Warning lights on after under body wash. Scan tool help

[Richardli]

Hi all, just got back from Fraser Island and carried out an under body pressure wash, now I have a permanent transmission fault light coming up, also warning lights for hill decent, apply handbrake warning light- even though it is working, stability lights, special programs disabled , suspension is in low mode. Last night the hazard lights and alarm we're going off for no reason. I had to disconnect battery over night to stop it. Today hazard light and alarm problem has resolved by itself but all other problems still evident. , I've been through all the plugs that I can find under the vehicle /chassis area. No water found in plugs.

Just wondering if anyone else had struck the same problem and advice on a scan tool to purchase. I have a basic launch scan tool but doesn't read any codes on the Disco 3 2.7 tdv6 I want a full function scan tool.

Assistance would be much appreciated

[BMKal]

Good chance that it will all come good when everything "dries out". If not, try a "hard re-set".

I had a slightly similar problem with mine a couple of days ago after washing under the bonnet (for the first time). When I locked the car up, the left side indicator globes stayed permanently on. After a little while, and a few unlock / lock cycles, everything returned to normal. Pretty sure that I got water in one of the relays for the extra indicators fitted in the ARB bulbar.

[Richardli]

Cheers. I was hoping it would dry out but it's over 24 hrs since problem started and it is still evident. What is involved in a hard reset?.

[SBD4]

Did you pressure wash the engine bay? If so you are likely to have gotten some water in the transmission Control module. Make sure you dry it out!

have a look here:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/93008-d3-has-gone-bit-silly-after-wash.html

[LandyAndy]

From memory of Gordons GOE course there was one connector that was mentioned to be an issue.
Possibly where the air compressor is(under the gaurd).If nobody else has verified this tommorow I will get my GOE book out of the D4 and look it up.
Andrew

[LandyAndy]

Cheers. I was hoping it would dry out but it's over 24 hrs since problem started and it is still evident. What is involved in a hard reset?.
Remove battery leads then short them together,ie neg lead touch onto pos lead,BOTH disconnected from battery.CAUTION,if you have a second battery that MUST be disconnected BEFORE doing this.
If indoubt,search hard reset on AULRO for more peace of mind.
GOODLUCK
Andrew

[LandyAndy]

Did you pressure wash the engine bay? If so you are likely to have gotten some water in the transmission Control module. Make sure you dry it out!

have a look here:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/93008-d3-has-gone-bit-silly-after-wash.html

This MAY have been the issue discussed in the GOE course,will check the book tommorow.
Andrew

[SBD4]

Remove battery leads then short them together,ie neg lead touch onto pos lead,BOTH disconnected from battery.CAUTION,if you have a second battery that MUST be disconnected BEFORE doing this.
If indoubt,search hard reset on AULRO for more peace of mind.
GOODLUCK
Andrew

I learnt a different way to do the hard reset or "full system reset" the other day. I was told that after removing the battery leads, rather than short them together directly, instead, stand on the brake and pull on the high beam switch for 30 seconds to effect the short circuit. Apparently it is safer for the vehicle.

[jonesy63]

Meh! Did they do that on the assembly line - the very first time power was connected? :wasntme::D;)

[BMKal]

I learnt a different way to do the hard reset or "full system reset" the other day. I was told that after removing the battery leads, rather than short them together directly, instead, stand on the brake and pull on the high beam switch for 30 seconds to effect the short circuit. Apparently it is safer for the vehicle.

With battery leads disconnected, I fail to see how standing on the brake and pulling on the high beam switch can possibly effect a short circuit. ;)

But, no doubt, there's mysteries surrounding these vehicles that I'm yet to learn about. :D

[Graeme]

With battery leads disconnected, I fail to see how standing on the brake and pulling on the high beam switch can possibly effect a short circuit. ;)Disconnecting either the positive or negative battery lead to isolate power for 3 seconds is more than enough time to drain any residual power from supply-line capacitors in ecus. That is, all power will have been drained before one has time to detach the 2nd battery cable!

[LandyAndy]

OK.Just consulted Gordons Bible.He suggests coating the connectors with an electrical sealant.Mentions 3 brands,LPS2 Marine spray(lasts 6 to 8 weeks).CRC Plasticoat(lasts 2 to 3 weeks).Radio Spares WaxOyl(lasts,have to scrape it off).
The connectors that need sealing.D3 battery area,Transfer case module is behind the battery,remove battery spray the contacts(D4 is moved to the drivers side battery area).EAS compressor,2 multi-pin connectors next to chassis rail under plastic cover.These are the ones where they remain damp and corrode due to trapped mud/dirt.Remove cover and treat.Rear passenger wheel,top of suspension tower,multi pin connector treat.
You may have already found these connectors.
Goodluck,let us know how you go.
Andrew

[Ean Austral]

Why wouldn't you just spray every electrical connection under the bonnet along with those suggested ? Seems as tho it wouldn't hurt.

Cheers Ean

[jonesfam]

Why wouldn't you just spray every electrical connection under the bonnet along with those suggested ? Seems as tho it wouldn't hurt.

Cheers Ean



Why didn't Land Rover make them bloody water proof in the first place?
Wouldn't hurt.
Jonesfam

[SBD4]

Cricky, that got the lads going:D


Meh! Did they do that on the assembly line - the very first time power was connected? :wasntme::D;)
No Rob, They didn't... because they were connecting power instead!:p


With battery leads disconnected, I fail to see how standing on the brake and pulling on the high beam switch can possibly effect a short circuit. ;)

But, no doubt, there's mysteries surrounding these vehicles that I'm yet to learn about. :D
Brian, the switches are being closed providing a path for current to flow - same as touching the cables together. I was arguing with roadside assistance for 10 minutes(long story and no spanners) but he refused to touch the cables together insisting that he had blown major fuses doing so on other vehicles. All I could think of was that there must have still been power connected somewhere(DBS). I humoured him and let him go through his process. All I really needed was a spanner to disconnect the battery.



Disconnecting either the positive or negative battery lead to isolate power for 3 seconds is more than enough time to drain any residual power from supply-line capacitors in ecus. That is, all power will have been drained before one has time to detach the 2nd battery cable!

Graeme, I completely agree - I have an electronics background too although a little rusty these days.

[Richardli]

Did you pressure wash the engine bay? If so you are likely to have gotten some water in the transmission Control module. Make sure you dry it out!

have a look here:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/93008-d3-has-gone-bit-silly-after-wash.html

Hi, Yes I did wash the engine bay. I checked the TCM 1st and all was dry.

[Richardli]

Hi all thanks for the info. I have checked all connectors mentioned except the compressor plug. I shall check this tomorrow. I carried out a hard reset last night but didn't make any difference. Then I thought it was all fixed this morning when I 1st started vehicle. No lights, all back to normal. I restarted it another 2 times all still looked good. I left vehicle for a couple of hours then restarted now the transmission fault light, special programs unavailable and stability lights on again. This vehicle drives me nuts.

I'm going to source a scan tool tomorrow, any suggestions on brands and models.

I'm currently in Bundaberg heading north on our big lap of Aus but am stuck here until I get this sorted. If all else fails does anyone know a good LR specialist up here. Reports on local dealer here say they have limited knowledge on LR even though they are a dealer

[SBD4]

I recall a thread some time ago where someone had a cable dislodged from the transmission by a stick whilst 4wding. Perhaps a the wash has done a similar thing. I'll see if I can find the thread...

[SBD4]

Found it. Not saying this is your issue but there are cables/connectors that you could check around the Transmission and transfer case - after you check the compressor per Andy's suggestion.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/199441-d4-tccm-fault-codes.html

[Graeme]

LRS (Land Rover Spares) workshop in Mackay if you get that far and still have the problem.

[Mungus]

I'm going to source a scan tool tomorrow, any suggestions on brands and models.

The 'Technical - Electronic Diagnostics' section has much info.
This thread as a starter.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/electronic-diagnostic-systems/210627-diagnostic-tool-a14my-d4-sdv6.html


I have a 'IIDTool BT' and find it very good and easy to use. These are made by Gap Diagnostics and sold in Oz by Britpart which you can access from the following link.
IIDTool for Land Rover - GAP Diagnostic (http://www.gap-diagnostic.com/products/iidtool.html)
Can't comment on the others available, but I believe they are just as capable. I need to learn more about 'fault cascading' as sometimes it may be the case that the fault you see is not the real cause.
Good luck, hope it all dries out and clears you for your journey.

[Graeme]

I suspect a wheel speed sensor circuit is causing the other systems to be unavailable as they require ABS to be operational.

[Richardli]

Hi all thank you for the constant information. It is all very helpful. I took the Disco to Bundaberg Landrover today for a fault code read as this was all they have time for until next Tuesday. Due to being booked out .They reported communication fault codes in every module. Exact codes they will supply me tomorrow as they were having printer issues today. The most common code related to transfer control module. No visual signs of water damage, but most likely. All associated wiring, fuses and plugs were all ok. They couldn't give me a definite answer until further diagnosis next Tuesday. Hopefully once I have the codes I can continue the diagnosis as we are stranded here until repaired. The chance of drying out is very slim now it has been 4 days since problem happened. Fingers cross once I have the exact codes I'll be able to research and repair ASAP so we can get back on the road. Thanks again for the assistance so far.

Regards Richard

[Graeme]

The transfer case module is not sealed, with the circuit board and connectors exposed to any sprayed water. The transfer case module is also a link between 2 sections of the high speed canbus (in 1 side and out the other) so if its processor fails then the canbus will be interrupted, preventing communication between the modules on either side.

I suggest that the transfer case module be removed, then remove the circuit board from its enclosure, washed in clean water and allowed to dry before being refitted. That was standard practice many years ago for mainframe computer circuit boards if subjected to water from a fire sprinkler system.

[DiscoDB]

The transfer case module is not sealed, with the circuit board and connectors exposed to any sprayed water. The transfer case module is also a link between 2 sections of the high speed canbus (in 1 side and out the other) so if its processor fails then the canbus will be interrupted, preventing communication between the modules on either side.

I suggest that the transfer case module be removed, then remove the circuit board from its enclosure, washed in clean water and allowed to dry before being refitted. That was standard practice many years ago for mainframe computer circuit boards if subjected to water from a fire sprinkler system.

So you can "wade" into 700mm deep water, but just don't splash any water around.....hmmm. (-:

[LandyAndy]

Gordon does say they are good for the wading depth even better,the engind compartment is sealed much better than lesser vehicles.Stopping and getting flooded or pressure washing the engine is a different story;););););)
Andrew

[Richardli]

Hi all, I replaced the transfer module today and had it programmed. Problem all sorted. Thank you all for your info.

[kmdisco]

Hi well done Richardli glad it is all fixed.

I do hope your trip will be trouble free
regards Kev.


MY13 D4 SDV6 HSE.

[LRD414]

I know from experience that it's a great feeling to be back up and running. Not knowing the problem is the worst part. Enjoy.

[shanegtr]

I've noticed a coulple of threads on here about getting water into the transfer module. Has anyone done any work to attempt to seal them up a bit better to avoid this sort of thing happening?

[LandyAndy]

Gordon suggested a heavy duty plastic bag and cable tie would be better than nothing.
Andrew