Fuel Bleed

[Chris078]

I'd like to clean out the fuel sedimenter and change the fuel filter tomorrow.
I'm a little confused as the the fuel bleed procedure.

I found this (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/207431-fuel-filter-bleed.html) thread which is pretty much what I though was the procedure, until I read something about a "full system bleed" needing to be done if you pull the sedimenter.

Could anyone help out a noobie and tell me what I need to do?:confused:

Thank you

[rar110]

I used to bleed be loosening the top of the front injector. Then pump the lift pump. Now I just pump the lift pump, and take it for an Italian tune.

I don't think it's text book, but works ok.

[BadCo.]

If you change just the sedimentor, fill the sedimenter up when you put it back on, then you won't have to bleed it.

Don't forget the gauze filter for the pump, pretty much in the front drivers side engine mount.

[Phil B]

Badco
If you are not changing the fuel filter at the same time you will be able to start the engine once you have put the sediment we back together
With luck it will bleed itself, if not open the outlet on top of the fuel filter housing and push down the fuel primer pump on the injector pump until you get diesel flowing out. Close that outlet and then pump diesel through to the bleed screw on the injector pump until you get diesel there as well.
Once you have done that crank it until it starts
DO NOT use any start fluids
Regards
Phil

[Phil B]

Badco
Sorry
I meant to address this to Chris

[BadCo.]

Badco
Sorry
I meant to address this to Chris

No worries, thought you did. You can always edit posts:P

[Blknight.aus]

Theres as many bleed methods as there are people who own isuzus

the short version of the by the book method.

theres 2 bleed points one on the fuel filter and one on the IP.
crack them both and pump the hand prime pump.
when the fuel comes out the filter, close that one
when fuel comes out the IP close that one
crack the injector unions
hold the accelerator flat to the floor floor
crank it till the injectors spill fuel
close the injector unions
hold the acelerator flat to the floor and crank it till it starts.


my shortcut method is to pump the hand pump till the resistance increases, pump it another 100 times, then do the step on the loud pedal and crank it till it starts routine

[Chris078]

Theres as many bleed methods as there are people who own isuzus

the short version of the by the book method.

theres 2 bleed points one on the fuel filter and one on the IP.
crack them both and pump the hand prime pump.
when the fuel comes out the filter, close that one
when fuel comes out the IP close that one
crack the injector unions
hold the accelerator flat to the floor floor
crank it till the injectors spill fuel
close the injector unions
hold the acelerator flat to the floor and crank it till it starts.


my shortcut method is to pump the hand pump till the resistance increases, pump it another 100 times, then do the step on the loud pedal and crank it till it starts routine


Thanks, but what is an/the IP?
<edit> nevermind , I assume that is the injection pump.

[Chris078]

wow. I'd be feeling a bit nervous cracking the injector lines.

Interestingly, according to the manual (EMEI G103)
on page 53 it details the bleeding the fuel system and does not mention
anything about cracking the injector lines.


edit to add: completed fuel filter change, followed the directions as per manual (not cracking injector lines) and it started and ran fine. Is there any way to do this process without making a complete mess? I had a little tray under the fuel filter and the manual hand pump, and still got diesel damn near eveywhere.

also whoever designed that oil filter backet needs some discipline. why mount the fuel filter housing the correct(non messy way) and then make you make a complete mess of your engine bay whenever you change the filter !!!

[PeteFox]

There is no big deal or danger in cracking the injector lines. Sometimes it is necessary as air is pretty hard stuff to push through an injector.
When changing the fuel filter, I fill the filter with clean fuel before screwing it on, saves a heap of time and messing about.
One easy way of priming the water trap and fuel filter is to fit the inlet line with one of those priming bulbs you see on boat fuel tanks. Works a treat, causes no problems and can be left in place permanently. Pushing fuel is much easier than sucking.
If you are just checking for water, leave the engine running and open the drain cock for a few seconds and it won't suck in air.
Pete

[Blknight.aus]

Is there any way to do this process without making a complete mess?

also whoever designed that oil filter backet needs some discipline. why mount the fuel filter housing the correct(non messy way) and then make you make a complete mess of your engine bay whenever you change the filter !!!


Sure is





my shortcut method is to pump the hand pump till the resistance increases, pump it another 100 times, then do the step on the loud pedal and crank it till it starts routine


failing that fit a facet type electric fuel pump somewhere in the supply line or replace the lift pump with it entirely.

IVe also used a vac pump to on the IP return line for a really recalcitrant suzi that just refused to bleed any other way.

you can also pressurese the fuel tank and crack a bleed line

mostly tho I just pump the hand primer till its just so mash the noise and crank it till it runs.

if you're doing an oil change at the same time as a fuel filter change I disable the IP stop motor in the of position and crank it on the start till the oil pressure builds (I'll also do the compression check which lets it wind over faster and do the valve adjustment and anything else which gives me a legitimate excuse to get some turns in on the starter) then re-enable the IP and hold it flat till it starts.

did you know that in your upside down housing is a bleed down screw so you can drain the filter before you drive it and make it the first thing you undo before getting on with the rest of your service work.

2L milk, juice and cordial bottles are your very best friend with this engine, you'd be amazed at how many "custom funnels" were laying around the amberly workshops while I was there.

[BadCo.]

Dave, I reckon you should do what Barefoot Dave has done and make a guide, but for servicing the motor and drive train. Then sell it. Your brain is full of good information, but maybe get someone to proof read it :)

[Blknight.aus]

Dave, I reckon you should do what Barefoot Dave has done and make a guide, but for servicing the motor and drive train. Then sell it. Your brain is full of good information, but maybe get someone to proof read it :)

Doesnt work that way...

The information is free and AULRO is the repository of it. Truth be told, While I can't lay claim to having a finger in mix of the pie that Barefoot Dave baked in producing his buyers guide he did let me help grease the pans.

IF I could afford to publish and give it away for free I would, Aulro is as close as I can get, its generally low bandwidth requirement means everyone who might need the info can find it and access it anywhere and thanks to incs unyielding efforts almost anywhen. It also means almost where ever I go I can usually get on and answer questions.

The cost of membership here, its worth it for the comaraderie and the knowldege that so far, every time, without failure or exception, when I've really needed it and when nowhere else was performing like it said on the can, This place had my back.

True I havent always had the cash to pay for the subscription but then I've been lucky and have been able to help inc out with other things which he has been gracious enough to support me with barter trade.

now I'm thousands of K's away I'm not sure how its going to work out but thats a bridge to be burnt when we get there.

in the mean time. Its an idle threat that I make that one day someones going to be forced to spell and grandma check all my posts, but if you've spotted enough, maybe you could convince mod to give you enough access to take care of making some of the corrections. Hell with the number of mistakes I make you could even make it a new class of moderator. perhaps you could even make some cash for the place out of it by selling it to schools as material to be corrected for term papers.