Engine oil leak from around diesel oil filter

[Terri]

Trying to understand an engine oil leak that is to the rear of the oil filter.
There is oil sitting in the valley behind the filter, I've tried sucking it out and dabbing it dry as much as I can and I am monitoring it to see if it caused by a leak or from spillage.

I'm hoping its spillage but struggling to understand how this is possible given the filter screws into the oil filter mount. Am I removing the filter to quickly? I unloosen it slowly till I hear a gargling sound. I assume this is the oil running back in to the engine. Or am I wrong, could it be oil overflowing over the edges of the oil filter mount in to the valley?

[Fatso]

Gday , would suggest the gurgling sound is oil running back into the motor as you unscrew the oil canister , mine does the same but no oil in the valley .

[Terri]

Gday , would suggest the gurgling sound is oil running back into the motor as you unscrew the oil canister , mine does the same but no oil in the valley .


Thanks, was almost hoping you would say it was causing oil in the valley. Only noticed it after my first oil change. Hoping I haven't screwed something up. Used a torque wrench, followed all the advice re: putting the new filter into the cover first, changed o-ring (twice now). What possible damage could have been caused by either me or the last guy who changed the filter having overtightened? Still not ruling out spillage but its just impossible to clean that valley out completely. I'm monitoring it by using a stick in the valley to check the level. It's a slow process.

[Fatso]

When you replace the oil filter you should place it in the oil filter housing first then make sure you fit and push the spigot on the bottom of the filter into the hole in the filter housing , then replace o ring and refit the filter cover and torque to 25nm. . Not a good idea to place filter in the cover first then screw in , if I have read your post correctly ? , this method can not ensure the filter is correctly fitted with the spigot in the correct place and may result in a crushed filter and no oil return to the engine from the filter housing .

[vbrab]

Once had an oil leak on top due to a pin hole in the sealing gasket ring on the filter cover. Wasn't obvious when putting it on, but it was enough for it to seep oil over a few weeks. Was using after market (OEM) Oil filters, but Now use only MAHLE filters as have also found their "O" ring appears to be a better fit than after market filters.

[Terri]

When you replace the oil filter you should place it in the oil filter housing first then make sure you fit and push the spigot on the bottom of the filter into the hole in the filter housing , then replace o ring and refit the filter cover and torque to 25nm. . Not a good idea to place filter in the cover first then screw in , if I have read your post correctly ? , this method can not ensure the filter is correctly fitted with the spigot in the correct place and may result in a crushed filter and no oil return to the engine from the filter housing .

Sorry, yes your right, I meant to say I put the filter in to the filter housing like you are saying, not in to the cover. Had another look tonight and the level in the valley has not changed from what I can tell, however there is still oil dripping down after driving. I had thought that the oil may only have leaked out when the valley is overflowing but that is not the case IF it is in fact coming out from the valley. Its very difficult to see what is going on at the back of the engine, in fact it is impossible, I have tried many times from all angles with a mirror and also tried with an inspection camera.

[Terri]

Once had an oil leak on top due to a pin hole in the sealing gasket ring on the filter cover. Wasn't obvious when putting it on, but it was enough for it to seep oil over a few weeks. Was using after market (OEM) Oil filters, but Now use only MAHLE filters as have also found their "O" ring appears to be a better fit than after market filters.

Hi, thanks for your reply. How did you come to the conclusion it was the o-ring leaking? I used a ford genuine part for this change, then tried a 2nd o-ring from an OEM filter.

[Fatso]

If oil is dripping on the ground after driving you could check around the Turbo area , you can get a reasonable look at the turbo from under the right wing even better if you take the wheel off .


Oil may leak from the oil cooler which is the part under where oil filter housing sits , this part is bolted to the block and has a rubber seal , may have to dismantle the air intake Y piece out to get a good look here , not a big job .

[Terri]

Thanks Fatso, I'm reluctant to start dismantling anything unless i know for sure what it is but if it does get to that would you know where to get the exploded view of the oil cooler area and procedure on how to get at it, how it works etc? That would be a big help in understanding this.

[Fatso]

Google may be your best friend with instructions , also there is a Haynes disco manual available , any good motoring shop or book shop should be able to supply . My Haynes manual is No 5562 .

[Terri]

Yeah I knew there was a Haynes manual, just reluctant to buy it unless it doesn't have enough detail or that particular component of the car is different in some way. I'd be much obliged if you could tell me if there is at least some instruction in that manual regarding removal of oil cooler. If there is I'll fork out and get one. Thanks again for your help. It's appreciated.

[Terri]

Stumbled across this site which looks helpful, maybe helpful to someone else as well.

Oil Cooler & Filter Discovery 3 | Land Rover and Range Rover parts (http://landrover.shukersparts.co.uk/oil-cooler-filter.html)

Pardon my ignorance but what's under the oil cooler seal, is that part of the block? Also looks like the oil cooler has two pipes in it. What would these be for. IS it water cooled perhaps. Appear that the whole thing is held in by one M6 bolt surely that can't be right.

[Terri]

Sorry for all these posts but found this as well when I did I search on the oil cooler assembly part no. 1354253

Looks like there are two coolers in this area, an oil cooler underneath which attaches to the block and a fuel cooler that is mounted on the oil cooler assembly. This means there must be another seal between the oil cooler and the block. So 3 possible spots for a leak. The filter o-ring, the oil cooler seal on top of the oil cooler and I'd have to assume an oil cooler seal under the oil cooler i.e. between the oil cooler and block.

1354253 | COOLER - FUEL | Land Rover | | Britcar (UK) Ltd (http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/250721/5497/cooler___fuel)

[DiscoDB]

Stumbled across this site which looks helpful, maybe helpful to someone else as well.

Oil Cooler & Filter Discovery 3 | Land Rover and Range Rover parts (http://landrover.shukersparts.co.uk/oil-cooler-filter.html)

Pardon my ignorance but what's under the oil cooler seal, is that part of the block? Also looks like the oil cooler has two pipes in it. What would these be for. IS it water cooled perhaps. Appear that the whole thing is held in by one M6 bolt surely that can't be right.

Picture just shows one of each part, there would be 8 bolts based on the housing detail.

[Fatso]

Yeah I knew there was a Haynes manual, just reluctant to buy it unless it doesn't have enough detail or that particular component of the car is different in some way. I'd be much obliged if you could tell me if there is at least some instruction in that manual regarding removal of oil cooler. If there is I'll fork out and get one. Thanks again for your help. It's appreciated.


There is a step x step procedure in the Haynes manual for the cooler removal and refitting. . The cooler is bolted to the block with 8 bolts .
Not saying that's where the leak is only a sagestion where it might be .
Also just behind the oil filter housing is the oil separator which can leak if the o rings are shot , oil leaks are difficult to find just a matter of elimination and a lot of patience .

[letherm]

Yeah I knew there was a Haynes manual, just reluctant to buy it unless it doesn't have enough detail or that particular component of the car is different in some way. I'd be much obliged if you could tell me if there is at least some instruction in that manual regarding removal of oil cooler. If there is I'll fork out and get one. Thanks again for your help. It's appreciated.

Hi Terri

A member run site has CDROM manuals that may be of interest.

Link is https://www.davesitshop.com/emporium/manuals-cd/dvd.html

Martin

[Terri]

Thanks for the replies, going to focus on cleaning it up and watching carefully with engine running from the top down i.e around the base of the filter.

[Ean Austral]

The o-ring on the filter housing would be very easy to not install correctly, I have on a couple occasions had to take the o-ring back off the housing because it's twisted and not seated in the right groove on the housing.

If this has been happening only since your last filter change then it's more than likely a issue with the o-ring or not been installed correctly.

Let the car sit over night and before you start it in the morning unscrew the housing and check the o-ring is correctly installed.most of the oil should drain into the sump whilst sitting over night.

Cheers Ean

[Terri]

The o-ring on the filter housing would be very easy to not install correctly, I have on a couple occasions had to take the o-ring back off the housing because it's twisted and not seated in the right groove on the housing.

If this has been happening only since your last filter change then it's more than likely a issue with the o-ring or not been installed correctly.

Let the car sit over night and before you start it in the morning unscrew the housing and check the o-ring is correctly installed.most of the oil should drain into the sump whilst sitting over night.

Cheers Ean

Hi Ean, I'm really wishing that was the case, but I have checked it and double checked it many times now. I've changed the oring twice as well. It could still be that I am doing it wrong but I doubt it. There is no place the oring can go but where it is located. Today I cleaned the base of the filter and outside of the filter base and climbed up over the engine while it was being reved at about 3000 RPM, I looked very carefully with an LED light all round the base of the filter and there was nothing at all coming out so I am back to square one. It's really frustrating. I've got to just keep cleaning it and watching and learning how it all fits together.

[vbrab]

Assuming ring is in correct position, then might the leak be coming from a stress crack in the body of the filter cover?
Cover appears to be some sort of bakelite/plastic and might have a crack that only appears under tension when tightened into place (perhaps spreading when tightened down).
Easy check is clean cover thoroughly, make sure it is dry, invert and fill with kerosene (not sure where you might find some these days), and leave overnight. If there is a crack in it, the kero will seep through it.

[letherm]

Assuming ring is in correct position, then might the leak be coming from a stress crack in the body of the filter cover?
.

My last car had a problem where the brake fluid kept depleting but not all the time. It ended up being an aluminium panel that would flex ever so slightly creating a micro leak. There was no residue and it was very hard to find. I finally figured out that it only happened after I had been on a long run at expressway speeds and told my mechanic. It was fixed by putting in a thicker gasket seal.

Food for thought :).

Hope you isolate and fix it soon.
Martin