Your diagnosis requested?

[DomJ]

I have a 1995 Range Rover P38, which has been off the road for the last couple of years with a leaking airbag suspension system. Until just recently it was sitting on it's bumpstops.

I've reconditioned the compressor and block and it's no longer leaking and cleared the EAS lock. But I now have the dreaded engine check light (amber, not flashing). I cannot start the car, as in it doesn't not even try to turn over.

In key position 2, I have the battery light, park brake light (which turns off if I release the park brake), ABS light, Oil light, EAS light and Check Engine light. I also have LOW WINDOW WASHER (which I suspect is the sensor, because the bottle is full) and SLOW 55KPH messages in the message center. On the center dash where the suspension height control is I have all four heights permanently lit.

I have a FaultMate and and have v2 of EASUnlock on a PC which connects first time everytime. The FaultMate shows no errors, and it makes no difference if I choose to clear the errors.

On the PC I can control the EAS pump (on and off), I have filled the air tank and sent air to each wheel. I can also cycle messages to the dash and clear them. I can read the preset heights for each corner also. Click EAS Unlock makes no difference. Manually putting it into EAS Lock using the software causes the EAS message in the message center with beeps and the height control buttons lights to all flash. I can then unlock and it returns to the status I described before. The EAS is no longer leaking. There are no errors being read in the software.

I'm suspecting a sync issue between BeCM and the security outstation. I do not have any warnings about immobilization.

I'm wondering if anyone else out there has the same diagnosis and hs an opinion about whether the BlackBox SyncMate or NanoCom might work in this case. Does anyone know anyone in the Sunshine Coast, Brisbane, Gold Coast or Lockyer Valley that has one of these devices?

I live in Laidley in the Lockyer Valley, QLD. Would love to get my beast back on the road as a daily driver.

[daf11e]

Dom as a basic start....have you got a very good battery

[zzsteve]

Ok,
Is the key synched?
If not, try this courtesy of Benji

<snip>
To sync the key fob, put the key in the door, press one of the buttons ( doesn't matter which one), turn the key to the back of the car then back to the middle and let go of the button, press a button again and turn the key to the front of the car then back and let go of the button. You should then be able to unlock the car with the fob. There's a few ways to do it but thats always worked for me.

Being 95 you may be able to unlock it with the key and start it. I can on my 96, even if I've superlocked it with the fob.

<snip>

When you try to start, is there 12v on the wire to the solenoid ?
If not you have to trace back to ecm and becm. If it is active you have a frozen solenoid ( at least). Give it a knock with a hammer when turning the key, otherwise, pull the starter out (ouch)

Don't worry - it will come to life

Steve

[PeterH]

+1 on the battery, get it checked if you are not sure, can cause all sorts of weird error messages.
The low screen wash is probably just the sensor, I changed mine last year adn it's been fine since, I think it's a fairly common failure item.
I remember reading you can unplug the sensor (can't remember if you need to bridge any wires) if you want the annoying fault message to stop.
I just happened to see this video from RSW solutions yesterday, does this sound like it might help with the not starting issue?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhVgcIwLxSc

[DomJ]

Dom as a basic start....have you got a very good battery

Thanks for reply. Battery is new and fully charged.

[mtb_gary]

I noticed on facebook there is now a v4 of the EAS Gemstone software. Robert has certainly been busy!

Gary

[DomJ]

The key doesn't work (electronically). I've changed the battery, changed the fob casing, can't get it to light up anymore. I've always just unlocked and locked the car using the key, not the buttons. Would be nice to get it going again though. I've never had an issue starting the car without the electronics in the fob working... but this might be one of the things that is causing the issue. Not sure how to get it repaired, I believe you can't recode another key?

[DomJ]

With regard to the video, there's only one exception. My check engine light is on, but the other symptoms are the same. I do suspect it needs resynching.

[DomJ]

I'll check the solenoid tomorrow morning.

[Keithy P38]

Just before you go diving deeper, with the ignition on does it show the gearbox as being in Park or Neutral? The engine won't start of it's in gear or reverse!

Sounds silly, but has caught a few people out over the years!

Cheers
Keithy

[mtb_gary]

Dom, another silly (maybe) question. But dir you put the new battery in the fob the correct way around? It does fit in either way...

Gary

[DomJ]

Just before you go diving deeper, with the ignition on does it show the gearbox as being in Park or Neutral? The engine won't start of it's in gear or reverse!

Sounds silly, but has caught a few people out over the years!

Cheers
Keithy

Thanks for your tips Keithy, nothing is silly at this stage. I moved the transmission gear selector up and down the other day to check it was changing in the message center. It's definitely in Park (P), also tried it in Neutral - no cigar.

[DomJ]

Dom, another silly (maybe) question. But dir you put the new battery in the fob the correct way around? It does fit in either way...

Gary

Again, not silly. I did try this at the time. I puchased a new casing, and batteries. And thought initially I might have out the battery in the wrong way. I've checked the battery, it's definitely in the right way. I will have another check today, see if I can get it to work outside of the casing. Thanks for the suggestion.

[DomJ]

I noticed on facebook there is now a v4 of the EAS Gemstone software. Robert has certainly been busy!

Gary

I don't think the GemStone is available for sale yet. I can't see it on his website. I'll definitely be standing in line for one if it's reasonably priced.

[zzsteve]

Domj,

Put a meter or trouble lamp on the wire to the solenoid (not the big battery lead!) and try to start. This will narrow it down to starter/solenoid or some other electronic fault upstream.
Re-syncing may not be needed to start if you have no immobilisation msg showing and it's a '95.
Been down this pathway recently with a dormant '95 P38 and after sorting through security etc.. the last fault was a water-logged solenoid.

Cheers,

Steve

[daf11e]

The key doesn't work (electronically). I've changed the battery, changed the fob casing, can't get it to light up anymore. I've always just unlocked and locked the car using the key, not the buttons. Would be nice to get it going again though. I've never had an issue starting the car without the electronics in the fob working... but this might be one of the things that is causing the issue. Not sure how to get it repaired, I believe you can't recode another key?

Dom just a long shot, I changed my fob a little while back and found the new one didn't work and not being very electronically minded was stumped. After looking at both units I noticed my old one had some metal on the plastic screw disk that held the battery, the new one did not....put old plastic battery disk in new fob and bingo lit up.....just a thought

[mtb_gary]

DomJ

Follow the link below....it's now v4 of the software.

EAS Unlock V3 (http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/range-rover-p38a/range-rover-p38a-eas-unlock-v3)

A bit under US$200 plus shipping.

Gary

[finallyrangie]

Dom just a long shot, I changed my fob a little while back and found the new one didn't work and not being very electronically minded was stumped. After looking at both units I noticed my old one had some metal on the plastic screw disk that held the battery, the new one did not....put old plastic battery disk in new fob and bingo lit up.....just a thought



x2 I had exactly the same thing


also if it refuses to turn over but you still get 12 volts at the starter solenoid, make sure you have a good engine earth, I got caught out with that.


Good luck and keep us posted

[DomJ]

Ok,
Give it a knock with a hammer...
Don't worry - it will come to life
Steve

Steve! Just wanted to let you know this was one of the problems. Thanks mate. Checked connections on the solenoid this morning, everything seemed ok. Gave the solenoid a knock with a hammer, and hey presto, the starter is now turning over. Can't start the bugger yet, but I'm happy I've made progress. Sounds like it wants to go, and I've had a slight firing rumble as it tried, but sounds like it's not getting fuel. I removed the bolts on the earth cables, battery to shock tower/bracket, and then to engine block, cleaned them up and tightened them back up - just make sure it wasn't a dodgy earth connection.

I'm now getting a fuel gauge fault on the message center. The symptoms are pretty much the same as other posts I've read. I'm going drop the fuel tank tomorrow, check the connections on the pump. Failing that I will pull the pump check the float and resistance across the sensor. I checked the fuel rail and I'm not getting fuel at the valve, so I suspect pump is not pumping, or I have some **** in the lines from the thing sitting still for so long.

I'm wondering if there's a fuel filter somewhere along the fuel line? I found what I suspect is a filter but it looks kind of small. It's located in the rear right wheel arch after removing the plastic lining.

I managed to change all the bump stops today, the old ones were about half an inch in thickness - completely squashed. Also did an oil and filter change.

Anyway, just wanted to say thanks, I'm one step closer I think to getting it running.

[DomJ]

Dom just a long shot, I changed my fob a little while back and found the new one didn't work and not being very electronically minded was stumped. After looking at both units I noticed my old one had some metal on the plastic screw disk that held the battery, the new one did not....put old plastic battery disk in new fob and bingo lit up.....just a thought

I'm going to find the old fob tomorrow, I know I put it somewhere, just have to find it. I kind of do remember a little metal piece, I'll check the new fob to see if it has the same thing. Thanks for the heads up.

[zzsteve]

Whoohoo!
You should get a spray from the schrader valve on the fuel line if pump is working and filter not blocked etc...
Filter is on the inside of the driver's side chassis rail - easy remove and replace job.
You know you can't just leave that solenoid now. It should come out for inspection and a clean at least. Only then you will truly know if you are P38 master.

Steve

[DomJ]

Well a week and a bit later, and I'm happy to report my Rangie is purring again.

Had to drop the fuel tank and replace the fuel pump / sender unit. Replaced the filter while I was under the car with all the redbacks. OMG what a crappy job - I can understand why people cut an access hole in the floor now. Getting it all back in was much harder than getting it out though... reconnecting the fuel filler and the breather was a b! I'm pretty sure my right arm is longer than my left now...

Yes, I know I need to tackle the solenoid at some point... but I'm not doing it right now. I do still have the window washer to replace so I can get rid of that annoying beep/message too. But none of that is preventing it from running right now.

My wife and I worked out that the Rangie has been sitting around for 4 years doing nothing - longer than I initially thought. I replaced the water pump, radiator hoses and dash about a year and a half ago and had it running then.

This time I rebuilt the EAS valve block (o-rings, new collets, compressor rebuild), oil change/filter, replaced rear seatbelts, and replaced the fuel pump/filter.

I have a flat spot on my right front tyre, so getting 2 new tyres before testing for roadworthy. Hopefully within the next few days she should be fully resurrected and registered again.

I want to thank everyone for their advice, it definitely helped in getting her running again. Very much appreciated.

[DomJ]

I'm going to find the old fob tomorrow, I know I put it somewhere, just have to find it. I kind of do remember a little metal piece, I'll check the new fob to see if it has the same thing. Thanks for the heads up.

I checked the fob and it has the metal tab in the battery lid. I'm not getting any light or output from it when pressing any of the buttons. I'll play around a bit more and see if I can resurect it.