Converting front electirc windows to live feed-thoughts?

[alien]

Here is my dilemma for the AULRO brains trust...
Quite often when tripping we tend to stop with the windows down late in the arvo.
As I do the pack up thing before hitting bed once dark I need to put the windows up, no surprise there.
To do it needs the ignition key turned on but as I have Day Time Running Lights I tend to light up the camp ground;)
At the moment, if I remember I need to also turn on the parkers to stop the DTRL but this just puts out less light to the camp ground also.

So I'm thinking of doing a quick rewire for the electric window relay power source.
I found an old thread with a timer fitted but it wouldn't solve my issue.
I'm not worried about the windows being used with no key as the back ones wind by hand anyway.

Has anyone done this?
What are your thoughts?
Next step is to see how easy the dash fuse box comes out for access if I go with the idea.
I should add this is for a 2011, Puma (110).

[Homestar]

Personally, I can't see an issue with this Kyle as long as that circuit doesn't pull any power while just sitting there - through a relay that stays energised, etc, you should be all good.

[p38arover]

Just a thought, will the windows close if you hold the lock button depressed or if you put the key in the lock, turn, and hold it in lock? (Both methods work on my 20-yo P38A.)

[bee utey]

Personally, I can't see an issue with this Kyle as long as that circuit doesn't pull any power while just sitting there - through a relay that stays energised, etc, you should be all good.
Quite. A friend of mine rewired his old Volvo that way and the subsequent owner wondered why the battery always went flat within a week. I suggest you fit a momentary switch to the window circuits so you can temporarily power them up but generally they're off.

[pop058]

Quite. A friend of mine rewired his old Volvo that way and the subsequent owner wondered why the battery always went flat within a week. I suggest you fit a momentary switch to the window circuits so you can temporarily power them up but generally they're off.

As BU suggests, a momentary push button that has an interdependent live feed that operates the factory UP relay only. As simple as it get with the bonus of the bypass switch can only be used to close the windows (security :)) and draws no current when not in use.

[p38arover]

As BU suggests, a momentary push button that has an interdependent live feed that operates the factory UP relay only.

Operated by the driver's door lock?

[bushrover]

I suggest you fit a momentary switch to the window circuits so you can temporarily power them up but generally they're off.

This is what I did to mine............hold the momentary switch and activate the window switch. I put diodes in the power supply to the window switches so I wouldn't get any back feed. Don't really know if I needed them or not.

Rick

[pop058]

Operated by the driver's door lock?

:thumbsup:

That way when you remotely lock the car, the windows would automatically close. I might try that on my D1 :)

[p38arover]

That might need a timer otherwise the switch would be operated while ever the car is locked. The switch needs to sense the key being turned to lock.

[alien]

Thanks for the input troupes.
Looks like it may be time to have a look at the wiring diagrams and play with the key too.


Not real worried about if the windows can be used full time as the back door has manual handles anyway;)

[RVR110]

I've done it. Simply:
Access the two plugs that go into the back of the window switches on your dash. For each plug:
Identify which of those wires going into the plug is the +12v feed from the ignition.
Snip it about 4-6cm from the plug.
Find an always on +12v feed (via a fuse of course) and solder that into the wire from plug.
I used a feed from my auxiliary battery.

[Blknight.aus]

Just a suggestion.

Why not fit a simple remote to the up only control relay? That way you don't even have to open the car.

[alien]

Just a suggestion.

Why not fit a simple remote to the up only control relay? That way you don't even have to open the car.
Knowing my luck the remote would interfere with the alarm system and leave me stranded;)


Looking at the wiring diagram last night it may be a simple modification.
The window relay is switched from the ignition.
This allows a 60Amp feed to flow to fuses 24&25 at the dash.
They are 20Amp and feed the 2 window switches.
Solution is a bridge wire at pins 30 and 87 of the relay, if there is no current when I check with the multi meter.
Could it be that simple? I'll go find out.

[Blknight.aus]

Yep, that simple but I think you'll find your going to hae about an amps worth of draw for the control module.

The easiest hing to do you be to wire up a dpdt toggle momentary to the window wiring so that in the normal position it runs the vehicle wiring and in the momentary it connects to a hot fused feed and an earth.

[alien]

Yep, that simple but I think you'll find your going to hae about an amps worth of draw for the control module.

The easiest hing to do you be to wire up a dpdt toggle momentary to the window wiring so that in the normal position it runs the vehicle wiring and in the momentary it connects to a hot fused feed and an earth.
Thanks again Dave.
Being a back to basics Defender there is no control module to worry about(unlike the old D2).


Success:)
I ran the multi meter over the relay switched contacts and there is no draw until either switch is used.
I've put a jump wire across them and it is easily accessed as it sits just above the fuses.
With no wires cut all I have to do is pull the wire and refit the relay to go back to the standard setup.
This also maintains all the fuses doing what they should ex-factory.

[Blknight.aus]

I've not messed with the wiring for the ford deender, I had assumed it would be of at lest th same tech setup as a D1 which has a module that draws power if you bridge its main power relay.

I knew the TD5 varient didnt have a windows module but I wasnt sure if ford had messed with it.

[deesse]

G'day, within 2days of having my '08 130 I had the poops with having to turn the key on for the windows to work. So I did as I have done on many cars & that is find the relay for the windows, can't remember where it is, under the drivers seat I think, pull it out, the relay that is. You'll now know if it's the right one as the windows won't work. Then bridge the + power in term.(key off) across to the + power out term. & voila all done. Windows work any time & ya battery won't go flat. If ya need any more info. I'll ava look at my truck & how I did it. Now that I think about it the relay maybe in the dash in front of ya right knee. I had no trouble finding it as it's one of the ones that click when ya turn the key on & off. The relay is now in the centre cubby box as a spare. Good luck, it's worth the effort! Ian

[deesse]

Alien, just realised that my last post was all in vain, you had already done what I suggested, good mod. hey? Ian