New Land Rover IIA 109 station wagon

[nickcundy]

Hi all,
I have recently purchased a 1971 series IIA 109 station wagon. Great vehicle. It has a 186S engine. Looking to slowly restore the vehicle over time. It is in good condition - the only rust affected area is minor in the driver footwell.

Current repairs completed/completing - new thermostat and upper cover, water hoses, plugs, electric fuel pump moved back to near the the fuel tank, new fuel line and hoses, filter, carby overhauled (currently being rebuilt).

I have thankfully managed to re-register the vehicle after being unregistered since 2005! I am very lucky not to have the headache of having the vehicle inspected. However I will methodically ensure brakes are all rebuild and roadworthy before I venture out for a trial run.

The carby was quite dirty and jets blocked up so I am having that rebuilt. After fixing any other issues and checking the head etc and any other potential issues I justified it as money well spent to have an expert overhaul the carby.

Would be great to hear from any they landrover owners with similar vehicles and any advice on embarking on a project car. Thanks in advance

Cheers,

Nick

[nickcundy]

Picture 2

[nickcundy]

Righto on to the brakes. The fella I got the car off had some spare parts, however I'm at odds end if they are in fact the right parts! See attached pics. Any help would be appreciated!!

[mick88]

Nice straight looking rig.
Are you sure it is a 186S motor as they were red engines and had a two barrel carburetor along with headers.
The 2850 (173) and 3300 (202) were blue.
I know that your engine could have been repainted blue and had another carby fitted.
Does it have an engine capacity size cast into the left hand side of the block behind the alternator.
The engine number will also reveal if it is a 186S.

Cheers, Mick.

[whitehillbilly64]

Nice pics,
I have a 186S inlet and manifold, with a WW11 carby ( 186s ) on a 186A motor.
Dnt think I have a 186S head. Can anyone tell me the serial head numbers ????
Have a look here at the carby type you have.
https://www.scribd.com/doc/68315221/4/Stromberg-Carburettor-Model-Numbers
Doesn't look like my WW11.

whitehillbillies

[whitehillbilly64]

My 186A motor.
Sorry pic did not attach/



whitehillbilly64

[whitehillbilly64]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/series-iii/92761d1429009130t-whats-do-motor-3.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/series-iii/92761d1429009130-whats-do-motor-3.jpg)

[nickcundy]

Hi all, yes solved the engine ID and running problems.

it is a 186 red motor. painted blue as suggested! I narrowed the problem to the carby (stromberg) so i had it rebuilt by a bloke here in adelaide. reinstalled and its running nicely.

we have now stripped the brake master, servo, clutch slave and master and in the process of refurbing/replacing as required. some attached pics.

next job is the doors and installing front seats..

doors are looking a little worse for wear - we will strip and re weld sections in as required. sounds like a tedious job! anyone done this before with success!??

front deluxe seats have been ordered. the car came with no seat rails etc so I'm on the hunt for some adjustable seat rails for the 3 seats... i have heard they are very expensive new? hopefully i can track down some from the wreckers or??

onwards.... cheers Nick. any feedback welcome

[harry]

nice car,
thanks for the pics, I have a 2a shorty.
the door tops do look a bit sick, I found it cheaper to buy new door tops from british off road, I think, they came bare and painted, just needed to swap over the bits and I bought new bailey channel for the windows to slide in.
I think perentie door tops are the same and both windows slide in those.

[gromit]

Probably not worth wasting time trying to repair the doortops, they tend to be a 'consumable' item.
Doortops are a lot cheaper out of the UK but freight adds considerably. OK if you are buying other parts as well.

320853 | Door Top, alloy clad, unglazed RH - Series 2/2A (http://www.paddockspares.com/320853-door-top-alloy-clad-unglazed-rh-series-2-2a.html)

Paddocks (or the many other suppliers) can also supply the window channel, glazing strips etc.

Colin

[nickcundy]

Thanks for the advice all. much appreciated. Yes the door tops seem to be far gone and it would be a mighty job tack welding (and burning holes) to get it back to satisfactory condition. I will however be welding new bottom section into the doors.

is it an easy task to un wrap the aluminium for this job? should i peel it all off or just the bottom half carefully? any tips on this area would be greatly appreciated.

some more pics. I have enjoyed looking around the forum at other peoples projects so I hope this is also of interest to others.

pics

- front seat box showing no rails - I'm on the hunt for these
- front dash - have covers for wipers etc. eventually get to tidying this up. I am not certain that the switch panel should be the car colour? were they meant to be black for this model/year?
- back seat - reupholster or replace depending on price. as you can see, previous owner has added some covering to stop rubbing when down.
- carby - very clean after an overhaul. works fantastically now.
- fuel tank emptied and flushed. Im sure the octane levels were at least half my age...
- front brakes - have stripped plate and reblasting. new cylinders, pads, springs, hoses. I have read some shocking experiences with these. I have built brakes before but hopefully i strike luck and have only a few problems along the way!!

Cheers,

Nick

[nickcundy]

front brakes...

[gromit]

Door bottoms being repaired here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powered-series-land-rovers/151959-isuzu-c240-powered-series-3-a-34.html#post2258453

De skinning is straightforward, I used a screwdriver and tried to bend the edge back as little as possible to get it off the frame.
Handy to measure the distance from the top of the door to the bottom edge that you're about to cut out, I wrote this on the frame so I wouldn't forget.

I re-folded the skin using a panel beating hammer & a sandbag.


Colin

[nickcundy]

Fantastic Gromit, thanks very much. I nearly picked up a set of adjustable seat rails for 15 pounds but missed out... bugger. the hunt continues. I have ordered the same seats as you have in the page previous on the link you sent. Off to work on the car. will post more pics this evening.

Cheers, Nick

[Dark61]

Mate - re the door top - I found Allfourx4.com cheaper than Paddocks


cheers,

[nickcundy]

Thanks Colin and Dark61. Here are some pics of door skin removal etc. Looking a little worse for wear. I am on the hunt for 2 shapes of U channel to weld in. I could buy a new door but it is in workable condition apart from the window channel rust.

Door skins were ok to take off. Are there any special tools that you recommend other than a wide flat crowbar!? took my time so I'm comfortable i can put them back on carefully and bend/soft mallet back into place.

The front doors will need bottom section repairs (thanks Colin for the link). The advice to replace the front door top sections was also great - they are both far too gone and there is better use of time than trying to repair...!

[nickcundy]

skins removed. will sandblast and re-assess

[alan48]

Hi ,
my rebuilt S1 109 has a Holden 179 red motor (fully rebuilt) and is a dream to drive now with 3.5 diff ratios and S11A box.Also fitted a rebuilt larger core radiator and now runs at around 70degrees so make sure your cooling system is good. Have not needed an electric fan.Also fitted parabolics so maybe an option IF your springs are past it. Your car will be a top machine when finished.

[nickcundy]

Hi Alan. Thanks very much for your comments. From preliminary investigations the gearbox was professionally rebuilt by a reputable shop and the oils were still in excellent condition. It has (like many others) sat in a shed for 10+ years. Thankfully this was not due to failure - rather time/lifestyle pressures.

The gearbox seals certainly could do with replacement. only a very minor weep. Any thoughts on this? i assume if i was to venture down this path of repair i would be best to just take the gearbox out and do a full and proper job...?

The engine has a new looking radiator and i know that it did run well/sufficient cooling. I have replaced hoses, housings, gaskets flushed radiator and muck out. Something to expect after such a long time sitting idle. Im sure the picture i have added would speak otherwise but after significant cleaning/flushing i can confidently say it is solid. I did opt for a cooler thermostat...

I have seen great installations of electric fans and it certainly would provide some security of temperature management.

Springs - they look ok so far. Im interested in the parabolic, however in the interests of maintaining a strict budget I have opted to take the springs off and have them reconditioned/new bushings etc for the time being. The previous owner kindly included a new pair of front shockers that have not been fitted.

Is there any way i could easily check if i have 4.7 or 3.5 diff ratios?

Thanks again for your comments. Cheers, Nick

[nickcundy]

front/side pics

[Dark61]

good pics Nick - thanks for taking the time to post them.


I'll be having a go at the doors on mine at some point - pressure of time meant I took the easy option of just buying a new top. Good to know that you're restoring where poss rather than replacing.
cheers,
D

[mick88]

Do you know the history of this vehicle?
Was it an ex SA Police vehicle?




Cheers, Mick.

[nickcundy]

Hi Mick,

Thanks for your interest.

Not sure of the history of the vehicle. I will follow this up in the coming weeks with a previous owner/s. It would be amazing to know the history so if anyone has seen it around before etc please let me know.

the details are as follows;

Vehicle Identification No. (VIN):
35200879G

Vehicle Model & Year:
2A 109 1971

Re old police car - do you have any information on this? Did they use these vehicles?

Cheers,

Nick

[nickcundy]

Sandblasted and ready for primer...

[gromit]

Nick,
What was the blast media ?
The reason I ask is that there are bushes in the pedal box that might not take kindly to abrasive particles.

Drift out the small pin at the end and press the shaft out to release the pedal. When it comes to reassembly buy some 1/8" x 1" roll pins to replace the original pins.

There should be a bolt at one end of the shaft. If you don't want to remove the pedals undo the bolt and either oil or grease (ideally find a grease nipple that fits) this will get some oil to the bushes & hopefully push out any abrasive particles.

Colin

[nickcundy]

Thanks Colin.

I went very lightly near/in the pedal box, but it was an ambitious/lazy way to go about it! It was sand grit so no doubt quite abrasive. Your thoughts on this?

Will definitely take your advice on this. Thanks very much - always appreciated.

Big order coming from john craddock - they keep emailing with delays etc.

I assume this is normal. Perhaps not all items are in and they are (thankfully) combining the shipping... I have a new servo and master cylinder/gaskets etc etc amongst other bits so a bit slow going with progress. Quite keen to get the car out for a test run.

Cheers,

Nick

[gromit]

Personally I would take it apart, good opportunity to clean the rust from the pivot shaft and also check the pivot where the master cylinder pushrods connect.
Once the small pin is removed it may be difficult to remove the shaft.

I had to make new pivot pins for some pedal boxes recently, you can see the wear in the picture below.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/1282.jpg (http://s1245.photobucket.com/user/cradley/media/Dormobile/DSCN3443_zpszrzyieve.jpg.html)


Colin

[nickcundy]

Thanks Colin, the rebuild process has begun on the pedals...

In the mean time. some more pics.

The front hubs have clearly been leaking crap everywhere over time. ball joints need a closer look. is there a common leak? The hubs previously had the shute upton freewheel hubs on. The previous owner used the 50/50 grease/oil mix!? I have since put them firmly in the bin and will put standard hubs on.

Another pic depicts the gap where the 6 cylinder engine exhaust previously exited through the wheel arch. Is there a part number for the right cover to fix this issue?

I have ensured that the front of the car is securely supported by axle stands if anyone is concerned. I also will be purchasing 2 additional stands and if they are of superior quality/support I will get 4.

Thanks again for everyones interest and comments. It is really helpful and very much appreciated.

Cheers,

Nick

[nickcundy]

replacement hubs...

[nickcundy]

More photos. Discovered that a gasket was missing next to swivel housing... remnants of silicone discovered as a previous sealing solution...

the middle row footwell base - the rivets holding the crossmembers - does anyone have a link to an explanation of these?

Cheers,

Nick

[JDNSW]

......
the middle row footwell base - the rivets holding the crossmembers - does anyone have a link to an explanation of these?

Cheers,

Nick

What sort of explanation do you need? - as far as I can see they are simple plain rivets - the top side will be the countersunk heads of the rivets.

John

[nickcundy]

Hi John - I haven't done my research on the rivets yet, I was just wondering how they were affixed. On the interior side of the car they are flush with the aluminium. I haven't ever seen this before so curious if there was a webpage that gave a thorough description etc etc.

More work on the car last night. We have tapped the entire chassis (as much as car be accessed) and no structural rust present. It seems that the white paint around the front area of the chassis has been added by a previous owner. Perhaps when the holden was put in. Suspect the transmission was also rebuilt/refitted at this stage.

Last picture shows a small rust hole just inside the door seal rail.

Removal of all the soundproofing adhesive is a slow process but almost done.

Still on the hunt for adjustable seat rails/square seat holders... Will try a few wreckers this weekend.

Cheers,

Nick

[JDNSW]

Hi John - I haven't done my research on the rivets yet, I was just wondering how they were affixed. On the interior side of the car they are flush with the aluminium. I haven't ever seen this before so curious if there was a webpage that gave a thorough description etc etc.

.........
Cheers,

Nick

The rivets have a countersunk head like a countersunk screw, and a corresponding countersunk hole drilled in the aluminium floor. The rivet was inserted from that side, and the other end expanded using a 'set' or piece of steel with a domed hollow in it. Pressure almost certainly applied with a press during manufacture, but repairs would use a hammer.

John

[nickcundy]

Thanks very much John, very helpful.

Have you heard of the forbyn disk brake conversion? I have stumbled across it and wondering if anyone has any reviews etc?

cheers,

Nick

[JDNSW]

Some people have talked about disc brake conversions, not sure about that. One of the members here is setting up to manufacture conversions using what seems to be a better method. A search should find it, I think it is in the Series 3 forum, but all Series brakes are essentially interchangeable - if it fits Series 3 it will fit Series 2a, although you will have to specify which wheel studs you have. (Landrovers up to Series 2a used 9/16"BSF studs, very late Series 2a, Series 3, RR classic, Disco 1, 90/110 and Defender up to current production use M20.)

John

[gromit]

Several companies offer disc brake conversions but if you can buy a locally produced one that has been 'engineered' you will save a lot of expense over getting one engineered yourself.

Rivetting shown here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDbTUt3OG9s
You can get rivets on Ebay bits4landys | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/bits4landys/m.html?item=221049829625&hash=item337798b8f9&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562)


Colin

[nickcundy]

Thanks Colin.

Some more progress photos. A big issue we are battling with is how extensive we want to restore the vehicle... It is definitely an addictive hobby and the two nights a week a mate and I meet to work on the vehicle are becoming very late...and bloody great fun!

As the pictures suggest, seat box out. The many holes on top are from a few random sets of seats the previous owner had attached. I have found a seat box complete with seat rails and seats in excellent condition. It is from a 2a 109 ute 1960 model.

The old seat box will make its way onto gumtree after the new one is fitted.

Wire brushing and some protective primer on areas.

I have 6 wheels (272309) 5.5inch with tyres on the way. will blast and paint.

I have spoken to a paint shop in adelaide about potentially mixing up some paint (marine blue) and the correct white for the wheels. Its Dupont paint isn't it? I have found some Dupont paint codes but if anyone is able to confirm I'm on the right track that would be much appreciated.

I suppose we are aiming to repair any surface rust areas and repaint at the moment, before contemplating a full respray...

** The vehicles I have found at the wreckers;
- 109 2a 1960 model
- series 1 in reasonably good condition.
If anyone would like some pictures of these for parts or their location PM me.

Cheers and thanks for everyones interest.

Nick

[nickcundy]

Another question...

what is the bracket attached to the chassis at the bottom of the photo? rounded half circle

[JDNSW]

Another question...

what is the bracket attached to the chassis at the bottom of the photo? rounded half circle

Sorry, can't see anything in that picture fitting the description.

John

[Homestar]

The 2 brackets welded/screwed to the top of the chassis rail just back from the hand brake lever? If so, then my best guess would be a mount for a fuel pump that is no longer there. My Series 3'doesnt have them there and was pretty original, so I'm guessing they were added by a previous owner?

Could be wrong though.

[nickcundy]

Thanks Bacicat - that sounds about right.

John - as Bacicat described - the two welded on brackets on chassis in front/ to the left of the handbrake lever

Nick

[nickcundy]

more progress

- seat box with adjustable drivers seat picked off a wrecker. In excellent condition. will strip, repaint. seat rails will be blasted and resprayed black. New deluxe seats have also arrived so its an exciting prospect of having it all repaired and that job finished.

- wheel from wrecker placed on front right (to see how it looks!). 4 matching wheels are on way with newish tyres. This wheel will be the spare.

- stripped from bumper bar. front LR badge replaced.

- rebuilding clutch and brake with replacement parts.

We are still working out how to repair (if possible) the second row doors. The window channel steel is badly rusted along with lower section door rust. Could fabricate and re weld in new section but it would also require remaking the drain channels etc. What are your thoughts? worth it or get new frames?

Cheers,

Nick

[nickcundy]

Tempted to grab these from another vehicle and rebuild. I have ditched the Shute Upton freewheel hubs as the nylon washers were buggered and no luck finding replacement parts.

I am aware of rebuild kits for avm.. Are the particular ones recognisable to anyone? Worth the effort of rebuild? No idea of the insides, however i was able to turn the lock/unlock.

Cheers,

nick

[gromit]

We are still working out how to repair (if possible) the second row doors. The window channel steel is badly rusted along with lower section door rust. Could fabricate and re weld in new section but it would also require remaking the drain channels etc. What are your thoughts? worth it or get new frames?

Cheers,

Nick

Good second row doors are scarce, I'm about to collect some rusty rear doors as potential spares for my IIa Dormobile.

I did find a pair of good ones some years back, the car was full of rat poo and it was a bit of a mess but all 4 doors were good. The guy wouldn't sell just the doors but I'll have to see if I still have his number.

Series III doors are available Series 3 Second Row Door Unglazed - RH (http://www.paddockspares.com/series-3-second-row-door-unglazed-rh.html?___SID=U)
Not sure of all the differences. Hinges are different & anti-burst doorlocks on SIII.
Maybe someone makes SII & IIa rear passenger doors. Just looked SP Land Rover panels and it's in the drop down menu but nothing comes up, might be worth contacting them SP landrovers LTD - Body panel Specialists (http://www.sp-4x4.com/)

Found someone.....http://www.landrover-bitz.co.uk/products.php?cat=Series2 no prices though.


Colin

[JDNSW]

.......

Series III doors are available Series 3 Second Row Door Unglazed - RH (http://www.paddockspares.com/series-3-second-row-door-unglazed-rh.html?___SID=U)
Not sure of all the differences. Hinges are different & anti-burst doorlocks on SIII.
......

Colin

Series 3 doors will fit (dimensions are identical from Series 2 right up to current Defender), but the part number is different, so there are some differences. I do not think these will be critical, but will reflect differences such as the securing of the trim.

John

[pk.hoarder]

Gday Nick looks like a nice car. If you are still wondering about the diff ratio you could put the trans in neutral while its jacked up and turn a road wheel, counting the tailshaft revolutions as you go.
Thanks for all the photos and progress reports!

Sent from my B1-730 using AULRO mobile app

[nickcundy]

Update:

Seat box from wreckers stripped taken back to bare aluminium. Etch Primed.

Still waiting for wheels to arrive from QLD.

Test fitting of new seats. As pictures illustrate, still need to remove adhesive glue from interior. The seat back bar is new. It cost an arm&leg!

Paint...
I have gone around to quite a few auto paint shops about getting paint. Marine Blue LRC006 is the code (i think!). The shop found the code through the code 10350. An ancient paint code book had them listed as the same (006/10350) - complete with exact measurements of blending!

So i got two samples and dotted on sections of car. doesn't match well. The Samples are far to blue/dark thinking of just taking a door skin or panel to match. The colour codes were so far off it would only be a workable paint solution to paint everything.

At this stage we are not looking at a full respray, just a tidy up - enough to enjoy the car on a few trips before reassessing. The shop can make up few rattle cans of the paint for this in acrylic. As far as i have researched this is the paint type they would have used? I would like to avoid enamel if possible. they also offered 2pac as a alternative to acrylic, however is slightly more $$. Thoughts?

Thanks for the tips everyone. Its a great help. We cant wait to finish off the box and seats. Will bead blast and spray the seat rails black this week.

[gromit]

Nick,
There have been a few discussions about paint codes on the forum.
It seems that pigments have changed over the years and therefore it's often difficult to match using the original code.
Taking in a sample is the best bet, something that hasn't been in direct sunlight or got dirty over the years.

A paint shop I tried refused to mix paint to a code, they used to have so many people returning with paint that was 'incorrect' so they made the decision that unless it was a complete respray they would only match a sample.

Interested to hear why you are avoiding enamel.
I've used acrylic and it doesn't give the high gloss of enamel without some hard work. Mind you, I don't think a Land Rover in high gloss looks right.


Colin

[JDNSW]

Nick,
....
Taking in a sample is the best bet, something that hasn't been in direct sunlight or got dirty over the years.
......
Colin

A good one is often the cover for the hole for the LH handbrake, especially if it is painted on the inside.

John

[nickcundy]

Thanks Colin & John. John I did in fact take that to the painter! Colin - I was under the impression that acrylic was the original paint used? I have been told this by an old Land Rover mechanic from Malta and a Brit. Both of course could be wrong! Also, were the Aus cars painted here before assembly? I am confused that I wasn't able to come up with a paint code (especially the marine blue 006). Even other non sun affected areas seemed way off. It's quite an original vehicle and hasn't been ripped to pieces etc that would indicate a re spray at some point in its history.

[JDNSW]

My 110 is certainly acrylic, but early Landrovers used Duco (nitrocellulose), and I do not know when the change was made - I suspect around the time your car was made. Which probably does not help!

Australian assembled Landrovers must have been painted locally, since at least some panels were made here.

John

[nickcundy]

9476094761947629476394764

Ok,

Paint - acrylic Lacquer. The shop did a fantastic job matching. I took in some interior parts and the exterior door skins and it is perfect to our eyes.

I have 2 litres of the paint in tin form. After discussion, I didn't want to outlay the cost of compressor etc just yet for the touch ups and minor work. Nor did I want to go down the expensive spray can path. A spray can only holds 100ml of paint. He did mention that some people (enthusiasts like us) do in fact re spray whole cars with rattle cans!!!

So I have the next best compromise. This cost $18. I mix it in a ratio with thinner and the first test run went as well as a spray can does. Easy to clean and the propellant canisters are dirt cheap.

Also coated some of the badges that came with the vehicle. Not sure wether to go with the Solihull or LR Aus badges? You can also see I picked up a GB sticker for $3

[nickcundy]

John, the current car we think is the nitrocellulose. Old fella at the paint shop said no problem going over with the new paint.

[nickcundy]

94766

Badges

[nickcundy]

9481894819

Sandblasted and ready to prime

[nickcundy]

9482094821

Garry doing what he does best. Stripping ready for painting. Note - the second picture shows how much red dust/dirt was on that single panel!

[nickcundy]

9482694828

Etch priming

[nickcundy]

Righto, while the paint is drying (albeit slowly in sub artic South Australia) we are tackling the transmission brake. It seems the mechanic actuation of the hand lever is in working order, however the brake cyclinder doesn't push the pads (I.e it's stuffed!). Some pics attached. I'm curious about the gun metal colour of the handle? Does it look like a foreign set up to anyone? Or is it just a different paint job compared to the standard black..

Thanks in advance for any help.

Nick

948319483294833

[nickcundy]

94834

Transmission stamp number. I assume this means I have the right series 2 trans on the vehicle.

94835

Now detaching the back prop bolts. Well a buff, shine and new paint job. Also will assist with the overhaul of the trans brake during removal. If there's any hot tips in doing the shaft and or trans brake - let me know!

[nickcundy]

94838948399484094841

More pics

[JDNSW]

Righto, while the paint is drying (albeit slowly in sub artic South Australia) we are tackling the transmission brake. It seems the mechanic actuation of the hand lever is in working order, however the brake cyclinder doesn't push the pads (I.e it's stuffed!). Some pics attached. I'm curious about the gun metal colour of the handle? Does it look like a foreign set up to anyone? Or is it just a different paint job compared to the standard black..

Thanks in advance for any help.

Nick


The handbrake lever looks black in the picture and also looks like a standard one.

The "cylinder" is actually a wedge and roller expander, and there is little that can go wrong with them (unless assembled without the rollers or really severe wear). More likely is it is rusted solid or the linkage is not adjusted so as to pull it far enough to move the shoes. One point to watch is the possibility that the pivot mount for the bell crank is either loose or bent, resulting in lost motion.

Also in the picture I don't see the return spring - not sure what effect it being missing will have, although it could result in severe wear of the expander due to continual movement.

I would disassemble and examine the expander before ordering parts. Note that handbrake details changed during production, and some parts need the chassis number - but even then the assembly may have been changed after manufacture.

John

[nickcundy]

94974

Replacement window channel. Ready to be welded in.

Nick

[nickcundy]

9498294983

[ATTACH]94984[/ATTACH.

Ready for to be tacked in.

[nickcundy]

94985

94987

Thoroughly recommend for small spray jobs

[nickcundy]

Transmission brake pulled apart. Thanks John for the advice. It was very jammed but careful pushing and pulling with crc got it functioning. Pics attached. Is it possible that the wedge and roller can be too worn? How much movement is a wedge meant to extend when lever is pulled?

9499394994


Leaky! This seal needs to be replaced I think!? Sikaflex was evident all around.

949959499694997

[JDNSW]

I have never measured how much they expand the shoes, but it only needs to be a small amount - the adjuster takes almost all the free play. From what I can see in the picture it looks OK. As long as the rollers have no flats on them and the wedge has not got grooves in it, the expander will be OK. Note that there are two types of expander, I think from your picture yours is the later type. The plungers need to be correctly assembled (see manual) - same applies to the adjuster.

As you have noticed, you should have drained the transfer case before disassembly! If you remove the brake backing plate you will find there is a slot designed to allow oil leaking through the seal to not contaminate the brake. Unfortunately, it is often blocked!

John

[nickcundy]

Thanks John much appreciated. Looks like they will do tho job. Is there a lubricant/grease that you would reassemble with? Obviously don't want to extending/seeping out and onto pads etc!

Some more spraying.
Plenty of etch primer underneath all panels/parts.

Cheers, Nick

95065 950669506795068

[gromit]

Thanks John much appreciated. Looks like they will do tho job. Is there a lubricant/grease that you would reassemble with?

A high melting point grease will do the job.

Colin

[JDNSW]

As Colin says. It is not critical, needs to have just enough grease to keep the water out and not get on the linings.

John

[nickcundy]

Colour match. It's as good as I think it will get
95193

Seat box coming together
95194


95195

9519695197

[nickcundy]

95230

Seat box and seats almost complete. Leather straps will be added when fixed to vehicle.

[nickcundy]

9524095241952429524395244

Door repairs. New window channel. Will do each door if it is needed. Then galv dip. Not sure how we will replicate the drip channel to the hole that exits through the door skin. Will have to be either very crafty with our mig or settle for another option.

Brake pedal/booster overhaul complete.

Repairs to footwell are also on the list. Think it's 2mm plate? Anyone know if the original and replacement foot wells were different thickness? This could help identify if a footwell has been replaced in the past.

Cheers all. This hobby is definitely an obsession!

[nicholasjnr]

What do you have planned for the vehicle?

[nickcundy]

Back at the Landy after a few months away working..

Nicholas, plan is to continue restoration and enjoy the car! few big trips planned around south australia.

In Terms of the History of the Vehicle - we noticed "Wilcannia District Hospital" on both front door panels... Hooray! Investigation has begun to track this down. So far the Wilcannia Historical Society is uncontactable. Does anyone have any contacts that may assist? It would be great to eventually replace the writing on the side panels and perhaps a trip up to Wilcannia.

current progress:

- Rims bead blasted and powder coated
- tyres (235/85/16) Toyo ATII to be fitted with tubes
- transmission brake overhauled.
- front ball joints ad tie rods due to be overhauled in the coming weeks
- front chassis repairs required! any tips would be great

Can anyone recommend a preferred parts source in the current exchange rate/cost of shipping? Adelaide is a bit thin on local parts so I'm interested to hear a few opinions of where people go or order from...

cheers,

Nick

[nickcundy]

Pics

[pk.hoarder]

Gday Nick
I've enjoyed following this story and was wondering how it was going.

I ordered some parts from Paddock in the UK a year or so back. Service was good, but I am pretty sure some of the parts are aftermarket and I may have problems later if the quality isn't up to scratch. At the time I took the chance, as good brand name parts were either not available or 3x the cost. Freight was not cheap, I had them use TNT economy, it was very fast, reliable and I could track its progress though.

I had a few emails back and forth with them before placing the order as their website couldn't calculate freight to Australia.

Overall happy and would use them again, but only when I need enough things to make the freight worthwhile. I chucked in a few small items with the parts I needed (D1 indicator switch was the catalyst I recall), IIA gear knobs, pedal rubbers etc. For single items, it may be as cheap to use an Australian reseller though due to freight premium.

Cheers
Paul.

Sent from my B1-730 using AULRO mobile app

[nickcundy]

Thanks Paul, I've tracked down land rovers.com.au - a mechanic/Land Rover fanatic in country vic has used them for parts and put me on to them. For all the hassle of shipping from UK I thought I'd give this a go. Thanks for sharing your advice though.

Alright, rims have been powder coated magnolia. Really happy with the colour and quality. Il take additional photos when all the tyres are mounted to give you all a better indication (the bright lights in the shop weren't exactly conducive to a good shot).

Tyres are currently being fitted (235/85/16) with new tubes/valves.

I fear that I may be replacing / rechroming the ball joints. There is some pitting and although it is another expensive job - do it once, do it right?!

If you are after a good powder coater in Adelaide - I used central powder coaters in Keswick. Les is a great bloke. Cost $55 per rim which included blasting.

Cheers,

Nick 101838101839101840

[nickcundy]

101905101906

[nickcundy]

101909

[Pickles2]

G'Day Mr Nickcundy.
Just read this thread from start to finish. You're going to end up with a great vehicle.
One question,...What is the significance of the Porsche Logo on the trailer in post 2?!
Pickles.

[nickcundy]

Pickles, thanks for your kind words. Very much appreciated. This mornings jobs are to clean up the front hubs etc, strip the outer of the brake drums and respray black. A greasy start this morning removing rusty ball joints! The significance of the logo - we had nowhere to store the car so it was kindly stored in a shared storage area. So I don't know anything about it.

Im sure they are nice to drive, but I'd rather be driving a old landrover. *nor could I afford such a car!

[mick88]

Hi Mick,

Thanks for your interest.

Not sure of the history of the vehicle. I will follow this up in the coming weeks with a previous owner/s. It would be amazing to know the history so if anyone has seen it around before etc please let me know.

the details are as follows;

Vehicle Identification No. (VIN):
35200879G

Vehicle Model & Year:
2A 109 1971

Re old police car - do you have any information on this? Did they use these vehicles?

Cheers,

Nick


Howdy Nick,
yes the SA Police used Land Rovers at the out back locations such as Marree, Oodnadatta, Coober Pedy etc. They had wagons and pick-ups and from my memory were grey in colour, very similar to yours. I think some were a beige like colour too.
Digger on here may be able to help you out with some photo's.


Sorry about taking so long to reply.


Cheers, Mick.

[nickcundy]

Thanks Mick!
To add confusion - we found faint lettering on the sides of both front doors - "Wilcannia District Hospital". Of course there exists the possibility that these doors were taken from a parts vehicle but front colour matches of other panel parts it seems unlikely. The other notable addition to the vehicle that may indicate it's original use - brackets on either side of the vehicle that would seem to allow a bar to cross the roof. Perhaps to hold a flashing beacon or sirens? The investigation continues! Thank you and everyone for their input and please do comment with any queries/questions or any advice.
Cheers,

Nick

[nickcundy]

Hi all, stuck for a part number - can anyone help out? It's the rubber clutch access grommet

102520

[JDNSW]

Hi all, stuck for a part number - can anyone help out? It's the rubber clutch access grommet

102520

That page is for the One Ton - there are no One Tons in Australia as far as I know, and I thought yours was a wagon anyway, that were not made in station wagons.

I think the page you want is 1G 02, and the P/N is 232604

John

[nickcundy]

Thanks John. All ordered! Knocked up a new work bench so busily preparing bits

Cheers,

Nick

[nickcundy]

Bit of a bugger. Ordered new track rod ends. I was particularly cautious to order the correct ones (I have read many posts on this!). Even after calling craddocks on Skype and specifically asking for the cotter pin/ threat starting after taper type etc track rod ends... They stilled stuffed it up. Disappointing so I will sort out a return and perhaps just get the right ones in Aus. Some more progress so more photos to come. Any particular paste recommended when threading in track rod ends? I've heard copper paste?

103044103045103046

[JDNSW]

....... Disappointing so I will sort out a return and perhaps just get the right ones in Aus. ......

I got some of the right ones from All Four X 4 in Newcastle, but I expect others can help as well

Any particular paste recommended when threading in track rod ends? I've heard copper paste?
......

I think any anti-seize compound will work pretty much the same. I use a nickel based one, but you use so little of it that having got one tub, it lasts so long you really never get to try anything else. And I use this one because I picked it up cheap at a clearing sale, years ago!

John

[nickcundy]

Thanks John, ordered and on the way. More pics

[nickcundy]

Few pics to update

- the pic with the rubber seal - seal came in the swivel kit (britpart). I assume this isn't used for to replace the wornish one you can see in the photo

[nickcundy]

So after a long day I have myself confused. Any help to fix my brain freeze would be kindly appreciated!

I was under the impression from the books/diagrams that I needed a half shaft distance piece slotted in before bedding in the half shaft bearing.

The photos I have attached show the old swivels (furthest away), and the new ones. I haven't fully pressed in the bearing shown in the photo. The old swivels show no sign of a distance piece...?

So the questions are;
- am I missing two distance pieces!?
- the half shaft bearing is recessed in slightly? By how much?

Thanks in advance for any help!!

Nick

[russellrovers]

So after a long day I have myself confused. Any help to fix my brain freeze would be kindly appreciated!

I was under the impression from the books/diagrams that I needed a half shaft distance piece slotted in before bedding in the half shaft bearing.

The photos I have attached show the old swivels (furthest away), and the new ones. I haven't fully pressed in the bearing shown in the photo. The old swivels show no sign of a distance piece...?

So the questions are;
- am I missing two distance pieces!?
- the half shaft bearing is recessed in slightly? By how much?

Thanks in advance for any help!!

Nickhi nick i have a new one here part no 320902 if thathelps jim

[nickcundy]

hi nick i have a new one here part no 320902 if thathelps jim


Thanks Russell, I assume this means I need a distance piece before the bearing!?

Nick

[nickcundy]

More pics from this evening in the shed. Generous use of anti-seize after a prolonged (2 week) effort to remove the previous track rod ends...

[nickcundy]

Front brake drums primed...

[nickcundy]

Battery tray welded up and primed. It was previously in the seat box, however there is remnants of a battery tray in the engine bay.

I have accounted enough room for 2 large batteries. A crank and a deep cycle LA to run a fridge etc on the "planned" trips...

[nickcundy]

It has been a very busy few days. Every spare minute spent preparing the final "get the car on the road" deadline by the 27th before heading away. Fired up first time!! Mostly due to the rebuilt carby. It had a leak in the float amongst some other issues. Everything went really well and all through the gears were good. Brakes - very good. The vacuum bleeder took all of 10 minutes after I had set the pad adjusters on each drum. The vacuum is from the air compressor. No doors - still welding up and finalising. TBC

It is a great feeling driving the car after the many hours spent learning and fiddling with the Landy.

[JDNSW]

Battery tray welded up and primed. It was previously in the seat box, however there is remnants of a battery tray in the engine bay.

I have accounted enough room for 2 large batteries. A crank and a deep cycle LA to run a fridge etc on the "planned" trips...

Series 2 and early Series 2a diesels had two very large six volt batteries, one under the seat, one in the engine bay. You may have the remains of this setup.

John

[nickcundy]

Progress...

[nickcundy]

After some delay we are back at it. Life takes priority sometimes!

Previous owner had "fiddled" with rear hubs. I was keen to check it and overhaul due to some play in the bearing preload. The rear passenger side brake cylinder is also leaking so convenient to get both sides done.

Backing plates and drums to be blasted and repainted. Backing plates had the usual build up of thick grime.

Some strange welds on the back - see photo...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/54.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/55.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/56.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/57.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/58.jpg

[nickcundy]

There is a gasket in there. I just wire brushed and painted the areas that were going to be hard to reach once the brake/hubs are back on.

Off to grit blast the drum outer and backing plate. Then primed and coated black

Nick

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/50.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/51.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/52.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/53.jpg

[nickcundy]

Sandblasted and primed

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/25.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/26.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/27.jpg

[nickcundy]

Other side.
This side was leaking. The thread was stripped inside the cylinder. I have bearmach replacement cylinders for both sides

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/21.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/22.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/23.jpg

[nickcundy]

*Note: I had 1200kg jack stands either side of the axle - just had the red jack as extra security. Can never be too careful under cars...

[gromit]

When you paint the backplates try and get a paint that's brake fluid resistant.

You can get a 'caliper paint' from SuperCheap. It says something like 'brake dust resistant' on the can (?) but it will resist leaks when bleeding etc.
It's available in Red, Blue, Yellow and if you look at the back of the cabinet you might find Black (not often used by the boy racers).

You may find that the primer you've used on the drums cooks off when you use the brakes seriously. I'm derusting, phosphating and then spraying with caliper paint which is high temperature and it seems to hold up OK.


Colin

[nickcundy]

Thanks Colin will do.

I have sanded back the steering wheel that was sitting in the rear of the vehicle. I assume it is the original? And correct for the period LR I have? If it is - what would be the best paint?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/978.jpg

[digger]

Not sure how I have missed this thread.. Just read it all the way through, excellent! I assume we will see it at Melrose for the SA Land Rover Register show? ( don't need to be a member)

SA Police had very few 109 station wagons, most were 2 door with a changed back door set up making a cage in the back. Almost all had bonnet mount spare and a safari roof. As a Govt vehicle which I assume yours was I think a station wagon for a hospital is logical.. I assume they had clinic runs etc in the area at the time? Keep up the good work!

[gromit]

Thanks Colin will do.

I have sanded back the steering wheel that was sitting in the rear of the vehicle. I assume it is the original? And correct for the period LR I have? If it is - what would be the best paint?



I used a plastic bumper paint.
Not sure this is really needed because it's a stable material and not flexible but a plastic primer might be the go to adhere to the material it's made from.

Just noticed that caliper paint is on special at SuperCheap, 2 for $25


Colin

[nickcundy]

Progress...

I was 2 inches short on brake tube - thankfully Power brakes in adelaide gave me a new section for free!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/797.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/798.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/799.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/800.jpg

[nickcundy]

Steering wheel. Before and after...


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/735.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/736.jpg

[Dark61]

very nice Mate - what paint did you use and how does it feel on the mits?
cheers,
D

[nickcundy]

very nice Mate - what paint did you use and how does it feel on the mits?

cheers,

D



White knight gloss black from Bunnings. I was concerned that it might get sticky etc but it's had some time out in the sun etc and it seems fine. Chrome spray can for the horn outer.

Cheers,

Nick

[nickcundy]

Righto, wonder if anyone can work this one out?

The car didn't come with a rear bar for the front seats. Ordered a new one. Fitted it and it hits the side of the driver and passenger seat.

I could of course cut and re weld to so it does fit but have I mounted it wrong etc?

I've also emailed craddocks to investigate.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/560.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/561.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/562.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/563.jpg

[nickcundy]

I've also found this picture - I believe this is the shape it should be? https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/559.jpg

[JDNSW]

Should have said you were looking for one - i have one somewhere, I'm pretty sure.

John

[nickcundy]

Bugger! I'd love it if I'd still available John? My parts shop has an old series 2 in their yard and I went and investigated. What I need I think!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/527.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/528.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/529.jpg

[JDNSW]

I'm away from home at the moment, so I won't be able to look for it until after Christmas, and we will see then.

John

[nickcundy]

I'm away from home at the moment, so I won't be able to look for it until after Christmas, and we will see then.

John



Thank you very much John

[nickcundy]

Front propshaft out. Cleaned and primed Discovered that I have a Diff Pinion Seal to replace. Ordered 2

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/440.jpg

[gromit]

The car didn't come with a rear bar for the front seats. Ordered a new one. Fitted it and it hits the side of the driver and passenger seat.





Nick,
I parted out a LWB wagon recently.
Someone was going to buy the front seat bar but then changed their mind so if John doesn't find one let me know. It'll be a bugger to wrap up for posting though !

Colin

[Don 130]

[QUOTE=nickcundy;2465696]Bit of a bugger. Ordered new track rod ends. I was particularly cautious to order the correct ones (I have read many posts on this!). Even after calling craddocks on Skype and specifically asking for the cotter pin/ threat starting after taper type etc track rod ends... They stilled stuffed it up. Disappointing so I will sort out a return and perhaps just get the right ones in Aus.

Craddocks should send you what you ordered and forget the return, as the freight cost is too high. I had a similar issue with a clutch kit from UK. (different merchant). They sent me confirmation of the Kit I'd ordered, then sent a different brand. I stood firm on what I'd ordered, and they sent it, and abandoned the wrong branded one.
Don.

[Don 130]

Whoops!, double post.
Don.

[nickcundy]

Nick,
I parted out a LWB wagon recently.
Someone was going to buy the front seat bar but then changed their mind so if John doesn't find one let me know. It'll be a bugger to wrap up for posting though !

Colin



Colin,

Thank you very much. I'm happy with your part or Johns - whatever is easy. I've used a website called "truckit" with success in the past moving landrover rims etc so I can do the legwork on this if this helps

[nickcundy]

[QUOTE=nickcundy;2465696]Bit of a bugger. Ordered new track rod ends. I was particularly cautious to order the correct ones (I have read many posts on this!). Even after calling craddocks on Skype and specifically asking for the cotter pin/ threat starting after taper type etc track rod ends... They stilled stuffed it up. Disappointing so I will sort out a return and perhaps just get the right ones in Aus.



Craddocks should send you what you ordered and forget the return, as the freight cost is too high. I had a similar issue with a clutch kit from UK. (different merchant). They sent me confirmation of the Kit I'd ordered, then sent a different brand. I stood firm on what I'd ordered, and they sent it, and abandoned the wrong branded one.

Don.



Thanks Don,

I got a response - generic as expected. Explaining that it was the "closest to the original etc..."
Quite interesting given that I also purchased a new set of deluxe seats and it's impossible to use either with a improper fitting seat bar!

The keyboard warrior continues...! Thank you for your support

[nickcundy]

I stumbled upon a landrover grave yard. Was on a fishing trip last week near a few small islands off SA and they had some wrecks (and a mint condition s3 with only 6380mile on the clock...). Anyway I grabbed two of these with the intention to clean up and use one. The indicator on the car currently looks super cheap-ish https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/218.jpg

[nickcundy]

Grabbed a second hand compressor from an GraysOnline auction. Thought it was buggered but after a clean up - ended up just being a sticky pressure valve. Works great! This is the acrylic paint I got matched a while ago. Mixed with 50/50 thinners to paint. It's a nice little spray gun - should be perfect for also touching up the dashboard etc. pics are of the door frames.

Nick https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/151.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/12/152.jpg

[nickcundy]

https://vimeo.com/197369668

My car mate is yet to master the double clutch

[nickcundy]

Touch ups

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/1025.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/1026.jpg

[nickcundy]

Indicator in and working well! https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/784.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/785.jpg

[nickcundy]

Well it's been a while but some great progress.

Colin has very kindly sent his rear seat bar. Fitted perfectly and has solved many a headache for me. Thank you very much Colin. I arranged through a service called "truckit" you can search on google. It basically connects you through to logistics co's who managed to sort out $40 postage and didn't require the bar to be wrapped etc. door to door.

Next dilemma I had was the dizzy. Would t start on Saturday afternoon. After considerable frustration I found a vague contact on google for distributor repair - A legend called David! What he doesn't know about distributors is quite evidently not worth knowing. David replaced the points, set the dwell, checked the vacuum (working perfectly despite the crud molded on the side) and went over the whole unit. This was all done same Saturday afternoon at his home workshop to the tune of $20. I clearly caught him at a generous time... he even threw in a new cap and rotor. He's on the hunt for a new vacuum to improve the aesthetics of the current one.

I have completed the re-wiring of rear tail lights, brake etc. I ran trailer 7 core in conduit in the same chassis rail as the old cable. I then ran an earth from the chassis up each side. I opted to make all connections inside the vehicle behind the alu corner bracket. Easier to diagnose and it won't cop the water/grit etc. additional leads are ready for a trailer plug to be hooked up.

New number plate - swapped over so I could go for a smaller plate. Currently still waiting but the change in "style" has allowed me to order one that is 300mm wide compared to 370mm wide. 300mm wide will allow it to sit underneath the illumination light and not protrude out the side of the car or obstruct the rear door.

Next job will be to take out the alternator and have it serviced. It is currently only producing 13.3v - it used to do 13.9... all wiring has been checked and unfortunately isn't the cause of problem.

I can get it overhauled and put out 85amps and 13.9...

Still waiting on door hinge kits so they do look badly out of alignment currently and also need to fit rubbers bits it's great to be registered...insured.... and driving. Brakes working too!

Gearbox - need advice here. It goes in 1st, 3rd and 4th without a problem. 2nd gear about 30% of the time. It's a crunch or a jitter the other 70% of the time. What could this be? It hasn't been driven for 10-15 years so is it a spring or alike that is not working as it should or bigger issues?

Cheers,

Nickhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/49.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/50.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/51.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/52.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/53.jpg

[nickcundy]

Side view

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/47.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/48.jpg

[nickcundy]

Righto. So I have put the new alternator in and it's got me in a right pickle about how I should wire it up. The previous setup (pictures attached) don't make much sense to me... two wires ran from the alternator to the two next to the regulator...

I'm under the guesstimation that I just need to take the red wire that I have attached to the new alternator to the red on the starter...

But.. do I need to connect a wire to the wires next to the regulator? Did this somehow allow the function of the "charge" light on the dashboard?

Apologies for my amateur description and ability - wiring & electrical is a technical area unforgiving of mistakes!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/901.jpg

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[nickcundy]

After a thoughtful morning - I have discovered that B+ on the alternator can connect to the positive lead connection on the starter. There is a spade connection called D+ - this connect to the thinner cable (I think) that goes to the warning light on the dash. Alternator earthed out to chassis/engine via attaching bolts.

I'm not sure what the two thicker cables next to the regulator do?

Perhaps for unregulated voltage from the previous engine setup? Still confused as to how that worked with the old Bosch alternator....

Il plug this up this evening and see what happens...

[nickcundy]

Troubleshooting continued...

number 22 on the wiring diagram: dynamo/alternator
number 29 on the wiring diagram: warning light - I'm guessing this is the "charge" light

Almost certain now that the previous owner had linked the yellow wire from the alternator up to number 22 (the two twisted wires that the yellow butt connector joins to). The thinner wire that the blue butt connector was going to is 29 on the wiring diagram.

[nickcundy]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/782.jpg

[nickcundy]

The vehicle has made it to the Wilcannia District news.

I did have a paragraph dedicated to the generous and ongoing support from the Aulro members. Sadly not published!

Some errors in the article...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/757.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/758.jpg

[nickcundy]

Went for a hill test up Norton Summit - a reasonably steep hill close to Adelaide. Performed well! Brakes were excellent.

Car parked outside the Norton Summit CFS

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/574.jpg

[nickcundy]

Wiring fixed and now looking neat. No need for a voltage regulator. New alternator also (inbuilt voltage regulator)

Had a auto electrician look over my work.

Next job - tuning the carby...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/572.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/573.jpg

[nickcundy]

Checked timing again. Was a bit advanced so adjusted and wow - what a difference a minor tune makes. Went for another burn in the hills. Up to 55mph on the freeway.

Gearbox is much smoother now that it is getting a regular run after many years stationary.

Awesome!

I also received the "square" sized number plate for the rear. Didn't charge me which was an added bonus. It is 300mm wide by 150mm I think. Normal is 370mm wide.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/554.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/555.jpg

[nickcundy]

Electronic dizzy. Highly recommend!

Still troubleshooting the gearbox 2nd gear. Some drives it's great, others - won't budge. I might give a product by Nulon - G70 a go...

I've sprayed the leaf springs generously with inox. Get the odd creak when turning a corner at reasonable speed. May need to tighten/inspect/ the U bolts etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/274.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/275.jpg120691

[nickcundy]

Untitled on Vimeo (https://vimeo.com/209039999)

[pk.hoarder]

Electronic dizzy. Highly recommend!

Still troubleshooting the gearbox 2nd gear. Some drives it's great, others - won't budge. I might give a product by Nulon - G70 a go...

I've sprayed the leaf springs generously with inox. Get the odd creak when turning a corner at reasonable speed. May need to tighten/inspect/ the U bolts etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/274.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/03/275.jpg120691
Nick is that dizzy/coil an eBay one? Sounds like you are happy with it...

[nickcundy]

Yeh I did a bit of research on them. I've got a Bosch branded Coil and an aftermarket no name dizzy.

Basically after some advice and physical inspection of both the Bosch electronic dizzy and the aftermarket I couldn't go past the cheaper.

Was told that the Dizzy's were very reliable but to go for Bosch branded coil.

[nickcundy]

If you want to have a look - more than welcome over the weekend

[nickcundy]

Well not much progress with the car. I've done one simple update - dash lights. I purchased a set of these led globes

Land Rover Series 1 2 2a Dash bulbs LED E10 Warm White Original Look x6 232590 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/272119066140)

They have been great to illuminate the previous invisible dash during evening drives! A good upgrade for anyone having similar issues. It was also a good opportunity to tidy up wiring and recrimp any unsatisfactory leads.


I'm on the hunt for a set of Rover diffs 3:5:1 to replace my 4:7:1's - if anyone has a set or knows of some id be keen to hear from you!

Cheers,

Nick

[nickcundy]

Had a run in with an angry bull the other day. With a bit of patience and an hour of crawling in first gear "we" managed to push him into an unsuspecting hills residents paddock...!

looking at upgrading to an ashcroft High ratio transfer. get the gears here and then try and find someone to make the modifications to the transfer case housing... seems like a far cheaper option than sending a transfer case to the UK

[nickcundy]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/436.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2018/01/437.jpg

[Pickles2]

Hello Nick, I've just read your thread through again from start to finish, & I see that I complimented you in 2015 about what a great job you were doing!
Even more impressive now,...what a great job you've done on this classic, and I reckon that 186 Holden engine will do a very smooth job for you.
Can't remember, did you ever sort out the diff ratio?
Well done, Pickles.

[gromit]

Had a run in with an angry bull the other day. With a bit of patience and an hour of crawling in first gear "we" managed to push him into an unsuspecting hills residents paddock...!

looking at upgrading to an ashcroft High ratio transfer. get the gears here and then try and find someone to make the modifications to the transfer case housing... seems like a far cheaper option than sending a transfer case to the UK

Hi Nick,
I'd get details from Ashcroft of the modifications needed then approach an engineering company to get a cost for the modifications first. Will Ashcroft supply gears & a modified s/h transfer box, more expensive but quicker changeover and you know it's been machined correctly.

There are some pictures here of a modified box fitted to my Series III Isuzu C240 powered Series 3 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powered-series-land-rovers/151959-isuzu-c240-powered-series-3-a-post1720389.html#post1720389)

Some pictures are still missing, thanks to Photobucket, but the link should take you to the transfer box. You'll see holes have been bored into the casing and an aluminium 'plug' sealed & locked into place, the positioning of these holes are critical for gear alignment/engagement. Mine had a chewed out gear but it had been made by machining two gears and using the centre from one and the outer from another. I fitted an Ashcroft replacement gear.

Higher ratio gives a top speed that keeps up with other vehicles but off-road gearing isn't changed that much.



Colin

[nickcundy]

Hi Nick,
I'd get details from Ashcroft of the modifications needed then approach an engineering company to get a cost for the modifications first. Will Ashcroft supply gears & a modified s/h transfer box, more expensive but quicker changeover and you know it's been machined correctly.

There are some pictures here of a modified box fitted to my Series III Isuzu C240 powered Series 3 (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/other-powered-series-land-rovers/151959-isuzu-c240-powered-series-3-a-post1720389.html#post1720389)

Some pictures are still missing, thanks to Photobucket, but the link should take you to the transfer box. You'll see holes have been bored into the casing and an aluminium 'plug' sealed & locked into place, the positioning of these holes are critical for gear alignment/engagement. Mine had a chewed out gear but it had been made by machining two gears and using the centre from one and the outer from another. I fitted an Ashcroft replacement gear.

Higher ratio gives a top speed that keeps up with other vehicles but off-road gearing isn't changed that much.



Colin

Thanks Colin


Yes I’m on the hunt in south australia for someone that is able to do the job. There is a pretty detailed print out of the modifications on the Ashcroft website so I might approach a few gearbox workshops with the instructions in hand.

Ashcroft don’t seem to have trans boxes readily available in the UK to buy - it’s become a supply your own arrangement now.

I came across a fella on the Land Rover Series australia page on Facebook that is arranging a few cases to be sent over to UK, machined and gears installed and sent back. $650 without freight. Will see how that pans out too.


Cheers,

Nick

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[QUOTE=nickcundy;2645003]Well it's been a while but some great progress.

Colin has very kindly sent his rear seat bar. Fitted perfectly and has solved many a headache for me. Thank you very much Colin. I arranged through a service called "truckit" you can search on google. It basically connects you through to logistics co's who managed to sort out $40 postage and didn't require the bar to be wrapped etc. door to door.

Next dilemma I had was the dizzy. Would t start on Saturday afternoon. After considerable frustration I found a vague contact on google for distributor repair - A legend called David! What he doesn't know about distributors is quite evidently not worth knowing. David replaced the points, set the dwell, checked the vacuum (working perfectly despite the crud molded on the side) and went over the whole unit. This was all done same Saturday afternoon at his home workshop to the tune of $20. I clearly caught him at a generous time... he even threw in a new cap and rotor. He's on the hunt for a new vacuum to improve the aesthetics of the current one.

I have completed the re-wiring of rear tail lights, brake etc. I ran trailer 7 core in conduit in the same chassis rail as the old cable. I then ran an earth from the chassis up each side. I opted to make all connections inside the vehicle behind the alu corner bracket. Easier to diagnose and it won't cop the water/grit etc. additional leads are ready for a trailer plug to be hooked up.

New number plate - swapped over so I could go for a smaller plate. Currently still waiting but the change in "style" has allowed me to order one that is 300mm wide compared to 370mm wide. 300mm wide will allow it to sit underneath the illumination light and not protrude out the side of the car or obstruct the rear door.

Next job will be to take out the alternator and have it serviced. It is currently only producing 13.3v - it used to do 13.9... all wiring has been checked and unfortunately isn't the cause of problem.

I can get it overhauled and put out 85amps and 13.9...

Still waiting on door hinge kits so they do look badly out of alignment currently and also need to fit rubbers bits it's great to be registered...insured.... and driving. Brakes working too!

Gearbox - need advice here. It goes in 1st, 3rd and 4th without a problem. 2nd gear about 30% of the time. It's a crunch or a jitter the other 70% of the time. What could this be? It hasn't been driven for 10-15 years so is it a spring or alike that is not working as it should or bigger issues?

Cheers,

Nickhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/49.jpgQUOTE]
Hi Nick, just found this thread, I recently purchased a Series 3 station wagon in very similar condition to how you purchased your one, mine too is missing this seat bar. It seems the station wagons weren't as common as the 109" hardtops so parts are very hard to come by!

Love the progress you and your mate have done! Any updates?

[JDNSW]

You are aware, are you, that second gear has no synchromesh, so that double declutching is mandatory for down changes?