three amigos

[mate]

Im guessing I just got a glimpse of the three amegos this morning. I fueled my tank up to the top for the first time today and turned it on and 3 lights showed on the dash and didnt turn off till I turned off the car and restarted it. They were desent control, abs and traction control

[bsperka]

Yep - that's them.

[Roverlord off road spares]

They generally start like that, then they become more often and then more permanent.

[sierrafery]

The best is to read the stored fault code when you have the chance but i'm 90% sure it's a SVS issue and if it is it's also 90% that it's bad contact within the modulator or loosen earth unless the ABS light stood on alone after restart and went off when the speed exceeded 10km/h cos then it's a wheel speed sensor signal issue usually worn hub... as long as it's not something from the more uncommon 10% left it's quite easy to fix no worries

[bsperka]

I saw advice similar to this after I got my disco. Nothing could be further from the truth most (some) times. Mine was a loose wire in the connector body on the abs block, yet svs fault indicated. That's why I wrote symptoms and remedies - to guide people in better diagnosis of the fault.
If I followed the advice at the time, I would have done option B and/or replaced the svs, rather than push in a loose wire....
btw: option B would have bypassed the loose wire with lots of work, rather than a little.

[series3kev]

Mine are still around, but very hit and miss. Some days I start her up and the lights stay on after ignition. Other days, I can travel 100km before they come on. I had mine on a Nanocom (cheers Chris!) and it pointed to the SVS, which I replaced. Didn't see them for a while but they came back...this time, showing 'electrical fault' on the Nano.

I've since done a wheel rotation to keep tyre wear even and, whilst the wheels were off, I gave the rotors, calipers and dust shields a good clean with the pressure washer. No lights straight away but they still come on now and then. They don't appear to be linked to any particular activity, though...ie: heavy braking, bumps, etc.

Even checked the wiring behind the glove box, but wasn't sure which connector block it was, so I didn't get the contact cleaner on it...(if someone can point out the right connector block, I'll have another go!) ;)

I guess the next path of choice would be to replace the ABS sensors...?

Chars!

Kev F :)

[bsperka]

I've since done a wheel rotation to keep tyre wear even and, whilst the wheels were off, I gave the rotors, calipers and dust shields a good clean with the pressure washer. No lights straight away but they still come on now and then. They don't appear to be linked to any particular activity, though...ie: heavy braking, bumps, etc.

Even checked the wiring behind the glove box, but wasn't sure which connector block it was, so I didn't get the contact cleaner on it...(if someone can point out the right connector block, I'll have another go!) ;)


Abs sensors are in the axle, so cleaning may help any squeals, which may upset the sensors, but not with crud on the sensors themselves.

The wire I referred to is on the abs block in the engine bay. Yellow-green one specifically, but push all in. Don'tjust change stuff and hope..

[series3kev]

Abs sensors are in the axle, so cleaning may help any squeals, which may upset the sensors, but not with crud on the sensors themselves.

The wire I referred to is on the abs block in the engine bay. Yellow-green one specifically, but push all in. Don'tjust change stuff and hope..

Yeah, I reckon I'll just go straight for the sensors.

I checked that wire that comes from the ABS block. Disconnected it and sprayed contact cleaner in there on several occasions...no change.

[Milton477]

I did the wiring mod to the ABS modulator in 2009. I haven't seen the 3 amigos since. Just can't seem to find the article describing how to do it. Anyone?

[Fluids]

I think the virgin isl LR web site is no longer. The link in the good oil is dead too.

I did however save the web page complete ... Single file, but it's 7.5MB.

Sent from my iPad using Braille

[series3kev]

I did however save the web page complete ... Single file, but it's 7.5MB.

Sent from my iPad using Braille

That would be great. Could I get the page details? Ta! :D

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Ta Da!
I knew I'd saved them before on site somewhere:angel:

Have a look in FILES/Tutorials.
directly under the AULRO banner, right hand end.

As stated in TGO, wheel sensor faults are easy to locate/determine.
just do option B if its not a wheels sensor.
Dont spend a million dollars on repair kits or new parts.

[series3kev]

Ta Da!
I knew I'd saved them before on site somewhere:angel:

Have a look in FILES/Tutorials.
directly under the AULRO banner, right hand end.

Good work! :D

Now this has caught my attention. I say that because it could be a classic case of horse and gate....

When I Nancom-ed my D2, the fault pointed to the shuttle valve. So I replaced it. Curiously though, after I'd removed the old one, I noticed that the wiring was slightly 'different' to the replacement. And now, it all makes sense.....

The original shuttle valve had been modified to Option B. As I didn't know this back then, I just replaced the old with the new, connecting it up as it should be. This fixed the fault. Until now....

So...something leads me to believe that the fault isn't with the new shuttle valve, and actually points to something else. What's the best way to rule out the sensors and, if they're OK, where else should I look...?!

Cheers, mate.

Kev F :)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

all you need to know about fixing our three friends is in The Good Oil,,
for wheel sensors, just jack up one wheel at a time(only has to be just off the ground) start the car, put in gear, see if speedo moves.
If it does, that sensor is working.
no fancy gizmos required!

and its usually not the sensor, its the join between the two sensor cables that stuffs up.
'tis why they only sell one long cable now.

[bsperka]

Yeah, I reckon I'll just go straight for the sensors.

I checked that wire that comes from the ABS block. Disconnected it and sprayed contact cleaner in there on several occasions...no change.

Don't want to labour the point ( yet here i am) - push the wire / connector into the connector block from the back of the block. Mine was loose in the connector block so didn't make connect all the time = 3 amigoes...

[series3kev]

Don't want to labour the point ( yet here i am) - push the wire / connector into the connector block from the back of the block. Mine was loose in the connector block so didn't make connect all the time = 3 amigoes...

Did that. On all the wires. Still there. As I said, it's very intermittent. Sometimes right on start-up, other times not until say 200km/s or more....

I'll lift the four corners independently, at the weekend. Worth checking the sensors, too. After that, I just dunno....! :)

[strangy]

Good work! :D

Now this has caught my attention. I say that because it could be a classic case of horse and gate....

When I Nancom-ed my D2, the fault pointed to the shuttle valve. So I replaced it. Curiously though, after I'd removed the old one, I noticed that the wiring was slightly 'different' to the replacement. And now, it all makes sense.....

The original shuttle valve had been modified to Option B. As I didn't know this back then, I just replaced the old with the new, connecting it up as it should be. This fixed the fault. Until now....

So...something leads me to believe that the fault isn't with the new shuttle valve, and actually points to something else. What's the best way to rule out the sensors and, if they're OK, where else should I look...?!

Cheers, mate.

Kev F :)

Faults which reset are shuttle valve related.
Wheel sensor faults will only reset 3 times before remaining on.

Its all in the good oil........

......... any faults shown on a Nanocom or any other diagnostic tool will only direct you to the related component.

IE it may or may not be the shuttle valve but it is definitely associated with that component/circuit.

Which means you still have to fault find the related circuit/s. which is what Bsperka is pointing out also.

The good oil has multiple posts on this......
did I mention the "Good Oil"

[series3kev]

Which means you still have to fault find the related circuit/s. which is what Bsperka is pointing out also.

The good oil has multiple posts on this......
did I mention the "Good Oil"

Thanks for making it clearer, Strangy. I didn't actually realise that the fault pointed to a particular area, or that the lights remained on with the sensor fault after 3 resets. I should read The Good Oil. And yes, you did mention The Good Oil...! :D

[InMused]

Im guessing I just got a glimpse of the three amegos this morning. I fueled my tank up to the top for the first time today and turned it on and 3 lights showed on the dash and didnt turn off till I turned off the car and restarted it. They were desent control, abs and traction control

Excellent video explaining the 3 amigos, common causes and remedies from Atlantic British.

How To Resolve 3 Amigos Errors On Discover II (http://www.roverparts.com/resources/videos/3-amigos-errors-discovery-ii/)