D2, V8 non starting event with odd error codes and IACV replacement or repair.

[clubagreenie]

So yesterday after stopping at shops it decided it wouldn't start. Plenty of turnover, fueling ok, could hear pump priming at ign on and smell unburnt fuel in exhaust.

Initial error codes were p1668, immobiliser/alarm/bcu comms error. With that had the M&S flashing (with the gear led at the shifter flashing in D also). Cleared codes and also ended up deleting the keys and resyncing. During this time (around 40min of trying different settings incl turning the alarm system off (which did nothing for the problem)) it also occasionally just shut down and needed the Nanocom unplugged (to put the BCU back into run mode (with Nanocom comms it's "turned off" from function as you can change things, as also with the SLABS section, that are detrimental to safety when driving)).

Eventually got it to start, and while idling I was checking the ECU status and what the feedback was telling about what was going on. After about 5min idling it just died again.

Another 20min or so after having another random play, got it started again it needed to keep the revs well up and even then could not just hold it at higher revs but needed dynamic revving. Got it home thanks to a skater boy who dropped the bonnet for me so I could keep revving.

Found the following codes:






P0102 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Fault Drive Cycle A
P1000 - Lambda Sensor Upstream Catalyst Bank 2 Drive Cycle C
P0175 - Mixture Adaption Factor FRA Bank 2 Drive Cycle C
P0134 - Lambda Sensor Upstream Catalyst Bank 1 Drive Cycle C
P0505 - Blocked Idle Air Control Valve Drive Cycle A
P1000 - Air Flow to Throttle Angle Cross Check Fault Drive Cycle B


First fault was due to testing post noticing the blocked IACV fault, disconnected the whole inlet tract to check filter and duct for blockages.

Second and fourth faults (lambda sensors) are a persisting fault, purchased new O2 sensors from ebay after looking through preferred suppliers and reviews on here but they cause more issues than they fix. Rough idling when cold and hot stalling.

Third fault, unknown, appeared with this list. Related somehow.

Fifth fault seems to be the root cause of the non starting. I disconnected the bypass hose that runs from before the throttle body through the IACV and re-enters after TB. Disconnected it would start first time and idle flawlessly. What's strange is that there is plenty of suction of bypass air through the IACV and hose (the end normally connected before the TB).

Sixth fault is probably caused by the disconnection of the hose and the imbalance of air flow/mass in relation to the throttle position sensor.

So is it possible there is a fix for the IACV or is it replacement only, in which case does anyone have one spare or wrecking D2V8 in Sydney?

REPLACEMENT ONLY, IN WHICH CASE DOES

[Modelsp]

give Bundalene a call
0418251793
Probably got 10 spares buried in his backyards in tins,
as ther's no room left in the shed
he's out at Horsley Park
not too far from anywhere really

[ashhhhh]

Does the actuator inside actually rotate?
Maybe give it a good clean with some throttle-body cleaner or similar.

If not, replace.

[ashhhhh]

Bit odd it started with those random alarm/ecu errors, could be a wiring issue too?
Maybe disconnect and reseat all connectors to the ECU/BCU.

[clubagreenie]

Got a spare ICV and when plugged it it hums/vibrates over the original which is inert. But will start on either, run with valve inlet open to atmosphere, stall when inlet plugged (as should getting no idle air). Idles smoother on the new unit so will be testing tomorrow. If you don't hear back I'll be stopped on the roadside somewhere.

Thinking the alarm stuff may have been the phantom chemist parking issues that crop up. Tested connections and theres no stray currents or earths where they shouldn't be.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

If you don't hear back I'll be stopped on the roadside somewhere.


Hmmmm...

[lewy]

Hmmmm... again\still

[clubagreenie]

OK, got it running. Idles very roughly WITH the ICAV connected as normal (the spare is installed ATM) Swapped back to the original and it now also makes the same noise. Put the spare back on as it came off a running car.

IACV function is when Ign @ run power is sent to the unit and the "valve" which is shaped like a snail shell/scroll moves very slightly to open. When idling, hose disconnected it's actually closed further with a lot of vacuum (only fair since the engine is breathing entirely through it).

Got some new codes.

P0134 O2 sensor bank a - known
P1000 O2 sensor bank b - known

P1553 Idle Air Control Valve fault (closing) Drive cycle A:Signal out of range - above maximum.
P1510 Idle Air Control Valve fault (opening) Drive cycle A:Signal missing.

*** Above may be due to playing with valve with screw driver to check function.

And here's a goody

P1000 (P1129) - Upstream oxygen sensors connected incorrectly (swapped) Drive cycle C:Signal implausible.

P1129 is from a list of codes for the description, displayed on Nanocom as P1000. Oddity as the O2 sensors haven't been touched (yet).

At idle with everything connected idles quite rough, down to 300rpm. At times the revs will jump back to normal (600-680) and be perfectly smooth and then slowly degrade back to rough idle at 600ish and then eventually drop again.

Some figures from the Nanocom at idle. I don't know what they should be "normally".

In instrument mode:

Air Load - 0.00
Idle Air - 1.09
Idle Load Air - 0.09

In Naocom, Motronic, live data.

MAF Sensor - 20
Idle Air - 97 (approx varied +/- 1 or 2)
IACV Drive - 43
Idle Load Air - 0.15
Average Trim Bank A - 0.99
Average Trim Bank B - 0.99
Load Air - 0.00
Fuel Trim A - 1.00
Fuel Trim B - 1.00
Idle Trim A - 0.04
Idle Trim B -0.17
Multi Trim A - 1.00
Multi Trim B - 1.10
Secondary Air - Active
Adaptive Purge - 52.08
Leak Rate - 0.68
Loop - Open
Evap - Active
Roughness - Cyls 1,3,5,7 - varying 0 - 3.6
Roughness - Cyls 2,4,6,8 - 0.00
Timing - (at idle) approx 12deg adv across all cyls. When revved, all cyls are as equal as you'd expect, up to max 36deg.
O2 Sensor A - 0.00 B 0.00
Shunt Voltage - 0.11
O2 Heater Resistance - Ready
Heater Status - on

Downstream O2 Sensor Shunt Voltage - 0.99/4.79 ***value alternates*** also nil downstream O2 sensors.

Upstream O2 Sensor Shunt Voltage - 1.00/4.79 ***value alternates***
Upstream Lambda A output - 1.00/4.79
Upstream Lambda B output - ready
Heater Status - on/off (alternating)

So if anyone knows what these values should be, or has half (or even a full clue) as to whats going on all help appreciated.

[clubagreenie]

Does the actuator inside actually rotate?
Maybe give it a good clean with some throttle-body cleaner or similar.

If not, replace.

Gave it a spray and the original did free up extremely considerably. Made no difference to overall function.

Does anyone know if it's a servo, if so does it operate on PWM, Analogue Voltage Signal or other.

[clubagreenie]

So swapped the O2 sensors and now have the same two original codes. P0134 & P1000, with their respective description PLUS P0155 & P0135 which are O2 sensor heater faults.

Which says to me that MAYBE I have a wiring fault in the sensor signal circuit & the new O2 sensors have faulty heater circuits.

[ashhhhh]

I've got a Nanocom and a D2 V8, will get some numbers/stats for you later this arvo.

Dont rule out air leaks. I battled o2 related errors when I first got my car and it turned out to have a major air leak in the inlet manifold.
I heard it hissing and found that some idiot had left the upper to lower manifold gasket out! Also changed injector o-rings as they were perished.
It is not right that you have 0v on both o2 banks.

[ashhhhh]

In instrument mode:

Air Load - 0.00 (0.62)

Idle Air - 1.09 (101.03) ** Is your figure right? If so, it could indicate a bad air leak somewhere. Could also be a throttle problem, TPS perhaps. This could explain the whole issue **

Idle Load Air - 0.09 (0.00)

In Nanocom, Motronic, live data.

MAF Sensor - 20 (19)
Idle Air - 97 (103.03)
IACV Drive - 43 (39)
Idle Load Air - 0.15 (0.00)
Average Trim Bank A - 0.99 (1.00)
Average Trim Bank B - 0.99 (1.00)
Load Air - 0.00 (0.18)
Fuel Trim A - 1.00 (much the same, quick, slight fluctuations)
Fuel Trim B - 1.00 (as above)
Idle Trim A - 0.04 (0.01)
Idle Trim B -0.17 (0.01)
Multi Trim A - 1.00 (1.00)
Multi Trim B - 1.10 (1.00)
Secondary Air - Active (yes)
Adaptive Purge - 52.08 (64)
Leak Rate - 0.68 (0.14)
Loop - Open (closed)
Evap - Active (yes)

O2 Sensor A - 0.00 B 0.00 (A&B - Max is around 0.75, min around 0.15 - very fast fluctuations) ** This is not normal. Again, mine showed very low and odd figures when I had an air leak. Failing that, you are probably on the right track with wiring issue **

Shunt Voltage - 0.11 (same)
O2 Heater Resistance - Ready (yes)
Heater Status - on (yes)

Downstream O2 Sensor Shunt Voltage - 0.99/4.79 ***value alternates*** also nil downstream O2 sensors. (Same, as you say -no downstream sensor anyway)

Upstream O2 Sensor Shunt Voltage - 1.00/4.79 ***value alternates***
Upstream Lambda A output - 1.00/4.79
Upstream Lambda B output - ready (doesnt say ready, constant changes)
Heater Status - on/off (alternating)

So if anyone knows what these values should be, or has half (or even a full clue) as to whats going on all help appreciated.

My figures in brackets.
Hope this helps mate, let me know how it goes!

[clubagreenie]

Huge thanks for that.

Starting to think that the non starting issue is an independent event.

With the alarm faults, P01668 and random M&S lights flashing (unrelated to voltage as it's well and truly turning over). Playing with the alarm settings, turning off or on the immobiliser, alarm itself etc I can manage to get it going (eventually). I'm starting to think it's the BCU or immobiliser stopping the spark somewhere.

Does anyone know of what circumstances trigger the M&S lights apart from voltage? The WXYZ switch was new approx 12 months ago with the gearbox.

[ashhhhh]

No worries at all.

My money is on the TPS.
I have read of others experiencing M&S lights with faulty TPS, it also fits with some of your other symptoms. (very low idle air)

The Nanocom will read faults etc on the gearbox too, worth a check if you haven't already. :)

[clubagreenie]

Already swapped the TPS with the IACV.

Thinking now maybe the CKP (crank angle) sensor, as it's doing a classic CKP thing and starting cold/cooled down enough and not hot starting when it's had enough.

The IACV, can you look in yours and see what happens when powered up (unplug and ign on, plug in) the "valve" inside sort of "wobbles" but never really moves into a different position from off.

[ashhhhh]

Yeah mine just wobbles too, I doubt you would see it functioning properly unless it was in place and running. (and you had x-ray vision)

[clubagreenie]

Got a used but known CKP on the way so see what happens...

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Dont delay!:o
Those Crank Angle Sensors are a show stopper,,,:angel:

[Pedro_The_Swift]

No worries at all.

My money is on the TPS.
I have read of others experiencing M&S lights with faulty TPS, it also fits with some of your other symptoms. (very low idle air)

The Nanocom will read faults etc on the gearbox too, worth a check if you haven't already. :)

Its a great pity Armidale is so far away:angel:
What gearbox faults does it read ashhhh ?
sticky solinoids ?

[ashhhhh]

Its a great pity Armidale is so far away:angel:
What gearbox faults does it read ashhhh ?
sticky solinoids ?
Haha...
Ah the full range AFAIK, I just havent had any yet to test it! ;)

[clubagreenie]

It seems to have a cycle.

Trips into failure. Gets a P01668 code for alarm which seems to set off a can bus fault x 2 that appear under gearbox which is why it flashes the lights (turns out there are 18 documented events that can cause M&S lights. How many more unknown) Clear these and the alarm, then access the BCU (which shuts down the hazard lights and really upsets people when you're stopped first position in a turning lane, they pull up and then the hazards come back on) and disable the alarm and immobiliser. Try starting which will throw another alarm code since it sees the alarm but can't do anything with it. Then re-enble and it may start.

I don't know if it's the messing round and clearing faults or it take long enough to do that, that it cools down enough to make the CKP work again.

[clubagreenie]

Well there's your problem.




https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/02/1.jpg

I'd hazard to guess that the numpties that fitted the auto under insurance stuffed it. They said that the stack height of the flex plate and spacers was out, and when checked with Ashcroft there is a difference between the pump height on the 4HP24 V 22 so I had one of the spacers surface ground. I thought that they'd been conscientious and measured stuff but clearly they fitted it and it made a noise and decided it needed fixing. How it's worked and run to date (almost 2 years) is beyond me but it is a bosch part. If it was lucas...
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