Brake bleeder

[Judo]

Looking to buy another assisted bleeder.

I purchased one of these for $40 delivered a while ago, but it's crap. It doesn't seem to create enough vacuum to draw the fluid through. Played around with air settings, but still no good. I'm thinking this one is cheap and crap?

AIR Brake Bleeder KIT Vacuum Pneumatic Clutch Hydraulic Bleeder Bleeding KIT SET | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Air-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-Vacuum-Pneumatic-Clutch-Hydraulic-Bleeder-Bleeding-kit-Set-/251358077336?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a861be198&_uhb=1)

I was considering trying another cheap option:

Hand Held Brake Bleeder Tester SET Bleed KIT Vacuum Pump CAR Motorbike Bleeding | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hand-Held-Brake-Bleeder-Tester-Set-Bleed-Kit-Vacuum-Pump-Car-Motorbike-Bleeding-/201134972390?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2ed4941de6)

Anyone tried this one?

Supercheap have one that looks similar, but WAY more expensive....

Toledo Brake Bleeder Pump Kit - Vacuum - 310012 - Supercheap Auto Australia (http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Toledo-Brake-Bleeder-Pump-Kit-Vacuum-310012.aspx?pid=SPO83838#Recommendations)

I realise the cheap ones might be a false economy, but sometimes they're fine, so asking to see if anyone else has gone through the motions...

Other recommendations welcome too.

[geodon]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-land-rovers/150744-el-cheapo-one-man-pressure-brake-bleeding-kit.html

You don't need the pumps. Your spare wheel is a good reservoir!

Another low cost alternative is a disposable 60ml syringe which you connect to the bleeder nipples & suck the fluid out.

When trying to firm up a pedal, I can't speak highly enough about a small vice grip gently but firmly applied to the flexible hoses.

If the pedal suddenly firms up where the clamp is then that's where to bleed.

[steveG]

I've got a genuine Airboy one. Cost me about $120 from Bursons a few years ago but I'm really happy with how it performs.
Looks similar to your $40 one.

Pretty sure I got it as I was struggling to get the clutch bled on the County, but have used it LOTS. It makes bleeding by yourself so easy that now I don't hesitate to just disconnect a caliper or hose for access and bleed afterwards. Previously I'd have gone about things the long way to avoid the bleeding issue.

Judo - you're welcome to borrow mine if you want to try it out.

Steve

[PhilipA]

have a Motive Products one which was expensive.
Of course you need an adaptor for a Disco2 which is different to all earlier LRs.
The adaptor is a Heath Robinson affair with a chain that goes under the Master cylinder , but it works well.

Regards Philip A

[Scouse]

2nd the Airboy bleeder.
We had one at work mainly for the LR clutches & I thought it worked so well that I bought my own. I've had it for over 20 years now & apart from a couple of hose changes due to age, it's been great.

[Judo]

Thanks all. I've just ordered an Air Boy. I have now successfully bought cheap, bought twice. :D

I'll report back after testing...

[Shingleback]

Fwiw I have a cheap one and was thinking it was crap too but I was just using it wrong. I thought that the air bubbles sucking through the clear tube were not good, but the air is just sucking through the nipple and hose connection.

Connect hose, pull trigger and hold, then open nipple, bleed for a bit, then shut off nipple before releasing trigger. Just ignore all the air bubbles you can see. Worked for me.

[D110V8D]

The best (and cheapest) way I have ever found is to get 4 lengths of clear tubing that will fit securely over the bleed nipples and also long enough to be taped to the side of the body ABOVE the height of the master cylinder.

Crack open all 4 bleed nipples and then add fluid to master cylinder as required.

The fluid in the tubes will never go higher than the master cylinder and when all four have reached that height tighten up the nipples and you should find you have a nice firm pedal.

This way does take a while but I have found it fool proof and cheap and easy.

[loanrangie]

The best (and cheapest) way I have ever found is to get 4 lengths of clear tubing that will fit securely over the bleed nipples and also long enough to be taped to the side of the body ABOVE the height of the master cylinder.

Crack open all 4 bleed nipples and then add fluid to master cylinder as required.

The fluid in the tubes will never go higher than the master cylinder and when all four have reached that height tighten up the nipples and you should find you have a nice firm pedal.

This way does take a while but I have found it fool proof and cheap and easy.

My method is similar except only one length of tube and a coffee jar at the end so only one wheel at a time.

[LandyAndy]

have a Motive Products one which was expensive.
Of course you need an adaptor for a Disco2 which is different to all earlier LRs.
The adaptor is a Heath Robinson affair with a chain that goes under the Master cylinder , but it works well.

Regards Philip A

Ever tried using a Nanocom to bleed the brakes on a D2???? They are brilliant!!!!
Andrew

[PhilipA]

I do both as I usually want to flush out all the old fluid.
Regards Philip A

[Graz]

I gave up on mine, kept drawing air via the threads of the bleed nipples and would not draw fluid from the master cylinder reservoir, got a helper (wife) and used the time honoured pedal pumping method.
Been thinking of making a pressure bleeder, was the only way of bleeding some of the aircraft types (mainly bug smashers) I used to swing tools on.
Done by pumping up from the bleeder.
Got plenty of 3 mm ally left over from building the back on the 130. Planning to do the same for the the gearbox and diffs etc.

[BathurstTom]

I had success with a Gunsons ezibleeder, just hook it up to a spare tyre (with maximum of about 15psi from memory) and go and do a wheel at a time.

gunsons ezibleed | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xgunsons+e zibleed.TRS0&_nkw=gunsons+ezibleed&_sacat=0)

Tom.

[crackers]

When converting my second MGB from LHD to RHD, I had to swap the brakes over as well, complete with new pipes. The bleeder I used had a one way valve on the end of a length of pipe (ball bearing and spring set up). You put that on the bleed nipple with the valve in a jar under some old brake fluid to guarantee no suck back of air, cracked the nipple then sat in the car and pumped the pedal. The only trick was making sure you didn't pump too often and suck air in through the master cyclinder (ie, pump five times, top up the reservoir, repeat). Simple but it worked a treat and I did the entire braking system from dry on my own. I've done similar with just a simple piece of tube but as sure as eggs, you'd get it right and the end of the pipe would come out of the jar.

However, none of that is going to stop me investigating more complex systems seeing my old bleeder died years ago (hmm, that sounds like I'm swearing doesn't it, rather appropriate when talking about brake repairs).

[Rick122]

My method is similar except only one length of tube and a coffee jar at the end so only one wheel at a time.

I have been doing my brake flushes like this for years now. I usually use mig wire or string to hang the bottle. As long as the bottle is higher than the caliper, all the air will get forced out when you pump and the fluid will stay in the line so you can see when the old fluid has been flushed through. I wrap thread tape on the bleed nipples first to prevent any air sucking past the threads. Not really necessary though. For peace if mind I also put a small block of wood under the brake pedal so i don't inadvertently push it down too far and stuff the master cylinder seals.

[crackers]

For peace if mind I also put a small block of wood under the brake pedal so i don't inadvertently push it down too far and stuff the master cylinder seals.

I didn't know about that one. What's the story?

[Rick122]

The usual travel of the master cylinder piston is only small. When bleeding, it is easy to push the piston past where it would normally sit in the bore and if there is any wear or corrosion present it can damage the seals. I usually suck out all the old fluid from the reservoir first and clean out any built up gunk too, otherwise it will just get drawn into the master with the new fluid.

[crackers]

Thanks for that mate. One of the problems with learning from your old man is you usually learn his bad habits as well though in his defence, we did a lot of stuff that technically we shouldn't have been able too.

[Rick122]

I've seen it happen three or four times, on two cars the fluid hadn't been changed for a long time and the master cylinders were probably due for a rebuild anyway. Another was a Toyota towmotor routine brake flush and the guy pushing the pedal was nearly putting his foot through the floor pumping it. They went through 3 bottles of brake fluid. The pedal wouldn't hold pressure and on the test drive it was dangerous. Pulled the master cylinder apart and the seals had inverted and were stuffed. It was leading internally.

[crackers]

Scary stuff. Brakes are so stupidly simple and so easy to screw up. I once spent a couple of hours trying to get a Ford Escort's brakes behave and only sort of succeeded (the owner didn't want to spend any money, always a first mistake). I think part of the trick is knowing when to give components to a professional (eg, honing and sleeving a master cylinder) and being patient assembling and bleeding the brutes. Clutches can be as bad as I learned when changing a clutch line on an MGB and then spending two hours bleeding the rotten thing. When things are going right, it's simple, when things aren't ... well ... you need a generous supply of swear words.

[Rick122]

I think the easiest way to bleed a clutch is to drain the whole lot then use a syringe to push the fluid up to the master as it's the highest point.

[crackers]

I think the easiest way to bleed a clutch is to drain the whole lot then use a syringe to push the fluid up to the master as it's the highest point.

You're probably right Rick. I didn't know it when I last suffered one. To be honest, it wouldn't have occurred to me now but that's a reflection on my experience, not your knowledge. You do realise that I'll be referring to you when it comes to getting Wombat's clutch behave nicely :twisted:

[Rick122]

Can also do the clutch the same as the brake, just get the bottle above the height of the slave, so hold it up somewhere in the engine bay.