TD5 breather pressure

[Jazzman]

Ok. I would like some constructive input into a strange issue I've got.


I've replaced my breather valve at the intake. I've also has to stick my cam access cover in with instant gasket.


If I take the oil filler cap off when the engine is idling I get pressure and mist out the top with a sound of air movement. I seem to have an oil leak from the breather hose that gets passed the hose clamp on top of the engine.
The motor had done 300k kms. Should I be concerned and if so why and what can I do to fix it?

[discorevy]

While some blow by is not unusual for those kilometers , if excessive, you may have to look at a rebuild in the not too distant future, however, if you can get someone to load up the engine a bit if its auto ( aka stall test ) , while you observe if the blow by reduces with the oil cap off. If it does , then don't stress too much as this means the rings are still able to seal under load, re: breather hose , check to see but its probably cracked with age and heat
Cheers

[rangieman]

Ok. I would like some constructive input into a strange issue I've got.


I've replaced my breather valve at the intake. I've also has to stick my cam access cover in with instant gasket.


If I take the oil filler cap off when the engine is idling I get pressure and mist out the top with a sound of air movement. I seem to have an oil leak from the breather hose that gets passed the hose clamp on top of the engine.
The motor had done 300k kms. Should I be concerned and if so why and what can I do to fix it?

No dont stress just yet in my opinion dont make work for your self

[bob10]

After eliminating all other causes, [ blockage in crankcase breather hose, etc, simple things first] you can do a compression test on cylinders 1-4 after removing the glow plugs [ no glow plug on cylinder 5] I think 20 + bar is what you want, but don't quote me on that. This is an example of bad blow by, Bob


https://youtu.be/UgmYvMoxyJo

[Jazzman]

I just compared my blow with the linked video bob10 posted. Mine is not quite as bad as in the video, but it is similar. I've taken video footage with my phone, 1 - idle (approx. 75% of blow in video) 2 - in Park at approx. 3500rpm (no blow) 3 - in Drive stalled approx. 2000rpm (blow reduces by about 1/3)

I'll see if I can convert the video as the are approx. 20Mb each.

Thanks for your input everyone.

[Jazzman]

See previous post for video footage. Can I get away with running thicker oil for a while? I'm using 10W 40 currently.

[Tombie]

No... Thicker oil can do damage...

[Jazzman]

No... Thicker oil can do damage...

I thought there might be a problem running thicker oil through the turbo.

But what would I cause damage to running 10W50 for example?

[Tombie]

Won't stop what you're trying to solve...

[Jazzman]

Won't stop what you're trying to solve...

If the rings are worn causing this issue, it is fair to hazard a guess thicker oil would help temporarily. If it is polished bores maybe not.

I'm keen to listen to what you have to say, but could you please be more constructive and explain what the problem is with running thicker oil in this situation.

[Jazzman]

Approx. $1500 AUD + freight for head gasket kit, piston rings, conrod and main bearings, bottom gasket kit and timing gears and chain from Turner Engineering.

That might be the way to go.

[discorevy]

If you can get by without the vehicle for a while it would pay to do a strip down of your engine first , before ordering your parts as you don't know what the bores/pistons / valves etc look like
If you can't do without the car , then a good 2nd hand engine might be a better bet, allowing you to build at your leisure.
Cheers

[Jazzman]

If you can get by without the vehicle for a while it would pay to do a strip down of your engine first , before ordering your parts as you don't know what the bores/pistons / valves etc look like
If you can't do without the car , then a good 2nd hand engine might be a better bet, allowing you to build at your leisure.
Cheers

Good advice. I completely agree.

[Jazzman]

Would anyone know if a head from a Dec 2003 TD5 EU3 bolt onto a Td5 bottom end from 2000 disco?

[Pippin]

Yes it will bolt on, however you will have to change the Fuel Pressure Regulator and add the fuel line from the EU3 head to it.

[Jazzman]

Yes it will bolt on, however you will have to change the Fuel Pressure Regulator and add the fuel line from the EU3 head to it.

I noticed the intake side of the motor was different.

OK to confirm I understand correctly. As long as I use all other parts from my EU3 engine (FPR and fuel line) to bolt onto bottom end of the 2000 motor I should be sweet?

What head gasket would I use, the same type as what comes off the EU3 motor?

Thanks for your reply.

[Jazzman]

If the rings are worn causing this issue, it is fair to hazard a guess thicker oil would help temporarily. If it is polished bores maybe not.

I'm keen to listen to what you have to say, but could you please be more constructive and explain what the problem is with running thicker oil in this situation.

Just for the record running thicker oil (20W50) made no difference, I still don't know why.

[Pippin]

I noticed the intake side of the motor was different.

OK to confirm I understand correctly. As long as I use all other parts from my EU3 engine (FPR and fuel line) to bolt onto bottom end of the 2000 motor I should be sweet?

What head gasket would I use, the same type as what comes off the EU3 motor?

Thanks for your reply.

Yes it will be sweet. Use the same type gasket as fitted to the 2000 bottom end i.e.; 1 hole 2 hole or 3 hole.

[Jazzman]

Information I have gathered from people who know more than I.

While this combination would run OK , its not ideal as the 16 p engines run higher pressure injectors , so they run a different cam therefore a stronger timing chain, also the eu3 bottom ends have the combustion recess offset , ie different pistons , so yep , not ideal , bummer because I know the wreckers want a fortune , I guess if you were really stuck you could do it

[simonmelb]

Besides some blowby do you have any other symptoms of an overly worn engine? Remember TD5's do not wear out easily unless they have been mistreated in some way. ( see http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/165662-fuel-injection.html#post1822522 )

Oil consumption?
Low power?
High fuel consumption?
Oil dilution?

If all else is normal I would do nothing, but fit a Provent, run fully sythetic oil which evaporates less easily and drive it.

Don't waste your money trying to fix a problem if you don't really have one.

[Jazzman]

Just for the record running thicker oil (20W50) made no difference, I still don't know why.

TD5Inside advised me not to run thicker oil because it will put the oil pump under too much strain.

[Jazzman]

Besides some blowby do you have any other symptoms of an overly worn engine? Remember TD5's do not wear out easily unless they have been mistreated in some way. ( see http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130-defender-county/165662-fuel-injection.html#post1822522 )

Oil consumption?
Low power?
High fuel consumption?
Oil dilution?

If all else is normal I would do nothing, but fit a Provent, run fully sythetic oil which evaporates less easily and drive it.

Don't waste your money trying to fix a problem if you don't really have one.

Oil consumption? 2 liters in 2 weeks approx 2000k'ms including a 100km low range 4WD weekend. I checked the oil when i got home from the trip and put 2 litres in it.

Low power? - Couldn't tell you I've got nothing to compare against. I recently blocked the EGR and it has made a significant difference to the throttle response.

High fuel consumption? - Difficult to be sure as my MAF failed about the same time so i'm using more fuel anyway.

Oil dilution? With what? No water in oil. But I put 8 litres of Magnatec 10W40 in it about 2 weeks ago along with 2 new oil filters. When I checked the oil after the trip it was black. **Interesting note my car was not blowing any smoke. Even when I pushed it flat out up a hill on the way home.**

[simonmelb]

Hmm..not normal of course!

I hope you get to the bottom of it and find a non expensive solution eg a good secondhand complete engine or a bargain complete disco.

[Pippin]

Information I have gathered from people who know more than I.

While this combination would run OK , its not ideal as the 16 p engines run higher pressure injectors , so they run a different cam therefore a stronger timing chain, also the eu3 bottom ends have the combustion recess offset , ie different pistons , so yep , not ideal , bummer because I know the wreckers want a fortune , I guess if you were really stuck you could do it


Yes and no! You would be wise to use your 2000 injectors in the EU3 head and your cam then it would be fine and you wouldn't have to mess around with injector codes. Any problems doing that anyone?

[Roverlord off road spares]

Jazzman, you won't really know until you pop the head, it might be as simple as a broken piston ring or stuck oil rings.

[roverv8]

Oil dilution? With what? No water in oil

Oil dilution with diesel.
The injectors have an oring seal & copper washer on each injector, if corrupt can pass diesel into the oil thinning it out...

This can happen with a crack in the head as the early engine/head has 2 internal fuel galleries, but would think your oil level would rise if this were the case.
I had raw diesel in the coolant from this.

check the dipstick & see if the oil looks watery/unusually thin, or a diesel smell to it

[Jazzman]

Oil dilution with diesel.
The injectors have an oring seal & copper washer on each injector, if corrupt can pass diesel into the oil thinning it out...

This can happen with a crack in the head as the early engine/head has 2 internal fuel galleries, but would think your oil level would rise if this were the case.
I had raw diesel in the coolant from this.

check the dipstick & see if the oil looks watery/unusually thin, or a diesel smell to it

This is interesting. The oil did seem kind of thin and black on the dip stick. But can't be sure. The 20W50 didn't look thin after about 200kms. I'll check the injectors.

I removed everything from the motor today, intake, exhaust ect. The head has been loosened so has the timing chain and top gear.

The engine crane is setup so tomorrow i can take the head off straight away.

[Jazzman]

Yes and no! You would be wise to use your 2000 injectors in the EU3 head and your cam then it would be fine and you wouldn't have to mess around with injector codes. Any problems doing that anyone?

I decided to let the bloke who bought the head off the bottom end i was going to by also by the bottom end as well so he had a pair.

I'm just going to rebuild the motor I have, it will cost more or less the same. Thanks for your advice though, much appreciated.

[Jazzman]

So next phase. Cylinders 1 and 5 have a lip on the top, larger on the front than the rear. Not sure of the measurements exactly but enough to catch your finger nail on.

Is this common?

I can't work out why this motor appeared to be functioning fine for 280,000kms then at 295,000kms have bad blow by and use oil.

[bronson]

So next phase. Cylinders 1 and 5 have a lip on the top, larger on the front than the rear. Not sure of the measurements exactly but enough to catch your finger nail on.

Is this common?

I can't work out why this motor appeared to be functioning fine for 280,000kms then at 295,000kms have bad blow by and use oil.

Hey Jazzman,
Ive just done a rebuild on mine.....293k was lipped on cylinder one and five, broken ring and low comp. 10.5K later shes back on the rd.

cheers
bronson

[Jazzman]

Hey Jazzman,
Ive just done a rebuild on mine.....293k was lipped on cylinder one and five, broken ring and low comp. 10.5K later shes back on the rd.

cheers
bronson

I'm assuming you paid someone else to rebuild it for that price? And you replaced the head?

[Jazzman]

Ring gap in mm. Top = ring flush with top of block after knocking piston through the top clearing carbon on the way out. Mid = 55mm down the cylinder from the top. I used the top ring corresponding to each piston and cylinder for each measurement.

RAVE says the gap must be 0.3mm - 0.4mm.

1 Top = 3.18 Mid = 3.28 Diff= 0.1
2 Top = 0.7 Mid = 0.75 Diff= 0.05
3 Top = 0.33 Mid = 0.55 Diff= 0.22
4 Top = 0.45 Mid = 0.45 Diff= 0
5 Top = 2.33 Mid = 2.46 Diff= 0.13

[bronson]

Yes, inc new set of injectors, new sleeve and re bore with o/s pistons and rings, oil pump etc etc.
Heaps better on juice but not that fantastic with the MSB ecu, looking forward to popping a flash able unit in when Ive got the coin for the map.

cheers
bronson

[DazzaTD5]

Variations in bore wear, variations between cylinders, and the ridge at the top is "normal" for any engine thats got high km's. This will vary depending on engine use, how used, how many km's, environment used, how much maintenance.

My guess is (just from reading your posts) the bores will also be glazed (as in there is very little to no cross hatching visible.

If you are going to the trouble of rebuilding the engine, then it really does need to come out, have the bores measured to see how much wear is there (rather than looking at it with your finger nail) measure the big ends, mains etc. I suppose it depends on how far you want to go.

The reason why changing the weight of oil didnt have any effect is it cant remove any cylinder bore glaze.

The reason why it suddenly started to get blowby, maybe one or more compression rings has jammed or has jammed more to be noticeable.

I generally recommend a 15W40 in the TD5 engine, anything less, well its just not that high tech an engine to need the likes of a 5W40. As for a 20W50 well its a bit more high tech than the engine in grandpa's tractor (but is fine in a 4.0lt Jeep 6 cylinder, designed in the 60's).

The TD5 is a long lasting, well designed, good balance between low/high tech and is very re-buildable engine. But with any diesel do the "threes" "clean air, clean oil, clean fuel" and it will last a lifetime.

Regards
Daz

[DazzaTD5]

Ring gap in mm. Top = ring flush with top of block after knocking piston through the top clearing carbon on the way out. Mid = 55mm down the cylinder from the top. I used the top ring corresponding to each piston and cylinder for each measurement.

RAVE says the gap must be 0.3mm - 0.4mm.

1 Top = 3.18 Mid = 3.28 Diff= 0.1
2 Top = 0.7 Mid = 0.75 Diff= 0.05
3 Top = 0.33 Mid = 0.55 Diff= 0.22
4 Top = 0.45 Mid = 0.45 Diff= 0
5 Top = 2.33 Mid = 2.46 Diff= 0.13

The measurements are when using a new ring, this also wont show you an out of round cylinder. A bore gauge is the only correct way of doing it.

Are you getting someone to rebuild the engine correctly or are you thinking of just putting in new rings? and the bore glaze? and not checking the rest of the bottom end? if so, this wont solve your oil consumption issue.

I'm not trying to sound critical here or to discourage you. I'm all for helping people out that want to do their own fix. But I dont encourage people to just slap a few new parts in the engine and expect it to do another 300K

Regards
Daz

[Jazzman]

The measurements are when using a new ring, this also wont show you an out of round cylinder. A bore gauge is the only correct way of doing it.

Are you getting someone to rebuild the engine correctly or are you thinking of just putting in new rings? and the bore glaze? and not checking the rest of the bottom end? if so, this wont solve your oil consumption issue.

I'm not trying to sound critical here or to discourage you. I'm all for helping people out that want to do their own fix. But I dont encourage people to just slap a few new parts in the engine and expect it to do another 300K

Regards
Daz

Call it wishful thinking, I was hoping the bores would be OK apart from being glazed. The optimistic plan was to hone the cylinders, replace the rings, bearings and timing chain. Have the head checked by a pro and listen to his suggestions.

Then put it all back together and be happy. It has not quite worked out that way so far.

[Roverlord off road spares]

Call it wishful thinking, I was hoping the bores would be OK apart from being glazed. The optimistic plan was to hone the cylinders, replace the rings, bearings and timing chain. Have the head checked by a pro and listen to his suggestions.

Then put it all back together and be happy. It has not quite worked out that way so far.
Might be a warranty claim, see what the seller says:censored:

[bronson]

I was hoping for a similar outcome with mine, unfortunately it wasn't to be for me.
Cheers
Bronson

[Jazzman]

Has anyone resleeved a TD5 while the block was still bolted into the car? I believe I can make a tool to remove the old sleeves, possibly fit the new ones too.

Having said that has anyone done it before?

[Roverlord off road spares]

Has anyone resleeved a TD5 while the block was still bolted into the car? I believe I can make a tool to remove the old sleeves, possibly fit the new ones too.

Having said that has anyone done it before?
Found this on web
Easier Installation
The old school way of installing a dry sleeve was to place it in the bore, put a block of wood over the top of the sleeve and then pound it down into the block with a hammer. That may have worked years ago when dimensions and clearances are not as critical as they are today, but that kind of installation procedure has no place in today's machine shops.
The recommended way to install sleeves is to chill or freeze the sleeves and to preheat the block. Placing the sleeves in a household deep freeze will typically shrink their outer diameter about .002˝. Packing them with dry ice or spraying them with some liquid nitrogen will shrink them even more, typically .003˝ or so. This often allows the sleeves to drop right in with little or no effort, reducing the risk of damaging or distorting the sleeves. Preheating the block slightly to about 120 degrees will also open up the bores a bit, making installation easier. If you do need to apply force to push the sleeve into place, don't beat on it with a hammer, use a mandrel to press it in.
Here's another tip for performance engine builders: stress relieve the block after sleeving by mounting the block on a vibratory table and letting it shake at high frequency for 15 to 30 minutes. Cryogenically treating the block (freezing it down to minus 300 degrees F below zero in a long slow freeze and thaw cycle) is another method that can stress relieve blocks and reduce block distortion.

Finishing the Cylinders
Once the sleeves have been installed, the inside of the cylinder can be finished to specifications. Getting the rings to seat and seal properly requires a finish that provides good support for the rings, retains oil and does not require a lengthy break-in period. For most late-model and performance engines, that means a plateau finish.
A plateau bore finish is what all types of rings eventually produce when they are fully seated, so the closer the bore can be prefinished to a plateau-like condition the less the rings and cylinders will wear as the engine breaks in, the better the rings will seal right from the start, and the longer the rings will last.
For moly rings, a two-step honing process can be used to achieve a plateau finish. First, hone with a conventional #280 grit silicon carbide vitrified abrasive. Then finish by briefly touching the bores with a #400 grit stone or giving them several strokes with an abrasive nylon honing tool or brush.
If the cylinders are honed with diamond stones, you can follow up with a finer grit diamond, a fine grit vitrified abrasive or a brush to finish the bores.
If you're not applying a plateau finish to the cylinders, honing with #220 grit silicon carbide stones works well with plain cast iron or chrome rings. Use #280 grit stones for moly-faced rings, or #320 to #400 grit stones for moly rings if the engine is being built for racing or performance.
After the cylinders have been honed, don't forget to scrub them out with warm soapy water and a brush to remove all honing and metallic debris. This is an often overlooked step that can ruin a new set of rings in a hurry.

Diesel Wet Liners
If you're rebuilding a diesel or industrial engine that has wet liners, interference fit is not a concern. Most such liners are a simple slip fit installation, and many are prefinished to specifications. Even so, you should pay close attention to the condition of the counterbores in the block so the liners are supported properly ? especially if the engine has been rebuilt before. If the counterbore that supports the liner flange is damaged or corroded, it will have to be remachined to support the liner properly.
Use the type of seal lubricant specified by the manufacturer. Using the wrong type of lubricant may cause the seal to swell, preventing the liner from fitting properly.
If the old liners have a heavy coating of lime or scale on the outside, the cooling jackets in the block as well as the rest of the cooling system should be cleaned. Anything that sticks to the outside of the liners can inhibit heat transfer.
Many late-model diesel engines require cylinder liners that are induction hardened, ductile iron or some other type of high quality wear-resistant iron alloy. Cheaper materials won't hold up and will likely result in rapid wear and premature failure. A good quality liner should easily last 500,000 miles or more in a Class 8 over-the-road truck.
Liner protrusion must also be correct for the head gasket to seal properly. If one cylinder liner sits higher than those in the adjacent cylinders, it can affect sealing.



Share This Article





Related articles:


The Benefits of Forced Induction (http://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-articles/the-benefits-of-forced-induction/)



- See more at: Installing Cylinder Sleeves | KnowYourParts (http://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-articles/installing-cylinder-sleeves/#sthash.XU5Era4g.dpuf)
Installing Cylinder Sleeves | KnowYourParts (http://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-articles/installing-cylinder-sleeves/)Easier Installation
The old school way of installing a dry sleeve was to place it in the bore, put a block of wood over the top of the sleeve and then pound it down into the block with a hammer. That may have worked years ago when dimensions and clearances are not as critical as they are today, but that kind of installation procedure has no place in today's machine shops.
The recommended way to install sleeves is to chill or freeze the sleeves and to preheat the block. Placing the sleeves in a household deep freeze will typically shrink their outer diameter about .002˝. Packing them with dry ice or spraying them with some liquid nitrogen will shrink them even more, typically .003˝ or so. This often allows the sleeves to drop right in with little or no effort, reducing the risk of damaging or distorting the sleeves. Preheating the block slightly to about 120 degrees will also open up the bores a bit, making installation easier. If you do need to apply force to push the sleeve into place, don't beat on it with a hammer, use a mandrel to press it in.
Here's another tip for performance engine builders: stress relieve the block after sleeving by mounting the block on a vibratory table and letting it shake at high frequency for 15 to 30 minutes. Cryogenically treating the block (freezing it down to minus 300 degrees F below zero in a long slow freeze and thaw cycle) is another method that can stress relieve blocks and reduce block distortion.

Finishing the Cylinders
Once the sleeves have been installed, the inside of the cylinder can be finished to specifications. Getting the rings to seat and seal properly requires a finish that provides good support for the rings, retains oil and does not require a lengthy break-in period. For most late-model and performance engines, that means a plateau finish.
A plateau bore finish is what all types of rings eventually produce when they are fully seated, so the closer the bore can be prefinished to a plateau-like condition the less the rings and cylinders will wear as the engine breaks in, the better the rings will seal right from the start, and the longer the rings will last.
For moly rings, a two-step honing process can be used to achieve a plateau finish. First, hone with a conventional #280 grit silicon carbide vitrified abrasive. Then finish by briefly touching the bores with a #400 grit stone or giving them several strokes with an abrasive nylon honing tool or brush.
If the cylinders are honed with diamond stones, you can follow up with a finer grit diamond, a fine grit vitrified abrasive or a brush to finish the bores.
If you're not applying a plateau finish to the cylinders, honing with #220 grit silicon carbide stones works well with plain cast iron or chrome rings. Use #280 grit stones for moly-faced rings, or #320 to #400 grit stones for moly rings if the engine is being built for racing or performance.
After the cylinders have been honed, don't forget to scrub them out with warm soapy water and a brush to remove all honing and metallic debris. This is an often overlooked step that can ruin a new set of rings in a hurry.

Diesel Wet Liners
If you're rebuilding a diesel or industrial engine that has wet liners, interference fit is not a concern. Most such liners are a simple slip fit installation, and many are prefinished to specifications. Even so, you should pay close attention to the condition of the counterbores in the block so the liners are supported properly ? especially if the engine has been rebuilt before. If the counterbore that supports the liner flange is damaged or corroded, it will have to be remachined to support the liner properly.
Use the type of seal lubricant specified by the manufacturer. Using the wrong type of lubricant may cause the seal to swell, preventing the liner from fitting properly.
If the old liners have a heavy coating of lime or scale on the outside, the cooling jackets in the block as well as the rest of the cooling system should be cleaned. Anything that sticks to the outside of the liners can inhibit heat transfer.
Many late-model diesel engines require cylinder liners that are induction hardened, ductile iron or some other type of high quality wear-resistant iron alloy. Cheaper materials won't hold up and will likely result in rapid wear and premature failure. A good quality liner should easily last 500,000 miles or more in a Class 8 over-the-road truck.
Liner protrusion must also be correct for the head gasket to seal properly. If one cylinder liner sits higher than those in the adjacent cylinders, it can affect sealing.



Share This Article





Related articles:


The Benefits of Forced Induction (http://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-articles/the-benefits-of-forced-induction/)



- See more at: Installing Cylinder Sleeves | KnowYourParts (http://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-articles/installing-cylinder-sleeves/#sthash.XU5Era4g.dpuf)

[Jazzman]

UPDATE: When I went to China recently for work I must have killed a China-man without knowing.

I got my head checked by a engine builder, the verdict is both my block and head are.... I can't use the word of choice on this forum.

I'm shattered. EURO 3 16P motors are not easy to find and when you do they are far from cheap.

I guess i'm going down the path of a second hand engine. Disco 2 up to about $13,000 so far. What is it worth? Another $? on a engine. Caught between a rock and a hard place.

[simonmelb]

Sorry to hear your unlucky news! We were in a similar situation when our d2 needed a new transmission - do we spend $5k on a car thats only worth $10k?

As we're planning another big lap in a couple of years we've kept the car for now as it's too good to let go!

I'd be weighing up all your options including wrecking yours and buying a lower km one which are going for less than $15k for under 200k km.

Good luck!

[Jazzman]

Update on were i'm at. Pricing.

Rebuild kit including 0.020 oversize pistons $2000
Block re-bore and hone $250
Head 2nd hand replacement with new seals and valves or repair original head still pending approx $1200

Engine rebuild myself estimate $3500

Option 2

2nd hand motor between 160K kms - 240K kms. $2000 - $3000

I've gone for the rebuild option.

[discorevy]

Hi jazzman , not sure if rebuild kit comes with new hoses ,thermostat , water pump fan bearing etc... but check turbo , especially if it has been dusted. Hoses , how is the turbo air inlet hose? why was the original motor dusted?,are the big ends and mains standard or do you need a crank grind and oversize bearings .
These are questions to ask yourself as it may up your budget a bit, also worth checking auto trans oil pump bolts and replace convertor seal while the motor is out . clean , clean and pay special att to ring gaps , piston oil squirters....... everything really. good luck , keep us posted as to how you get on
cheers
Just out of interest who makes the eu3 oversize pistons?

[Jazzman]

Hi jazzman , not sure if rebuild kit comes with new hoses ,thermostat , water pump fan bearing etc... but check turbo , especially if it has been dusted. Hoses , how is the turbo air inlet hose? why was the original motor dusted?,are the big ends and mains standard or do you need a crank grind and oversize bearings .
These are questions to ask yourself as it may up your budget a bit, also worth checking auto trans oil pump bolts and replace convertor seal while the motor is out . clean , clean and pay special att to ring gaps , piston oil squirters....... everything really. good luck , keep us posted as to how you get on
cheers
Just out of interest who makes the eu3 oversize pistons?

Thanks for your help Discorevy,

The rebuild kit I was referring to was from the engine builder, i do need to check what it consists of, but he told me it had everything. I wouldn't have thought it has a thermostat and hoses. I expect it has seals, bearing, pistons and timing gears and chains.

I'll check the turbo and intake hose. The bearings have all still got the white metal on them which is a good sign, as far as I know. For this reason i'm assuming the crank is still round and OK. Also the squirters where difficult to remove I stripped the 4mm hex bolt on some of them, had to hammer a T27 torque bit into the last one to get it out, lucky it worked.

As far as I know Turner Engineering sell 0.020 Kolben Schmidt brand over size pistons. I read somewhere on there website, these pistons are for the late model TD5 and they don't have the early model ones but they can be used in early model TD5's if you do something else as well.

TD5 engine parts TD5 cylinder heads, pistons, bearings (http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/acatalog/TD5.html)

I'm not entirely sure who makes the ones in the kits the engine builder has quoted me, obviously i'll find out before purchasing anything.

[Jazzman]

Took the auto and TC out today. The front drive shaft has a buggered DC joint. AWESOME! I'm trying hard to be the optimist, if all this stuff fell apart half way up the Old Telegraph Track I would have been in trouble.

Just something else that needs to be fixed at more expense.

[Jazzman]

Just an update for anyone who is interested.

I got all the rebuild bits for the bottom end yesterday. The machinist is going to bore the block, after that i'll be spending a lot of time in the shed following RAVE's instructions reassembling my motor.

The head bits have been ordered and should be here next week. I've decided the engine builder / machinist can rework the head for me. It will cost more, but i just don't want to stuff it up.

So far up to $3750.

[Jazzman]

I've got my motor mostly together. Bottom end all done, head and timing cover on.

After all this i realized i had forgotten to put Loctie on the 3 bolts holding the timing chain guides in place. They are done up to the correct torque but have no lock tight. The timing sprocket does have Loctite.

My question here is, is it possible to remove the timing cover without removing the head? This way I can correct my mistake.

You are looking at $4700

[discorevy]

Looking good , if it was mine and I was 100% sure they were torqued I would leave it ( no doubt others will disagree) but for your peace of mind the answer is yes, when you replace timing cover put a smidgen of sealant on corners of timing cover where head gasket meets block

[Jazzman]

Looking good , if it was mine and I was 100% sure they were torqued I would leave it ( no doubt others will disagree) but for your peace of mind the answer is yes, when you replace timing cover put a smidgen of sealant on corners of timing cover where head gasket meets block

So there is enough movement in the stud on top of the timing cover that goes through the head, to maneuver it around the guiding dowels for the cover and around the crank.

[strangy]

Yes, but you may end up bending the stud a little. I'm assuming you have a spare drive sprocket on the crank nose for protection?
Otherwise you forgot something;)
And I'd probably leave it without loctite too if torqued up.

[discorevy]

Not enough thread to double nut it ?, even using thinner nuts and spanner , they are not usually tight once torque is released , should be able to lift stud enough to clear timing cover, again , only if you really want to

[Jazzman]

Yes, but you may end up bending the stud a little. I'm assuming you have a spare drive sprocket on the crank nose for protection?
Otherwise you forgot something;)
And I'd probably leave it without loctite too if torqued up.

I wondered if anyone would notice that. Call me paranoid but didn't want to put the crank shaft thread under pressure while turning the assembled motor over.

[Jazzman]

Not enough thread to double nut it ?, even using thinner nuts and spanner , they are not usually tight once torque is released , should be able to lift stud enough to clear timing cover, again , only if you really want to

Double nut worked a treat. In fact it was so easy to undo it was well worth it for the piece of mind.

Only trouble is I cracked the cover, I assume I did this by doing the bolt up too tight. Thought I had the correct torque setting but perhaps I didn't, a second hand timing cover fixed the problem.

By the way the late casting is much better than the early casting. But beggars can't be choosers. I'm considering having the original one welded, as they are extremely expensive new.

[Jazzman]

I didn't realise until now I never finished this thread. I stuffed up the assembly of the torque converted to the auto and stuffed that up too. I had the auto inspected and reassembled and the TC replaced with a rebuilt one stronger one, still a TD5 size unit though.

Car has now done 375,000 kms and is still going strong.