Various TD5 logged fault codes..... need more help please.

[Disco Driver]

Here is the rundown.

I have a few logged fault codes since doing some significant work and repairs.

I have replaced injector wiring loom (ALLMAKES), engine wiring loom (BRITPARTS), alternator and starter motor, ECU to a NNN with a stage 2 TD5INSIDE remap.

An Exedy single mass flywheel with heavy duty clutch kit was installed and I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor (INTERMOTOR).

Fault 1: (3,7) AIR FLOW CIRCUIT, (LOGGED HIGH)

Only thing I have done over the years is to occasionally remove airflow sensor and gently clean with electrical cleaner.


Fault 2: (15,2) HIGH SPEED CRANK, (LOGGED)


Fault 3: (19,6) NOISY CRANK SIGNAL HAS BEEN DETECTED, (LOGGED)

I was going to put the original genuine crank shaft position sensor back to see if this is eliminated this fault code.


Fault 4: (20,4) EGR VALVE STUCK OPEN, (LOGGED)

This code has been recurring since blocking EGR off, even before the remap.


Fault 5: (27,1) INJECTOR 1 PEAK CHARGE LONG, (LOGGED)


This code has only come on once.


Upon heavy acceleration, as an example changing gears up hill, the engine will shutdown around 3750 - 4000 rpm where I will then need to switch ignition off and restart engine. Fault codes 2 and 3 are then typically present.
I am pulling a 2.5 tonne camper trailer nearly all the time.
I am currently investigating changing out to new Alisport manifold, VNT turbo, high performance intercooler plus installing 3" exhaust system. Yes this will cost a fair bit however we are travelling around Australia and so I want things to work well without fault codes!

Hopefully you guys have more experience then what I have! However I am catching up... ha ha

[strangy]

Here is the rundown. I have a few logged fault codes since doing some significant work and repairs. I have replaced injector wiring loom (ALLMAKES), engine wiring loom (BRITPARTS), alternator and starter motor, ECU to a NNN with a stage 2 TD5INSIDE remap. An Exedy single mass flywheel with heavy duty clutch kit was installed and I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor (INTERMOTOR). Fault 1: (3,7) AIR FLOW CIRCUIT, (LOGGED HIGH) Only thing I have done over the years is to occasionally remove airflow sensor and gently clean with electrical cleaner. Fault 2: (15,2) HIGH SPEED CRANK, (LOGGED) Fault 3: (19,6) NOISY CRANK SIGNAL HAS BEEN DETECTED, (LOGGED) I was going to put the original genuine crank shaft position sensor back to see if this is eliminated this fault code. Fault 4: (20,4) EGR VALVE STUCK OPEN, (LOGGED) This code has been recurring since blocking EGR off. Fault 5: (27,1) INJECTOR 1 PEAK CHARGE LONG, (LOGGED) Upon heavy acceleration, as an example changing gears up hill, the engine will shutdown around 3750 - 4000 rpm where I will then need to switch ignition off and restart engine. Fault codes 4 and 5 typically are present. I am pulling a 2.5 tonne camper trailer nearly all the time. I am currently investigating changing out to new Alisport manifold, VNT turbo, high performance intercooler plus installing 3" exhaust system. Yes this will cost a fair bit however we are travelling around Australia and so I want things to work well without fault codes! Hopefully you guys have more experience then what I have! However I am catching up... ha ha
Fault 1 is either a sensor, chafed wiring or the plug has been disconnected while the engine was running.
Fault 2 and 3 are either the sensor, wiring damage or the solid flywheel.
Fault 5 is because it is physically disconnected and probably also associated with the remap.
The injector fault is either an injector or siting problem.

You rbig exhaust, intercooler etc won't make your fault codes go away and won't have any bearing on your displayed fault codes recurring.

Time to do some reading on your fault codes ( there are dozens of posts here) and trace back the work you have done and ensure things have been correctly refitted and or repaired as required before you start playing with other mods.

[Disco Driver]

Thanks Strangly,


I'll do more researching on the fault codes now that I'm back on a PC and not on the phone.


With the airflow meter, if it was faulty, would it always show a fault? I can clear the fault and it will be cleared for a while then come back up.


With the solid flywheel, I did compare it to the original to ensure all drill holes were there and in their correct places. However, I never went as far as measuring them all for their accuracy.


Naturally I understand any other modification won't fix or prevent these code coming up again, that was a bit of useless info that I probably shouldn't have put in there!


cheers,

[CU55TM Disco]

Thanks Strangly,


I'll do more researching on the fault codes now that I'm back on a PC and not on the phone.


With the airflow meter, if it was faulty, would it always show a fault? I can clear the fault and it will be cleared for a while then come back up.


With the solid flywheel, I did compare it to the original to ensure all drill holes were there and in their correct places. However, I never went as far as measuring them all for their accuracy.


Naturally I understand any other modification won't fix or prevent these code coming up again, that was a bit of useless info that I probably shouldn't have put in there!


cheers,
Ive been running around for a month now with my air flow meter unplugged, and havnt logged a code yet. (2003 D2a Auto)

Unplug it and go for a spin. if it goes better with it unplugged, theres a chance ur afm might be toast.

Ive also fitted the EGR blank kit, and havnt had a fault logged for that either.

[Tombie]

Amazed people go single mass - great way to ruin the gearbox...

[Disco Driver]

Amazed people go single mass - great way to ruin the gearbox...



Well I can tell you Tombie, single mass have been around for a hell of a lot longer than dual mass.... and getting high miles out of the gearbox and with-out ruining it. Granted, modern small diesels produce significantly higher power and torque curves (1300 rpm upwards) than the early ones.....but not the TD5! (unless highly modified).


I understand (and agree) with the theories of DMF and they are most likely the perfect solution for reducing engine/drivetrain vibrations/pulses at idle and/or lightly loaded......WHEN THEY ARE NEW OR LOW KM's.


The following are strictly my observations (and my better half's) since installing the SMF.
1) Very minimal additional transmission 'chatter' over and above the old DMF. Hot or cold, inside or outside, you are hard pressed to audibly hear any difference between DMF or the new SMF.
2) Engine is idling as smoothly as it was before the replacement.
3) The SMF has dramatically IMPROVED the engagement of the clutch. Classic example of our local supermarket car park is on a reasonable gradient. DMF engagement very typically resulted in stalling the TD5 unless you stuck the right boot into it! NOW both my wife and I don't stall the vehicle and the clutch engages smoothly and evenly.
4) Down side of a heavy clutch pedal due to the HD pressure plate.
5) Only just changed the oil in gearbox, draining old oil into clean, white container. No metallic or swirl was observed in the oil.


Both in my workshop and friendly oppositions', we're replace many local mining companies Patrol and Navara DMF's with SM and with-out any associated problems.

I guess time will tell, however I believe I'll get a long life out of this set-up as the majority of the time it is working hard pulling out 2.5 tonne camper plus a highly loaded Disco. We're a family of 5 travelling around Australia (mostly off the blacktop) and have a lot of stuff with us! Thus far we've only travelled around 20,000 since the modifications with no significant problems. I'm only trying to sort out the OP fault codes of which I will!


In summary, the majority of TD5 owners are probably only towing on occasion (if at all), driving lightly loaded around town or waiting at traffic lights/supermarket with a/c running. If this was me, I'd be running a DMF too.

[sierrafery]

I'll tell you only what i know for sure:

1. that high air flow fault code is often thrown by the stage 2 remap as the suction is too hard under hard throttle and the air flow reading goes above 650kg/h when the ECM cuts fueling similar like on overboost, you need a live data session with tester to see if it's so before you spend on new sensor but if you want to replace the sensor anyway there is one which can handle better this problem: BMW Mass Air Flow Meter Sensor 5WK9605 5WK9608 5WK96050Z 13621432356 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Mass-Air-Flow-Meter-Sensor-5WK9605-5WK9608-5WK96050Z-13621432356-/251174166371?afsrc=1&rmvSB=true) , (tested it on my own car and friend's auto and it makes a difference), it's perfect fit but it has a wider reading curve though it might not override the cut-off at much higher air flows, the perfect cure for this issue would be an addapted remap to handle the greater air flow reading but if you dont want that you need a voltage clamp on the MAF input to ECM, similar like the boost box to not let the reading exceed 650 even if it's higher... not the best way exactly like boost boxes but it's working(i dont recommend this way even though it works)

2. for the high speed crank signal first use genuine sensor and if it still comes on put genuine shim under the sensor to see if it helps

3. the noisy crank signal might be generated by the starter motor, if it has worn solenoid contacts or brushes or some internal short which doesnt stop it work it will create inerference with the crank signal...also make sure that the crank sensor wiring's shield is well earthed(measure resistance against ground)

about the solid flywheel i'm not gonna comment just that i'm completely against it:cool:

[Disco Driver]

I'll tell you only what i know for sure:

1. that high air flow fault code is often thrown by the stage 2 remap as the suction is too hard under hard throttle and the air flow reading goes above 650kg/h when the ECM cuts fueling similar like on overboost, you need a live data session with tester to see if it's so before you spend on new sensor but if you want to replace the sensor anyway there is one which can handle better this problem: BMW Mass Air Flow Meter Sensor 5WK9605 5WK9608 5WK96050Z 13621432356 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Mass-Air-Flow-Meter-Sensor-5WK9605-5WK9608-5WK96050Z-13621432356-/251174166371?afsrc=1&rmvSB=true) , (tested it on my own car and friend's auto and it makes a difference), it's perfect fit but it has a wider reading curve though it might not override the cut-off at much higher air flows, the perfect cure for this issue would be an addapted remap to handle the greater air flow reading but if you dont want that you need a voltage clamp on the MAF input to ECM, similar like the boost box to not let the reading exceed 650 even if it's higher... not the best way exactly like boost boxes but it's working(i dont recommend this way even though it works)

2. for the high speed crank signal first use genuine sensor and if it still comes on put genuine shim under the sensor to see if it helps

3. the noisy crank signal might be generated by the starter motor, if it has worn solenoid contacts or brushes or some internal short which doesnt stop it work it will create inerference with the crank signal...also make sure that the crank sensor wiring's shield is well earthed(measure resistance against ground)

about the flywheel i'm not gonna comment just that i'm completely against it:cool:



Good on you sierrafery, appreciate your feedback. Thank you too for the link.

I will be dedicating some time to these faults over the next week so will certainly update as I come across my solutions.

The only thing I have to query is with the 'noisy crank signal'. Initially I wondered about the starter but then came to the conclusion it was actually referring to the Crankshaft Speed and Position Sensor (CKP). The starter is new (NON-Genuine) and I will check the CKP sensor earth shield too.

I'm going to have a in-depth read of RAVE...


Cheers,

[Disco Driver]

You know, RAVE certainly has a wealth of info in it. I quote from RAVE...


"The MAF sensor is located in the intake system between the air filter housing and the turbocharger. The ECM uses the information generated by the MAF to control exhaust gas recirculation (EGR)."


So....the only use of the MAF by the ECM is to control the EGR. If the EGR is no longer in the system, why can't we just eliminate the MAF, remove it from the system (or leave it disconnected) as it has no other fuelling/boost level inputs like I had previously believed??


The Ambient Air Temperature and Pressure Sensor (AAP)


"The ECM uses the signal from the AAP sensor for the following functions:"

To maintain manifold boost pressure.
To reduce exhaust smoke emissions while driving at high altitude.
Control of the EGR system.
The sensor also supplies a voltage between 0v and 5v proportional to ambient temperature. The ECM uses this signal for the following functions:

Exhaust gas over temperature protection.
Turbocharger overspeed protection.


So this sensor has a far more important roll than the MAF.

Am I barking up the wrong tree?!? Your thoughts please!


Yours in re-searching!https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/13.jpg

[sierrafery]

About the MAF i've has the same thoughts but realised it's not 100% like in RAVE, i'm not gonna open again pandora's box, see this if you have enough patience http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/201719-how-completely-get-rid-maf-de-egrd-td5.html

[Disco Driver]

About the MAF i've has the same thoughts but realised it's not 100% like in RAVE, i'm not gonna open again pandora's box, see this if you have enough patience http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/201719-how-completely-get-rid-maf-de-egrd-td5.html



Oh ****! There's a lot of reading! Damn you! hahaha:p

[Disco Driver]

About the MAF i've has the same thoughts but realised it's not 100% like in RAVE, i'm not gonna open again pandora's box, see this if you have enough patience http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/201719-how-completely-get-rid-maf-de-egrd-td5.html





What can I say?! Wow what an interesting read. Took me the best part of 3 hours and I can honestly say that even though it made me really think, I'm still none the wiser!:D


Thanks for your input.

[PhilipA]

I had the "high values" on my MAF and the MaF signal would be outside what was expected and be shown as 0 on the nanocom.

Effect was the engine would drop out at about 3800RPM on full accelerator.
New MAF fixed it.
Mine is stock EU3auto.
Regards Philip A

[CU55TM Disco]

Had u thought of adding some additional shield to the crank sensor wiring? Maybe wrapping some aluminum tape or similar around it??

[Disco Driver]

AN UPDATE:

So I dedicated some time; pulling covers off, getting multimeter out and checking things over. All of engine wiring loom that I installed was perfectly supported and protected so unless there's an internal problem (of which I've learnt to expect anything :o) all looked good. No oil leaks from inj loom.:BigThumb:


What I did:

I measured the CKP sensor loom earth-shield of which it measured approximately 9 ohms - higher than what I would have expected considering they use a multi-strand 2mm wire plus a foil wrap as the earth sheild.


Resistance check between battery negative and body = 5 ohms; TOO HIGH so cleaned all body earths behind battery compartment (includes ECU earth), and main chassis earth on front of shocker tower and engine block. Re-check found 0.2 ohms to body earth and 0.5 on block. Good! Plug end of CKP loom shield measured 4 ohms which considering this is measuring from bat -'ve through ECU then to end of loom, that is fine, wme (with my experience).


Clear all fault codes, restart vehicle and put it through it's paces only for the TD5 to die underload, accelerating up and beyond 4000.:angry: The original fault codes (high MAF, high speed crank (logged and current), noisy crank signal and EGR) were present. I repeated the test three times - all same codes appear after clearing them.


NEXT: I replaced the Intermotor branded CKP with the old genuine unit that I saved. Road test to find it runs beautifully and it accelerated under load all the way up to 4500rpm with-out a hitch! Didn't want to take it any further. Repeat three times and NO FAULT CODES were stored!:clap2:


So it appears with further driving all is well! The AllMakes supplied Intermotor CKP sensor is DODGY!!! ....and it throws up other fault codes (MAF) too.:confused:


Which brings me to another thread that I will start...LOW QUALITY ALLMAKES PARTS. I've had multiple examples of this - but this is for another day.


Roll on the VNT and associated upgrades! (gotta keep the Global economy going!haha)


Good day to you fellow AULRO's!


Regards, Jayden

[kelvo]

Interesting, glad you're sorted now.

I've replaced my CKP with an Intermotor one, my factory original was logging a high speed crank error and bringing the MIL light on. I fitted the new Intermotor one with a spacer, even though the original didn't have one, and it's been working fine for over 10,000km.

I'm hoping yours was just a one off faulty one :angel:

[sierrafery]

Well done with that earth resistance measurements and cleaning:thumbsup:... i've got some time ago a wheel speed sensor from Allmakes and it was "made in china" on the label:mad:, as about CKP sensors i was convinced that only genuine is the 100% safe way to go cos i've seen many cases when aftermarket ones made tricks.

[Disco Driver]

Interesting, glad you're sorted now.

I've replaced my CKP with an Intermotor one, my factory original was logging a high speed crank error and bringing the MIL light on. I fitted the new Intermotor one with a spacer, even though the original didn't have one, and it's been working fine for over 10,000km.

I'm hoping yours was just a one off faulty one :angel:


Hi Kelvo,
I've done around 20,000km on this sensor and other than those faults coming up (particularly with the high revs) it ran okay...so I thought. Interestingly, as soon as I started and drove with the genuine CKP in, it certainly appeared to be more responsive, immediately from idle where-as the old sensor seemed to be more of a delay, as if the ECU had to think about it. Now maybe it is a figure of my imagination, of which case I don't mind......if I could be bothered I'd actually refit the Intermotor just to try it.


Next comparison will be on the fuel economy, as it was shocking at 16.5 ltrs/100 kms !!!:censored: Okay the full picture shows me pulling the loaded disco/camper in 40 degree heat with full A/C on sitting in 4th @ 90kph with roofrack etc....


My MAF is also due for replacement, even though no current codes, it shows max figures of 360 Kg/hr at full noise (load and revs). Disconnect it and I comes up with a 'low MAF' or something of that nature.


My 'failed' CKP will be kept for the contingency plan!


Cheers!

[Disco Driver]

Well done with that earth resistance measurements and cleaning:thumbsup:... i've got some time ago a wheel speed sensor from Allmakes and it was "made in china" on the label:mad:, as about CKP sensors i was convinced that only genuine is the 100% safe way to go cos i've seen many cases when aftermarket ones made tricks.



Thanks Sierrafery, I enjoy getting to bottom of things, something that I believe you do too!


Allmakes wheel hub assemblies.....I replaced ALL my hub/bearing assemblies and I have two 'problems'. Not only have ALL the boots on the sensors cracked/split (in as little as three months), but after a $400 AUD speeding fine :wasntme: did I remove the sensors and count the reluctor segments. Old genuine had 60 'teeth' and the Allmakes had 55 'teeth'. That represents nearly a 10% difference IE: @ 110 kph speedometer reading, ground speed is actually 120 kph! I'm not happy and my next post will come out with full description of ALL my failed/leaking/perished products I've bought.


I'm waiting upon a certain UK on-line store to respond....


All the best.


Jayden

[td5inside]

Allfakes, ****part, etc etc AVOID

Buy genuine...always!