Loose Steering and Top Cruising Speed

[BushBandit]

Hello,

Just wondering if I could get some opinions on some questions I have.

I've recently picked up an FFR in great nick with 10,000 log booked KM's on it. 100% stock standard except for key installation. So no power steering, turbos or any of the other great gear people are putting in theirs.

Now my question is I've noticed a bit of floaty steering in my perentie especially at 75km/h and upwards. It has a bit of a loose area where you turn the wheel and nothing happens even at slow speeds, in other words it isn't nice and tight. I'm wondering if this is normal of if mine needs adjusting as I've never driven one before I have nothing to compare it to... I'm not massively worried about this, I understand it's an old truck but if I can improve it, I'd like to. If this is normal would power steering, some proper tyres ect improve this?

My second question is what's a safe top cruising speed for long distance driving safe as in kind to the old girl. I understand these vehicles where probably designed to do a max speed and travel in convoy. I do 5 to 10 hour or 500km to 800km freeway drives most weekends. At the moment I just sit on between 75-80km/h and it purrs away. If I take it up to 90 it's revving a bit but doesn't feel like it's revving it's guts out. Would it be ok to sit on 90km/h for long periods of time? What do other people sit on, on long trips? Thanks in advance. Cheers.

[JDNSW]

Steering should have virtually no free play. Get someone to wiggle the wheel while you look where the free play is. Most likely one (or more) of the tie rod ends, or the bushes on each end of the panhard rod.

Maximum comfortable cruising speed, as far as safety goes is as fast as it will go in normal circumstances. I have a civilian 110 with the N/A Isuzu (which is mechanically almost identical), and my normal cruising speed is 100kph. It has now done 580,000km with no internal work on the engine, and still uses no oil.

In the soft top perentie, speed will probably be somewhat limited by the noise level mainly from wind. You need to remember that this is a truck engine, not a car engine, and it is designed to operate at full throttle, maximum governed rpm all day.

John

[4x4 MORE]

Steering should have virtually no free play. Get someone to wiggle the wheel while you look where the free play is. Most likely one (or more) of the tie rod ends, or the bushes on each end of the panhard rod.

Maximum comfortable cruising speed, as far as safety goes is as fast as it will go in normal circumstances. I have a civilian 110 with the N/A Isuzu (which is mechanically almost identical), and my normal cruising speed is 100kph. It has now done 580,000km with no internal work on the engine, and still uses no oil.

In the soft top perentie, speed will probably be somewhat limited by the noise level mainly from wind. You need to remember that this is a truck engine, not a car engine, and it is designed to operate at full throttle, maximum governed rpm all day.

John

??:confused:

[Dervish]

I sit at 100-105 km/h in mine, from memory that is around 2600 rpm. Maximum governed rpm is 3200 or thereabouts, so there is headroom even at that speed.

[Barefoot Dave]

Bushbandit, as above.
You also want to take particular attention to the Steering shaft join just below and forward of the brake booster.

4x4xmore, go back and read your Buyers guide again; the bit about what size vehicles the Isuzu donks were designed for. ;)

[JDNSW]

I probably should add that while travelling at 100+kph will not damage the vehicle, it will certainly up your fuel consumption compared to 80-90kph, but this has nothing to do with the engine - merely the inescapable fact that it has a large frontal area and high drag coefficient. (not totally inescapable - take the top off, door tops off, and fold the windscreen would probably see a significant improvement in both economy and performance)

If travelling at the higher speed you also need to ensure that you have suitable tyres.

John

[4x4 MORE]

Bushbandit, as above.
You also want to take particular attention to the Steering shaft join just below and forward of the brake booster.

4x4xmore, go back and read your Buyers guide again; the bit about what size vehicles the Isuzu donks were designed for. ;)

No I mean what does governed mean? Like a fuel cut out?:confused:

[BushBandit]

Absolute champs, thanks heaps for the fast replies fellas. Ill jump under there tomorrow, have a look and try and get the steering sorted.

At least now I'll be able to keep up with the b-doubles, it was getting a bit lonely back there and maybe a bit embarrassing being passed by mum and pop in their Nissan x-trail towing an 18ft caravan...

Cheers John yeah I'm not looking to win any races, any improvement on 80km/h is fine by me. I'll just drive at what feels comfy...

Also what's this buyers guide you speak of Barefoot Dave? I'm looking for any documentation I can find just to learn a bit more about the old girl, especially manuals, workshop would be a lifesaver if anyone knows of anything? Also chasing a defender truck cab... Cheers again.

[BadCo.]

I'll let Dave cover the buyers guide, as for manuals, try below.

https://www.davesitshop.com/emporium/index.php?_a=product&product_id=5

Also head over to remlr.com, lots of info there too including the RPS documents and another forum with a Perentie specific section.

[JDNSW]

No I mean what does governed mean? Like a fuel cut out?:confused:

Like all diesel engines the Isuzu has a governor that limits maximum rpm. It is not a fuel cutout, but simply limits maximum fuelling to the amount needed to maintain governed rpm. You probably will not be able to reach this rpm in top gear, at least on the level, but it will limit top speed in third (or lower gears).

[The Beast]

i tend to cruise at 90-95 or so, (that's indicated. its worth checking your speedo's accuracy). mine will happily go out to 110, and get there quite easily from 90 or so, but as well as what JDNSW said about noise and fuel burn, at that speed my confidence in the vehicle's road holding and ability to swerve or rapidly reduce speed if needed quickly falls away. also worth remembering that at 110 you're probably not going to be able to accelerate quickly from there either, eg if you had to floor it during an overtaking move. its a 20 something year old truck, not a sports car!

[LandroverScott]

In simple terms these are 4-6t truck motors in a Land Rover will do b/w 500k and 1mk

You know what they say " drive it like it's stolen" and you still won't hurt it.

Regards

[JDNSW]

.....
Also what's this buyers guide you speak of Barefoot Dave? ....... Cheers again.

Dave has put a lot of effort in compiling a buyers guide to Perenties - everything you want to know before buying, but probably also a lot that you want to know after buying. He is selling them.

John

[Northy]

I've found about 90km/h to be the sweet spot for fuel economy. I get about 10km/L at that speed. Its seems going from 235/85 ' s to 33x12.5's to make no real difference to economy

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[rar110]

Mine will sit on 100-110km all day. However, 90km is much quieter and more economical.

I agree 100% with John. Look all the suspension bushes and tie rod ends for movement. Finally check if there is any movement in the spline at the bottom of the steering box at the pitman arm or steering drop arm. The nut holding the pitman arm to the steering box might also be loose.

The perentie steering will never be as precise as rack & pinion steering. However it's quite ok if maintained.

[BushBandit]

Just an update fellas. Got the steering sorted over the last day and a half was a combination of a few things mentioned here, looked to be mainly the tie rod ends though. Thanks again made it a lot easier knowing exactly where to look.

Also took the radiator out and did all the cooling system while we where playing around. Looks to be in surprisingly good condition but I think it's brand new. Still had the tags on it.

Going to buy the manuals tonight fellas, so thanks for pointing me in the right direction there.

Also picked up one of the stronger looking perentie winch bull bars of a bloke in the hills. So will be chucking that on, not that there was anything wrong with the coat hanger that's on it just prefer the look and looks a bit stronger.

Cheers,

[4x4 MORE]

Yeah that Buyers Guide that Dave has written is the best Manual/Guide/History lesson that you WILL ever read!!!

Yeah the army Perentie's came with a few different bullbars...

[LandroverScott]

Just an update fellas. Got the steering sorted over the last day and a half was a combination of a few things mentioned here, looked to be mainly the tie rod ends though. Thanks again made it a lot easier knowing exactly where to look.

Also took the radiator out and did all the cooling system while we where playing around. Looks to be in surprisingly good condition but I think it's brand new. Still had the tags on it.

Going to buy the manuals tonight fellas, so thanks for pointing me in the right direction there.

Also picked up one of the stronger looking perentie winch bull bars of a bloke in the hills. So will be chucking that on, not that there was anything wrong with the coat hanger that's on it just prefer the look and looks a bit stronger.

Cheers,

Hi

Sounds like you bought the ARB upgrade brush bar and technically not a winch bar as ALL bars come with the gap in the middle for the winch or blanking plate

Enjoy!

[BadCo.]

Hi

Sounds like you bought the ARB upgrade brush bar and technically not a winch bar as ALL bars come with the gap in the middle for the winch or blanking plate

Enjoy!

Are you saying that the ARB style bar can't take a winch? Or are you just nit picking terminology Scott :P

[LandroverScott]

Are you saying that the ARB style bar can't take a winch? Or are you just nit picking terminology Scott :P

The other way to look at it is all perentie brush bars are winch bars. The winch is actually bolted to the chassis through the same holes as the inner ones for the bar

Cheers

[4x4 MORE]

Hi

Sounds like you bought the ARB upgrade brush bar and technically not a winch bar as ALL bars come with the gap in the middle for the winch or blanking plate

Enjoy!

Did the army make a special Bullbar for the Army 110's mate???

[LandroverScott]

Did the army make a special Bullbar for the Army 110's mate???

Yes because the front chassis rails are different than covy ones. Then they upgraded the original bar