Exhaust heat shield removal

[p38arover]

I need to remove the heat shields off the RH exhaust manifold to investigate an exhaust leak and the bolts are being a bit recalcitrant. :mad:

I'm not sure I'll get the bolts out without tearing out the Rivnuts on the rear side. I can't get Penetrene in to the bolts. I can spray WD40 but it's not a great penetrant.

Is anyone running their P38A without the shields and, if so, have they experienced any heat-related problems?

If the shields are destroyed by tearing out the Rivnuts, I could still refit the outer half which bolts to the manifold.

[Hoges]

Hi Ron, have you tried the Loctite Freeze & Release ? Did the trick when I removed them for the head gasket job a couple of yrs ago. WD40 wouldn't budge them.

[p38arover]

No, I haven't. I'll see if I can get some. Thanks Allan.

[p38arover]

Hogan, you're a hero! :p

If you hadn't mentioned it I wouldn't have looked it up on the 'net. Then I wouldn't have found CRC Freeze Off.

So I went to my local go to place, Metropolitan Industrial Supplies to get some as I knew he stocked CRC. He hadn't heard of the CRC product but he did know of the Loctite. He didn't have either.

However, he went out the back and came back with a small aerosol pack of PB Blaster - a sample pack - and gave it to me to try.

The Yanks really like PB which I didn't know was available here, so I came home and tried it. It's not a freeze spray but a penetrant and it works.

Most of the bolts came out, one broke.

Whether it is as good as/better than the freeze sprays I have no idea - but it was free. As promised, I'll let the shop-owner know that it worked.

[dick180641]

Better than that is stuff called BOLT-OFF. made in Mackay sold by Blackwoods. Comes in a spray can @ about $10

[p38arover]

I hadn't heard of it. Thanks for that. I'll look it up.

[mtb_gary]

I wish I'd read this before taking the head off. I ended up bending the heat shield to get to the exhaust manifold bolts...crude but effective :o

Gary

[TheTree]

we used some anti seize when we put them back on, hopefully that will help if we ever need to remove them again

[97p38]

Hi Ron, re exhaust heat shields, I posted this note on RR.net>>>

The exhaust manifold heat shields were left off when we put a new engine in about 8 years ago.
JUST HAD A FIRE IN THE ENGINE BAY A FEW WEEKENDS AGO.
We were working it pretty hard up the beach in soft sand, as I have done numerous times before, and smelt something. Got out and checked and there were two small fires on the firewall - the larger one with flames licking up to bonnet height from down behind the engine! Put them out with sand and can't see any damage!! The fire was licking up around the coil packs, plug leads, wiring harnesses, etc.
Checked it over, changed my boxers, started her up and kept going. Needless to say I've cleaned the 18+ years of accumulated oil & dirt off the firewall and now looking for a set of heat shields!! (anyone got a source?)

<<< It's more likely my cruddy firewall contributed to the fire rather than not having heat shields..? I'm also considering wrapping the extractors in lagging instead.

Jason

[FANTOM P38]

Recntly took heat shields off my Gems - what a p**** of a job ended up cutting them to get them out.
They had to be removed so that I could get to starter bolt as I had my starter fry & catch fire last time I drowned BECM.
Luckily another Aulroian was on hand with fire extinguisher to put burning solenoid out.
I have not yet replaced heat sheilds & have not noticed any increase in under bonnet temps, but would not like to see another fire under there so will need to acquire another, but maybe it could be modified to make access to starter bolt a bit easier. Not that I want to be taking it out again but you just never know:(

[Keithy P38]

I removed my starter in-situ. Cut the end off an 8mm Allen key (I think it's 8mm don't quote me). Put the chopped Allen key in a hex-socket and two extensions. Came out like a pro with no broken or sheared bolts.

Didn't have to touch the heat shield.

Cheers
Keithy

[justinc]

Its 5/16" ideally Keithy ☺ have rounded them out before as 8mm is just a tad too small. Also have to ensure that you dig out all the encrusted oil and grit so the allen key gets right in to its full depth.

Jc ☺

[mtb_gary]

Don't you just love the mix of imerial and metric :confused: Plus the odd torx bolt thrown in for good measure :o