Waterproofing Discovery 4

[robertgodino]

Hi all, this is my very first post!
I'm heading up the Old Telegraph Track in July and after seeing some of the creek crossing videos, I'm wondering if I need to do anything to waterproof any known gaps or holes in the Discovery 4? I've added a snorkel but absolutely want to avoid electrical system failure. Could this be a problem? I don't want to kill my 4WD! Is raising the suspension 5cm a possibility? I know I could do the bypass roads but that won't be any fun. Regards Robert

[Drizzle]

Welcome!!

I'll be watching this thread with interest as we're also planning a trip up to Cape York in July. See you there! 😀

Planning fitting a snorkel soon too.

Some info here about waterproofing the exposed electrical systems: DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - D3 Electrics and Water...solutions? (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic13315.html)

Gordon (gghaggis) from GOE also recommends using LPS-2 for protecting electrical connectors that might be at risk from water contamination. It's listed in his GOE Offroad Companion Booklet that you might consider a worthwhile investment: Green Oval Experience Land Rover training, Range Rover modifcation (http://www.greenovalexperience.com/#!goe-offroad-booklet/c1okv)

Also check out his EAS rods for suspension lift: Green Oval Experience Land Rover training, Range Rover modifcation (http://www.greenovalexperience.com/#!eas/cl9p)

Llams is another option for suspension lift: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/114282-llams-electronic-height-controller-d3-d4-rrs.html

[Tombie]

Welcome...

A radiator Blind (tarp for the front of the vehicle) is a great investment.

[BobD]

The biggest risk is stopping in Nolans or something similar, which will start to let water into the car and wet things like the amplifier under the drivers seat. The second biggest risk would be getting water on the transfer case module under the bonnet, which will kill it and not be good for you.


Have a look at the Misadventure video of the guys going through Nolans. The D4 had no problem but I didn't risk it in mine and went the long way round. Not worth stuffing up your car in such a remote place.


We only did the first half and then did the chicken track to the Development Road so that we missed out on quite a few of the iconic crossings. I didn't feel cheated or anything!


I unexpectedly had water over my bonnet for a short time on one crossing. I was worried about the transfer case module and stopped to have a look. Everything under the bonnet was dry. It didn't even look like I had been near water. This is due to the bonnet seals which create an air pocket for quick dunkings. I assume the air would leak out during a more sustained crossing. I am used to my GQ Patrol which would be soaked in every part of the under bonnet area.

[LRD414]

I have been reading in Gordon's book, on Disco3 and in here about protecting the more vulnerable connectors and ECUs as part of a "waterproofing" strategy. A few products get mentioned, eg LPS-2 and they all are basically spray-on products.

My question is about application of these products, having never used one. Is it as simple as spraying all over the item from outside?

Do you need to target particular areas, like the interface between the two halves of a connector or exposed wires coming out of a connector, etc?

Is there any risks to items from getting carried away with the spray?

Presumably there is no reason to open a connector if there's no actual problem, ie only use contact cleaner if you have a problem or fault active and obviously take contact cleaner with you.

I don't want to create a problem by doing a preventative measure (conformal spray) in the wrong manner.

Thanks for any advice or experiences with these products.

Cheers,
Scott

[Redback]

I have been reading in Gordon's book, on Disco3 and in here about protecting the more vulnerable connectors and ECUs as part of a "waterproofing" strategy. A few products get mentioned, eg LPS-2 and they all are basically spray-on products.

My question is about application of these products, having never used one. Is it as simple as spraying all over the item from outside?

Do you need to target particular areas, like the interface between the two halves of a connector or exposed wires coming out of a connector, etc?

Is there any risks to items from getting carried away with the spray?

Presumably there is no reason to open a connector if there's no actual problem, ie only use contact cleaner if you have a problem or fault active and obviously take contact cleaner with you.

I don't want to create a problem by doing a preventative measure (conformal spray) in the wrong manner.

Thanks for any advice or experiences with these products.

Cheers,
Scott

The main ECU to protect is the trans ECU, it's on the drivers side under the bonnet, rear back corner standing upright in a black box opposite the horn and of coarse the main ECU, behind the battery, get these wet and it's the end, but if you're in water that deep, you'll have more to worry about than just the ECUs.

The D3/D4 is suppose to be sealed that well, that you have up to 30 minutes before it will start letting water in, whether that's true or not, I don't know, so as long as the water isn't bonnet height, things like the ECUs should be fine.
Having looked over our D4, my biggest concern for letting water in would be via the spare wheel winch hole, that's a big hole and only covered by a very loose fitting seal.

Baz.

[jon3950]

my biggest concern for letting water in would be via the spare wheel winch hole, that's a big hole and only covered by a very loose fitting seal.

That's a good point Baz. I can tell you through bitter experience that it is possible to fill the underfloor area in the rear and all the footwells up to the door seals without causing any problems though.

Cheers,
Jon

[LRD414]

That's a good point Baz. I can tell you through bitter experience that it is possible to fill the underfloor area in the rear and all the footwells up to the door seals without causing any problems though.

Cheers,
Jon

But I guess you'd have to be stopped or a long time in reasonably deep water for it to come up through the spare wheel winder.:confused:

I've wondered about that hole myself, but for dust ingress, which you can stop by packing around the winder. I have an extension socket due to the rear drawers. I hadn't thought water.

Anyway, for the electrical connectors etc, I was more thinking any connectors that are lower down (e.g. compressor ones?) for the conformal spray protection. I agree that if you find yourself in bonnet deep water, you've likely got bigger problems:o Is spraying a bit over the top then?

Cheers,
Scott

[Redback]

That's a good point Baz. I can tell you through bitter experience that it is possible to fill the underfloor area in the rear and all the footwells up to the door seals without causing any problems though.

Cheers,
Jon


But I guess you'd have to be stopped or a long time in reasonably deep water for it to come up through the spare wheel winder.:confused:

I've wondered about that hole myself, but for dust ingress, which you can stop by packing around the winder. I have an extension socket due to the rear drawers. I hadn't thought water.

Anyway, for the electrical connectors etc, I was more thinking any connectors that are lower down (e.g. compressor ones?) for the conformal spray protection. I agree that if you find yourself in bonnet deep water, you've likely got bigger problems:o Is spraying a bit over the top then?

Cheers,
Scott

Re-read the bit in bold;)

Also having been in water up past the door seals when crossing rivers, I'd say no real need to waterproof the compressor wiring, also, it's exposed to all types of conditions all the time, mud, dust, water, sand and salt water and so on.

I'd be more worried about doing the tracks and water crossings safely, the D4 is no worse than any other 4WD really and consentrate on items not exposed to the elements all the time.

Baz.

[minibloodhound]

I did the Old Tele Track coming up to three years ago with absolutely no dramas, and some it was quite deep. Having said that, about three days after doing Nolans the car refused to start because the starter motor had sucked in water and mud and refused to crank. I would look at that first. Not sure if you can seal it with grease or vasolene or just spray it before doing any crossings.

Scott.

[BobD]

My starter motor failed 1 week after returning to Perth from the Cape trip but there was no sign of water or mud inside according to the dealer. It was replaced under warranty but it is a bit of a coincidence, particularly with your failure as well, Scott. Mine started to get a bit sluggish in Seisia but I thought it might have been a charging issue.

[Redback]

My starter motor failed 1 week after returning to Perth from the Cape trip but there was no sign of water or mud inside according to the dealer. It was replaced under warranty but it is a bit of a coincidence, particularly with your failure as well, Scott. Mine started to get a bit sluggish in Seisia but I thought it might have been a charging issue.

I would say that your failure would be a coincidence, in the 3 1/2 yrs we have had our D4, we have equaled 5 Cape trips easy, in the 112,000ks we have done, I've lost count of the water crossings, mud and dust we have been through over those Ks, the hardest or should I say wettest part of the Cape Trip is only 150ks, we drove from Mt Ive Station to the Organ Pipes and back out to the main road and then on to Pildappa Rock, it was mud all the way, probably 170ks easy and that's only one trip that was about 8000ks, we've been away when it rained non stop for days and travelled roads covered in mud for hundreds of Ks every day.

So I would say(not knowing but assuming it was not your only long trip) it was just a coincidence for you and Scott;)

Baz.

PS; Our D4 after the Mt Ive to Pildappa Rock.

This was the road conditions, the gate out to the Organ Pipes
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/South%20Australian%20Adventure/DSC00700.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/bazzar/media/South%20Australian%20Adventure/DSC00700.jpg.html)

The car and camper.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/South%20Australian%20Adventure/DSC00702.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/bazzar/media/South%20Australian%20Adventure/DSC00702.jpg.html)

Bloody nightmare to clean.

[BobD]

That's what I thought. According to the dealer the D4 3l starter motors are sealed and not subject to water, dust or mud. I had a look at mine and there was no sign of dust, water or mud. The windings just shorted for some reason. I have been through lots of creek crossings, dust and mud since with no further issues.

[minibloodhound]

My starter motor was definitely filled with water and mud, although we had been doing some wet tracks prior to going to the Cape. Although if they're supposed to be water proof, I may have been on the end of a "Friday afternoon" part. But it does Give me a little bit more confidence if they are indeed supposed to be water proof. (In the starter motor anyway!)