Re-Proofing the canopy

[Chris078]

Slowly working through my list of things to do on the Perentie.

Next is clean off the mould/mildew from the canopy and re-waterproofing it.

I'm going to use a 1:10 white vinegar/water solution to clean off the mould/mildew.
Does anyone have any suggestions/recommendations as to what waterproofing agent to use?
As usual there seems to be varying opinions on what to use (according to the google searches I've done) such as not using silicone based agents.

[101 Ron]

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/84095-progress-report-7.html

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Joseph Lyddy Dry Seal https://www.josephlyddy.com.au/category/waterproofing/product/dry-seal

You'll need at least 2 litres to do just the top. You should also coat the rope tie loops at the side because they act as a wick to draw water inside.

I did mine by placing the hood on a table and used a small paint roller as an applicator.

[Chris078]

I was looking at using Dynaproof, but I can't seem to find anywhere in Brisbane that sells it (via google searches anyway, about to start calling around caravan and awning places and see if anyone has any)

[Chris078]

Semi - productive day acquiring things.
Got some paint and etch primer from Protec (though they have to order the brown in for me)
new bonnet seals $28 thank you Clarke Rubber
and found some Dynaproof for $32 for 2L

2 hours driving around city traffic in the beast and I'm beat.
Also made a discovery as to why my back hates the Perentie.
The drivers seat has been moved over so it is no longer in front of the steering wheel or pedals:censored:.
it's so far over the seat rails actually cover the screws for the rifle but pan!
Job for tomorrow is to remove it and return to it's proper position.

[rathgar]

Today on the radio I heard Shannon Lush talking about canvas.
10 to 1 salt solution to clean
1/4 teaspoon in 1l of water to kill mould spores and add some sunscreen for sun protection.

I have used the salt method but see better results with a bleach solution.

I haven't tried the sunscreen.

I just used COI Aquaproof from BCF as a sealer but it has left a slight milky look.

Previously l have used the Joseph Liddy Dry Seal on a camper wth better results.

Shannon Lush did not recommend a sealer but if it leaks you need something.

[incisor]

i tried dynaproof on my old canopy and it went to crap after shrinking like hell so i got onto the dry seal and have used it for years now.. every 2 yrs in october it gets a new coat...

[DBT]

+1 for Joseph Liddy.

There are 2 types. One is thicker than the other. Get the thick one.

I was lazy and just did the canopy over the cabin. it stays dry with water beading and running off, many, many months after application. Even though that canvas section is very thin, having already been eaten by mildew.

The canvas rear of the front seats, unsealed, absorbs water like a sponge or wet towel.

If I brake hard in the wet, the water in the canvas flows forward, exits the canvas and gives the passenger seat a shower.

Hilarious.

Lowering the FFR cabin blind (plastic) prevents this amusing outcome, but I rarely do this, as it involves effort.

[Chris078]

Lowering the FFR cabin blind (plastic) prevents this amusing outcome, but I rarely do this, as it involves effort.
:Rolling:


I've bought some Dynaproof, so I'll be giving that a try first.
reading around, it seems you have to make sure the product is warm when applying.
putting the tin in a bucket of hot water for an hour before starting and applying in direct sunlight seems to make sure it goes on right and doesn't shrink/crack or dry with a haze in it.
we shall see.

[Chris078]

Just finished the re-proofing.
I went with Dyna-proof, using the solvent based one (there is a water based version - apparently the solvent one penetrates better and lasts longer).

A few tips if anyone wants to do the same using the same product.

1. Heat the tin. If it's cool, the product looks opaque and waxy. Dump it in a bucket of hot (50c) water for 20mins, open it up and give it a stir and it should turn clear; then it is ready to use.

2. keep the tin warm while using it. Pour out a little at a time and keep the tin in hot water (make sure you change the water as it cools)
If it cools down too much, the product will turn opaque again.

3. Work in the sun. Even if the product is hot, if the canvas is cool, as soon as you apply the Dynaproof, it will set waxy, instead of soaking it. I made this mistake, it ends up looking like you grabbed a handful of partially melted wax and smeared it on the canvas.

If you do this, it's not a big deal, wipe off the waxy residue with a rag or scrap off with a plastic ruler (or similar) and reapply when the sun is out again.

4. It goes on quite nicely with a brush and roller. beware if you do it with the canvas on the car, you may splatter some on the vehicle. best to loosen the canvas and hang a towel/tarp over the side where you are working. If you get some on the car, remove by pouring hot water and immediately wiping with a cloth.

5. You will need 4 litres of Dynaproof, gloves, and a mask with solvent filters.

6. Allow to fully dry in the sun, should take 1-3 hours depending on how strong it is.

Overall I'm happy with the result it terms of how it looks. Will have to wait to see how it performs!

If you have any questions let me know.