Flat battery D3 TDV6

[Brightsbane]

Not sure why but this morning the car was slow to turn over and then just wouldn't go. I jump started it and drove about 12k to work. After work, same thing again. Rolled it back a few metres so my mate could get his car close to jump mine but before he could get the leads out I had it started again. Drove home and tried it straight after turning it off and it wouldn't go. Checked voltage and it was 11.4V.
Jumped it and checked the charging voltage which was over 14V at idle. I have to go out again soon for about a 30 min drive so will have to jump it again and hopefully the longer drive will charge it? If not I guess I'll have to pull the battery out and charge it.

Any thoughts on why the battery went dead in the first place? I can't think of anything I did differently in my day to day routine. Will driving it for 30 mins help?

Cheers.

[Ean Austral]

How old is the battery ? if you got 14v whilst running then its charging, but battery is not likely holding the charge. Bad cell maybe.


Cheers Ean

[AnD3rew]

Possibly battery in the way out, but check and clean terminals as well.

[Brightsbane]

It has 2013 on it so shouldn't be to old? The terminals look clean and its had 3 mechanics look at it in the last month (roadworthy, pre-inspection, brake controller wired in).

[ADMIRAL]

Do a search. This is one of the more common issues with a D3 /D4. Once the battery starts to go down, it will be hard to start. If you are only doing short runs to and from work, the charge level will gradually fall.

If the battery is the slightest bit suspect, it will go down fast. Numerous posts on this site from owners having issues, and the battery tests up ok. However once the battery is replaced, all is back to normal.

[sniegy]

Driving the vehicle for short periods will not charge the battery-1hr or less does nothing.

Cheers

[drivesafe]

Driving the vehicle for short periods will not charge the battery-1hr or less does nothing.

x 2

Continual short drives actually cause the battery to discharge, not charge.

If you have a battery charger, try charging it over night, every night for a week and you may bring the battery condition up to where it may be OK and last for a while.

With your short driving habits, I would recommend you charge your battery with a battery charger, at lest once a month.

[Brightsbane]

x 2

Continual short drives actually cause the battery to discharge, not charge.

If you have a battery charger, try charging it over night, every night for a week and you may bring the battery condition up to where it may be OK and last for a while.

With your short driving habits, I would recommend you charge your battery with a battery charger, at lest once a month.

Ok, I assume you have to disconnect both terminals before hooking up to the battery charger? I have taken the battery out of the car tonight and will give it 24 hours charge and see how it goes.

Thanks.

[letherm]

x 2

With your short driving habits, I would recommend you charge your battery with a battery charger, at lest once a month.

I'm in the same boat. Very shorts trips. I put mine on a ctek charger once a month. When you say charge it once a month is a simple overnight charge once a month ok on an ongoing basis or should it be a week's worth and if so does it have to be 7 days straight or can it be say 7 days over a 10 day period.

Martin

[drivesafe]

Hi Brightsbane and you do not need to disconnect anything while charging.

Simply connect the battery charger's positive ( + ) lead to the cranking battery's positive ( + ) terminal.

But then you connect the battery charger's negative ( - ) lead to an earth point away from the battery.

You MUST NOT connect the battery charger's negative ( - ) lead to the cranking battery's ( - ) terminal.

If you have a look just in front of the cranking battery compartment, you will see two studs mounted in the inner guard. Use one of these to connect your battery charger's negative ( - ) lead to.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1084.jpg

[drivesafe]

I'm in the same boat. Very shorts trips. I put mine on a ctek charger once a month. When you say charge it once a month is a simple overnight charge once a month ok

Hi Martin and yes, a good overnight charge once a month should be enough to maintain your cranking battery in reasonable health.

[Brightsbane]

Thanks Drivesafe, this time I've already pulled the battery out of the car so I hope it doesn't upset the ECU or any factory settings.

[drivesafe]

Thank heavens, it's not like the old days, there are no security codes needed anymore.

Just reinstall the battery and reconnect your POSITIVE ( + ) terminal FIRST.

then connect your negative.

You will have lost your TRIP milage info and sometimes your radio stations.

But there is no issues like there use to be.

[Tombie]

Thanks Drivesafe, this time I've already pulled the battery out of the car so I hope it doesn't upset the ECU or any factory settings.

As long as you let the vehicle "go to sleep" before disconnecting the battery everything should be fine...

[jarrods]

What happens if the battery is disconnected before it goes to sleep and can it be fixed?
Also will it still go to sleep if the rear tailgate is open.

Thanks

[drivesafe]

Hi jarrods and yes and yes.

If you disconnect the cranking battery before the vehicle goes to sleep, you may find that after you reconnect the battery and you start the motor, you get any number of error messages being displayed.

If this happens, the vehicle usually resets everything the next time you turn the motor off and let the vehicle go to sleep properly.

There is a real nifty indicator on Land Rovers, that tells when the vehicle's computers have finished their shutdown routines ( the vehicle has gone to sleep ).

When you have applied the Park Brake, turned the motor off, and locked the vehicle, you may have noticed that the Park Brake light remains on.

While this light is one, the vehicle is still going through it's shutdown routines.

Once the light is out, it is then safe to work on the vehicle's battery/electrics.

[Brightsbane]

I've just tested for a parasitic draw and there seems to be about 0.3A after the car goes to sleep. Is this about right?

[Epic pooh]

Yes. If you're concerned about it there is a thread on disco3.co.uk about diagnosing parasitic draw in D3s. But your problem just sounds pretty normal - you just need to get into a good charging routine if using the vehicle for short trips.

[Brightsbane]

Ok thanks. After charging the battery for 24h then re-installing into the car doing some diagnostics and letting it sit overnight, it still wont crank very well (just barely started this morning). I'm guessing the battery is stuffed so I'll go out and buy a new one. Can these be bought off the shelf from Repco etc?

[Epic pooh]

Maybe but I'd be inclined to do some research as these vehicles are hard on batteries. The original battery was an ac delco which lasted well for me (6.5 years) and others. The genuine lr branded battery (not delco anymore) is about 370 (and for that price you can get a Varta g14 agm which is a lot better). I'm currently using an Amaron pro which is reaching end of life at 3.5 years and when I change it out I will go back to a delco I think (or maybe go mass overkill if I can get a Varta at a good price). . HTH.

[DiscoDB]

Speaking of mass overkill, anyone know if the Varta H15 AGM battery will fit the D3 without having to extend cables or anything?

[Brightsbane]

FYI I did a final parasitic draw test tonight and the final result was 0.09A after leaving the car for about 1 hour with hood release sensors disabled. The battery simply wont hold charge and without a load tester I'm going to declare a dead battery. I've now ordered a Varta G14 AGM for $375 off Fleabay, even though the current battery is a Land Rover branded Varta and only 2 years old.

[Brightsbane]

I now have a dilemma, the Varta G14 I've ordered may not get to me before I need to do a 7h drive from Brisbane to Tamworth on Wednesday. I am considering getting another battery in the meantime to serve as the crank battery and then I can later use it as the aux battery with a Traxide system. Now I've searched every thread I can find on batteries and nothing quite answers my question - What battery can I buy that will be on the shelf in the next 3-4 days that will fit in the battery tray as a crank battery and then be able to fit in the aux battery location and also be capable of fitting the Traxide system? The perfect scenario would be if the Varta G14 will work well as an aux battery and I go out and buy an 'off the shelf' crank battery like a Century DIN85L. Or will an Optima D34 fit the crank battery location and if so, where can I find one quickly so I can have my car back again :mad:

[ADMIRAL]

Look for a battery for your aux tray. Optima or Odyssey are good examples. I am sure you can jury rig either of these into your main battery tray for the brief time you have to wait for the larger permanent battery. You may have to mess around a bit with the terminals. You would certainly need to make sure either battery is properly connected when in your main battery tray.

[Epic pooh]

Interesting question. The g14 is far too big for the aux tray.

I don't know if the crank side leads will be long enough (terminal positions and battery height). A d34 will be able to be retained in the cranking side as it is more or less the same width but a little taller. Can't imagine you'd have trouble getting a d34 or similar sized battery at a battery store (although it will not be cheap).

Pics might help (?) :

92858
92859
92860
92861

Good luck !

[Brightsbane]

Great info, thanks. Autobarn have them in stock for $330. I'll have a look at the leads and see if they will be long enough.

[Fitzy2011]

I changed my original battery a few months ago as I was doing a trip and didn't want issues but I kept the original as it didn't show any problems. I still have it and it is charged If you want to borrow it.

Ken 0400 429283

[Fitzy2011]

I changed my original battery a few months ago as I was doing a trip and didn't want issues but I kept the original as it didn't show any problems. I still have it and it is charged If you want to borrow it.

Ken 0400 429283

[drivesafe]

Hi Brightsbane, unfortunately the terminals on the Optima are too far from the edge of the battery, so the D4 positive terminal clamp will not fit.

[Epic pooh]

Something like this would address the post location issue.

92868

[Brightsbane]

Thanks for the offer Ken but I have already gone out and bought the Optima.

Epic Pooh, great minds think alike. Yours and the auto sparky at Autobarn as thats the same idea he had.

Here's how I made it work....... (bare in mind that this is temporary until my crank battery arrives)......

Here is the battery fitted and clamped:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/658.jpg (http://s783.photobucket.com/user/Brightsbane/media/IMG_2407_zpssw1fajax.jpg.html)

Adding the battery leads to the existing clamps:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/659.jpg (http://s783.photobucket.com/user/Brightsbane/media/IMG_2409_zpserl40uld.jpg.html)

Insulated all the bare fittings and clamped to posts:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/660.jpg (http://s783.photobucket.com/user/Brightsbane/media/IMG_2412_zpspur1njij.jpg.html)

The only thing I'm not sure of is what happens with the little tube that was connected to the old battery?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/04/661.jpg (http://s783.photobucket.com/user/Brightsbane/media/IMG_2413_zpsvqrzmt9o.jpg.html)

[LandyAndy]

The tube will be a drain for any gasses/liquid to safely exit the engine bay.
Andrew

[Epic pooh]

You won't need that tube with the optima. As Andy says it is the vent / drain.

Nice use of gaffa tape - that's what I'd have done. Maybe a cable tie or two as well haha

All good now brightsbane ?

[PhilipA]

Tell me, who needs this **** to get 0.1L100Km.

It is just something else to go wrong and may be great in Europe with many hills but what happens across the Nullarbor when you are not overriding much at all.
The whole electronic control of the alternator output thing should be able to be disabled and you D4 owners should be demanding that LR make it possible.
Regards Philip A

[Brightsbane]

All good now brightsbane ?

Yep, starting really well now. Thanks.

[Stuart02]

So I'm gathering from this and other threads that:
- OEM battery life can vary from six to more commonly as little as two years
- there's a few aftermarket battery options but the Varta G14 is currently considered the 'premium' choice.

Our 2010 RRS, battery dated 2013 (so 2.5 years old at the most), went flat while being serviced recently. We were told it was the alternator, even though the hidden diagnostic screen was showing up to 14.4V after starting. I can only guess they looked at the date on the battery and ruled it out.

I put it on the low-amp charger overnight and a month went by without incident including standing for 6 days and my wife's daily 5km/20min each way commute (gotta love inner city living... not!). Then this morning it started but not a sausage from the stereo-related systems.

I have to assume a new battery is in short order (and a traxide DBS which I know to be awesome from previous experience), but in the mean time my wife does a lot of business from the car, so can I put the charger on it overnight and expect the stereo to come alive, or do I need to do the whole hard reset thing?

There's a lot of RRSs in particular that do well less than 15000kms a year and I can't credit that the Toorak types are all popping their batteries on the charger once a month to keep them hobbling along!

[Tombie]

Stuart - there is no way your vehicle can charge up doing the 10km circuit...

In these situations, a charger or longer drives on weekends to put the power back will extend the life.

All those Toorak tractors just replace the battery every couple of years (or get a new vehicle when the lease runs out! )

[Stuart02]

Stuart - there is no way your vehicle can charge up doing the 10km circuit...

In these situations, a charger or longer drives on weekends to put the power back will extend the life.

All those Toorak tractors just replace the battery every couple of years (or get a new vehicle when the lease runs out! )

Cheers to long weekend drives! Just got to get 19"s and A/Ts to do it right :)

There must be a lot of people think Rovers are still plagued by gremlins of old simply because of this battery situation. I guess as long as they sell them to us at appropriately discounted rates when the leases run out, then hey!

[Tombie]

That's it!!! Although I'm enjoying mine and likely keep it when the lease runs out :D

Most won't keep them long enough to have the glitch, or it gets replaced as part of a service and they don't care..

Happens with the BMWs Audis etc as well..
Short runs kill them..

My "office" run is all of 4.6km return...
I just throw in plenty of long runs :)

[Stuart02]

I noticed Every Battery offering a 42 month warranty on Varta G14s... May never need to pay for a battery again!

[Tombie]

I noticed Every Battery offering a 42 month warranty on Varta G14s... May never need to pay for a battery again!


Doesn't work that way! I tried up here...

Had a battery die (not in LR) went and got a battery from century dealer.. Failed in 12 months... Replaced under warranty...

12 months later the replacement failed.... No warranty because the 2 years from original purchase was up.

Also had same with kitchen appliances etc

[letherm]

12 months later the replacement failed.... No warranty because the 2 years from original purchase was up.



May be dreaming but I thought I read or heard somewhere (may have been on The Checkout or in Choice Magazine) that the part replaced starts the warranty anew. Then again Alhzeimer's may be setting in.:p

Martin

[BigJon]

12 months later the replacement failed.... No warranty because the 2 years from original purchase was up.



My battery supplier restarts the warranty period with the replacement battery.

[Tombie]

My battery supplier restarts the warranty period with the replacement battery.

And we argued that also...

I never bothered to chase the legalities of their action at the time.

[discotwinturbo]

No warranty because the 2 years from original purchase was up.

Was just in battery world picking up a phone battery.

Proprietor stated that all vehicle batteries are stamped and warranty always goes from around the stamp date without any need to provide a receipt. Be a very easy case to argue.

Brett....