PROJECT 1, modular draw and sleeping area

[drivesafe]

This is Project 1 and I am the new moderator of this section so it is definitely a case of the blind leading everybody else.
Enough of the intros.

The first project is to be a draw and sleeping area to be built as a modular system and installed it the rear of what ever vehicle you have.

My idea is to try and get a number of similar projects going both now and in the future and put as much info on the different ways to go about the project in one location, here. Then anybody considering attempting to do a similar project for themselves, can simply look up the info.

The inspiration for this project ( yet to be given a suitable name ) came from a project, now in it's advanced stage, being carried out by sclarke.

He already has some great pictures of his work to date and as soon as I workout how to post a link to them, I’ll have them here.

Please feel free to add your comments and criticisms ( I think as being a moderator, I can remove the critical comments as quick as you can post them ) :twisted:

Any ideas or requests for other projects will also be appreciated.

Cheers all.

[drivesafe]

This is just a start folks, I'll get it together over the next fews days.

This link will take you to sclarke’s pics of his draw and sleeping system, which if you don’t know it by now, is the inspiration for this the first project in the new section


http://www.aulro.com/modules.php'set_album...=view_album.php (http://www.aulro.com/modules.php'set_albumName=album263&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php)

[drivesafe]

More Pics compliments Greylandy

http://www.greylandy.com/images/draw2.jpg http://www.greylandy.com/images/draw3.jpg
http://www.greylandy.com/images/draw5.jpg http://www.greylandy.com/images/draw4.jpg
http://www.greylandy.com/Temp/SD/images/SD3.JPG
http://www.greylandy.com/Temp/SD/draw2.jpg
http://www.greylandy.com/Temp/hfdrun.jpg

[drivesafe]

This link will take you to a site showing the aluminium square tube compliments of kaistuff


http://www.capral.com.au/capral/_product_d...eTitle=Products (http://www.capral.com.au/capral/_product_detail.jsp?id=6&product=2&user=8&PageName=Other%20Products%20:%20Qubelok&PageTitle=Products)

and this link will give you some idea as to where to get the tube

http://www.capral.com.au/_contact_us/

[drivesafe]

Hi folks, here is some info on pricing for QUBELOK, aluminium square tube.

The prices were provided by Capral Aluminium.

6.5m length of square tube ( 25.4x25.4.1.2 ) = $18.32

6.5m length of square tube with an of centre lip = $19.93

Black Plastic Connectors range in price from 96c to $1.30

Black Plastic End Cap = 15c

Black Plastic Castor + Castor Socket = $2.40

Sheets of Chequer plate are about $100.00 each


Check the posting above for the nearest Capral centre

[drivesafe]

Hi folks, here’s some prices for the Drawerguides, thanks to kaistuff.

Kaistuff posted me and said as he works just around the corner, he will be happy to get these for anybody, just PM him.

I work just around the corner fron hafele
can pick up for you and send on with curier
at no cost to you

go to the link below and pick some out

http://www.hafele.com.au/isapi/online/tchff/tchff.asp

http://www.hafele.com.au/isapi/online/tchff/tchff.asp

http://www.hafele.com.au/isapi/online/tchff/tchff.asp


use the pages before and after as well


100kg load per pair full extension installation /extension Langs. See page 817
421.15.604 $207.87+GST IN STOCK 600/585mm
421.15.659 $210.69+GST TO BE ORDERT IN 650/635mm
421.15.702 $213.49+GST TO BE ORDERT IN 700/685mm
421.15.757 $216.18+GST IN STOCK 750/735mm
421.15.800 $219.04+GST IN STOCK 800/785mm

100kg load per pair full extension installation /extension Langs. See page 816
421.08.609 $66.29+GST IN STOCK 600/500mm
421.08.654 $68.08+GST IN STOCK 650/550mm
421.08.707 $73.53+GST IN STOCK 700/590mm
421.08.805 $90.00+GST IN STOCK 800/680mm
421.08.903 $92.50+GST IN STOCK 900/770mm
421.08.109 $82.24+GST IN STOCK 1000/860mm


Cheers

[drivesafe]

Hi folks, as this IS the first project, it is also a learning curve so I'll try to keep things on the move.

If there are any questions please post them and if I can get an answer for you someone else will probably have one.

In the next day or two, I’ll post some pics of the QUBELOK connectors.

Here’s a tip for cutting the aluminium tube.

If you have a drop saw or a mitre saw, you don’t need to get an aluminium saw blade, you can cut the aluminium tube with the timber cutting blade. Before you cut the tube, spin the blade and spray all the teeth with a light covering of WD40 or the likes. Then just cut the tube slowly.
I have made at least 5,000 cuts using timber blades and the only thing to watch is the speed that you cut through the tube, just make sure to cut slowly.

Doing it this way is quick and every cut is square and clean.

Cheers.

[drivesafe]

Here's another set up, this one is Redback's and is made of timber, with some interesting features.


http://www.aulro.com/modules.php'set_album...=view_album.php (http://www.aulro.com/modules.php'set_albumName=Disco-drawers&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php)


Thanks for that Redback

[drivesafe]

Hi folks, at last I have worked out a rough plan of the sleeping area.

My original idea was based on having to remove the rear seats and then install the draws and sleeping structure.

After much head scratching, I have come up with a compromise that should suit my needs and might be of interest to others.

The intention now is to leave the rear seats in but fold the back of the seats down.

Next I’ll install a cage over the top, with three legs resting on the floor and supporting the front of the cage.

The rear of the cage will be bolted to the floor using the four anchor points in the rear of the Rangy. This way there is no need to make or modify the vehicle in anyway.

The draw back with this idea is the reduced storage space but the big advantage is that with this system, I can put the cage together in about 15 minuets ( I HOPE ).

Once the cage is in place, I will then slide a sheet of 12mm plywood in over the cage and then cover it with carpet.

The draws will simply be a number of those plastic boxes that have wheels built into the base of them and will be pushed in under the cage from the back.

Using these plastic boxes has some additional advantage.

I can have extra boxes and have them packed for different types of trips and stacked out of the way. When I’m ready to go somewhere, I’ll install the cage and then select the boxes I need for that particular trip.

The actual cage is going to be assembled like a macarno set but it should suit the purpose it is designed for.

I have purchased all the materials and I’ll start taking some pictures as I go and post them.

If anyone has any suggestions, let me know.

Cheers

[drivesafe]

Hi folks, it’s been a bit slow starting but I’ll try and get things going a bit quicker now ( don’t hold your breath though ).

After purchasing the steel tube, I quickly realised that it would a tad heavy to install and remove on a regular basis and as this is the way I need to go, it looks like I have a lot of steel tube handy to make garage storage shelves out of.

Back to the original idea of using the Qubelok aluminium tube.

As the corner fittings are black ( you could buy chrome plated fittings a few years ago but not now ) I have purchased 6 lengths of 6.5m Black square tube. This should be WAY MORE than what I need but I can foresee a few mistake and alterations to the plans as I build the structure. I also bought some more corner pieces.

The plan now is to make it modular so that it can be used for different chores.
The rear section will be built so that the seats can be in there upright position and the rear section will fit between the seats and the tailgate and can be left in the vehicle at all times.
This section will have two draw areas that can accommodate two plastic boxes ( 600cm long x 41cm wide and 38cm high ) with wheels fitted.
There will be no shelves or sliders, the boxes will simply roll in on the existing floor.
This will allow me to have a number of boxes pre-packed with different gear for different types of trips.
Behind the boxes will be an area that will be accessible by lifting a hinged portion of the sleeping deck above the draws.
This will allow for the entire draw section the be used.
This initial set up will allow me to quickly load up the Rangie with what I need for a short trip or if I’m planning to stay in motels and so, will not need the sleeping deck set up.


The next section will be able to be put together in a number of deferent ways, depending on whether I leave the rear seats in or remove them.
The first configuration will allow me to fold down the backs of the rear seats and put the sleeping deck area together in a short time, if I am going bush for a few days or I can remove the rear seats altogether and put in more storage compartments under the sleeping deck.

The plans are drawn and I’ll start fitting bits and pieces together for the rear section, over the next few days. I’ll take pictures as I go and if anyone has any ideas for changes and improvements as this takes shape, jump in.

I'll post the pics as they are taken, cheers.

[matbor]

Hi, just wondering what those plastic joining corners are like, for example if I was to bolt down a fridge to the top of you drawers, if you go over bumps will the caps pop out ?

Matt.

[kaistuff]

Mat you can get metal onc from Hills Industries in dandenong for 25mm rhs tubing i think there will fit with the aluminiun tube


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>marbore wrote
Hi, just wondering what those plastic joining corners are like, for example if I was to bolt down a fridge to the top of you drawers, if you go over bumps will the caps pop out ? [/b][/quote]


you can put a poprivert in to each leg of the corner and that will hold them together or the sheet on the outside will do the same

[drivesafe]

Hi matbor, as kaistuff posted, you can drill and then pop rivet or screw stuff to the tube or corners.

My intention is to make up the frame work and then just sit carpet covered plywood panels on top.

The top panels will have strips down each underside edge to aline them and keep them in place.

As the set up is going to be made up from a number of frame, these frames are going to be bolted together and we will see if they are strong enough then.

As for the caps or corners popping out. To put these QUBELOKs together, you have to use a hammer or wood mallet and a strip of wood and hammer the joints together.

The only way to get them apart again is to hammer them out again.

I made up two work benches with castors on them, using QUBELOK, about 20 years ago and their still in use and going strong.

As soon as the weather clears up a bit, I’ll be into it, so I’ll have some pics this week, I hope.

Cheers

[drivesafe]

Ok folks, here we go. PROJECT 1 - Section 1. The Rear Draw and Deck Frame

The first thing done is the plans as shown bellow.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_d1.gif



This next picture shows the luggage area of a 2003 Range Rover, the target vehicle for this project.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic1aa.jpg



After cutting just enough aluminium tube to make 1 cross section, I hammered the tube and corner pieces together and placed it in the back of the RR to make sure the measurements were correct and the plastic boxes would fit.

As you can see, so far, so good.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic2.jpg



This picture is shows some of the QUBELOK plastic corners
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic4.jpg



Using a mitre saw with the standard wood blade, I cut all the aluminium to the required lengths.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic3.jpg

After cutting the Aluminium, I then ran a fine toothed flat file over all the cut edges, both outside to make sure there were no sharp edges to cut hands or interior fittings and inside to make sure the tube and plastic corners fitted together neatly.


Tomorrow, I’ll finish assembling the Rear Frame.

[drivesafe]

The next thing to be done is to fit all the pieces together.
First assemble each cross section. Take your time here and make sure you have the correct corners placed into the right tube lengths and fit everything together on the floor BEFORE you hammer it together.

I made two mistake and it’s not easy getting this stuff apart again.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic5.jpg


With all the cross sections assembled, place the front section on the ground and loosely fit the tube for this section. In my case, there were 7 lengths of 210mm tube to fit.

The next cross section is put in place and gently tapped to hold it together while the rest is assembled.

Again, loosely fit the tube for this section. This time I had 8 lengths of 260mm tube to fit.

The third cross section is put in place and gently tapped to hold it together.

Again, loosely fit the tube for this section and again, I had 8 lengths of 260mm tube to fit.

Now place the rear cross section on top and start gently tapping each junction and make sure they all compress at about the same pace.
Once it is fully compacted, go to each junction and give it a bit of a hammering to make sure all the joint are fully home.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic6.jpg


As for the strength of the finished frame, I weigh 125kg and stood on frame. It’s rock solid and supported me with no problems.

The big test and it fits with a small amount space on both sides and the plastic box fits as well.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic7.jpg


http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic8.jpg


There are two doors to be fitted but they will be done as the last assembly.

This frame only weighs 7kg so moving it in and out will be fairly easy.

[kaistuff]

Nice Job Drivesafe style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif 8) 8)

in Vic we only get the silver anodises tube not the black one :cry:

[drivesafe]

Hi kaistauff, when I checked out the prices at Capral about 6 weeks ago, they didn’t have the black tube then so maybe it’s something new.

Years ago, when I first used the Qubelok, they had chrome plated plastic corners to match the aluminium finish and they also had a gold anodised finish but neither of these are now available.

The black finish looks good but I found that by filing the edges, it left a silver stripe at most of the joints but I hid this by going over the edges with a black permanent marker.

I hope to have the rest of the framework finished in a day or to, then I can get on with putting the decking on.

I haven’t bought the carpet yet as I want to see what the frame looks like to give me an idea of what type and colour carpet will be required.

Cheers

[matbor]

Looks awesome, might go down to capral and check it out... want to replace my system, don't like my current setup.

Matt.

[drivesafe]

Hi Matbor, I’ve got a bit more done yesterday and I’ll post the pics later to day.

BTW, I was supposed to post some pics of the roof mounted driving lights for you months ago, I forgot :oops: , but if you still want them I’ll post them latter today too if you want.

Cheers.

[matbor]

That would be great.

thanks
matt.

[drivesafe]

Here are a few more pictures of the on going sleeping deck.

This view is the as yet uncarpeted deck with the drop-in cover, on the draw frame.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic11.jpg

The next shot shows the under side of the draw deck top.
The under side has been lined with strips of carpet to stop any rattles.
The long board is a drop-in cover which will allow access to a rear compartment behind the plastic boxes.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic9.jpg

This shot is the corner mount that alines the deck to the draw frame.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic10.jpg

[drivesafe]

http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic15.jpg

[drivesafe]

At last the next instalment.

The basic sleeping deck is now finished and I’ll run through the assembly from making the last of the framework, to gluing the carpet to the deck and then to putting it all together.

Two smaller mirror frames have been made using the same materials as used to make the rear deck frame.

I have not included any plans for these two frames. Although they are pretty straight forward, they still needed modifying a number of times after they were first made.

The main reason for the modifying was that after they were made and put in place and even though I had taken all the measurements that I thought I would need, once I had them in position I found that the floor in the rear passenger section although appearing to be flat, actually has a slight curve from one side, over the centre to the other side and this didn’t show up until the two frames were put in position for the first time.

This first picture shows the two mirror frames before they were modified to fit.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic12.jpg

This picture shows the the two frames in position.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic17.jpg

http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic18.jpg

http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic19.jpg

Once the framework was finished and fitted, the front deck section was cut to size and this next picture shows the under side of the carpet with the glue applied.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic16.jpg

Note the small strip down the left side of the carpet. This area is to contact the top of the deck but a little trick was learnt while doing the first deck section.

I have left this area free of glue, both on the carpet and on the deck itself, this allows the deck to be move around the get it properly lined up before laying it down on the carpet. :idea:

You’ll also notice I have only applied the glue in strips. This is not to save glue but to save time. Using contact glue, I had 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the whether, to apply the glue and let it get tacky before sticking the carpet onto the deck.

With the deck and carpet side by side, the glue is applied in strips running at the same angle, then when the deck is turned over to be placed on the carpet, the strips will now be diagonally opposite and this means the glue strips will be guarantied to come in contact with other wherever the strips cross.

With the carpet glued to the deck top, all the corners are cut to shape and then all edges are glued down.

[drivesafe]

With all the major parts now finished, its time to put everything together and see how long it takes.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic20.jpg

First, the rear seats are folded down.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic21.jpg

The two front mirror sections are put in place from either side door.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic17.jpg

The rear frame is pushed into the rear with the rear deck in place and the front deck section laying on top.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic22.jpg

Next the three frame sections are bolted together using two bolts from the rear deck frame to hold the two mirror frames in place.

Then the front deck section is slid into position and the hatch put in place.
http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic23.jpg

All done, ready to drive away in 4 minutes and 58 seconds.
As I originally hoped I could remove the rear seats and put the sleeping deck together in around 20 to 30 minutes, by redsigning and allowing to leave the seats in place, the assembly time has worked out much better than expected.

There are still a few things to do yet before this project is complete but at least there is some light at the end of the tunnel and now it’s time for any feed back and suggestions.

Cheers

[MickG]

Looks great drivesafe and I hadn't considered using plastic corners for construction.....I take you avoided welding completely? Have you simply clicked the corners into the tubes or have you screwed these in place? Also is the system fixed to the floor at all? Your sections over the rear seats has given me a few ideas for mine as well so thanks for the great development shots and explanations.

Catch up with you soon and keep posting if you have any more pics as you go.

Mick

[drivesafe]

Hi MickG, first off, as a welder I make a good fence painter. :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:

Seriously though, I had reservations about using the QUBELOK set up and was planning to use steel tube and was going to get a mate to weld it all up.

As the plan evolved and changed and I got some feed back from others who had used QUBELOK, I decided to go with the QUBELOK ( and after already buying the steel tube ).

After putting the rear section together, I stood on it and found it to be rock solid ( I weigh in at just under 130kg ).

I still have a few things to do and one is to make, or more to the point, modify a couple of hinges that will simply clip over the RR’s existing tie downs on either side of the luggage bay and once the rear section is in place, the hinge will be flipped up under the frame and fixed to a bolt.

There are no holes being put in the RR so that when the framework is removed, there will be no evidence that it was ever there.

Also, as the combined weight of the rear frame and rear deck is less than expected, I am considering permanently securing the two components together.

I have yet to fit the flush pull handles ( I bought some but have to replace them as they don’t have springs in the pull-up so they will rattle )

And last will be the installation of two rear doors, have not decided on what type as yet.

Cheers.

[drivesafe]

By the way MickG, the QUBELOK plastic corners have to be hammered into place and no other fastening is needed.

Cheers.

[MickG]

Thanks drivesafe, that has certainly given me the inspiration I needed to re-jig the back of my car.

Speak to you soon, Mick

[sclarke]

Sweet mother of Jesus that looks Good.....
Mine looks Crap compared to that.....

Time to paint mine...

[drivesafe]

Not so sclarke, yours was the incentive and others gave me ideas as I went, so this one is really a combination of everybody else's ideas. :wink:

Cheers.

[sclarke]

After carting around the Dog and spare tyres in the back and Muddy Kids from the snow trip the plan for Carpet is not looking good.... To hard to clean....

I might seal them with timber sealer then paint it with a hard wearing dark paint.... Dont know yet....

I'll trial the rear table and see what comes of that.

[matbor]

Use some lino or some vinyl, easy to keep clean !!! might be a bit slippery though. Another idea is a rubber based paint, similar to that sound deadening paint you put on the underneath of a car.

Matt.

[drivesafe]

And keep us informed :wink:

[drivesafe]

Hi folks, after ordering the wrong hatch Flush Pulls handles I’ve now got the correct ones now and managed to get a bit more done.

The original Flush Pulls I had ordered were not spring loaded.

Having spring loaded handles stops the handles rattling as you drive along. These Flush Pull handles are constructed of stainless steel and as such will need little if any maintenance.

The following pictures show the installation of the Flush Pull handles.

After making the mounting location of the handles, a hole saw is used to cut the mounting hole.

http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic24.jpg

I drilled a pilot hole at each mount location and then I cut the through part of the deck from the under side first and then flipped the deck over and completed the hole from the top side.

http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic25.jpg

Cutting the hole from both sides reduces the amount of burring that would normally occur when you simply drill through from one side only.



http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic26.jpg

The Flush Pulls are placed in position and two small holes are then drilled to allow the screws to be fixed in place and a bit more of the job is done.

http://www.traxide.com.au/Project/pj1_pic27.jpg

[p38arover]

Nice units. Brand and part no.? Supplier?

Alternatively, I can see that you're gunna have to add these to Traxide's stock lines, Tim.

Ron

[drivesafe]

Hi p38arover, I got them from a wholesale company and they don’t deal with the public, but anyone is interested I will make them available.

I originally dealt with this company for other parts and it was only when someone on this post recommended checking out something that it reminded me that this company also carried some stainless steel hardware.

I’ll see what I can add to my web site.

Cheers.

[p38arover]

Tim, if you can give an idea of the retail price, I'd be very interested in some.

Are the other ones you bought suitable for use as tie-downs that will lay flush when not in use? Or, in fact, are these - especially for lashing down an Engel fridge?

Ron

[drivesafe]

Hi p38arover, I considered using these flush pulls for that purpose but I don’t think they are strong enough but I’ll go through the catalogue and see what else they have and I’ll post some prices and if possible, I’ll post some pics.

Cheers

[Maggot4x4]

Hi Drivesafe, does the tubelock come in a smaller Dia? Not planning on sleeping in mine.

[drivesafe]

Hi Maggot4x4, I have not seen any other size in the QUBELOK system.
There may be some other brand but I have not come across anything similar or of any other size.

A caution here, Maggot4x4 if you or anybody else are considering using the QUBELOK set up, shop around for the parts. One of the corner sections cost me $1.60 + gst from the Capral while the same part was $6.60 elsewhere. :twisted:

Cheers.

[DionM]

Wow that looks good and easy (my welding is as good as yours :oops:).

I have always wanted something that would allow me to 'stack' the Freelanders boot better as with the fridge and the recovery gear box in there, the boot is full. Something to put soft bags on top would be great.

Must investigate qubelock more ... where did you get your stuff from in Brisbane?

[drivesafe]

Hi again DionM, try this site.

http://www.capral.com.au/

[drivesafe]

Well Folks your going to love me but this is as far as I am going with this set up.

Use has shown a number of design problems that relate specifically to the Range Rover and this set up.

A version of this in a Fender or Disco would workout OK but the tailgate operation in the Rangie has proven this design to be lacking, so it’s back to the drawing board.

I already have some ideas but as work is now chaotic, I am going to have to put all my time into my business for now but I will source all the materials I need to start from scratch and then get back into the project again.

As I stated, the existing set up will work in a Fender or Disco and only needs to have either a door or draws install to finish the project.

Cheers

[p38arover]

Tim,

It would be great to hear about the issues for a RR - especially as I was gunna build one.

Ron

[drivesafe]

Hi Ron, it’s a simple but pain in the a## problem that only showed up with use.

The problem is that to access the storage area I had to continually open the bottom tailgate.

This wouldn’t be that great a problem but after a couple of trips through mountains of dust, opening the bottom tailgate just filled the back with dust.

The solution is to rebuild the rear section, only this time I plan to have the top deck split down the middle and each side hinged to the outside edge of the frame.

This will allow access to the storage by opening the top tailgate and lift one of the deck covers.

In my case, I want use this as a sleeping deck so I won’t normally have anything stacked on top of the deck which will make access easy.

If I do end up stacking the top of the deck, I still plan to have access through a door or doors at the back of the deck.

Cheers

[p38arover]

Thanks, Tim.

I had a frame in my previous RR see http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/thebeck...mod.htm#storage (http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/thebecketts/rover/rovermod.htm#storage) (click on images for a bigger view) but didn't find the dust a problem where I travelled.

However, I could access the top drawers without opening the lower tailgate.

Ron

[Ruslan]

I made it, thanks Drivesafe for your idea!

I had to make 2 frames, because 1) no way to fit one unit inside Defender110 and 2) I want to be able to remove one side to fit additional seats. Didn't take step by step pics, they are similar, but can post final pics/drawings/plans if anybody interested.

Cheers,
Ruslan

[bluelamb]

yes please post pics!

[AndyRevill]

Hi Guys,

I've only just seen this project - looks good, just a few things about Qubelock - I used it to make some drawers for the back of our D2a (pics here http://home.iprimus.com.au/revill/) and it's nice and easy to use in that if you stuff up you just pull it apart and make a new piece, it's also very light. the only down side I've come across so far is the joints - they fit nice and tight but they are prone to breaking, especially if the frame flexes at all. In our case I bolted the frame to tie down points at each corner of the cargo area, but over time (and corrugations) the frame could move at the joints due to sag in the carpet and these joints eventually broke. I think the solution is simple (for me at least) - once I'm happy with the design I'm just going to rivet some angle across the joints to stop excessive movement.

good luck with the project.

Andy

[Landy110]

Excellent, I've been contemlating a storage solution for the back of the Defender. This will be a great help. Thanks.
Steve.

[jake]

G'day Everyone,

Attached are several photos of our TD5. The storage system we have, has been well proven and was previously in my 300TDi. We have removed the seats to accommodate our dog Tess, she's a Newfoundland and need the space. The gray storage in that location will hold 4 10ltr jerrys of water accross it. Underneath is my Tirfor and spare filters. On the opposite side is the compressor.

The rear is set up with a box to put odd bits and on the right of the picture the cuboard houses our Lamps. Below that we store 2 x 10ltr jerries of fuel.

The left side at the bottom of the box houses my Thumper which I use to run the fridge, This then feeds off the dual battery system.

My storage in the floor area is, on the left our little kitchen. This hold basic foods such as spices and biscuits, pasta etc it also houses cuttlery plates cups and cooking utensils. The drawer on the right is for recovery gear.
Their are also 2 lids hidden on the right which also hold my tool kit.

We are quite organsied and have lived out of our car for 5 weeks. The packing is systematic and we have developed set spots for everything.

[Landy110]

Well I've got the drawer guides from Hafele, I got the 1mtr long ones and they look good and strong. Inspite of this I will be designing the drawer with V blocks on the sides at the rear which will engage with other blocks on the frame and the drawer front will be a snug fit in the frame so that the weight is taken off the drawer guides so they don't wear and so they don't rattle. Now I just have to get the rails from Capral. The problem with the rails is that being 6.5mtr long it is next to impossible to find a courier that will carry them and then the chance of getting them to Orange unbent, but Capral will cut them in half for me.
Steve.

[Ruslan]

Here is some pics.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/07/253.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/6151) https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/07/254.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/6153) https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/07/255.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/6157) https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/07/256.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/6159) https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/07/257.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/6160) https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/07/258.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/6162)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/01/613.jpg

Just back from trip to Simpson Desert. The construction still alive despite corrugations etc. We had 6 plastic boxes on LHS, 2 jerry cans with spare diesel and 2 with water + 1 box with "quick" staff on RHS. Compartments above wheel arches loaded with something too :)

Total cost is about $150. Weight less 15 kg including 12mm plywood on top. Each side independed and can be removed in 5 minutes (undo 6 bolts). At the moment can't see any disadvantages.

Cheers,
Ruslan

[perkj]

Thought I'd resurrect an old thread since drivesafe's project for this thread was the inspiration for the platform I built for my D3. BIG THANK YOU to drivesafe for this posting! The goals for my platform were:

(1) Had to be light weight (the D3 already weighs a lot, especially with the ARB bumper, Rover Specialties Sliders, roof rack, etc)
(2) Had to be easily removable...think under 5 mins.
(3) Had to have an OEM look/feel too it
(4) Had to be modular enough to allow for the platform to be expanded for when the 2nd row of seats is folded flat to be used as a sleeping platform (this bit is still left on the to-do list).
(5) Had to be strong enough to support a fridge and slide plus the weight of two people (for sleeping platform when needed).


Qubeloks aren't available in the US, so after some searching I found a company call eztube (Aluminum Framing Systems | Boltless Construction System | EZTube | Modular Framing | EZ Tube - International Designs (http://www.eztube.com)). The big advantage eztube has over others like Qubelok is that they offer connectors with a steel core verse glass filled nylon. Why are the steel core important? Because they will be a heck of a lot stronger and won't ever break. The only down side is they are about double the cost of the glass filled nylon connectors. I'm sure the glass filled nylon would have been up to the task, but I opted to over build it for piece of mind.

With that said, on to the build.

The first step was just to put a quick frame design on paper:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/627.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/perkj/media/1-1.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/628.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/perkj/media/2.jpg.html)



The next step was to semi mock up the frame with PVC pipe and joints. Why did I do this? Two reasons (1) to ensure I get all the right measurements, etc for a perfect fit and (2) PVC piping is ultra cheap compared to the tubing cost, so best to make all the mistakes with the PVC before cutting the expensive tubing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/629.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/perkj/media/D713F021-5BD9-4B23-B1A1-02AC0E9335E8.jpg.html)


Next was to cut the aluminum tubing and build the frame:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/630.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/perkj/media/3594756C-2AE6-42BA-8924-060D2B5C12DF.jpg.html)

Then add the plywood. Note I split the plywood in half width wise to allow me to remove half in case I wanted the fridge on one side but thenhad some tall items to carry on the other side:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/631.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/perkj/media/41ac4bd8-237d-4c4b-8b66-467263f98363.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/632.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/perkj/media/c57778f2-9ca9-4409-a292-147d0c0b038b.jpg.html)


Next step was to attach the frame to the D3's tie-down d-rings with some turn buckles. I used nut rivets to mount the eye bolts on the frame to keep the "nut" internal to the tubing:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/633.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/perkj/media/136B89A2-E005-42F4-95F3-184E78E5143A.jpg.html)

Final step was to carpet the plywood and then mount the plywood to the frame (with fanged elevator bolts) and the fridge slide to the plywood:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/634.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/perkj/media/EF6CDB0A-457F-46E2-A09E-D8D4835313A1.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/635.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/perkj/media/8C197651-7A18-4DB0-A1D4-7E8F686EC9D9.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/636.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/perkj/media/49cddda9-cf40-4446-8902-5bde22b2805d.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/637.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/perkj/media/78d21722-4b2b-4297-9492-045dd089e719.jpg.html)


Overall I'm really happy with how it turned out. I can remove the platform in well under 5 mins...about 3 and a half to be exact. The frame itself is only 11.7 lbs. I used 1/2 plywood (Russian Birch) to keep the plywood light as well vs going with 3/4. Haven't weighed the frame with the wood attached yet, but I can easily lift it out on my own. I little heavy with the ARB fridge slide attached, but expected given that the ARB fridge slide is very heavy and stout. If you wanted to, you could easily add draw slides and drawers to the lower frame. I'm opting not to to keep it light and will just use totes underneath.

Next will be to add a similar frame and platform for when the 2nd row of seats are folded down, but that is a bit on the back burner for now.

Jason

[perkj]

I ended up taking a gamble on a Travall cargo barrier (http://www.travall.us/land-rover/travall-pet-barrier-tdg1299) and got lucky....an absolute perfect fit with my platform and frame. Couldn't have asked for a better fit:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/232.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/perkj/media/7515046B-6730-4039-8133-53A45A2B75C6.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/233.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/perkj/media/64A5FA28-0740-45DB-B8B5-154F65876541.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/234.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/perkj/media/3877C0AD-679E-4AE2-BD70-71220F90F02E.jpg.html)