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Canaussie
12th May 2015, 06:41 PM
Looky looky what arrived today!! With Superpro bushings, can't wait to get these installed and get rid of that front end clunk 93824
Great service and price from Advanced Factors!! Some Aussie retailers could learn a thing or two from AF!

Tombie
12th May 2015, 06:44 PM
Let me know how the poly bushes get on...
Both changes to ride and keep an eye on the chassis mount point (after some severe off-roading and say 10,000km).

I'm keen to see what influence these elastomer based bushes have in such a high flex environment.

Canaussie
12th May 2015, 06:55 PM
Will do Tombie, I'm also interested how they go. Keep an eye on chassis mount point?? I'm a bit confused on that point, do you reckon they would be to hard on the chassis causing cracking?

Tombie
12th May 2015, 07:00 PM
I've always been impressed with Super Pro.
In this application replacing a Hydrolastic bush I'm concerned there may be some additional stress on the arm and mount as the range of motion with factory bushes is significant.

LRD414
12th May 2015, 07:39 PM
I'm concerned there may be some additional stress on the arm and mount as the range of motion with factory bushes is significant.

Tombie, does the factory bush allow movement in the other axis, other than just rotation around the pin? Is that like a knuckle joint in that case, albeit with less range and perhaps damped?

Then the theory is that a stiffer elastomer alternative could transfer that load to the mounting (chassis).

If I'm anywhere close to right, I can't see how the factory bush actually works:confused:

Regards,
Scott

Canaussie
12th May 2015, 07:48 PM
Mine has way to much movement in the other axis at the moment, therefore the clunk I get when hitting any sharp edged objects. Here's a good video of it, not mine, but I shot a similar vid that showed the same! http://youtu.be/0vD1CkzTGJA

Tombie
12th May 2015, 08:20 PM
To understand how they move - Look under your vehicle (from safely away from being squashed :angel: ) and ask someone to raise to full height and then lower to minimum and watch the fore and aft movement that the bush caters for...

These are the style of bush..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/957.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/Peterflux/media/540TouringRearSubFrameBush.jpg.html)

As you can see there is room for fore and aft plus some off axis movement.

The centre of the bush is usually filled with oil...

shanegtr
12th May 2015, 08:44 PM
Make sure to keep us posted on how they go once installed and the long term durability.

ade
12th May 2015, 09:11 PM
I had enough on my 06 disco they flogged out in about 70 thou kms. Much nicer ride with originals

LRD414
12th May 2015, 09:18 PM
These are the style of bush..
As you can see there is room for fore and aft plus some off axis movement.
The centre of the bush is usually filled with oil...

Excellent, thanks. Another unexpected thing to learn about thanks to this forum. It reminds me of Graeme's mention of hypoid gears in the diff awhile back that I'd never heard of either.:D

I will definitely be looking underneath when I get a chance.

Scott

stuart
13th May 2015, 10:31 AM
Tombie too true been using super pro for various Landies I've had and they have been great. But i'm yet to see anything lasting any better than the OEM bush for the D3/D4/RRS. The arms are getting cheaper and cheaper as time goes on so will be better of the hip pocket.

my 2c
Stu




I've always been impressed with Super Pro.
In this application replacing a Hydrolastic bush I'm concerned there may be some additional stress on the arm and mount as the range of motion with factory bushes is significant.

ADMIRAL
13th May 2015, 08:20 PM
To understand how they move - Look under your vehicle (from safely away from being squashed :angel: ) and ask someone to raise to full height and then lower to minimum and watch the fore and aft movement that the bush caters for...

These are the style of bush..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/957.jpg (http://s76.photobucket.com/user/Peterflux/media/540TouringRearSubFrameBush.jpg.html)

As you can see there is room for fore and aft plus some off axis movement.

The centre of the bush is usually filled with oil...

..and consider what that movement is doing to your wheel alignment. I think LR have built a lot of compliance in to cope with the loadings at different heights, but it does beg the question of how accurate the wheel alignment is with everything ducking and weaving like it does.

Tombie
13th May 2015, 11:24 PM
Actually if you film underneath under load they are always forward.... And the hydro bush is quite stable in normal use by design.

gotaflat
2nd June 2015, 03:25 PM
Afternoon,

Well after thinking I had a blown shock the LR dealer in Perth diagnosed the clunking at low speeds as worn out lower control arm bushes = need replacing (140,000kms). Good thread BTW.

So I got a quote to replace ...$1,600... is that right? I can re bush the John Deere header for about that. Anyway - any advice grateful (can it be done easily myself) or see if I can get someone else to do it?

Thanks

Marmoset
2nd June 2015, 05:27 PM
I ordered lower arms from the UK (Duckworths) and got a mobile mechanic to fit them (Dave Dover) and then took it for an alignment, worked out about $900 all in. This was about 18 months ago so exchange rate has moved against us slightly.

Whole arms are usually more cost effective due to labour time involved in putting new bushes in.

If your ball joints are okay and you have the tools to re-bush the arms yourself you could just order some new bushes and pop them in and go get an alignment - a much cheaper option.

Dagilmo
3rd June 2015, 09:02 PM
[QUOTE=gotaflat;2370754]

So I got a quote to replace ...$1,600... is that right? I can re bush the John Deere header for about that. Anyway - any advice grateful (can it be done easily myself) or see if I can get someone else to do it?
[y/QUOTE]

I need to do mine also. Was quoted $1650.00 for OEM D4 arms fitted and alignment included at local independent. He said He only fits D4 arms as they are upgraded and last much longer than D3 arms.

Having said that, I think I'm going to buy them and do them myself.

Cheers David

josh.huber
10th August 2015, 06:20 PM
Hey all,

My front lower rear bushes are shot, the rest are all fine, I've pulled all bolts ect today and inspected everything. Why does everyone replace arms?? The bushes are only 60 bucks? I rang a local supplier and asked if they could press them for me as I don't have a workshop job to access a press or a shed worth buying one for (5.5 x 5.5) wtf! and they said I'll need arms they always bend in the press.!! Wtf is wrong with the world I'm only a young bloke but Ive pressed thousands of things and never bent anything, has anyone heard of heat or a die grinder or setting up a press correctly. What is everyone else's opinion on the issue. I'm thinking about asking for all there old arms so I can bush and sell on eBay

it's always five o clock somewhere

Canaussie
10th August 2015, 07:18 PM
Not sure Josh?? I've just ordered arms as by all the reading I've done everyone says it's more economical labour wise. Now I've talked to an independent garage and he says I was silly to ordered the whole arms as well. I spoke to another independent and he said they generally are easier to just replace if they seize up and are hard to remove. So let's say 60 for bushings after market or genuine? How much labour to remove them and press in new ones?? Who knows right. I've got new arms with poly bushes, 3 hrs to pull out old ones and put in new ones plus wheel alignment. Not sure if there is or isn't an advantage, but we live in a throw away world. I guess at the end of the day I know my vehicle will only be at the garage for half a day max, I also know what my bill will be and won't be getting a call saying we can't get your bushes out and need to order new arms and that'll take two weeks but they've already cut the old ones out. Well then I'd be up the creek and since I live in a rural area my option was the easiest for me.

Hope this helps

Ean Austral
10th August 2015, 07:25 PM
Remember that with the new arms you also get a new ball joint. Add the cost of a new ball joint plus time and labour to remove and install.


I done a how to replace the arms a few years ago , its in the tutorial section.


Cheers Ean

DiscoDB
10th August 2015, 09:30 PM
Remember that with the new arms you also get a new ball joint. Add the cost of a new ball joint plus time and labour to remove and install.

....and the ball joints can be damaged when they remove the arms. So should be renewed when the bushes are done.

I kept my original control arms thinking I would refurbish, but on seeing how they roll and press the arms from sheet plate, I could imagine damaging them when pushing out/in new bushes. And yes the ball joint threaded section was damaged when they removed....

Next time around I will probably replace with new myself.

josh.huber
11th August 2015, 04:14 AM
I removed both sides last night to make sure that they would come apart took me a leisurely hour in and out and gave everything a fresh coat of copper. Bushes are 65 at all 4x4 in Newcastle. I'll have a go at the job and let you all know how I go. Your right it is a throw away world but seeing as though I'll do all my own labour I might not throw my wallet, with the right tooling the ball joints should never be damaged.

it's beer o clock

josh.huber
11th August 2015, 04:56 AM
Sorry, the bushes are non genuine rubber, I don't believe in poly and he said the non genuine seem to chew up no worse then the genuine bush

it's beer o clock

Nomad9
11th August 2015, 11:37 PM
Hi Ade,
I'm with you, I put "Polybush" bushes in my D3, purchased them from the UK at a price. Didn't like the change in ride and found that I got more road noise. Went back to the originals, poly bushes seemed like a good idea at the time. My experience........