D2 front recovery point

[jayray377]

Hey all,
old topic I know but I thought there may be some new ideas out there.
I am after a front recovery point for a 99 D2 TD5.
I know there are a few aftermarket ones around and I would be happy to hear opinions?
Thanks
Joel

[ballbag]

I fitted some dog-legged points from APT Fabrications.

Had to enlarge wombat bar mounting holes, spin bar 180 degrees and for reasons I can't recall attack it with a lump hammer. I also cut the bottom off the factory bumper bar, below the steel-backed section.

They take a 4.75T shackle.

[Hastykiwi]

APT FABRICATIONS. Quality Item, comes with bolts etc. Wombat bar may be an issue as it is folded tube steel. Lose it if you havnt already.

Cheers
Nick

[ozscott]

4x4 Intelligence ones here.

cheers

[jayray377]

Thanks guys. Are they easy fit, does one have to remove the bumper?

[Hastykiwi]

The mount to the bolts that hold your crush cans to the chassis, so no you don't need to remove bumper, you can just remove the nuts and bolts on one side at a time, but as said previously, you may need to remove the wombat bar.

Nick

[simonl8353]

Do you have the original bumper fitted? If so you might find that the aftermarket recovery brackets wont drop low enough to clear the bumper. However, if you have a bulbar fitted the bolt-on recovery brackets will be ok.

[DazzaTD5]

As already mentioned..

APT steering guard has integrated recovery points.

Regards
Daz

[DiscoKym]

I have one set on the Smart Bar mounts.

APT steering guard I am fitting also has integrated recovery points.

I guess you can never have too many?????? :wasntme:

[simonl8353]

Plenty of options.

I added a second tow point and attach a bridle when with a group. Works ok for me as I wanted to keep the original bumper. Cheers

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/607.jpg (http://s277.photobucket.com/user/Simonl8353/media/LROCV%20Tallarook%20Nov%2010/IMG_6397.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/608.jpg (http://s277.photobucket.com/user/Simonl8353/media/f1ce3c2a.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/609.jpg (http://s277.photobucket.com/user/Simonl8353/media/85265347.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/610.jpg (http://s277.photobucket.com/user/Simonl8353/media/IMG_5109.jpg.html)

I only removed the bumper to get a better angle to cut the hole, but in hindsight it could have been left on the car.

[PhilipA]

AFAIK most of the tow points are designed to fit with bull bars and so don't fit very well with a bumper.

John Davis sells a doubled up stock type tow point which fits with the wombat bar.

What I did was the cheapest option as I am a tightwad.
I got some 10MM steel and cut it to the same triangle shape as the stock tow point mount x2.

I bought 2xToyota hooks at Supercheap, well 1 as I had one lying around.

Attached the two tow points to the inside of the of the chassis with the hook outwards so in front of the chassis , and they miss the wombat bar and the hook allows connecting a snatch strap through the normal hole .

I made a similar hole in the other side and covered it with a panel I found on Stockton Beach which was just the right size and complete with press in retainers.
Replaced the stock bolts with 11MM ( 7/16?) bolts I had in the bolt box although 12MM will fit through the chassis holes ,but you will have to get the drilled holes in the steel EXACTLY right.

Regards Philip A

[DazzaTD5]

You can never have too many recovery points on a Land Rover....

why?.... because there are always plenty of other brands of 4x4s that get stuck.

Regards
Daz

[EddyEddys]

Does the APT steering guard's recovery points work with the original bumper? (D2a)

[Roverlord off road spares]

Plenty of options.

I added a second tow point and attach a bridle when with a group. Works ok for me as I wanted to keep the original bumper. Cheers

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/607.jpg (http://s277.photobucket.com/user/Simonl8353/media/LROCV%20Tallarook%20Nov%2010/IMG_6397.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/608.jpg (http://s277.photobucket.com/user/Simonl8353/media/f1ce3c2a.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/609.jpg (http://s277.photobucket.com/user/Simonl8353/media/85265347.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/610.jpg (http://s277.photobucket.com/user/Simonl8353/media/IMG_5109.jpg.html)

I only removed the bumper to get a better angle to cut the hole, but in hindsight it could have been left on the car.

As long a people remember these are only tow points and tie down points when on a flatbed trailer. They should not be used for snatch recovery or any high strain recovery, as they are not designed for that and are too weak.

[mate]

As long a people remember these are only tow points and tie down points when on a flatbed trailer. They should not be used for snatch recovery or any high strain recovery, as they are not designed for that and are too weak.

where would someone snatch from then? i have 2 x hooks ready for fitment but don't want to put them somewhere they are prone to fail.

also whats this wambat bar?? is that a UK thing ? are you meaning the reo bar?

[PhilipA]

As long a people remember these are only tow points and tie down points when on a flatbed trailer. They should not be used for snatch recovery or any high strain recovery, as they are not designed for that and are too weak.
Yes I agree Mario.

Even when Bruce Davis doubles them up by welding my gut feel is that there would need to be two with a equalizer if used for snatching.

However the mounts are as they have always been with the two bolts tubed through the chassis, and are pretty strong if 11 or 12mm high tensile bolts are used with washers. That's why I made 2 strong hooks to attach there.
I also have a portable 6000Lb Warn winch which I would use with an equalizer strap.
Regards Philip A
BTW , by the photos It appears Simon has used the original 10MM bolts. I would be fitting 11 or 12MM high tensile with as large washers as I could find and 2 nuts.

[simonl8353]

The discussion on tow points, tie down points and recovery points has been well communicated on this site. From a mechanical point, just try and double up on your recovery points (have 2) and reduce the strain on a 3mm thk chassis rail. ;)

[jayray377]

Does the APT steering guard's recovery points work with the original bumper? (D2a)


I too am/was interested in the steering guard so I enquired directly to APT.
To answer your question I can quote a reply from APT:
"The factory plastic bumper sits slightly lower that the steering guard so it will pose a problem if the recovery is in a upward position."
I'm thinking it may not be a viable option now?

[mrapocalypse]

I've got the 4X4 intelligence recovery points and steering guard.

I've been pretty happy with both.

Very serious bits of kit.

Bin that wombat bar. It's a joke.

Apparently there is a process for putting the bolts in with recovery points too. I think the bolt head goes on the the outside or something but mine wouldn't fit that way so just improvised.

I can take a pic if you want.

I.

[gusthedog]

so whats this wambat bar?? is that a UK thing ? are you meaning the reo bar?

The 'wombat' bar (only known as that in Australia coz you dong wombats with it) is the round black bar that acts as a 'guard' (loose definition) for steering components. It's the round black pipe under the front of your 4wd that sits in front of the diff etc - you can see it clearly in the last photo above with the front bumper removed. It is supposedly made from cheese :D