Series 11 and 11a period correct features check list?

[mjbsx]

I'm 'series' shopping, II and IIa's.

Any chance anyone can point me to a checklist of original/period features?

aka what I should be looking out for to ensure cars I'm looking at haven't been too altered over the years.

Also, is there some kind of register somewhere to trace a car (aside from the checks on VIN etc you can run online - I've used those, pretty light on detail).

much appreciated.

m

[pop058]

If it is an ex-military Series, there is the "REMLR" forum and if it is a civy version, then there are several members on here that can assist you with that detail as well. They will be along shortly I am sure. :D

As far as an original Series is concerned, I seriously doubt that many are "all original"as lots of parts are interchangeable across variants and models. If you have a chassis number, that would be a good start.

[gromit]

Lots of info on the interweb Land Rover Series 2 Club (http://www.series2club.co.uk/pages/vehicles/members_history.php)

Enter chassis number here to get an idea of when it was made
Clifton Scientific Text Services, the Netherlands (http://www.clifton.nl/index.html?calvin.html)

Colin

[harry]

You are looking at a 40 plus year old car that is built like a meccano set,
Don't sweat too much about finding one with all numbers and original bits, these cars were used for all sorts of things.
An original one will be as rare as that stuff rocking horses can't do !
But welcome to our world

[harry]

And to what they had/ options
Just a few,
Various body styles, ute, van, two door, four door.
And more.
Winch, overdrive, soft top, hard top.
Really, it might be better if you can narrow down what you are interested in

[JDNSW]

As in the other posts - the Series 2/2a was produced over a period of about 14 years. During this time there were dozens of different body styles and models produced on two wheelbases, and the company followed a policy of continuous product improvement.

The only specific difference between the 2 and 2a was the introduction of the 2.25 diesel and the new chassis numbering system with suffixes. Petrol engined 88s built in 1958 (mostly) were fitted with the Series 1 2.0l engine. These are quite rare with this engine still installed and are becoming quite collectible.

In addition, the vehicles were built in several different places, from our perspective most importantly in Solihull and Sydney.

For most changes, these happened not at a specific chassis number, but when the stock of old parts ran out - and it would not be unusual for batches of parts to overlap, particularly if, for example comparing Sydney and Solihull manufacture.

Another factor was the change from BS to unified threads. This started with the introduction of the Series 2, but was still not complete at the end of Series production in the 1980s. In most cases the change is just listed in the parts book as "alternatives". And many original BS parts will have been replaced with Unified thread replacements. This will be particularly the case with bits that wear such as shackle pins. No metric threads were used anywhere on 2/2a Landrovers except for very late wheelstuds and nuts, but again, replacements may be. (Ignoring the fact that BA threads are actually metric!)

As local content increased, parts were likely to become different or to change at quite different dates.

Despite this, there are some significant changes that can be dated. Probably the most significant was the electrical system update between chassis number suffix 'C' and 'D'. This involved changing from positive to negative earth, and because it also involved changing from separate wiper motors to cable operation, it involved bulkhead changes. It also meant changes to fuel gauge and sender, instruments, switches etc.

Changes that did not come at specific chassis numbers or dates but can sometimes be listed as early or late include:-

Steering swivel spring loaded cones to railko bush - early
Steering swivel arms top to bottom - early
Vent screw to lever - early but not a 2/2a marker
Wheel nuts 9/16"BSF double sided to 9/16"BSF single sided but 27mm hex - late
Wheel studs 9/16"BSF to M16 - very late
Headlights in guards - nominally 1969, but did not change at the same time everywhere
Bonnet hinges 4 bolt to 3 bolt - late
Vent hinges bolted on to welded on hinges - fairly early 2a but not a 2/2a marker
Crankcase positive ventilation. Fitted to meet Australian rules mid sixties, but often removed.

Differences that have no useful date information include:-
Optional equipment - this includes blinkers, mirrors, trim, bonnet type, spare wheel carrier.

Tail and parking light changes
Headlight changes

Carburetter - Solex was replaced by Zenith but the change date is unclear, and many will have been changed both ways.

Hope this helps

John

[russellrovers]

I'm 'series' shopping, II and IIa's.

Any chance anyone can point me to a checklist of original/period features?

aka what I should be looking out for to ensure cars I'm looking at haven't been too altered over the years.

Also, is there some kind of register somewhere to trace a car (aside from the checks on VIN etc you can run online - I've used those, pretty light on detail).

much appreciated.

mthere a original s2 in just cars for sale its mine jim

[mjbsx]

Two more questions:

1. More often than not the civilian (non military) cars seem to come as hard tops. Anyone recommend any resources on converting them to soft top - engineering requirements (mechanics) etc.
So far, I've found some prices on a stick kit and canvas from a supplier in Ballarat (roverparts). But given the detail and passion I'm seeing here I'm guessing someone has 'crossed the bridge' and will be able to help...

2. Any recommendations on a mechanic familiar with the Series cars, in Melbourne, I'm close to bayside in the south east (Moorabbin area).

[S3ute]

Anyone recommend any resources on converting them to soft top - engineering requirements (mechanics) etc.


Hello from Brisbane.

Land Rovers of the vintage you are interested in are largely a mobile box of bolted on bits and pieces.

By and large, changing over from a hard top to a soft top requires little more that undoing a number of bolts in order to remove the hard top and then bolting back on a hood stick set and window frame assembly. Plus then fit and shrink the canvas tilt.

Depending on the vehicle - especially whether or not it was originally a soft or hard top - there may be a few other small fittings required for tying off the adjustment cords and straps at the sides and back.

Not a lot of Series 2 Land Rovers came with three point seat belts, but if it did then fixing the over shoulder strap in a way acceptable to the registration authorities can involve some thought.

New canvas tilts can be readily sourced locally or from the UK and are reasonably expensive - moreso with the exchange rate shifts over the last 12 or so months. Getting the hood sticks locally can be a bit of a challenge - there may still be some off Army wrecks. New kits are available from the UK at a cost and from a few local parts specialists as you noted.

Cheers,

[JDNSW]

Two more questions:

1. .......

2. Any recommendations on a mechanic familiar with the Series cars, in Melbourne, I'm close to bayside in the south east (Moorabbin area).

I would suggest Fred Smith in Wantirna. Bit far from you though.

You suggest that most civilian 2/2a Landrovers are hardtops. It is probable that in fact the majority of the 88s sold were soft top, although this changed by Series 3. Most 109s were probably hardtops or utes or trayback.

But with increasing use of Landrovers for recreation rather than rural work, the soft top became very unpopular, mainly for security reasons. Most survivors that started as softops have been converted to hardtops or utes for this reason, the exception probably being military ones, which were virtually all soft tops.

If the open air motoring is what you are after, and you get a hardtop, can I suggest that before spending a lot of money on converting it, you try driving for a while without door tops.

John

[dfendr]

As you are fairly close to me you are welcome to come and look at my Ex Arrmy 2a and i can point out what is origional and what isn't

[russellrovers]

Hello from Brisbane.

Land Rovers of the vintage you are interested in are largely a mobile box of bolted on bits and pieces.

By and large, changing over from a hard top to a soft top requires little more that undoing a number of bolts in order to remove the hard top and then bolting back on a hood stick set and window frame assembly. Plus then fit and shrink the canvas tilt.

Depending on the vehicle - especially whether or not it was originally a soft or hard top - there may be a few other small fittings required for tying off the adjustment cords and straps at the sides and back.

Not a lot of Series 2 Land Rovers came with three point seat belts, but if it did then fixing the over shoulder strap in a way acceptable to the registration authorities can involve some thought.

New canvas tilts can be readily sourced locally or from the UK and are reasonably expensive - moreso with the exchange rate shifts over the last 12 or so months. Getting the hood sticks locally can be a bit of a challenge - there may still be some off Army wrecks. New kits are available from the UK at a cost and from a few local parts specialists as you noted.

Cheers,singler bows available 145 dollors each jim s2 s2a

[Carzee]

Here's a typical S2a 88in photographed only a few decades into its working life. It was for sale about a year ago.

:)

[Carzee]

This is a hard working S2 88in with a hardtop.

[mjbsx]

Evening folks, an update - I managed to get one.
A 1960-ish (on record as 58, but Clifton Netherlands reckons 62) series 2a SWB is on a truck on Monday, making it's way from south of Sydney to my place. Fully restored, looks great. Bought it sight unseen, but lots of pics and video - fingers crossed.:D

[JDNSW]

Evening folks, an update - I managed to get one.
....

I hope you will give us news and pictures when it arrives. And keep us informed with how you go.

John