LED blinker help please!

[Shingleback]

Hi all, I've bought an wipec led light kit, great looking kit, but are stumped as to why my blinkers are on the blink, vehicle is an 84 isuzu 120. I installed the supplied flasher can which makes the blinkers blink at the correct rate, but the problem is that both front blinkers go at once. The side you indicate to lights up full brightness while the other side is about half brightness, swaps over for other direction. The rear indicators which are still the old led combo trailer type are working as normal, ie; only the one side lights up as expected.

I have also installed on the front guards new side LED indicators which I simply spliced into the new LED front indicator. They are a small universal truck marker light. I was wondering if adding these caused the problem, so I disconected one but no difference. Also tried another earth, and adjusting the dial on the flasher can to no avail.

Seems funny how only the front lights come on together while the rear ones are fine. So, whats going on? Any help be great thanks.

Cheers,
Andrew.

[BadCo.]

Are you saying you have standard indicator globes in the rear?

[rijidij]

Andrew,
I have been through exactly the same thing recently with my '88 County. I fitted LEDs to all external lights. I had the same thing happen with my indicators, both flashing at once etc.
I tried three different LED flasher relays, one cheap non-adjustable, an RDX adjustable one and a Wipac adjustable one. Luckily I only borrowed the RDX one at >$50.
I'm far from being an electrical expert, but I'm guessing the adjustable ones don't have enough adjustment to allow for the correct resistance in the wiring of a County.........the RDX unit worked fine on a Td5 Defender.
In the end I fitted resistors (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2Pcs-50W-6ohm-Load-Resistor-Good-Heat-Dissipation-for-Car-Turn-Signal-LED-Bulb-/141558858514?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item20f590c312) to the two rear indicators and everything went back to 'normal'.
Some will say that fitting resistors cancels out the power saving advantage of fitting LEDs, but for me, fitting LEDs has nothing to do with saving power whatsoever. The tiny bit of extra power used up in the resistors (and only when the indicators are used) is insignificant compared to the advantages of LEDs........brighter light, no globes to blow, long life and totally sealed from dust and moisture (a well known problem with the earlier type lights)

I hope this saves you some hassle trying to sort it out.

Cheers, Murray

[Shingleback]

Thanks heaps, will try the resistors. I was thinking I will first wire in the new rear led lights that came in the kit, the ones on there now are just cheap eBay combo led lights that a few of the LEDs are stuffed. Thinking they might have different resistance to the new ones.

So what flasher can did you end up using, the wipac?

Thanks again, Andrew.


Andrew,
I have been through exactly the same thing recently with my '88 County. I fitted LEDs to all external lights. I had the same thing happen with my indicators, both flashing at once etc.
I tried three different LED flasher relays, one cheap non-adjustable, an RDX adjustable one and a Wipac adjustable one. Luckily I only borrowed the RDX one at >$50.
I'm far from being an electrical expert, but I'm guessing the adjustable ones don't have enough adjustment to allow for the correct resistance in the wiring of a County.........the RDX unit worked fine on a Td5 Defender.
In the end I fitted resistors (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm
/2Pcs-50W-6ohm-Load-Resistor-Good-Heat-Dissipation-for-Car-Turn-Signal-LED-Bulb-/141558858514?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item20f590c312) to the two rear indicators and everything went back to 'normal'.
Some will say that fitting resistors cancels out the power saving advantage of fitting LEDs, but for me, fitting LEDs has nothing to do with saving power whatsoever. The tiny bit of extra power used up in the resistors (and only when the indicators are used) is insignificant compared to the advantages of LEDs........brighter light, no globes to blow, long life and totally sealed from dust and moisture (a well known problem with the earlier type lights)

I hope this saves you some hassle trying to sort it out.

Cheers, Murray

[Blknight.aus]

check the hazard light switch

sometimes they "leak" just enough to cause problems with low current leds.

for faultfinding you can also try putting one of the original lights iin as a temporary fit

[Shingleback]

check the hazard light switch

sometimes they "leak" just enough to cause problems with low current leds.

for faultfinding you can also try putting one of the original lights iin as a temporary fit

Thanks, I actually did this last night and are happy to say it solved the problem. I just temporarily wired in one of the old globes to add some resistance and it worked as it should! So I've ordered some resistors of eBay as Murray suggested, so I'm confident they will solve the problem.

Thanks all for the help.

Cheers,
Andrew.

[Dervish]

I have dealt with this before:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/185099-led-defender-rear-lights-indicators-flasher-unit-5.html#post2091947

Using resistors is fine if you're happy with that solution, I rehashed the indicator warning light to fix the problem that way. Basically, the opposite indicators are lighting up because of the current through the warning bulb. When you still had an incandescent bulb in the circuit it would soak this current up without lighting up because they're just so inefficient; now with all LEDs you'll have this problem.




Seems funny how only the front lights come on together while the rear ones are fine. So, whats going on? Any help be great thanks.

Cheers,
Andrew.

My guess is that the LEDs are configured in arrays differently in the two different lights. It's not really worth explaining further as it's not important.

[Shingleback]

Just an up date, I fitted the resistors and all blinkers now work, happy camper!

BUT, I wired up all the new LED lights, stop, tail, number plate, indicators etc, tested them several times and all was good, until I went for a drive, got back to find out the tail lights, number plate, and just the left front parker light now don't work. Blinkers, brake and reverse lights still good. Can someone please point me in the right direction, seems funny one front parker still works when everything else on the circuit is out.

I checked for power at the light, nothing. I checked the fuses, mine is the old county glass fuse type and I dont have the sticker telling me whats what, and the second bottom fuse on right fuse block was blown and I worked out power came to that fuse when the light switch was activated. I replaced the fuse, was 5A, and it blew. tried 10A, blew. Is this fuse my likely problem? How do I track down the short? Will go over my wiring and have a look.

Cheers,

Andrew.

[Blknight.aus]

Get about 2m of 2 core ire solder it to a blown use, spade the other end onto about 60-100w headlight bulb and watch it light up, now go around and start disconecting things one at a time till the light goes out.

as soon as you get the light to go out the problem is downstream to earth from there.

[Shingleback]

Get about 2m of 2 core ire solder it to a blown use, spade the other end onto about 60-100w headlight bulb and watch it light up, now go around and start disconecting things one at a time till the light goes out.

as soon as you get the light to go out the problem is downstream to earth from there.

Thanks Dave worked a treat. I suspected the short was in the new wiring and with your helpful tip i tracked it down quickly.. Turned out to be my improvised numberplate light which is a short section of flexible led light strip that you cut to length. The cut end was shorting out.
Thanks again,
Andrew.