Puma Battery Connect - URGENT HELP

[Keath]

I removed the battery in my 2008 110 Puma today to begin installing an AUX battery.

I followed the correct procedure and removed the negative terminal first, then the positive. After I did what i could on nutting out the DBS, i decided i would finish it off tomorrow, so i re-installed the battery, positive terminal first, then negative.

However now there is no power to the car at all!

I figured i must have accidently blown the 500A fuse. In order to test if the fuse was blown i hooked a battery charger up through it and it started charging fine, which makes me think that it's not blown.

Can anyone tell me what else could be causing this issue?

Thank you in advance.

[alien]

Is the wire (Brown on my latter model) that runs from the battery positive to the fuse box connected?

[ozy013]

Could be many things.
Not sure 100% what's going on, do you mean the car wont start or there's now no charge in your battery?
Are there any lights on the dash when you turn the ignition to run?
Does the red immobilser light come on or not?
Have you checked your chassis ground connection?
What voltage is your battery showing?

I guess by correct procedure you mean that you switched the vehicle on and then off, removed the key from the ignition, and then disconnected the ground within 15 secs? (I think the manual says 17 seconds, but will check).

I know the 10A systems on the early Puma's had problems with the relay under the drivers seat. Maybe check the connection to said relay and that it's seated properly.
Could also be possible that your immobiliser is now out of sync, but unlikely if you followed all the steps.

Good luck.

[ozy013]

http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/LandRoverSecurityManual.pdf

I doubt the problem is your immobilser, but I have the Land Rover 10AS manual on my computer. I can't seem to post the file here, but the above link should give you a better understanding of the system. It also gives the procedure for re syncing the plip, and entering the emergency access code.

The first half of the manual is for the 10AS, the second half is the 27VT on the Freelander.

http://nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads/1691879270.pdf

This link shows how programmable the 10AS system is, however you do need access to a Nanocom or similar diagnostics.

[ozy013]

How did you go Keath, get it all sorted?

[Keath]

This is exactly what was wrong. I have a few accessories which run to the positive and they are all in conduit like the fuse feed, and I connected the wrong wire. I feel like such a dill.

Thanks so much for the replies all, this is why I love this forum.

[ozy013]

Ah spot on Kyle, good to hear, good luck with the dual battery install.

[DiscoMick]

This is exactly what was wrong. I have a few accessories which run to the positive and they are all in conduit like the fuse feed, and I connected the wrong wire. I feel like such a dill.

Thanks so much for the replies all, this is why I love this forum.

Its easy to do. My battery box looks like a spaghetti convention. I must put in a fuse box to tidy it up.

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