Do you use ND filters?

[dullbird]

So if you do what do you find you use the most?

ND2, 4, 8 or higher...

Also what sort of shooting do you do with them.

I would like to Buy an ND filter but I haven't really decided which one to buy..eventually I will get a couple of varying density but at the moment I just want the one to have a play around with...

I'm looking for getting a bit of motion blur on water during the day and hopefully on some sea scapes (early morning late arvo)

So I was thinking probably the ND8


Like I said this is about having a play and seeing what I like so please no one tell me I need the Lee big stoper :D....not quite there yet and I dont think a lot of photographers are considering I see them up for sale second hand quite a lot hahahah


So what do you guys think?

[slug_burner]

With digital cameras with the ability to change the sensitivity of the detector there is less need for ND filters. I have a couple from when I used film where the ISO setting was determined by the roll of film.

[p38arover]

I haven't yet but was thinking about a variable ND and also a graduated ND to darken skies.

ND grad filters: what every photographer should know | Digital Camera World (http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2012/04/15/nd-grad-filters-what-every-photographer-should-know/)

[Rok_Dr]

I've often thought of getting an nd2 grad for landscapes on bright sunny days to reduce overexposure of the sky.

However a polariser filter improves things sufficiently that I've stuck with that and back at home I use Lightroom to tweek it a bit further.

Cheers

Steve

[plaven]

I use them quite a bit in my landscapes.

You can get them in graduated where the dark to light is graduated through the middle, hard edge good for sea/straight horizon and of course full.

I don't have a hard edged filter, just a few gradated in various strengths. Often behind them I'll put a full filter. I think the darkest, at ND6.

If you don't use some sort of balancing filter for sun rises/sets it's hard to balance out the brighter parts of the scene without resorting to bracketing and then further processing in something like photoshop (I use Gimp and for raw processing RawTherapee both open source).

I still use my Cokin P series filters as I didn't want to spend a lot of money on filters when trying them out. However I'm now considering spending a bit of money on high quality filters from formatt-hitech: https://www.formatt-hitech.com/ and get the larger 100mm filter holder.

Some of my images where I have used the filters:

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rTU1AGehHvQ/VJajiihqjXI/AAAAAAAAgfE/MHy4LrdHOlg/w1296-h865-no/WZ4A6353-1.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RMzZ-xtnfbo/VQOrWdnnIgI/AAAAAAAAiB8/ARXRvcU8LFU/w1157-h865-no/P3100068-1.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3NREMq1yatU/VGiJVMPQbeI/AAAAAAAAgR4/58er1W-Hugo/w1298-h865-no/WZ4A0697-5.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YJSEEA7xC7M/UTcRa5RlSYI/AAAAAAAAJ64/-JZ7hu_J7PY/w1298-h865-no/WZ4A1136.jpg

My suggestion is, if you can afford it, try it. Don't break your bank on your first set though. :)

i like them, it slows me down when I'm out taking photos.. always a good thing :)

[dullbird]

I have a set of graduated filters....

I was thinking more about bright days were the entire scene needs ot be stopped down to get blurr in motion rather than just the sky.

And i know that you can do all this in post process thats not really what im asking.

I want to be able to get a picture as good as I can in camera before hitting PP.

Besides you cant blurr water in post (well actually you can but that raises the question whetehr you stiff have a photograph or a purely designed image file)

[dullbird]

With digital cameras with the ability to change the sensitivity of the detector there is less need for ND filters. I have a couple from when I used film where the ISO setting was determined by the roll of film.


Unless i have totally missunderstood the concept of an ND filter i dont think what you have written here is correct (unless i have missunderstood what you have written as well).

The reason I say this is on a bright day your probably already going to be at ISO 100 thats the lowest you can go you dont want your ISO to be any higher because you simply wont be able to get your speed down enough to enable you to blur motion.

My understanding is you can place on a ND filter such as an 8 so when your in a situation like this you can stop your camera down another 3 stops on speed giving you more chance to get the shot your wanting to do.

Ideally though you wouldnt be taking shots in such bright conditions but sometimes you dont have the option of returning on a day with bett lighting.

Thats why im asking :)

[p38arover]

I see where you're coming from, Lou, and I can see that ND filters would be quite useful when one needs a long exposure but there's too much light. I assume that stopping down may not do what you want, either, depending on what you want in DOF.

[WhiteD3]

I use a Lee 4 stop 1.2ND-STD 4" x 4" for longer exposures and a 0.9 GND 4" x 6" for times when the sky is too bright. For star shots I use the GND upside down to darken the ground.

Sometimes I use both together if the light's a bit intense.

The ND is handy too in instances where you want to maintain a reasonably f/stop (say f11) and avoid stopping down.

[plaven]

ND filters are perfect for what you want. But give light varies so much and depending on the effect you're after, you'd want to have a selection of strengths.

Take a look at some of the big name brands and see what "packages" they have. You might be able to get a range of filters for a reasonable price

I just shopped around and bought the Ines I wanted as they were on special.

If you're thinking about them for your photography I'd say just do it. They really are an added tool for your images.

Avoid the screw in ones thatnarensold as variable. They really don't work well. Go with the square/rectangular ones that have a holder system. Cokin for cheap and cheerful, formatt-hitech, stingray, Lee (big $).

[dullbird]

Yes I have the Cokin Z Pro with the 3 graduated filters and pounch.

Got it all for $160 second hand but in immaculate condition so looking to add some full NDs to add to this flter system :)

[dmdigital]

You're correct Lou if you need to reduce the light for the shot that aperture, shutter speed, EV or ISO won't provide then an ND is it. You can do a lot in PP but as you said that's not the question.

My problem is often too much light so I need an ND if I want a decent aperture (say f/11) and a reasonable shutter speed. So for ND's, work out your needs and do some simple maths. Remembering they can be stacked (additively i.e. 2+4 = 6 stop) within reason.

In my situation I rarely use an ND2, but the 6 and 10 stop get used. The 10 can be fun to use. Also not all ND's are the same, some are not truly neutral and can give a colour cast.

[dullbird]

What do you use Derek B+W ?

Which do you use the most 6 or 10 do you think

[plaven]

Yes I have the Cokin Z Pro with the 3 graduated filters and pounch.

Got it all for $160 second hand but in immaculate condition so looking to add some full NDs to add to this flter system :)

Go the darker end of the spectrum. In my view, I don't use the lighter full ND's very often at all.

I nearly always stack my filters, the graduated is needed to balance the brighter half of the scenery.

[dmdigital]

What do you use Derek B+W ?

Which do you use the most 6 or 10 do you think
Yes B+W

I'd say I use my 10 more often but that's more the need to stop down to < 1sec exposures in full sun up here, travelling it is more the 6 as I usual take running water shots at 1/15 or less

[slug_burner]

Unless i have totally missunderstood the concept of an ND filter i dont think what you have written here is correct (unless i have missunderstood what you have written as well).

The reason I say this is on a bright day your probably already going to be at ISO 100 thats the lowest you can go you dont want your ISO to be any higher because you simply wont be able to get your speed down enough to enable you to blur motion.

My understanding is you can place on a ND filter such as an 8 so when your in a situation like this you can stop your camera down another 3 stops on speed giving you more chance to get the shot your wanting to do.

Ideally though you wouldnt be taking shots in such bright conditions but sometimes you dont have the option of returning on a day with bett lighting.

Thats why im asking :)

You're 100% correct. Obviously have not been near my ISO setting on my camera for a while. I was thinking that you could get down lower than 100 ASA.