks or head gasket leaks and cause the symptoms you describe. I hope not but it is likely I'm afraid.
Nick

[Epic_Dragon]

Thermostat is new. Replaced last year then got new genuine one which put on when was fixing head gasket so its brand new. Wouldnt the checks pic up on that though pippin? It's not lost water or stayed pressurized. Like before system was always pressurized lol

[Epic_Dragon]

How do we find out if head is cracked with it on the car? Same way as before with a pressure check? I am booking it in with pcb but will take a few weeks as hes very booked up so sussing out what i can in the meantime

[discorevy]

Is there any evidence of coolant anywhere? . check carpet is not wet , is the viscous fan working, did the water pump locate to back of power steering pump when fitted .you said there was a noise from that area originally.When you had to redo the oil leak on the cam carrier you would have had to undo the head bolts again , possibly breaking the gasket seal, try checking these things in that order ( easiest to hardest)

[Pippin]

You can't. But try bleeding the cooling system again carefully. It is important to fill the system with the expansion tank raised about 10cm and the bleed screw out until you get a steady flow of coolant from the bleed screw hole. Replace the bleed screw, cap and relocate the tank. Then bring it up to operating temperature and check the level again. Also before you do all this check that the small metal tube in the expansion tank is not blocked, which is quite common after your issues.
Nick


Head bolts single use and gasket?????????????????????

[discorevy]

What pippin said + check telltale has a stream of coolant when engine is running, this can be seen when cap removed , they can also block, if so remove little hose from radiator end and check, if its clear and no coolant is coming out , this can mean either water pump not working or system not bled

[Nanna Truck]

Hello Epic
With a bit of luck there may be not much damage. I note that you have a "chip". Yesterday was 40+ degrees and you were towing. If you were up around Mt Barker, or Freeway, on a long climb it WILL overheat. Did you notice if the air con shut off and then started to shut down cylinders? The repair shop you are booked into recommends coming back in the gears and using higher revs to keep the air flow through the engine and run about three quarter throttle. East or South out of here with 2 tonnes behind requires the above strategy.
Good Luck
Regards
Harry.

[Epic_Dragon]

Yeah ive towed in that way always and have never had an issue over heating until all of this. Even towing almost to limit of tow capacity on boiling days and air con on :( ill re bleed that way by lifting expansion tank. no coolant evidence anywhere. Ill check thw little hoses too. And new bolts etc were used. Water pump is new too. Fan is good as well. I hope to figure this out soon :(

[Epic_Dragon]

Well changed the radiator cap.as so far its not over pressurized again. Still not trusting my normally faithful car however. The trans seems to be having some issues going into lock up. And abs light keeps going on and off lol. Seriously sick of the gremlins that have hitched onto my car. I will find them and i will kill them all!!! But trans service and radiator flush on the cards this weekend. Still makes a weird rattly noise since head gasket was done. Power seems to be normal though.

[carldjohnston]

What an "Epic" thread, thanks for the insight!

I'm looking to do the same to my car in the next month or so; I guess what I've taken away from this is to:
- Have a copy of RAVE, and the relevant sheets printed out
- Get some timing pins
- Make sure that all bolts are carefully torqued to spec
- Be careful with the injectors, remove them while the head is in the car
- Take your time

Could you add anything else?

Cheers, Carl

[discorevy]

Take note of any oil leaks that are coming from under the head and repair while it's off
also good opportunity to de- web and drill out number 1 and 5 on exhaust manifold
ditto for fuel cooler O rings, replace with viton
definatley don't use silicon between head halves, this blocks oil galleries and will destroy lifters, cam, and injector rockers at the least.
I have had two people who have brought their car after having done this job in that way within the last year.
If not there already replace head dowels with spring steel roll pin type with cutout to allow for expansion
Don't stress , it's not that hard a job;)

[Pippin]

Discorevy I used Permatex rigid high-torque RTV silicone 599BR applied with a 1'' paint roller. While the paint roller is a great way to apply sealant sparingly to the head halves I am now a little nervous of the silicone which was recommended by a local mechanic, what would you recommend people use?

[kelvo]

Discorevy I used Permatex rigid high-torque RTV silicone 599BR applied with a 1'' paint roller. While the paint roller is a great way to apply sealant sparingly to the head halves I am now a little nervous of the silicone which was recommended by a local mechanic, what would you recommend people use?

Land Rover say to use part number STC4600 which is Hylomar 3400.

[Pippin]

Thanks Kelvo, I tried to get that but it was not readily available, but I am OK with the result using Permatex, I think it is more of an issue if applied excessively or carelessly on this application.

[discorevy]

Yep Pippin you are correct about the excessive amount being the culprit , I should have been more specific , what you have used is fine
The last one had used excessive amounts of non hylomar or rtv completely blocking oil supply to all lifters/ inj rockers bar 2 , this , I was told was from a workshop :eek:. Amazingly it had lasted for 6 months until a cam follower had come off , bending a valve, all injector rocker rollers were worn flat destroying cam.
Said workshop paid for parts, has since shut down ....Wonder why