Smart mechanic

[Ardo92]

Hey guys,
Just curios to hear your opinion...
Some weeks ago I took my car to a couple of Land Rover specialist for fix the three amigos problem...
I've tried with the nanocom of a friend of mine to check what the problem was and has show up that the problem was (SHUTTLE VALVE FAULT).
The first one asked me 1400$ for replace the modulator, another one asked me around 250$ that in the WORST case can become 400$.
Guess which one have I choose? :)
Anyway the second mechanic told me that the 400$ were only if he had to replace the shuttle valve...
So I took the car to the mechanic and at the end the price was around 450$ without replacing the shuttle valve but only doing a "mod" to the wirings (bypass of the modulator/shuttle valve)+a fix to a plug at the left rear wheel (1 pin was jammed)+ reset of codes and diagnostic etc.

After a couple weeks the three amigos have show up again so I've ring up the mechanic and he said that maybe the shuttle valve needs to be replaced...
He said that is not going to charge me for the labour but only for the part...
If I have understood correct, this means that the mod he did will get useless because the shuttle valve will get replaced...
I want to specify that when I've heade there I were asking for a shuttle valve replacement and not any mods.

I'm really annoyed about that...

What do you think have I to do?
I think is not right that I have to pay for the new part but is only 1 year that I'm in Australia so I dont really know how this kind of things works here...

Cheers

Ardo92

[sierrafery]

Hi, first of all you should do somehow to get to your friend again and plug in nanocom cos there's a quite big chance to have other fault not SVS related if the wiring mod was made cos i suppose(or at least let's hope) that who made it knew to measure the resistances of the switch pack and also if there was a sign of brake fluid ingress he would have told you... so make sure what fault it is before you spend more money on it cos now it can be a worn hub, an earth issue or something else too


by the way do the amigos reset on ignition or it's permannent, and if they reset can't you see the ABS light alone untill you drive it?...that's important


also if the wiring mod is done you can access the two wires(the one to earth and the other to the yellow/green wire) so if you can handle a multimeter you can check yourself the resistances of the switch pack on those wires, you must get 3Kohm with pedal released and 1Kohm with pedal depressed... if you get these values no need to replace the SV switch pack

[Ardo92]

Hi, first of all you should do somehow to get to your friend again and plug in nanocom cos there's a quite big chance to have other fault not SVS related if the wiring mod was made cos i suppose(or at least let's hope) that who made it knew to measure the resistances of the switch pack and also if there was a sign of brake fluid ingress he would have told you... so make sure what fault it is before you spend more money on it cos now it can be a worn hub, an earth issue or something else too


by the way do the amigos reset on ignition or it's permannent, and if they reset can't you see the ABS light alone untill you drive it?...that's important


also if the wiring mod is done you can access the two wires(the one to earth and the other to the yellow/green wire) so if you can handle a multimeter you can check yourself the resistances of the switch pack on those wires, you must get 3Kohm with pedal released and 1Kohm with pedal depressed... if you get these values no need to replace the SV switch pack

Thank you for the answer, tonight I will try with the multimeter...
I try to call up my friend for the nanocom reset...
Anyway I never had only the abs light...

[CaptainJack]

agree with sierrafery's comments

do all the tests so you have all the data first, including checking each wheel sensor. all the info on how to do this can be found in the good oil and a fried with a code reader :D

$450 to do the shuttle wiring mod - wow - and no replacement of the shuttle valve for that - double wow.

I bought a new shuttle valve kit of ebay for $99 and did it myself in an hour - wasn't too hard, just tight fit and you don't need to undo any of the brake lines etc.

Good luck - this can be frustrating - I was lucky and only had just the one fault code, but i did all the tests on the wheels so eliminated as much as i could before doing the shuttle valve. Problem hasn't returned as yet - just over 4 weeks.

[sierrafery]

For the test with multimeter you'll have to unsolder the wire which is connected to the yellow/green one to not get any parallel resistance against earth, the other one leave it alone and measure across that wire which was connected to yellow/green and earth...then if the readings are good solder it back, if the mod is well made the yellow/green wire is cut and the side toward the modulator is left ''in te air''.... there are two earth points in front of the airbox make sure it's good contact there

[Ardo92]

Hi, first of all you should do somehow to get to your friend again and plug in nanocom cos there's a quite big chance to have other fault not SVS related if the wiring mod was made cos i suppose(or at least let's hope) that who made it knew to measure the resistances of the switch pack and also if there was a sign of brake fluid ingress he would have told you... so make sure what fault it is before you spend more money on it cos now it can be a worn hub, an earth issue or something else too


by the way do the amigos reset on ignition or it's permannent, and if they reset can't you see the ABS light alone untill you drive it?...that's important


also if the wiring mod is done you can access the two wires(the one to earth and the other to the yellow/green wire) so if you can handle a multimeter you can check yourself the resistances of the switch pack on those wires, you must get 3Kohm with pedal released and 1Kohm with pedal depressed... if you get these values no need to replace the SV switch pack

Is this the cable of the mod?
https://imageshack.com/i/eyfPIq2Qj
I can't see any other cable underneath...

[Ardo92]

Is this the cable of the mod?
https://imageshack.com/i/eyfPIq2Qj
I can't see any other cable underneath...

https://imageshack.com/i/eyfPIq2Qj

How can I check if the mod have been done?

[sierrafery]

I can't figure out anything from that pic, if you reach under the modulator you should feel two wires coming out from the bottom of it(SVS pack) one connected to earth and the other connected to the yellow/green wire in the loom which goes to the modulator's multiplug to the part which is going toward the ECU and the side toward the modulator let free...that's how it should be...and you must measure on the wire from SVS which goes into the yellow/green wire disconnected and earth.

[Ardo92]

I had a look on Google how the bypass mod should look and I have nothingike that... I'm worried that he did nothing...
what can I do in this case?
I'm going to ask him to show me the cables of the mod (last time he said that they are well hidden). What about if he refuses or can't show me?
What can I do?

[CaptainJack]

I had a look on Google how the bypass mod should look and I have nothingike that... I'm worried that he did nothing...
what can I do in this case?
I'm going to ask him to show me the cables of the mod (last time he said that they are well hidden). What about if he refuses or can't show me?
What can I do?

Is he bigger than you? :o

Benefit of the doubt first, you need to ask him first.
Hard reality is that if he has ripped you off, the stress of pursuing it wont really be worth it unless he offers you a refund.
Also if you do call his bluff and he admits he did not do the job, would you trust him to work on your car and do the right thing now?

[Ardo92]

Is he bigger than you? :o

Benefit of the doubt first, you need to ask him first.
Hard reality is that if he has ripped you off, the stress of pursuing it wont really be worth it unless he offers you a refund.
Also if you do call his bluff and he admits he did not do the job, would you trust him to work on your car and do the right thing now?

Yeah true, let's say That the work has been done... Why have I to pay for the problem that I've asked him to fix the first time? No one asked him about his mod...

[d2dave]

Here is a link to what it sounds like he said was done. It is known as "Option B"

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/local_links.php?action=jump&catid=2&id=152

[Ardo92]

Here is a link to what it sounds like he said was done. It is known as "Option B"

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/local_links.php?action=jump&catid=2&id=152

The wiring is there fortunately, today he checked with the autologic and says "shuttle valve switch" so he said 90$+GST to replace without paying the work.
What do you advice me to check before to do that?

[Blknight.aus]

It sounds to me like hes doing the right thing... or Im reading your info wrong

you had 2 prices, and took the cheap one for doing a part of the job, he told you he didnt replace the shuttle valve and that hed only done the wiring work. evidently that went wrong and it took longer than he thought, siezed bolts, corroded connectors broken plastic body clips that wont release all add time. $250-450, easy at workshop prices especially if you want neat workmanship you cant tell thats been done and since its a solder in job (Im assuming its been done properly here, since Im playing mechanics advocate) have you ever tried to solder wire thats corroded or has brake fluid or engine oil in it?

This stuff happens to me all the time but in most cases Im working at a preagreed price but not a time so if a repair goes overtime for me it just means the customer is out of a car for longer than expected but the price doesnt go up and thats only because I have no other overheads, I work from home at my pace on the jobs I choose.

his assumption on the temporary repair fixing it was wrong and hes offered to do the next bit for parts price only because his diagnostic was wrong I'd do exactly the same thing.

Wanting to inspect the work I did do after you'd been told it might fail and need another repair later if the temp fix didnt work after its failed because you thought I was trying to shonk you is a really quick way to get onto that list of "problem customer" which gets you the exact opposite kind of treatment my "preferred customers" get. If you'd asked for a look see as to why the initial bill was so high when it was first delivered I'd hold a lot more respect for you and even take the time to show you what went wrong, and give you some tips on how to prevent it from happening again. And I'd do that for free as a courtesy just because you might take an interest that makes working for you easier next time around. and thats almost always the first step toward getting onto my prefered customer list.

just sayin'

(heres how not to stay on your mechanics good side (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-1/190938-help-mechanic-urgently-needed-94-disco-tdi.html))
b

[Ardo92]

It sounds to me like hes doing the right thing... or Im reading your info wrong

you had 2 prices, and took the cheap one for doing a part of the job, he told you he didnt replace the shuttle valve and that hed only done the wiring work. evidently that went wrong and it took longer than he thought, siezed bolts, corroded connectors broken plastic body clips that wont release all add time. $250-450, easy at workshop prices especially if you want neat workmanship you cant tell thats been done and since its a solder in job (Im assuming its been done properly here, since Im playing mechanics advocate) have you ever tried to solder wire thats corroded or has brake fluid or engine oil in it?

This stuff happens to me all the time but in most cases Im working at a preagreed price but not a time so if a repair goes overtime for me it just means the customer is out of a car for longer than expected but the price doesnt go up and thats only because I have no other overheads, I work from home at my pace on the jobs I choose.


his assumption on the temporary repair fixing it was wrong and hes offered to do the next bit for parts price only because his diagnostic was wrong I'd do exactly the same thing.

Wanting to inspect the work I did do after you'd been told it might fail and need another repair later if the temp fix didnt work after its failed because you thought I was trying to shonk you is a really quick way to get onto that list of "problem customer" which gets you the exact opposite kind of treatment my "preferred customers" get. If you'd asked for a look see as to why the initial bill was so high when it was first delivered I'd hold a lot more respect for you and even take the time to show you what went wrong, and give you some tips on how to prevent it from happening again. And I'd do that for free as a courtesy just because you might take an interest that makes working for you easier next time around. and thats almost always the first step toward getting onto my prefered customer list.

just sayin'

(heres how not to stay on your mechanics good side (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-1/190938-help-mechanic-urgently-needed-94-disco-tdi.html))
b

That's right, at the end was only a big misunderstanding from me... He's acting in the right way (you're word makes me think... What do I will do I if I am the mechanic... Probably the same...).
I respect him because he his an expert, just had some problem that not concerns his mechanic ability...
Cheers