Prep for 6 week trip defender 300tdi

[Husslu11]

Hope I am posting this in the right spot!

Took my fender out for its maiden camping voyage, got about 150kms and noticed a foul smell, pulled over, let pressure out reservoir tank, no water, topped up and started, turned off after 30 seconds, massive pressure again and water is draining away but not sure where too.

Hmm... Call tow truck, end up having to join rac and bringing me home with a suspected head gasket.

Was meant to tackle with my dad but he is going to be really busy over the next few weeks so i have put it into our mates workshop down the road for them to rip the head off.

Have dropped the radiator off to be rodded, the head will be assessed at head exchange on Monday and if needed I will replace the head.

Have also said to get the timing belt and water pump done at the same time - any other recommendations for maintenance items to be done? 300tdi with 305000ks on the clock and I plan on doing about another 15000 within the next few months.

Also where would be the best/cheapest place to purchase the timing belt, water pump, top and bottom hoses etc as I have told the mechanic I will supply the parts (hoping it would save me a bit of money there too)

Any advice or knowledge would be appreciated, I am always searching on here and have found a lot of useful information and not 100% sure where I'm meant to post everything.

Many thanks
Luke

[Summiitt]

G'day Luke, my 98 300tdi has 480k on it and I've always used genuine parts, the timing belt kit isn't cheap but it's cheaper than a new motor.
From memory my original water pump lasted till 430k, but it wasn't an expensive repair, particularly if you already have the front end pulled off.
Check the prices thru your local dealer and on ebay

[Rick122]

Can recommend roverparts.com.au, they are in Ballarat. Have always received great service from them and their prices are very competitive.

Sent using the AURLO App

[Discomark]

Just be mindful that there have been some mod's to the timing belt kit to help prevent the belt wondering off the pulleys. Keep away from the kit that use's the spot welded lip on the lower crank gear as these have been known to come apart.
I use the Bearmach solid lipped crank gear and INA bearings and purchase from Karcraft. The last one I purchased was kit STC 4096L but they have two manufacturer options for the same kit, one is $132 and the other is $201 so best to call them and ask which is the one with solid lipped crank etc.

Note that belt tension was also revised down to 11Nm.

Cheers
Mark

[simmo]

Hi Luke,

yes you must have the one piece forged pulley, and all new idlers.the spot welded one will definitely fall apart eventually. My engine was wrecked because a well known LR workshop did not change the crankshaft pulley despite me making the request in writing before the job was done. It cost another 2 grand to repair the the engine. I took them to task over it they said they never change the lower pulley, despite it being a very well known, and easy to fix design fault , every landrover magazine and website in the worlds has warnings about it. I paid another workshop with no compensation. (LR automotive) I'd rather pay someone who knows what he's doing than let an idiot work on my car for free. The job is not that technical as long as you follow the instructions.

[Husslu11]

G'day Luke, my 98 300tdi has 480k on it and I've always used genuine parts, the timing belt kit isn't cheap but it's cheaper than a new motor.
From memory my original water pump lasted till 430k, but it wasn't an expensive repair, particularly if you already have the front end pulled off.
Check the prices thru your local dealer and on ebay

Yeah I figured seeing as it was already off I might as well get it done for peace of mind!

[Husslu11]

Can recommend roverparts.com.au, they are in Ballarat. Have always received great service from them and their prices are very competitive.

Sent using the AURLO App

Thanks il check them out

[Husslu11]

Just be mindful that there have been some mod's to the timing belt kit to help prevent the belt wondering off the pulleys. Keep away from the kit that use's the spot welded lip on the lower crank gear as these have been known to come apart.
I use the Bearmach solid lipped crank gear and INA bearings and purchase from Karcraft. The last one I purchased was kit STC 4096L but they have two manufacturer options for the same kit, one is $132 and the other is $201 so best to call them and ask which is the one with solid lipped crank etc.

Note that belt tension was also revised down to 11Nm.

Cheers
Mark


Thanks that was some great info

[Husslu11]

Hi Luke,

yes you must have the one piece forged pulley, and all new idlers.the spot welded one will definitely fall apart eventually. My engine was wrecked because a well known LR workshop did not change the crankshaft pulley despite me making the request in writing before the job was done. It cost another 2 grand to repair the the engine. I took them to task over it they said they never change the lower pulley, despite it being a very well known, and easy to fix design fault , every landrover magazine and website in the worlds has warnings about it. I paid another workshop with no compensation. (LR automotive) I'd rather pay someone who knows what he's doing than let an idiot work on my car for free. The job is not that technical as long as you follow the instructions.

Yeah thanks, if I provide them all the parts then they can swap out whatever I ask them too, pretty confident in there work too so hopefully no dramas. Sounds like an unfortunate situation for you.

[dero]

I got my last cam belt kit from rover lord , a vendor on this site .
The price was fair and the quality was good .