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~Rich~
14th April 2015, 07:44 AM
Hi Guys thought I would start a new thread on the theme of what to do if.

Here is an example for those who have had an issue occur like:

Out 4wding and you break a CV joint, what do you do?

Barry I'm sure you can answer this one. ;)

mitchE39
14th April 2015, 09:26 AM
I'd probably just cry

RoverLander
14th April 2015, 07:34 PM
Call for Air Support... Probably just get air lifted out... the D4 that is... I don't know how I would get out :)

d2dave
14th April 2015, 07:40 PM
I would do what my son did when he broke one in his P38. Drive home and put a new one in.

loanrangie
14th April 2015, 09:57 PM
Call for Air Support... Probably just get air lifted out... the D4 that is... I don't know how I would get out :)

They will fly in a nice hot latte for you :D

Sent from my GT-I9300 using AULRO mobile app

~Rich~
15th April 2015, 06:24 AM
Still awaiting a response from Redback or Gordon but what I was referring to is that in a D3, D4/RRS if you break a CV your car wont drive.

I have heard that if you have it in Rock Crawl some drive will occur, those who have had this happen what did you do?
How did you get out and was it a flat top recovery to a workshop?
Is it a repair that can be done out in the bush if you had a spare?

The rest of the replies don't really cut it sorry. ;)

jspyle
15th April 2015, 07:36 AM
If I recall correctly Jaimie did a CV (RRS) on the inaugural Lithgow weekend.
He had to be towed out eventually.

SBD4
15th April 2015, 08:21 AM
You can move in rock crawl but when you turn corners the centre dif begins to disengage thus you loose drive to the wheels.

Baz and Rob (Rob did the towing) will be able to correct me if I'm wrong - Baz had to be towed out to the black top due to the fact that the sharp turns on the track caused him to loose drive.

Once on the black top with the gentler bends he was able to proceed but still lost drive on some tighter bends but was able to coast through them.

Redback
15th April 2015, 09:00 AM
Yes what Sean says is exactly what happens, you get no drive(in my case I broke a rear axle) from the rear, all drive is from the front only, as soon as you turn, you loose drive, the other thing I noticed, after a certain time(or distance not sure which) all drive stops also, what I had to do was stop, what till the gearbox engaged again and then I could get going again.

So what did I do, well I put out a call on the forum, and got a few people willing to help, in the end THE BOOGER (Geoff) and his son, brought their car trailer out to us and a mate Graham in his 200 Series, towed us back home, Ian and Lou (Muddymech and Dullbird) then kindly loaned us their old D90 for me to get to work and back, untill our D4 was fixed, there are some great people on this forum and many have helped us out over the years, Discowhite (Phil) many times, thanks Phil if your watching:cool:d2dave(Dave) when in the High Country, thanks Dave.

On that fateful day just mentioned, I also thank, SBD4 (Sean) and Jonesy63(Rob) Muddymech and Dullbird(Ian and Lou) THE BOOGER (Geoff) Graham(4wdadventurers forum) and Adam (Smokey 2.8) from here and 4wdadventurers forum, without their help, I would have been stuck out there for and very long time and I can't thank them enough.

So that's what I'd do, I've helped others and would gladly do it again.

BTW there is a breakdown section on this forum for the excact purpose of helping those stuck somewhere in a situation such as mine and needs help to get going again or get back home.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/aulro-s-o-s-breakdown-only/

Baz.

~Rich~
15th April 2015, 09:23 AM
Thanks Baz, good info on the breakdown service. ( If you have internet or phone service)

Next question - can one be replaced out in the bush???

Geedublya
15th April 2015, 11:48 AM
It should be possible to replace a driveshaft in the bush. However you will need some decent sized tools to undo some of the nuts.

When Steve223 broke the rear lower control arm tie rod bolt, the guys had the hub and driveshaft off fairly quickly, they just couldn't undo the nut to remove the driveshaft from the hub.

When I broke my front CV I was unaware of the rock crawl trick as I had only had the D3 a couple of months. It was only after I had it flat topped to the local indy that I learnt about it. If I did it again I would replace it myself as I now have the required tools from when I did the lower control arms.

Graeme
15th April 2015, 07:30 PM
To attempt to keep the centre diff locked I would fit a temporary remote switch in the TC module's earth wire so that power to the module can effectively be cut whilst driving slowly in a straight line in rock crawl, hoping to freeze the motor's position whilst the diff is locked. As the TC module forms a link in the high-speed can-bus, other systems including the suspension are likely to fail due to lost comms. If the suspension lowers unacceptably then non-LR solutions are available to keep the suspension up.

~Rich~
15th April 2015, 07:57 PM
To attempt to keep the centre diff locked I would fit a temporary remote switch in the TC module's earth wire so that power to the module can effectively be cut whilst driving slowly in a straight line in rock crawl, hoping to freeze the motor's position whilst the diff is locked. As the TC module forms a link in the high-speed can-bus, other systems including the suspension are likely to fail due to lost comms. If the suspension lowers unacceptably then non-LR solutions are available to keep the suspension up.

So you think that would upset other systems Graeme? If not it sounds feasible to do. If it does then it sounds like all sorts of errors may cascade through the lot including Special Programs off which would also stop you.
Yes LLAMS could keep the suspension up of course.

Graeme
15th April 2015, 08:21 PM
The TC module has can-in and can-out pairs so taking it off-line is bound to cause an upset. Loss of special programs would seem to be a minor concern if the vehicle would otherwise fail to proceed and no other vehicle is available for recovery.

jspyle
15th April 2015, 08:34 PM
Do I need to break out the soldering iron?
Could this be done with a software switch using the rotary dial?
I'm taking the D3 across the Simpson in June.

~Rich~
15th April 2015, 08:43 PM
You won't break a CV in the Simpson, trust me I travelled for 6 days cross country without roads over really rough terrain without an issue.

On rock steps on full height with a full boot or at full lock perhaps, but not in the desert.

DiscoDB
15th April 2015, 08:54 PM
To attempt to keep the centre diff locked I would fit a temporary remote switch in the TC module's earth wire so that power to the module can effectively be cut whilst driving slowly in a straight line in rock crawl, hoping to freeze the motor's position whilst the diff is locked. As the TC module forms a link in the high-speed can-bus, other systems including the suspension are likely to fail due to lost comms. If the suspension lowers unacceptably then non-LR solutions are available to keep the suspension up.

Given the electronic control of the centre diff, an after market mod to allow manual override would be a neat mod! Even if only for emergency use.

jonesy63
17th April 2015, 10:00 PM
Hmm... I am now seeing a common fix... if you get a broken CV/driveshaft, get Rob to tow you out! I towed Jamie and Baz out after their incidents! :D

Let's hope there are no more repeat performances! ;)